Climbing Conditions - Other Popular Routes

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The NorthEast Face of Mt. Goode rises above the North Fork of Bridge Creek
Mt. Goode rises above the North Fork of Bridge Creek.

E. Reed/NPS

August 4th, 2020
NE Buttress Mt. Goode

The approach to the NE Buttress of Mt. Goode is in great shape. The trail is clear until the last mile of the North Fork trail, which has some areas of heavy brush. The North Fork Bridge Creek crossing is about mid calf deep and straightforward. The approach requires unprotected scrambling up 3rd and 4th class slabs to the “Alder Tunnel,” an easier-than-it-looks bushwhack up through an Alder grove.

The Goode Glacier is in good shape and currently fairly simple to enter and navigate. The moat between the glacier and the rock (near the “Red Ledges”) involves about 10’ of downclimbing into the moat. This feature will likely melt out soon and create a more challenging problem to negotiate.

The NE Buttress itself is in great shape. We found one snow patch on the route at around 8,500ft (near a small bivy site). We found no other snow on the route. The summit was snow free. Plan accordingly if you are planning to camp on the summit.

The rappells to the Black Tooth Notch and into the Southwest Couloir are in good shape, but please remember to FULLY inspect all rappel stations yourself before committing! There is a large snow patch in the SW couloir that provides some water.

A few reminders: This area is in the Goode Cross Country zone and a permit is required for overnight camping. If you plan to camp on the route or the summit, please use blue bags to pack out all solid human waste.
 
 
A North Cascades National Park Ranger ascends to the Colonial/Neve Col from the Neve Glacier
A North Cascades National Park Ranger ascends to the Colonial/Neve Col from the Neve Glacier

W. Tarantino/NPS

June 20, 2020
Colonial and Snowfield Area Climbing Conditions
The approach to the Colonial and Snowfield Cross Country Zones and the Colonial and Neve Glaciers are still in early season conditions. The climbers route begins by going around the west side of Pyramid Lake (no camping allowed at the lake!) before beginning to climb steeply up to the ridge separating Colonial and Pyramid Creeks. The trail is in standard condition and easy to follow up to the ridge. Expect to encounter snow soon after gaining the ridge (~4500ft), and becomes consistent after ascending the second of three steps up the ridge (~5000ft). The upper Colonial and Neve glaciers have ample snow coverage and currently present few navigational challenges.
 
Paul Bunyan's Stump, Pinnacle Peak and Pyramid Peak tower over the Colonial Glacier from the Colonial/Neve Col
Paul Bunyan's Stump, Pinnacle Peak and Pyramid Peak tower over the Colonial Glacier and a ranger descending from the Colonial/Neve Col

W. Tarantino/NPS

Take caution that the North Cascades alpine is still undergoing a melt-freeze cycle during this time, and conditions have yet to stabilize, expect deep unconsolidated snow and challenging walking conditions until there is another hard freeze or the late-season snow melts out. Small wet slab avalanches and large cornice collapses were also noted throughout the area. Most common times for natural avalanches this time of year are during sunny afternoons/evenings or periods of warm rainy weather. The bivy sites on the Colonial Glacier moraine and the Colonial/Neve col have melted out. Please remember to bring enough blue bags to carry out solid human waste above tree line!
 
Snowy mountain peaks with evergreen trees in the foreground
Colonial peak from the ridge above Pyramid Lake

E.Reed/NPS

June 12, 2020
Colonial, Pyramid, Pinnacle, Paul Bunyan
The trail to Pyramid Lake is clear of major obstacles and snow free. From Pyramid Lake the Colonial Area climbers trail begins and snow patches start around 4,200 ft in elevation. Continuing in elevation consistent snow starts at 4,600 ft. Once the snow starts it can be challenging to find the trail.

 
View from Mt. Blum
View of Mt Baker and Shuksan from Mt. Blum. A.Brun
September 6, 2019
Mt. Blum
Conditions on the access trail are in standard conditions, with steep uphill hiking and many blowdowns across the approach trail. The approach trail is an un-maintained route that gains approximately 5000’ of elevation. Some bushwhacking and off trail navigation is required in order to locate the fisherman’s trail adjacent to Blum Creek. The trail is faint for the first ¼ to ½ mile, but once the trail starts climbing up the ridge it become more obvious with flagging marking the way in some places. At approximately 4500’ the trail becomes faint again and some navigation / bushwhacking is required in order to travel to the Blum Lakes area. Many blue berries and huckleberries are present along the approach route.
 
Upper Blum Lake
Upper Blum Lake as seen from Mt. Blum. A Brun.
If camping at Blum Lakes please use a previously impacted site (do not camp on vegetation) and no fires please! A bear was sighted at the lower Blum Lake, so please use a bear canister or UR sack to store your food. Additionally, please pack out any TP, as some TP was located at the lower Blum Lake. The SW ridge of Mt. Blum was in a good shape, no snow travel was required. Some loose rock is encountered on the climb to the ridge and a short step of exposed 3 rd class climbing is required to access the ridge. This is a beautiful, seldom used area of North Cascades National Park, please help us protect and conserve this wild area.
 
Sahale Glacier in September
Sahale Glacier as seen from the camp in September, almost all the snow is gone leaving exposed ice and open crevasses. K. Doering
September 1, 2019
Sahale Glacier
The route up to Sahale peak from the camp requires glacier travel, there are currently several crevasses opening up and very little snow. Traveling on steep ice requires mountaineering equipment such as ice axes, crampons and ropes. Please do not attempt to summit unless you have experience with mountaineering.
 
The jagged Picket Range
The Southern Pickets as seen from Terror Basin. K. Beckwith
July 24, 2019
Terror Basin Approach / Goodell Creek / Southern Pickets
Starting from Upper Goodell Group Camp the unmaintained old logging road / approach route is brushy and has a number of downed logs over the “trail”. The approach route up to Terror Basin is difficult to follow in a couple places due to braided footpaths. The approach to Terror Basin is snow free until just before the high col just before the drop down to the Terror Basin bivy sites. Coming down the col to the bivy sites involves some snow and some loose 3 rd class scrambling.
 
Approach to the Terror Basin Bivy sites
Approach to Terror Basin bivy sites. K. Beckwith
Water is plentiful in the basin. Please use blue bags and pack out human waste. Mice observed at bivy sites, please secure your food with a bear can or other Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee food storage device. There are a number of snow patches on the slabs on the approach to the West Ridge of W. McMillan.
 

About This Blog

Condition reports come from climbing rangers, wilderness rangers, and climbers visiting the park complex. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Photos are especially great

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Mt. Challenger & Whatcom Peak

August 26, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and beta from our recent patrol in the Northern Pickets.

 

Terror Basin 8-15-17

August 17, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and info from our recent trip to Terror Basin.

 

Black Peak

August 02, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Beta from our recent trip to Black Peak.

 

Crescent Creek Basin- Degenhardt Peak

July 28, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Information about our recent patrol into the Crescent Creek drainage.

 

Snowfield/Colonial Zone

July 28, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and information from our recent patrol to the Snowfield/Colonial zone.

 

Depot Creek- Mt. Redoubt

July 24, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and information from our recent patrol to Depot Creek and the Redoubt/Spickard area.

 

First round of fall snow in NCNP!

September 05, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

The seasons are changing and so are conditions!

 

Mt. Goode- 8/21-24 2016

August 25, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions update from our recent climbing patrol on the NE Buttress of Goode.

 

Black Peak- 8/3/16

August 07, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions from our patrol in the eastern portion of the Park, on Black Peak.

 

Photos of peaks in the Southern Half of NCNP

July 29, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos of various peaks including: North Face of Buckner, Inspiration-Klawatti, and the Marble Creek Cirque.

 

Mt. Triumph- NE Ridge 7/24/16

July 29, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Conditions and info from our recent patrol of the NE Ridge of Triumph.

 

Mt. Blum- North Glacier- July 12, 2016

July 14, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Conditions for the Blum Lakes approach and our ascent of the North Glacier on Mount Blum.

 

Ruth-Icy Traverse: June 27/28, 2016

July 02, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions report from our recent traverse of Mount Ruth and Icy Peak. Includes a photo of the North side of Shuksan.

 

Colonial Peak- June 30, 2016

July 02, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Conditions and photos from our recent patrol to the Colonial/Snowfield area.

 

Colonial Cross Country Zone

August 14, 2015 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Approach to Colonial, Pyramid, Snowfield

 

Mt Triumph Conditions Sept 14, 2014

September 21, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

No running water at the col bivi sites, but snow available for melting. The approach to the route and the route itself are in good condition, crampons useful for approach. All raps are doable with a 60m rope and the anchors were in faily good condition.

 

Last updated: August 6, 2020

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