Climbing Conditions

North Cascades National Park offers a lifetime of mountaineering objectives.

Winnie Hsieh

 

August 2025

Late summer is here, and it might mean heat advisories but it also could bring heavy rain. We have seen a fresh dusting of snow at the highest elevations, so check the freezing levels as we get closer to September. We have mostly avoided smoke in much of the North Cascades, but that is because of almost weekly precip, so prepare for occassional wet hiking days and slippery rock climbs. Snow and glacier conditions are quickly moving to open crevasses and moat challenges.

For planning purposes, we suggest a backup plan or two for the permit that you are looking for as everyone else is looking for permits this time of year. Some of these walk-up permits require you to show up in Marblemount at the Wilderness Information Center, and some can be remotely issued via email. This is new for some areas, so familiarize yourself with our updated remote issue policies. This information can be found on our backcountry permit page under the drop-down menu for "Where to pick up a permit."

Be sure to check the weather forecast, trail conditions, and closures beforehand. As always, leave a detailed itinerary with a friend or family member, including the date and time you plan to exit the backcountry.

 

Helpful Links

• Planning a Climb
• Road Conditions
• Trail Conditions
• Fire Closures
• Food Storage Requirement
• Backcountry Permit

Closures and Notices

Stay up-to-date with road, trail, and camp closures related to wildfire and seasonal winter closures using the helpful links provided. Understand the rules and regulations, including food storage requirements at each camp or cross-country zone, prior to your visit. You can find the backcountry permit process and regulations on the backcountry permit page. ALL overnight trips in the park require a backcountry permit.

Note:

• Overnight camping at trailheads in the national park is prohibited. This includes the Eldorado, Boston Basin, and Cascade Pass trailheads.

• Park access is affected by an upcoming detour on Cascade River Road.

 

Current and General Climbing Conditions

Climbing conditions are reported by climbing rangers, and updated as frequently as possible.

Mount Shuksan

A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location on Sulphide Glacier can be found here: 

Climbing Conditions - Mt. Shuksan

Route	Reported Conditions
Fisher Chimney	7/6- A few patches of snow remain in the chimneys. A few dry sites at the lower and upper bivies.  6/16- Highway 542 is still closed at Heather Meadows at this point.
Sulphide Glacier	7/5 - Both composting toilets have been dug out and are open for use. The upper and lower bivy sites each have a few dry tent pads. 6/16 - The road is drivable to the trailhead. The trail is snow free up until about 4200', and contimuous at 4400'. The Central Gullies route is still a steep snow climb at this time.

Eldorado Area

A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location on Eldorado can be found here: 

Climbing Conditions - Eldorado Area

Route	Reported Conditions
Eldorado Peak - East Ridge	6/27-Cascade River road is open all the way to the Cascade Pass Trailhead. 5/8 - The snowline is moving up towards the top of the boulderfield.
Dorado Needle	5/8 - No recent report.

Boston Basin Area (Forbidden Peak, Sharkfin, Sahale via Quien Sabe)

A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location at Boston Basin can be found here: 

Climbing Conditions - Boston Basin Area

Route	Reported Conditions
Boston Basin Approach	6/30- Both the upper and lower bivy composters are melted out. Lower bivy sites all melted out, none of the upper bivy sites are melted out.  The West Ridge couloir appears to be a snow climb still, though unsure if the snow is continuous. Cat scratch gullies appeared snow free with some lingering snow at the base and directly above. The three ridge routes on Forbidden appear to be snow free as well.  6/27-Cascade River road is open all the way to the Cascade Pass trailhead. Boston Basin cross country zone and approach trail are open, but bears are still active in the area. Be diligent about storing your food properly to avoid issues with wildlife.
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge	6/27-Cascade River road is open all the way to the Cascade Pass trailhead.
Forbidden Peak - East Ridge	5/8 - No recent report.
Sahale via Quien Sabe Glacier	6/27-Cascade River road is open all the way to the Cascade Pass trailhead.
Sharkfin	5/8 - No recent report.
Torment-Forbidden Traverse	5/8 - No recent report.

Northern Pickets

Hannegan Pass Trailhead
8/12 - The road is drivable to the trailhead, big thanks to the USFS for fixing the trailhead! The trail to Hannegan Pass is dry, with a few water sources up until Hannegan Camp. 

Southern Pickets

5/8 - The road to the Goodell Creek trailhead is drivable to the trailhead. Consistent snow starts at or above 4600' elevation.

Mount Triumph

5/8 - No recent report.

Colonial/Snowfield Area

 

Route	Reported Condition
Pyramid Lake Approach	5/8 - No recent report.
Snowfield Peak/Neve Glacier	5/8 - No recent report.

Other Areas

Mt. Goode  NE Buttress 
7/15 - Expect some downed trees on the trail above Walker Park, and more on the trail down Park Creek. The Goode Glacier has some glacial ice showing but is still snow-covered enough to be straightforward for now. The moat crossing was easy enough but could change quickly with hot temps.

Bacon Peak, Mount Hagan, Mount Blum 
7/15 - No recent report.