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E. Reed/NPS NE Buttress Mt. Goode The approach to the NE Buttress of Mt. Goode is in great shape. The trail is clear until the last mile of the North Fork trail, which has some areas of heavy brush. The North Fork Bridge Creek crossing is about mid calf deep and straightforward. The approach requires unprotected scrambling up 3rd and 4th class slabs to the “Alder Tunnel,” an easier-than-it-looks bushwhack up through an Alder grove. The Goode Glacier is in good shape and currently fairly simple to enter and navigate. The moat between the glacier and the rock (near the “Red Ledges”) involves about 10’ of downclimbing into the moat. This feature will likely melt out soon and create a more challenging problem to negotiate. The NE Buttress itself is in great shape. We found one snow patch on the route at around 8,500ft (near a small bivy site). We found no other snow on the route. The summit was snow free. Plan accordingly if you are planning to camp on the summit. The rappells to the Black Tooth Notch and into the Southwest Couloir are in good shape, but please remember to FULLY inspect all rappel stations yourself before committing! There is a large snow patch in the SW couloir that provides some water. A few reminders: This area is in the Goode Cross Country zone and a permit is required for overnight camping. If you plan to camp on the route or the summit, please use blue bags to pack out all solid human waste. 
W. Tarantino/NPS Colonial and Snowfield Area Climbing Conditions The approach to the Colonial and Snowfield Cross Country Zones and the Colonial and Neve Glaciers are still in early season conditions. The climbers route begins by going around the west side of Pyramid Lake (no camping allowed at the lake!) before beginning to climb steeply up to the ridge separating Colonial and Pyramid Creeks. The trail is in standard condition and easy to follow up to the ridge. Expect to encounter snow soon after gaining the ridge (~4500ft), and becomes consistent after ascending the second of three steps up the ridge (~5000ft). The upper Colonial and Neve glaciers have ample snow coverage and currently present few navigational challenges. 
W. Tarantino/NPS 
E.Reed/NPS June 12, 2020 
Mt. Blum Conditions on the access trail are in standard conditions, with steep uphill hiking and many blowdowns across the approach trail. The approach trail is an un-maintained route that gains approximately 5000’ of elevation. Some bushwhacking and off trail navigation is required in order to locate the fisherman’s trail adjacent to Blum Creek. The trail is faint for the first ¼ to ½ mile, but once the trail starts climbing up the ridge it become more obvious with flagging marking the way in some places. At approximately 4500’ the trail becomes faint again and some navigation / bushwhacking is required in order to travel to the Blum Lakes area. Many blue berries and huckleberries are present along the approach route. 
Sahale Glacier The route up to Sahale peak from the camp requires glacier travel, there are currently several crevasses opening up and very little snow. Traveling on steep ice requires mountaineering equipment such as ice axes, crampons and ropes. Please do not attempt to summit unless you have experience with mountaineering. 
Terror Basin Approach / Goodell Creek / Southern Pickets Starting from Upper Goodell Group Camp the unmaintained old logging road / approach route is brushy and has a number of downed logs over the “trail”. The approach route up to Terror Basin is difficult to follow in a couple places due to braided footpaths. The approach to Terror Basin is snow free until just before the high col just before the drop down to the Terror Basin bivy sites. Coming down the col to the bivy sites involves some snow and some loose 3 rd class scrambling. 
About This BlogCondition reports come from climbing rangers, wilderness rangers, and climbers visiting the park complex. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Photos are especially great All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun. Mt. Challenger & Whatcom Peak
August 26, 2017
Photos and beta from our recent patrol in the Northern Pickets. Crescent Creek Basin- Degenhardt Peak
July 28, 2017
Information about our recent patrol into the Crescent Creek drainage. Snowfield/Colonial Zone
July 28, 2017
Photos and information from our recent patrol to the Snowfield/Colonial zone. Depot Creek- Mt. Redoubt
July 24, 2017
Photos and information from our recent patrol to Depot Creek and the Redoubt/Spickard area. First round of fall snow in NCNP!
September 05, 2016
The seasons are changing and so are conditions! Mt. Goode- 8/21-24 2016
August 25, 2016
Photos and conditions update from our recent climbing patrol on the NE Buttress of Goode. Black Peak- 8/3/16
August 07, 2016
Photos and conditions from our patrol in the eastern portion of the Park, on Black Peak. Photos of peaks in the Southern Half of NCNP
July 29, 2016
Photos of various peaks including: North Face of Buckner, Inspiration-Klawatti, and the Marble Creek Cirque. Mt. Triumph- NE Ridge 7/24/16
July 29, 2016
Conditions and info from our recent patrol of the NE Ridge of Triumph. Mt. Blum- North Glacier- July 12, 2016
July 14, 2016
Conditions for the Blum Lakes approach and our ascent of the North Glacier on Mount Blum. Ruth-Icy Traverse: June 27/28, 2016
July 02, 2016
Photos and conditions report from our recent traverse of Mount Ruth and Icy Peak. Includes a photo of the North side of Shuksan. Colonial Peak- June 30, 2016
July 02, 2016
Conditions and photos from our recent patrol to the Colonial/Snowfield area. Mt Triumph Conditions Sept 14, 2014
September 21, 2014
No running water at the col bivi sites, but snow available for melting. The approach to the route and the route itself are in good condition, crampons useful for approach. All raps are doable with a 60m rope and the anchors were in faily good condition. |
Last updated: August 6, 2020
