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NPS/J.Shields Boston Basin Conditions in Boston Basin are transitioning from summer to fall, with foliage changing color, cool morning temperatures, and shorter days. There is little snow left below the Cat Scratch Gulley, or below the Quien Sabe Glacier, so expect longer rock slab approaches. The slabs below the Cat Scratch Gulley is threatened by serac chunks sliding and falling from the bottom of the remnant glacier that lies beneath the South Face of Forbidden. We urge people to watch weather forecasts closely, and remember that bears are fattening up for the upcoming winter, consuming all the calories they can find. Make sure to properly store your food - do not leave food or smellable items unattended. And make noise on the trail as bears are distracted and might not notice you approaching. 
8/18/22 Boston Basin A few different bears are regulars in the Basin, often seen enjoying the berries and generally avoiding people. We remind and urge people to keep clean camps, store all food and scented items properly, and make noise while traveling to avoid habituation or incidents with bears or other wildlife. Some teams have also seen goats in the bivy sites, but they seem to come in and out of the area and there have not been issues at this time 
NPS/J.Shields Boston Basin: Even with the current closure on Cascade River Road, the basin is busy. Most parties are camping at the higher bivy site and going for the West Ridge of Forbidden. Several upper bivy sites are now snow-free and both the upper & lower bivy toilets are useable. Please do not put any food or trash into the toilets as this negatively affects the composting process. On the approach, several parties found the crossing of Boston Creek difficult as temperatures increase, especially in the afternoon. Optional crossings can be found higher up the creek. Forbidden: Cat Scratch Gully is now the preferred approach for this climb, however there is still some snow travel left at the base that some parties found challenging. As a reminder, Cat Scratch Gully has a lot of loose rock and rock-fall potential is high with multiple parties travelling through it. We strongly recommend parties to rope up this section. The West Ridge itself is completely snow free. 
NPS/J.Shields Sharkfin: Snow still exists in Sharkfin gully with a high potential of rock-fall as the gully warms up throughout the day. A large moat at the entrance of the gully still poses as a challenge for climbers. The route itself on Sharkfin is completely snow free. 
NPS/T. Denison The switch got flipped to "summertime" and Boston Basin is in rapid transition. The initial crossing of Boston Creek when entering the basin can be done without getting wet with some rock-hopping. The toilets at both bivy areas are melted out and usable. The lower bivies have many snow-free sites while the upper area has only one site with room for a 2-person tent. A large billy goat has been hanging around the lower area - try to pee away from campsites so as not to lure it into camp. The approach to W Ridge of Forbidden is presenting mid-season challenges. The snow couloir is fully transected by a crack requiring lowering in and climbing out on reported 5.8 movement to regain the snow above - most parties are now opting for Catscratch Gully. There is still a snowfield present where the Gully and Couloir join eachother, which some parties are protecting with pickets on ascent and rappeling on descent - it's worth bringing boots and ice axes up to the W Ridge notch for this snowfield. The Quien Sabe route up Sahale is in fine shape, with the bergschrund easily bypassed on the right side. 
NPS/ K.Vollinger Boston Basin: Snow started just before tree-line on the climbers' trail. The main creek crossing to the lower bivy has melted out, expect to get your feet wet. There is a snow crossing further up but it will not last much longer. Listen for rushing water under the snow before walking across it and give holes in the snow above rushing water a wide berth. There are camp spots on rock melting out at the lower bivy. The toilet at the lower bivy is melted out and open. The upper bivy is under snow currently and the toilet is still completely buried. Sharkfin: The morning rangers went to climb sharkfin the couloir to access it had looked like solid snow from a distance . The bottom turned out to be mostly unsupported blocks that later collapsed that day when they baked in the sun. This makes the access via the couloir more hazardous and potentially not feasible until the larger blocks meltout. The rangers climbed a low angle crack system with an established rap line instead about 50 ft left of the couloir. The most difficult part was stepping across the moat starting to form at the bottom. Movement was probably about 5.5-5.6. The actual route of sharkfin was mostly clear of snow but for a couple of patches on the ledges on the north side on the last pitch. One can avoid pulling out their ice gear or cutting steps, but it wont be the easier ledge walking you usually expect this time of year. 
NPS/K.Vollinger Forbidden: The access couloir to the west ridge is becoming more difficult with a bergschrund forming above the central rock outcropping at the bottom. Some reported getting on the rock to navigate around it. Conditions are changing rapidly however and expect this moat to rapidly grow. The cat scratch gulley is not melted out and sounds like it might be an exposed snow fin to get to the top of and folks are rapping the couloir late in the day. New anchors and old anchors are being used and not all are reliable in this very dynamic environment. There are only a few patches of snow left on the West ridge and you can easily climb around them so it is reasonable to leave your snow gear at the notch. Sahale: The Quien sabe glacier is looking like it is in excellent condition, though you can see troughs forming and opening where the highway of tracks went. Just because someone crossed a bridge before you does not mean it is good for you to cross now. There is exposed rock on the shoulder and at the summit. So you may need rock gear and to rappel what you climbed up. 
NPS/J.Shields Boston Basin For those looking to go to Boston Basin, plan for extra time to get to the trailhead as the gate is closed at the Eldorado Climbers Trailhead. This adds just over 2 miles of road walking to access the climber's route. Roadwork and repairs are underway, but there is no estimate of when the road will open past Eldorado at this point. The climbers route to Boston Basin is snow-free until about 4300’, where more continuous snow fully obscures the trail. Off trail navigation skills are necessary for getting to the camps. Below treeline there is still 2-3 feet of snow, while above treeline there is much more snow remaining. 
NPS/J.Shields June 5, 2022 Keep in mind that “above average snowpack” can be misleading if just looking at a percentage. Thunder basin snotel site, for example, is well above average for this date (currently 1500%), and the site currently has 20” of snow on the ground. Easy Pass is also above average at 130% snowpack but is recording 130” or over 10 feet. This amount of snow may sound great to some people and not as great to others. For skiers and riders, it is great to be able to utilize the flotation provided by backcountry gear. For climbers, it might mean more challenging approaches, snow on route, and lots of post-holing. Consider bringing snowshoes depending on the objective. For overnight visitors it might mean melting snow for water if the creeks are still far below the surface of the snow. One thing that backcountry rangers have noticed in recent weeks is that the snow is wet and heavy and not freezing overnight. This seems to be true at fairly high elevations, and for different areas including Rainy Pass, Cascade Pass, and Hannegan Pass. The slushy conditions have made for slow travel, at times adding about 25-50% extra time if not more. This has been true for skiers and riders, and especially true for climbers without any flotation. Along with snow considerations, the amount of snowmelt and rain have increased the flows in the rivers, and this could continue for weeks to come as the weather warms up. Even small creeks might not be crossable at some flows, and the timeline for high flows might look different this year than in years prior. It is important to look into current conditions and plan your trip based on what you might encounter this year rather than assuming that it will be similar to what you saw last year at the same time. This includes many considerations, from travel times if the road is still impassable due to snow, to travel speed on snow versus on a trail, and whether or not a creek will be crossable. It might also include planning for a colder environment if you will be camping on snow, requiring more warm layers and more fuel if you are melting snow for water. Remember, plan accordingly in order to have a fun and safe trip. 
NPS/J. Shields Boston Basin Conditions, Sharkfin Col, Quien Sabe Glacier, Boston Peak It's a beautiful summertime wonderland in the Basin, with a dazzling wildflower display and happy marmots whistling and frolicking about! However, this long high-pressure period has resulted in lower snow levels at snow-to-rock transitions, calving snowfields, and weakening snow bridges. A longtime climbing ranger observed that the snow at Sharkfin Col is around 20' lower than usual, which necessitates that much more 4th class climbing for access. Start early and take care when crossing under snowfields lying on slabby, polished rock, as the day's heat will cause chunks to calve off and travel quickly downslope. Snow is firm in the morning but softens very quickly after sun exposure. Streams are still flowing swiftly at high volume - scout for good crossings and remember flow will increase greatly later in the day. Also be prepared for very bad biting blackflies and horseflies! Quien Sabe Glacier is still navigable but many crevasses have opened. Accessing the steep upper glacier requires dodging several very long cracks and crossing small remaining snow bridges. There is an undercut moat about 6' deep to gain the Boston-Sahale col. There is one short section of flat snow travel (visible in picture) on the ridge to Sahale. The standard route around the E side of Boston Peak traverses a steep snowfield with a 10' moat on its N side. Rappelling from the summit with a single 60-meter will not reach the second station - expect a 15' exposed downclimb on loose rock to reach it. We remind the climbing community that because Boston Basin is rightfully very popular, the permit system exists to prevent overcrowding, which detracts from enjoyment and can cause dangerous situations on routes. Bivying anywhere on the Torment-Forbidden-Boston-Sahale ridgeline is considered part of the Boston Basin cross-country zone and permits must specify this. A permit for the Forbidden cross-country zone necessitates dropping down onto the Forbidden or Boston Glaciers. 
NPS/B.Ducay Boston Basin Conditions, Forbidden Peak The Cascade River Road is now open and Boston Basin is busy! The approach couloir to the West Ridge of Forbidden was confirmed to be out of condition and that the Cat Scratch Gully is the preferred approach for the rest of this season. The Cat Scratch Gully can be deceiving in its difficulty and we recommend that you rope up for this section and to be careful of loose rock! There is no way to escape if a rock becomes dislodged higher up. The rappel stations on route were in good condition, but the rest must be downclimbed. Please keep in mind that going down can take longer than going up, especially with such high visitor use. We also saw numerous parties attempting to bivy at the base of the East Ridge Route on Forbidden Peak. This area is still considered within the boundaries of Boston Basin and your permit must reflect that. It is also not a good idea to be approaching that area so late in the day. The mountain was actively shedding rocks and snow in the heat while climbers were hiking up a confined gully below an area full of loose scree. A better choice would be to camp at the established upper bivy sites, doing the route camp to camp and avoiding the need to carry big packs up the east and down the west ridges. This area is receiving a tremendous amount of impact. There is a reason why we enforce park regulations and we kindly ask you to reflect on maintaining safety and wilderness character when you decide to travel in this spectacular area of the park.
July 18, 2021 Boston Basin Conditions Boston Creek and others are still flowing strongly but are crossable with caution throughout the day at the normal crossing sites. Visitors report the approach couloir for W Ridge of Forbidden has discontinuous snow and a difficult moat. Sharkfin Col's approach gully has continuous snow but shows much recent rockfall. Sharkfin Tower's approach gully is very wet with flowing water and has a ~5' tall and slightly undercut moat at its base, but remaining snow in the gully can now be bypassed. The Quien Sabe Glacier has open crevasses but has a navigable route between them. 
NPS/B.Ducay Boston Basin Conditions, Quien sabe Glacier With the recent high temperatures, Boston Basin currently reflects mid-summer conditions. The approach below treeline is straight-forward with some additional deadfall. The snow line is higher than expected at approximately 6200 feet. Water is flowing high and fast. Both branches of Boston creek were difficult to pass in the evening and necessitated an uphill detour to pass them safely. Both lower and upper bivy sites are melted out and both toilets are available for use. We also noticed that people have been building rock windwalls around bivy spots. We kindly request that you please refrain from doing so to maintain the wilderness environment that Boston Basin is known for. Bears seem to be very active in the area right now with numerous visitor encounters a lot of recent skat on trail. Please properly store your food! The Quien Sabe Glacier is in good condition but does have numerous crevasses to navigate on your way up. The moat at the top was badly undercut in spots and required scouting of safe exits onto rock. Be careful with what you are standing on and be conservative in this area. The approach gully to Sharkfin Tower was half full of snow. The approach gully to Sharkfin Col was still full of snow but also showed significant recent rockfall.
June 28, 2021 Boston Basin Conditions, Sharkfin, and W Ridge Forbidden (Visitor Reports) There are several treacherous creek crossings early on the approach from Cascade River Rd., the most notable being Midas Creek - travel early and cross with care. In Boston Basin the lower bivy sites are melted out along with the toilet, while the upper bivies are partially melted but threatened by glide avalanches from above. There is a strongly flowing creek on the way to the lower bivies that can be avoided by traveling on snow. Sharkin Tower is reported in good conditions but the approach gully is currently very steep - one party led adjacent rock instead of taking the couloir. The W Ridge of Forbidden route is snow-free, but the approach requires traveling under overhead snow and rockfall hazard. The approach couloir is reported easily to be accessed and in great shape. Remember that high temperatures lead to increased shedding of loose rock and snow which is most prevalent later in the day - climb early and be away from overhead hazard by afternoon. 
Boston Basin Conditions and West Ridge of Forbidden The climber’s route into Boston Basin is in standard condition (steep dirt gullies, with roots and many downed trees). We observed a bear near the climber’s route below the Upper Bivy site. The bear was acting normally and was not aggressive. Above the upper bivy site, climbers attempting the West Ridge of Forbidden will encounter and ascend dry granite slabs to a moderately steep snow slope. 
There are a variety of rock camp sites at the upper bivy area in Boston Basin and plenty of running water from snow patches. Please remember to use the composting toilets and carry blue bags! Do not deposit blue bags into composting toilets. You never know when you’re going to need to go! Lastly, bear canisters or Ursacks are required for all overnight visitors to the Boston Basin area. 
August 23rd, 2020 
The climbing rangers also observed several large crevasses forming on the Quien Sabe glacier, requiring climbing parties to climb around several large crevasses. We also observed a few bare ice patches forming on the glacier. Please use the composting toilets in Boston Basin, however do not place blue bags or food in the composting toilet! Unfortunately, we observed one blue bag in the upper Boston Basin composting toilet; removing blue bags from the composting toilet is difficult and unpleasant for staff. 
W. Tarantino/NPS Boston Basin and the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak The Quien Sabe Glacier is still in early season condition, but the lower icefall and the upper cravasses are quickly emerging, plan on some route finding on the way to the Boston/Sahale Saddle. The Shark-Fin col rappells are still easily accessed via the right-slanting snow couloir. About 2/3 of the way up to couloir turn left up a 4th class step to reach a short scramble to the upper notch. Two single-rope raps easily reach the Boston Glacier. The Boston Glacier is still in good shape with only short and minor route-finding problems, remember to double-check any snow-bridges, even if a previous party crossed safely, there's no guarentee its still strong enough to hold you! 
W. Tarantino/NPS 
W. Tarantino/NPS Marmots and other animal are awake in the Basin. Bears have also been seen in the Basin this time of year. Please use a bear can to store all of your food! July 28, 2020 
K. Arackellian/NPS July 18, 2020 
K. Arackellian/NPS Rangers report seeing multiple mountain goats and a bear in the alpine. Goats crave salt and will destroy fragile vegetation to get at the salt in urine, please pee away from your tent, preferably on rocks or snow. Bring an Animal Resistant Food Storage Container and store your food properly! 
E. Reed/NPS Boston Basin Conditions Expect brushy conditions and early season creek levels on the approach into the basin. The lower Boston Basin camp is starting to melt out and the toilet is available for use. Conditions in the upper basin remain snowy, plan on packing out all human waste if you want to stay at the upper bivy site. Climbing approaches and the basin's remaining glaciers are still in early season conditions. 
E. Reed/NPS Boston Basin Conditions Early season conditions continue to persist in the Boston Basin area. Rangers assessed the lower bivy sites and found the compost toilet melted out and available for use. There was also one melted out bivy site and running water nearby. The upper Boston Basin bivy sites are snow covered, no running water was observed and the upper compost toilet is still buried in snow. Plan accordingly and please bring Blue Bags. Consistent snow starts at around 5,500ft, close to treeline. Some ridge lines in the basin are starting to melt out, but the majority of travel is still on snow. Due to wet weather and poor visibility rangers did not get a good look at the snow in the West Ridge of Forbidden approach gulley or other route features, but we did observe previous wet loose avalanche activity. Please plan ahead and be prepared and enjoy the wilderness. 
A.Brun June 11, 2020 
Boston Basin and Forbidden West Ridge Conditions Trail to Boston Basin is in standard condition. Most creek crossings are easily fordable and can be crossed on rocks. Use care when crossing Morning Star creek as it can be difficult to cross in the afternoon. Plenty of huckle berries are available on the approach to Boston Basin. Composting toilets located at the lower and upper camps are in good condition. If camping overnight in Boston Basin, please store food properly. The snow couloir leading up to the West Ridge has melted out and climbers are accessing the West Ridge via the Cat Scratch gully. The approach gully to reach the base of the Cat Scratch gully is loose and in some places wet. 
Boston Basin Approach Approach to Boston Basin is in standard condition and mostly dry now. All creek crossings were straightforward with many options available. Both the upper and lower bivy sites are in great shape and snow free. The composting toilets are also both operable and in good condition. Please do not put anything but solid human waste in there. There are ample water sources available now in the alpine, even higher up in the basin as snowline has receded. We have had several bear sightings in the Lower Basin, so please remember to keep all food and trash in animal resistant containers. I spoke with one group who was coming off the West Ridge of Forbidden and reported that snow bridges gaining the Catscratch gully are becoming hollow, so assess conditions with caution. The Quien Sabe glacier has many open crevasses at this point in the summer, but still appears to remain passable. 
Boston Basin and Forbidden Peak Conditions Update The approach to Boston Basin is in standard condition (brushy, many downed trees and stream crossings). Recent sightings of bears walking through Low Camp area in Boston Basin! Please use bear canisters to help keep bears and all other wild animals wild. Climbers report that the W. Ridge Couloir was climbed on 8/6, but that they would not recommend going up that way from now on as the snow was barely navigable. Plenty of amazing wildflowers in bloom in the Basin! Monkey flower (Mimulus) and Epilobium are abound! Please camp on durable surfaces (rock or snow).
July 20, 2019 Boston Basin – Torment Peak Conditions Parking at the Boston Basin pull out is very limited – please carpool when possible. Be aware of steep drop off on South side of Cascade River road across from the parking area! Approach to Boston Basin is in good shape. Crossing Midas and Morning Star Creeks is relatively easy. Crossing the South fork of Boston creek on the other hand is a different story! Later in the day, as temperatures climb and flow rate increases the challenge goes up. Safest way to cross is to ford the creek where the route crosses over. Some chose to go up in the basin and find rocks to hop over and keep feet dry. You take your chances doing that. Be especially cautious of the unstable sides of the creek. There are many large boulders partially embedded in dirt just ready to roll down at the slightest pressure. Lower and Upper Bivy sites are mostly dry. Composting toilets are available and in good shape. Several parties reported seeing a bear nearby so please use the required animal resistant containers. And since you brought them up, please secure all your food while left unattended! We observed several cans with lids off while the owners were away from camp. South Ridge of Torment: Taboo glacier is in good shape. Virtually no crevasse navigation required. Crampons recommended for early starts. Gully leading up to the start of the South Ridge is steep and loose. With lower snow cover start of the route required few awkward mid 5 th class moves. Rest of the climb is as described in various books. Rappelling the Southeast face is straightforward. 7 to 8 rappels will get you down to the glacier. A single 60m rope works just fine. 4 th or 5 th rappel is 20 to 25 feet short of the next anchor but easy 3 rd class scramble will get you there. Forbidden’s West Ridge: Climbers reported that the snow finger in the couloir has developed a break half way up and is probably no longer passable at this time. Alternative “Cat Scratch” gully is the recommended way to access the West Ridge. Normal/Good conditions reported on the climb.
June 16, 2019 Boston Basin Area (W. Ridge of Forbidden and Sharkfin) Both upper and lower composter toilet melted out and useable. Please use the toilets or blue bag human waste and toilet paper. A few of the upper bivy sites are melted out, but many remain under snow. Some snow on approach to upper camps. Climbers report the couloir on the W. Ridge of Forbidden is in climbable shape as of 6/16/19. Many parties climbed up the couloir on 6/16/2019. Climbers report nothing particularly notable on the climb of Sharkfin and report the approach gully in okay condition. Marmots found chewing on trekking poles and backpacks at high camp. 
June 9th, 2019 
For old climbing conditions blog posts, check out the links below. |
Last updated: September 14, 2022