Climbing Conditions - Eldorado Area

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Climbers on the narrow snow crest of Eldorado summit. NPS/Erin McKay
Climbers on the narrow snow crest of Eldorado summit. NPS/Erin McKay

Climbing conditions for Eldorado Peak and some surrounding peaks can be found below. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers.To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Early Morning Spire

September 14, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and info from our recent patrol to Early Morning Spire

 

Sibley-Eldorado-Boston Basin Traverse

September 08, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and beta from our recent traverse from Sibley Pass to Boston Basin.

 

Dorado Needle-NW Ridge

July 09, 2017 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and beta from our recent patrol of Eldorado Peak and Dorado Needle.

 

East Ridge- 9/16/16

September 18, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Photos and conditions report from our ascent of Eldorado.

 

Conditions- 7/17/16

July 22, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Updates and photos from Eldorado.

 

Eldorado Approach Conditions- May 29, 2016

May 30, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Some photos and description of our recent trip into Eldorado Basin.

 

Eldorado Conditions October 5, 2015

October 07, 2015 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Glacier is very crevassed on approach to East Ridge bivi sites. Crevasses on East Ridge can be avoided via rock on climbers left. Summit snow arete is very narrow. Toilet open for use again!

 

Eldorado Conditions May 25, 2015

May 26, 2015 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Snow line at about 5,000ft on approach, solid snow from Eldorado basin on. East Ridge route in good shape, snow arete is narrow and steep on both sides, but not corniced.

 

Eldorado Conditions Sept. 6, 2014

September 08, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Eldorado/Inspiration area approaching late season conditions; approach route is snow free until about 600' below Eldorado Glacier, many bivi sites melted out at base of East Ridge. Some crevasses open on East Ridge, but route is still being regularly ascended. Crevasses open on Inspiration Glacier, but glacier is still negotiable.

 

Eldorado Conditions July 22nd, 2014

July 29, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Snow line on the approach route is around 5,500; just as Eldorado Basin is reached. Crevasses showing on Inspiration and Eldorado Glaciers. East Ridge Forbidden in beginning to get crevassed, but crevasses and moats can be avoided by scrambling on rocks on the edge of the ridge. Several bivi sites melted out at the East Ridge sites, as well as the composting toilet.

 

Eldorado Conditions July 6, 2014

July 11, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Snow line is about 5,200ft. Several bivi sites melted out at base of East Ridge, composting toilet open and available for use. Summit arete in good early season condition, with good steps kicked in. Crevasses beginning to open up on the Inspiration Glacier.

 

Eldorado June 22 2014

June 26, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Snow line on the approach is at about 4,800; near the top of the second boulder field. East ridge bivi sites are melted out, as well as the composting toilet. Summit arete is in good early season condition.

 

Eldorado Approach Conditions June 12, 2014

June 16, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

As per visitor report: snow line is around 5,100 ft. on approach route.

 

Eldorado Creek Approach April 26, 2014

April 27, 2014 Posted by: Climbing Ranger

Cascade River Road drivable to Milepost 19. Approach route snow free until about 3,600. Expect solid snow from about the first boulder field on. Snow and early season conditions above 4,000 ft.

 

Last updated: August 4, 2013

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