Climbing Conditions - Eldorado Area

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A note on climbing conditions...

Reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers.To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

 

East Ridge of Eldorado at ~8200ft, large continuous crevasses opening

J.Shields/NPS

August 1, 2021
Eldorado - East Ridge
The North Fork Cascade River crossing to Eldorado’s climbing trail is challenging if there is recent rain. The logs used for crossing can have water washing over them and the river can increase in flow/size for fording.
Large continuous crevasses are growing on the east ridge route up Eldorado, pushing the route onto the rocks at approximately 8200ft. From here, the route either goes directly up to the summit staying on the rocks or diverts back onto the glacier at approximately 8500ft. Some parties reported staying on the climbers’ left side rocks for almost the entire ascent. The upper summit ridge is rounding out with large bucket steps. As a reminder, both the approach and east ridge route does involve travelling on glacier - make sure to use proper glacier equipment and travelling techniques.
The toilet on the east ridge is still useable and located just below the bivy sites on the east ridge. There is running water at the bivy sites on the way to the toilet but it can be muddied by people walking above.

 

Current Conditions of the Eldorado, Inspiration and Klawatti XC Zones from Forbidden Peak.

B.Ducay/NPS

July 21, 2021
Eldorado Conditions
To cross the river and reach Eldorado's climbing trail from the parking area, you can either piece together downed trees downstream from the culvert or ford the water where convenient. Once on the trail, head past the kiosk, try to stay on the trail through a section of downed trees and avoid anything that does not look well used. The rest of the trail is in good condition. Snow line begins at approximately 6,000 feet but is not continuous until you reach the far side of Hammered Ridge. Snow conditions up high on the plateau are typical for this time of year.

Crevasses are growing on the east ridge route up Eldorado, but a solid path remains. The upper summit ridge is relatively wide with secure footing. The North Ridge of Eldorado can provide a fun alternative route to the summit consisting of lower 5^th class terrain on good rock.

The east ridge bivy sites are melted out and the toilet is ready for use. If you are permitted for the Inspiration XC zone, please continue to that area as the east ridge bivies are only for those with a permit for the Eldorado XC Zone.

 

June 28, 2021
Eldorado Approach
Multiple parties have been turned back in the last two days by the immediate crossing of North Fork Cascade River, which is flowing very high and strong. Remember that any watercourse will flow more strongly later in the day, especially during these hot temperatures.

 

A North Cascades Ranger wallows up a short section of soft snow on Eldorado

A.Brun/NPS

June 22, 2021
Eldorado Conditions
Unfortunately, the Cascade River Road remains closed at the park boundary. A section of the road was destroyed this winter but is currently undergoing maintenance. Expect to park at the gate and walk an extra 2 miles up road to the Eldorado Trailhead. Once at the road washout, look for some large tree trunks cabled together. Currently, this is the easiest place to cross the river. Once across the main section of the river, continue on a faint trail to find another downed log to cross a smaller braid of the river. This should lead you to the main climber’s trail. Large sections of avalanche debris can obstruct the trail at times but there are worn paths that lead though if you are attentive. Further up, snow is scattered throughout the boulder field and becomes continuous at approximately 5000ft. Beware of fragile snow bridges and moats through this area.

There is still a lot of snow up high and unseasonably warm temperatures have made for difficult and potentially dangerous travel conditions. Loose snow avalanches were noted on numerous aspects and are common on warm afternoons when the snow loses cohesion. A red flag for loose snow avalanche potential includes boot penetration into the snow under body weight. This is exactly what we experienced with continuous post-holing and slow travel.

Eldorado East Ridge Camp (7600ft) still has plenty of snow but bivy sites are melting out fast. The backcountry toilet located in the lower rock section has been uncovered for use this season. Please bring blue bags to carry out human waste any time you’re above treeline in the case that you cannot reach the toilet in time.

 

Climbers traveling across Inspiration Glacier to the east ridge high camp.  Photo W.Hsieh

September 13, 2020
Eldorado Conditions
Eldorado glacier remains mellow, but care should be taken at the lower part where climbers need to cross thin snow bridges and slippery rocks. Many crevasses are opening on the flat area of Inspiration glacier before reaching the high camp. Large moats are present along the east ridge and crevasses are easy to spot. Climbers could opt to descend on rock with easy scrambling (class 3 or 4) almost all the way back to camp. There are spots with small moats where climbers can transition back to snow to avoid a section of steep loose rock. The high camp is clean, and the composting toilet is in good shape – please help us maintain a clean camp and pack everything out! Running water from snow melt is available at the high camp below bivy sites.

 

A ranger climbs Eldorado's knife edge. Photo W.Tarantino/NPS

August 9, 2020
ElDorado Conditions
The Eldorado approach trail is melted out to Eldorado Creek Basin, with only patches of snow until it crosses over into Roush Creek Basin at the base of the Eldorado Glacier. The Eldorado Glacier is still very mellow up to the bivy sites, but a few moats are forming in the rocks down low and a couple small cracks are beginning to open up in the flats. The East Ridge route is in great shape with only one easy bergschrund problem and a bomber boot-pack all the way up the knife ridge.

The Eldorado area is becoming very popular and this route has been getting A LOT of use. Remember that all parties camping within the National Park need a backcountry permit! Eldorado Cross-Country Zone permits are the only valid permit for the bivy sites at the East Ridge. The toilet at the bivy site is in good shape, but be prepared with blue bags in case you need to pack it out. Bears are entering the high country and the mice are hungry, please bring an approved food storage container!

 

Klawatti Peak rises above the well-named Inspiration Glacier, photo taken from the North side of Eldorado Peak

W. Tarantino/NPS

June 24, 2020
Eldorado and Klawatti Icecap Conditions
Like the North Cascades alpine terrain in general, Eldorado and the Klawatti Icecap region are still in early season conditions. The Cascade River log crossing at the start of the Eldorado approach, is the first challenge climbers face when attempting to access this area. The river and its braids are swollen with water from snowmelt and recent rains, so fording is not recommended. There is a large, crossable log-jam downstream of the parking area, 20-30 meters past the culvert, look for the small cairn marking the use-path. Once across these initial logs follow a faint path upstream to a second log crossing and follow the now well-worn path further upstream to the old approach trail and sign. The trail is in standard condition and easy to follow up to the boulder field. Snow is currently encountered about 2/3s of the way up the boulder field (~5000ft), and becomes consistent as the trail traverses East out of the boulders (~5400ft). Use caution negotiating weakening snow-bridges over the creeks in this area. The upper mountain glaciers have ample snow coverage, with few noticeable crevasses outside of the lower icefall areas. Take caution that the North Cascades alpine is still undergoing a melt-freeze cycle during this time, and conditions have yet to stabilize, expect deep unconsolidated snow and challenging walking conditions until there is another hard freeze or the late-season snow melts out.

 

Eldorado Peak, viewed from the summit of Dorado Needle.

W. Tarantino/NPS

Small wet slab and large point release avalanches were also noted on the steeper slopes throughout the area, including many small human-triggered releases. Most common times for natural wet avalanches are during sunny afternoons/evenings or periods of warm rainy weather. Eldorado high camp (7600ft) still has deep snow in places, but a few bivy sites have melted out and the backcountry toilet has been dug out and is available for use. Whether staying at the East Ridge bivy sites or not, make sure to bring blue bags to carry out human waste above tree line!

 

August 25, 2019
Eldorado Conditions
The approach route is in normal condition. Look for the cairn on Cascade River Road for the most manageable creek crossing. Cross the creek on downed logs. Parties have reported bear sightings close to the boulder field. Please refrain from camping in Eldorado Basin and Hammered Ridge to preserve alpine vegetation. Follow cairns to drop into Roush Creek Basinand up to the toe of the Eldorado glacier. The lower Eldorado glacier is becoming more crevassed and is currently in its late season stage. Parties have been roping up for the approach to the East ridge bivy sites. At the East ridge bivy sites please store food properly as there have been increased rodent issues. The composting toilet is in great shape.

 

July 10, 2019
Eldorado / Inspiration Glacier / Austera Peak / Klawatti Glacier
Approach to Eldorado is in standard condition with patchy snow starting just below the ridge between Eldorado Creek and Rouse Creek Basins. Toilet at Eldorado is in good working condition. Please only TP and feces in the toilet. Many parties are going up the Eldorado glacier and East Ridge of Eldorado without any issues. Traversing the Klawatti Glacier and Inspiration Glacier to Austera Peak is in more or less typical condition for this time of year.

 

June 15, 2019
Starting from El Dorado trailhead, river can be forded about 15-20 feet from original log crossing. Use caution while fording! Crossing might be safer than "log jam" crossing down river. Ford is below knee height.

The toilet at the bivy site is melted out, please do not put trash in composting toilet.

 

Ridge between El Dorado and Boston Basin in early September.
D Veenhuizen

From June 1 to November 15, Interagency Grizzly Bear Commitee approved food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin , El Dorado , and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones.

For old climbing conditions blog posts, check out the links below.

	Eldorado Creek Approach April 26, 2014
	Eldorado June 22 2014
	Eldorado Conditions July 6, 2014
	Eldorado Conditions July 22nd, 2014
	Eldorado Conditions Sept. 6, 2014
	Eldorado Conditions May 25, 2015
	Eldorado Conditions October 5, 2015
	Eldorado Approach Conditions- May 29, 2016
	Conditions- 7/17/16
	East Ridge- 9/16/16
2017	Dorado Needle-NW Ridge
	Sibley-Eldorado-Boston Basin Traverse
	Early Morning Spire