Frequently Asked Questions About Climbing

FAQs and Guidelines For Climbers

If you’re planning a climbing trip to Pinnacles National Park, it’s essential to familiarize yourself with the park's unique conditions and regulations. Whether you're new to the area or a seasoned climber, these answers to common questions will help ensure your adventure is safe and enjoyable. For additional guidance, we recommend reading the Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, Second Edition (1995) by David Rubine, or contacting Friends of Pinnacles.

What regulations apply to climbing at Pinnacles?

1. Climbing Restrictions: Climbing is prohibited on routes where rockfall or dropped gear could pose a risk to hikers on established trails. This includes, but is not limited to, Moses Spring Wall (routes 113-124) and Route 776 as listed in the Climber's Guide. Routes above climber access or social trails are not subject to this restriction.

2. Bolting Regulations: Power drills are not permitted for bolting. The long-standing ethic at Pinnacles is "ground up" for first ascents, meaning rappel-placed bolts are not consistent with the park's tradition.

3. Seasonal Closures: From January to July, certain formations may be closed to protect nesting falcons and eagles. Check with a ranger or the climbing information boards at the East and West trailheads for specific route closures. These closures are voluntary, but disturbing nesting wildlife may result in fines.

4. Environmental Considerations: We encourage the use of brown or gray webbing for anchors to minimize visual impact. Also, consider using "chalk balls" instead of loose chalk to reduce chalk marks on handholds.

What is the rock like at Pinnacles?

The rock at Pinnacles is volcanic breccia, which is much weaker than granite. It’s wise to take a cautious approach, especially if it's your first time climbing here. Some key safety precautions include:

• Test holds: Tap potential handholds with your fingertips to check for hollowness.
• Inspect bolts carefully: Many are old or poorly installed.
• Always use redundant systems and wear a helmet, especially on the West Side where loose rocks are common.
• Be prepared: Bring a headlamp with extra batteries, plenty of food, water, and extra clothing. Temperatures can vary drastically throughout the day.

Where are the closest places to climb?

• East Side: The closest climbs are at Tourist Trap and Discovery Wall, about 10-15 minutes from the Bear Gulch Day Use Area. Access trails are marked with a 4x4 post and a locking carabiner.
• West Side: Routes near Passion Play and Game Show are about 15 minutes from the Chaparral parking lot, along the Balconies Trail.

Where are some easier and intermediate routes?

While any route at Pinnacles can be challenging due to the weak rock and poor protection, here are a few popular climbs:

• Bear Gulch Side: Routes on First Sister (5.4 and 5.5), Portent on Discovery Wall, Ordeal (5.8), and Wet Kiss(5.9) on Discovery Wall.
• Chaparral Side: Chockstone Dome (5.3-5.8 range), Destiny (5.8) on Machete Ridge, and Bits 'n Pieces (5.9) on the Flumes Formation.
• High Peaks: Unmentionable (5.7), Pipsqueak Pinnacle (5.5), and several 5.2-5.6 routes on the Sponge.

Remember that the route rating does not always reflect safety—many routes have aging bolts or are run out.

Where can I do some top-roping?

Top-rope systems can be set up in a few areas on the East Side:

• Top Rope Wall (5.4-5.9 range)
• Back Door (5.9-5.12 range)
• Upper Crust (5.8-5.12 range)

Most other formations require a lead climber to set up anchors.

Where can I go bouldering?

Bouldering opportunities at Pinnacles are limited. You can try Bouldering Rock on the West Side or the base of rocks at Long's Folly in the High Peaks. Always ensure your safety and let someone know your climbing plans if you’re heading out alone.

 

Additional Important Details

For more detailed information, check the Climber's Safety Advisory and Raptor Advisory updates. Additionally, please refer to the Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, second edition, 1995 by David Rubine or contact the Friends of Pinnacles, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving climbing at the park.