Climbing Conditions - Other Popular Routes

View from Mt. Blum
View of Mt Baker and Shuksan from Mt. Blum. A.Brun
September 6, 2019
Mt. Blum
Conditions on the access trail are in standard conditions, with steep uphill hiking and many blowdowns across the approach trail. The approach trail is an un-maintained route that gains approximately 5000’ of elevation. Some bushwhacking and off trail navigation is required in order to locate the fisherman’s trail adjacent to Blum Creek. The trail is faint for the first ¼ to ½ mile, but once the trail starts climbing up the ridge it become more obvious with flagging marking the way in some places. At approximately 4500’ the trail becomes faint again and some navigation / bushwhacking is required in order to travel to the Blum Lakes area. Many blue berries and huckleberries are present along the approach route.
 
Upper Blum Lake
Upper Blum Lake as seen from Mt. Blum. A Brun.
If camping at Blum Lakes please use a previously impacted site (do not camp on vegetation) and no fires please! A bear was sighted at the lower Blum Lake, so please use a bear canister or UR sack to store your food. Additionally, please pack out any TP, as some TP was located at the lower Blum Lake. The SW ridge of Mt. Blum was in a good shape, no snow travel was required. Some loose rock is encountered on the climb to the ridge and a short step of exposed 3 rd class climbing is required to access the ridge. This is a beautiful, seldom used area of North Cascades National Park, please help us protect and conserve this wild area.
 
Sahale Glacier in September
Sahale Glacier as seen from the camp in September, almost all the snow is gone leaving exposed ice and open crevasses. K. Doering
September 1, 2019
Sahale Glacier
The route up to Sahale peak from the camp requires glacier travel, there are currently several crevasses opening up and very little snow. Traveling on steep ice requires mountaineering equipment such as ice axes, crampons and ropes. Please do not attempt to summit unless you have experience with mountaineering.
 
The jagged Picket Range
The Southern Pickets as seen from Terror Basin. K. Beckwith
July 24, 2019
Terror Basin Approach / Goodell Creek / Southern Pickets
Starting from Upper Goodell Group Camp the unmaintained old logging road / approach route is brushy and has a number of downed logs over the “trail”. The approach route up to Terror Basin is difficult to follow in a couple places due to braided footpaths. The approach to Terror Basin is snow free until just before the high col just before the drop down to the Terror Basin bivy sites. Coming down the col to the bivy sites involves some snow and some loose 3 rd class scrambling.
 
Approach to the Terror Basin Bivy sites
Approach to Terror Basin bivy sites. K. Beckwith
Water is plentiful in the basin. Please use blue bags and pack out human waste. Mice observed at bivy sites, please secure your food with a bear can or other Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee food storage device. There are a number of snow patches on the slabs on the approach to the West Ridge of W. McMillan.
 

About This Blog

Condition reports come from climbing rangers, wilderness rangers, and climbers visiting the park complex. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Photos are especially great

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Mt. Challenger & Whatcom Peak

August 26, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and beta from our recent patrol in the Northern Pickets.

 

Terror Basin 8-15-17

August 17, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and info from our recent trip to Terror Basin.

 

Black Peak

August 02, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Beta from our recent trip to Black Peak.

 

Crescent Creek Basin- Degenhardt Peak

July 28, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Information about our recent patrol into the Crescent Creek drainage.

 

Snowfield/Colonial Zone

July 28, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and information from our recent patrol to the Snowfield/Colonial zone.

 

Depot Creek- Mt. Redoubt

July 24, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and information from our recent patrol to Depot Creek and the Redoubt/Spickard area.

 

First round of fall snow in NCNP!

September 05, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

The seasons are changing and so are conditions!

 

Mt. Goode- 8/21-24 2016

August 25, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions update from our recent climbing patrol on the NE Buttress of Goode.

 

Black Peak- 8/3/16

August 07, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions from our patrol in the eastern portion of the Park, on Black Peak.

 

Photos of peaks in the Southern Half of NCNP

July 29, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos of various peaks including: North Face of Buckner, Inspiration-Klawatti, and the Marble Creek Cirque.

 

Mt. Triumph- NE Ridge 7/24/16

July 29, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Conditions and info from our recent patrol of the NE Ridge of Triumph.

 

Mt. Blum- North Glacier- July 12, 2016

July 14, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Conditions for the Blum Lakes approach and our ascent of the North Glacier on Mount Blum.

 

Ruth-Icy Traverse: June 27/28, 2016

July 02, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions report from our recent traverse of Mount Ruth and Icy Peak. Includes a photo of the North side of Shuksan.

 

Colonial Peak- June 30, 2016

July 02, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Conditions and photos from our recent patrol to the Colonial/Snowfield area.

 

Colonial Cross Country Zone

August 14, 2015 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Approach to Colonial, Pyramid, Snowfield

 

Mt Triumph Conditions Sept 14, 2014

September 21, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

No running water at the col bivi sites, but snow available for melting. The approach to the route and the route itself are in good condition, crampons useful for approach. All raps are doable with a 60m rope and the anchors were in faily good condition.

 

Last updated: September 14, 2019

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