Climbing Conditions

North Cascades National Park offers a lifetime of mountaineering objectives.

Winnie Hsieh

 

May 2025

The generally warm and sunny weather that we saw in April seems to have transitioned into more "normal" or "average" weather for the month of May. According to some outlooks, May is trending towards near average temperatures and even slightly above average precipitation totals for northwest Washington, including the North Cascades.

As of the first week of May, the snowpack in the North Cascades is all but gone below 4000', and feels healthy once above 5000' elevation. South-facing terrain is melting out quicker than other aspects, and there is a noticable change once you move to north-facing terrain where the snowpack is closer to average depth. Keep in mind that we have not seen a real high water event yet this spring, meaning creeks and rivers could rise quickly with a couple warm days in a row or a warm rain-on-snow event.

Be sure to check the weather forecast, trail conditions, and closures beforehand. As always, leave a detailed itinerary with a friend or family member, including the date and time you plan to exit the backcountry.

 

Helpful Links

• Planning a Climb
• Road Conditions
• Trail Conditions
• Fire Closures
• Food Storage Requirement
• Backcountry Permit

Closures and Notices

Stay up-to-date with road, trail, and camp closures related to wildfire and seasonal winter closures using the helpful links provided. Understand the rules and regulations, including food storage requirements at each camp or cross-country zone, prior to your visit. You can find the backcountry permit process and regulations on the backcountry permit page. ALL overnight trips in the park require a backcountry permit.

Note:

• Overnight camping at trailheads in the national park is prohibited. This includes the Eldorado, Boston Basin, and Cascade Pass trailheads.

 

Current and General Climbing Conditions

Climbing conditions are reported by climbing rangers, and updated as frequently as possible.

Mount Shuksan

A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location on Sulphide Glacier can be found here: 

Climbing Conditions - Mt. Shuksan

Route	Reported Conditions
Fisher Chimney	5/1- Highway 542 is closed at Heather Meadows.
Sulphide Glacier	5/22 - The road is drivable to the trailhead. 5/22 - The trail is snow free up until about 4200' elevation.

Eldorado Area

A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location on Eldorado can be found here: 

Climbing Conditions - Eldorado Area

Route	Reported Conditions
Eldorado Peak - East Ridge	5/8 - The road is open to the Eldorado trailhead. The snowline is moving up towards the top of the boulderfield.
Dorado Needle	5/8 - No recent report.

Boston Basin Area (Forbidden Peak, Sharkfin, Sahale via Quien Sabe)

A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location at Boston Basin can be found here: 

Climbing Conditions - Boston Basin Area

Route	Reported Conditions
Boston Basin Approach	6/6- Boston Basin cross country zone and approach trail is now open, but bears are still active in the area. Be diligent about storing your food properly to avoid issues with wildlife.  5/8 - Cascade River Road is gated at Eldorado trailhead at mile 20, so plan on walking an additional 2+ miles to access Boston Basin trailhead.
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge	5/8 - Cascade River Road is gated at Eldorado trailhead at mile 20, so plan on walking an additional 2+ miles to access Boston Basin trailhead.
Forbidden Peak - East Ridge	5/8 - No recent report.
Sahale via Quien Sabe Glacier	5/8 - Cascade River Road is gated at Eldorado trailhead at mile 20, so plan on walking an additional 2+ miles to access Boston Basin trailhead.
Sharkfin	5/8 - No recent report.
Torment-Forbidden Traverse	5/8 - No recent report.

Northern Pickets

Hannegan Pass Trailhead
5/8 - The road is drivable to within a mile of the trailhead. The trail to Hannegan Pass is a mixture of dirt trail and snow, with numerous avalanche paths covering the trail until full snow coverage starting 2+ miles from the trailhead.

Southern Pickets

5/8 - The road to the Goodell Creek trailhead is drivable to the trailhead. Consistent snow starts at or above 4600' elevation.

Mount Triumph

5/8 - No recent report.

Colonial/Snowfield Area

 

Route	Reported Condition
Pyramid Lake Approach	5/8 - No recent report.
Snowfield Peak/Neve Glacier	5/8 - No recent report.

Other Areas

Mt. Goode  NE Buttress 
5/8 - No recent report.

Bacon Peak, Mount Hagan, Mount Blum 
5/8 - No recent report.