Pinnacles Climber's Safety Advisory

The Routes: Climbing at Pinnacles National Park

Pinnacles National Park offers a unique climbing experience, with most routes involving steep, bolt-protected face climbs. However, the volcanic breccia rock here is significantly weaker than the granite or basalt found at other climbing destinations, making it crucial for climbers to adjust their expectations.

General Route Information

Routes graded below 5.10 tend to be "run-out" and poorly protected, with many climbers finding even 5.6 routes challenging due to brittle rock and unreliable protection. The East Side generally offers more solid rock, while the West Side features the monument's longest routes but with more fragile formations. For your first climbs at Pinnacles, we recommend starting with easier routes—5.6 or 5.7—regardless of your usual lead level.

Anticipate that climbs may take longer than expected, and always test holds and bolts before relying on them. Tapping a hold with your fingertips—if it sounds hollow, it's likely unsafe.

Placing Protection

The weak rock at Pinnacles requires extra caution when placing protection. What may seem secure on granite or other sturdy rock may not hold here. Always think carefully when placing protection, as your safety could depend on it.

Bolting

Bolts at Pinnacles are not maintained by the National Park Service. Here are some key points to consider:

1. Aging Bolts: Bolts do not improve with age and are prone to failure over time.
2. Weak Rock: Even new bolts may fail due to the weak nature of Pinnacles' rock. Always inspect bolts carefully.
3. Older Bolts: Some routes may still have hardware store bolts such as 1/4" compression bolts or 3/8" Star Dryvin expansion bolts—consider these highly suspect.
4. Ethics: By tradition, first ascents at Pinnacles are done ground-up, with no rappel-placed bolts. Power drills are not allowed. If replacing bolts, use at least 3/8"x 3 1/2" five-piece Rawl expansion bolts or another climbing-specific bolt, and paint the hanger to match the rock.

The NPS assumes no responsibility for the maintenance or condition of bolts or anchor stations. Climbers assume responsibility for their own safety and decisions.

Rock Fall

Rockfall is common at Pinnacles, whether caused by nature or climbers. Always wear a helmet, especially on the West Side. If you dislodge a rock, yell "Rock!" to alert those below. Avoid climbing above hiking trails to prevent rockfall injuries to hikers.

Rescue and Emergency Contacts

In case of injury, stranded climbers, or emergencies:

• Contact a ranger. If no ranger is available, use the payphone to dial 911.
• Always be prepared. Know the route, carry extra food, water, clothing, and a headlamp, and be ready for self-rescue if necessary.

Key Safety Tips:

• Use a helmet.
• Know and practice self-rescue techniques.
• Carry a guidebook and first-aid kit.
• Bring two ropes for multi-pitch climbs.
• Use redundant anchor systems.

Wildlife Disturbance

Climbing near nesting birds or bats is strictly prohibited. Seasonal closures (January to July) are in place to protect nesting raptors. Check for current closures at the Visitors Center or climbing information boards. Climbing in restricted areas can endanger wildlife and result in citations.

Erosion

To prevent erosion and protect plant life, stay on established hiking and climbing trails. Look for signs with a locking carabiner symbol that mark designated climber access trails.

Scenic Impact

Minimize your visual impact by using camouflaged bolts and dark-colored slings, and consider using chalk balls to reduce visible chalk marks. Chipping holds or removing vegetation from a route is prohibited.

For more information, refer to the Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, available at the Visitor Centers.

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For More Information

• Frequently Asked Questions about Climbing at Pinnacles
• Raptor Advisory Information
• Friends of Pinnacles: A nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving climbing and the environment at Pinnacles.

Enjoy your climbing experience at Pinnacles National Park!