September 14, 2017
Photos and info from our recent patrol to Early Morning Spire
September 08, 2017
Photos and beta from our recent traverse from Sibley Pass to Boston Basin.
July 09, 2017
Photos and beta from our recent patrol of Eldorado Peak and Dorado Needle.
September 18, 2016
Photos and conditions report from our ascent of Eldorado.
July 22, 2016
Updates and photos from Eldorado.
May 30, 2016
Some photos and description of our recent trip into Eldorado Basin.
October 07, 2015
Glacier is very crevassed on approach to East Ridge bivi sites. Crevasses on East Ridge can be avoided via rock on climbers left. Summit snow arete is very narrow. Toilet open for use again!
May 26, 2015
Snow line at about 5,000ft on approach, solid snow from Eldorado basin on. East Ridge route in good shape, snow arete is narrow and steep on both sides, but not corniced.
September 08, 2014
Eldorado/Inspiration area approaching late season conditions; approach route is snow free until about 600' below Eldorado Glacier, many bivi sites melted out at base of East Ridge. Some crevasses open on East Ridge, but route is still being regularly ascended. Crevasses open on Inspiration Glacier, but glacier is still negotiable.
July 29, 2014
Snow line on the approach route is around 5,500; just as Eldorado Basin is reached. Crevasses showing on Inspiration and Eldorado Glaciers. East Ridge Forbidden in beginning to get crevassed, but crevasses and moats can be avoided by scrambling on rocks on the edge of the ridge. Several bivi sites melted out at the East Ridge sites, as well as the composting toilet.
July 11, 2014
Snow line is about 5,200ft. Several bivi sites melted out at base of East Ridge, composting toilet open and available for use. Summit arete in good early season condition, with good steps kicked in. Crevasses beginning to open up on the Inspiration Glacier.
June 26, 2014
Snow line on the approach is at about 4,800; near the top of the second boulder field. East ridge bivi sites are melted out, as well as the composting toilet. Summit arete is in good early season condition.
June 16, 2014
As per visitor report: snow line is around 5,100 ft. on approach route.
April 27, 2014
Cascade River Road drivable to Milepost 19. Approach route snow free until about 3,600. Expect solid snow from about the first boulder field on. Snow and early season conditions above 4,000 ft.