September 1 , 2019
Boston Basin and Forbidden West Ridge Conditions
Trail to Boston Basin is in standard condition. Most creek crossings are easily fordable and can be crossed on rocks. Use care when crossing Morning Star creek as it can be difficult to cross in the afternoon. Plenty of huckle berries are available on the approach to Boston Basin. Composting toilets located at the lower and upper camps are in good condition. If camping overnight in Boston Basin, please store food properly. The snow couloir leading up to the West Ridge has melted out and climbers are accessing the West Ridge via the Cat Scratch gully. The approach gully to reach the base of the Cat Scratch gully is loose and in some places wet.
Cat Scratch gully is in good condition, please be aware of party’s above you as they may inadvertently knock rocks down. The west ridge climbing route is in standard condition and rappel anchors are in good shape. Use caution when rappelling down the Cat Scratch Gully as it is easy to knock rocks down from the West Ridge notch. Rappel anchors in the Cat Scratch gully are in good shape. 5 single rope (60 meter) rappels will get you down to the base of the Cat Scratch gully. If planning to bivy at the West Ridge notch, there is no running water, be prepared to melt snow if staying there
August 28th, 2019
Boston Basin Approach
Approach to Boston Basin is in standard condition and mostly dry now. All creek crossings were straightforward with many options available. Both the upper and lower bivy sites are in great shape and snow free. The composting toilets are also both operable and in good condition. Please do not put anything but solid human waste in there. There are ample water sources available now in the alpine, even higher up in the basin as snowline has receded. We have had several bear sightings in the Lower Basin, so please remember to keep all food and trash in animal resistant containers. I spoke with one group who was coming off the West Ridge of Forbidden and reported that snow bridges gaining the Catscratch gully are becoming hollow, so assess conditions with caution. The Quien Sabe glacier has many open crevasses at this point in the summer, but still appears to remain passable.
August 7th, 2019
Boston Basin and Forbidden Peak Conditions Update
The approach to Boston Basin is in standard condition (brushy, many downed trees and stream crossings). Recent sightings of bears walking through Low Camp area in Boston Basin! Please use bear canisters to help keep bears and all other wild animals wild. Climbers report that the W. Ridge Couloir was climbed on 8/6, but that they would not recommend going up that way from now on as the snow was barely navigable. Plenty of amazing wildflowers in bloom in the Basin! Monkey flower (Mimulus) and Epilobium are abound! Please camp on durable surfaces (rock or snow).
July 20, 2019
Boston Basin – Torment Peak Conditions
Parking at the Boston Basin pull out is very limited – please carpool when possible. Be aware of steep drop off on South side of Cascade River road across from the parking area!
Approach to Boston Basin is in good shape. Crossing Midas and Morning Star Creeks is relatively easy. Crossing the South fork of Boston creek on the other hand is a different story! Later in the day, as temperatures climb and flow rate increases the challenge goes up. Safest way to cross is to ford the creek where the route crosses over. Some chose to go up in the basin and find rocks to hop over and keep feet dry. You take your chances doing that. Be especially cautious of the unstable sides of the creek. There are many large boulders partially embedded in dirt just ready to roll down at the slightest pressure.
Lower and Upper Bivy sites are mostly dry. Composting toilets are available and in good shape. Several parties reported seeing a bear nearby so please use the required animal resistant containers. And since you brought them up, please secure all your food while left unattended! We observed several cans with lids off while the owners were away from camp.
South Ridge of Torment: Taboo glacier is in good shape. Virtually no crevasse navigation required. Crampons recommended for early starts. Gully leading up to the start of the South Ridge is steep and loose. With lower snow cover start of the route required few awkward mid 5 th class moves. Rest of the climb is as described in various books. Rappelling the Southeast face is straightforward. 7 to 8 rappels will get you down to the glacier. A single 60m rope works just fine. 4 th or 5 th rappel is 20 to 25 feet short of the next anchor but easy 3 rd class scramble will get you there.
Forbidden’s West Ridge: Climbers reported that the snow finger in the couloir has developed a break half way up and is probably no longer passable at this time. Alternative “Cat Scratch” gully is the recommended way to access the West Ridge. Normal/Good conditions reported on the climb.
June 16, 2019
Boston Basin Area (W. Ridge of Forbidden and Sharkfin)
Both upper and lower composter toilet melted out and useable. Please use the toilets or blue bag human waste and toilet paper. A few of the upper bivy sites are melted out, but many remain under snow. Some snow on approach to upper camps. Climbers report the couloir on the W. Ridge of Forbidden is in climbable shape as of 6/16/19. Many parties climbed up the couloir on 6/16/2019. Climbers report nothing particularly notable on the climb of Sharkfin and report the approach gully in okay condition. Marmots found chewing on trekking poles and backpacks at high camp.
June 9th, 2019
From June 1 to November 15, Interagency Grizzly Bear Commitee approved food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin , El Dorado , and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones.
For old climbing conditions blog posts, check out the links below.
Last updated: September 2, 2019