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NPS 
NPS/A.Brun Sulphide Glacier Route The route is becoming more challenging in these late season conditions as the glacier continually melts out. As previously mentioned, teams should be prepared for steeper exposed glacial ice and crevasse hazard management from the lower bivy sites to base of the summit pyramid. Plan for more time navigating this terrain. Also, understand that the route up may not be the safest option down as conditions change throughout the day. There have been multiple reports of snow bridges collapsing and parties turning around due to the nature of the glacier. Both the lower and upper bivy sites offer snow-free sites and multiple water sources. There are many sites that have been built at the lower bivy sites, please use the pre-existing impacted sites and do not create new ones. 
Photo by NPS/Preston Fisher Chimneys Route As with other trails and climbs in the North Cascades, expect late season conditions on the Fisher Chimneys Route. Late season brings out the day hikers, so remember, the trail to Lake Ann is a popular day hike, the parking lot is small, and a Northwest Forest Parking Pass is required. Plan accordingly. There are a couple water sources between the trailhead and the NPS boundary sign, but the next reliable water source is likely above Winnie's Slide at the upper bivy site. On hot afternoons there may be a trickle of running water below Winnie's Slide, but this source is not reliable as overnight temperatures are starting to drop with Autumn approaching. The consensus among climbers on the Fisher Chimneys was that full shank boots and 2 ice tools was the way to go as Winnie's Slide and Hell's Highway are steep and icy right now. Both can be protected with a combination of ice screws as well as pickets, so having a few of each makes a lot of sense. As you are climbing, remember that what goes up must come down, so have a decent strategy for getting yourself and your team back down. As with the Sulphide where the routes join, the Upper Curtis Glacier is broken up and requires good glacier navigation skills. The route may involve transitions from ice to snow and back to ice, and tracks may lead you to a dead end or a weak snow bridge. 
Sulphide Glacier Route Shout out to the Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest trail crew for the beautification work they did on the Shannon Ridge Trail! The trail is currently in great shape after the winter blow down was removed. If you see a USFS employee be sure to say thank you. The Sulphide Glacier route is in challenging late season conditions. Teams should be prepared for exposed glacial ice and crevasse hazard management from the bottom of the glacier to base of the summit pyramid. Because of hot temps over the last weeks, the glacier is changing quickly and a set of footprints or a gpx track from a couple days ago might lead to trouble in the form of weak snow bridges or a dead end route. Additional caution getting from the snow onto the rock at the base of the summit pyramid, as the moat is growing and changing quickly. Freezing temps dropped to 6500’ on August 19, 2023, but haze from the wildfires moved in as well. The smoke was noticeable in both the smell and in the visibility, but it didn’t stop teams from going up to the summit. The freezing temps surely helped strengthen snow bridges, although this might be a temporary situation if freezing levels rise. Both the Lower and the Upper Bivy Sites are snow free and in good shape. The lower sites have free-flowing water all day, but the upper sites did not have water when we visited in mid-morning. If we may provide a couple reminders: -Please travel and camp on durable surfaces- do not trample or camp on vegetation, but find a rocky site for your tent or bivy. -NO TRASH IN THE TOILETS!! This includes wag bags and blue bags. 
NPS/ABrun July 20th, 2023 The USFS completed clearing the Shannon Ridge trail of trees over the trail on July 19 and the trail is in good shape. Climbers should expect to encounter crevasses on the Sulphide Glacier Route. At approximately 7,900 feet elevation we encountered multiple small crevasses and small patches of bare ice; simple route-finding was required to navigate through these crevasses. Additional crevasses were observed above this point as well but were easy to negotiate. The transition from snow to access the central gully rock was straightforward. There is one small patch of snow remaining in the central gully on the summit pyramid. Otherwise, the route up and down the central gully is dry. Please inspect the rappel stations in the central gully before using them. 
NPS/J. Shields Sulphide Glacier and Summit Pyramid Travel on the Sulphide Glacier from Hell's Highway to the SE Ridge of the summit pyramid was direct with no crevasse navigation or snow bridge crossings. Transition from snow to rock below SE ridge consisted of a clean intersect from supportable snow to loose rock just below the ridge. SE ridge was dry to the summit. Descent of the Central Gully was mostly dry with one large snowpatch remaining ~3/4's of the way down the gully. Several rappel stations found on descent. Be sure to inspect these stations thoroughly before weighting them. Central Gully consists of large blocks of loose rock. Be mindful when descending above climbing party's and when pulling your rope from rappel stations. Transition from Central Gully back onto snow consisted of several weak snow bridges that could easily be punched through. Use caution and inspect snow before commiting to transition. 
NPS/J. Shields Fisher Chimney's Approach from Lake Ann TH involved some snow travel, particularly on the final ascent up to Lake Ann. Patches of snow encountered on traverse from Lake Ann to the base of the Chimney's with significant amount of postholing. Moats are developing at the snow/rock intersect as you begin the initial scramble up the lower and upper chimney. Some large patches of snow remain in the chimneys proper, but can be avoided. Multiple water sources are available on your way up, but the bivy below Winnie's slide does not currently have a good water source. If planning to bivy there, make sure to fill up before gaining to snow field above the Chimneys and traversing over. Bivy spots above Winnie's slide contain a great water source from runoff of the Upper Curtis Glacier. Human waste bags were found at the bivy below Winnie's slide. Please remember to pack out your trash and waste and make an effort to keep this area clean as it sees a lot of traffic. 
T. Denison/NPS June 24, 2023Sulphide Glacier The road is driveable to the trailhead but still has several washout trenches (this time a Corolla was seen at the trailhead.) The blowdown section between 4000' and 4300' is much easier to navigate now that the snow has receded to about ~4900', on the ridge below the notch. The Lower Bivy toilet is snow free and in great shape, and there are a handfull of small snow free spots for 1-2 person tents- maybe 2 spots for larger tents. Plan on camping on snow at the Lower Bivy, unless you are one of the first groups to claim a dry site. The Upper Bivy is still under snow and the toilet is very buried at this time. The Sulphide Glacier route is in great shape with lots of snow covering crevasses and making for easy travel, and the summit pyramid is snow free. 
NPS /J.Shields Fisher Chimneys The Fisher Chimneys is a popular route right now and is in good condition. The chimneys are completely snow free until ~6,600ft (above the white salmon glacier) and the approach from Lake Ann travels through only a couple small snow patches. The bivy sites below Winnie's Slide are melted out with a small water source just below Winnie's Slide that ran consistently throughout the day. There are a couple bivy sites just above Winnie's slide with a larger water source. Crevasses are opening up on the Curtis Glacier but travel is generally straight forward to Hell's Highway. Hell's Highway does have some visible crevasses on climber's left, most parties seem to climb the shorter steep pitch on the right and ascend the ridge to the Sulphide Glacier. Both Winnie's Slide and Hell's Highway are still steep snow travel (not yet hard ice). Most climbing parties used 2 ice tools to descend these sections. 
NPS/J.Shields Getting onto both the SE Ridge and gully of the pyramid is straight forward. The SE Ridge is completely snow free. The gully has a large patch of snow down low and one near the top that can be avoided. There is a lot of rappel stations set up in the gully for descending. Descending the gully with a 60m rope took most teams about 3 rappels with a combination of down climbing. 
NPS/J.Shields Sulphide Glacier Snowpack continues to be higher than average for this time of year. Snow travel on Shannon Ridge Trail starts at ~4,200ft elevation and with continuous snow cover at ~4,600ft. Both the lower and upper bivy site toilets have been dug out. The lower bivy site toilet is currently at its capacity, so please try to use blue bags and the upper bivy toilet instead. Do not leave human waste on the snow – rangers had to clean up a lot of surface poop. There is a running water source at both the lower and upper bivy sites. A couple lower bivy sites have melted out, but still plan to camp on snow. A shovel can still be essential to build a platform for snow camping. As a reminder, food canisters or ursacks are required for camping below the vegetation line (~5,800ft), which includes “the notch” below the lower bivy site. There are subtle signs of crevasses on Sulphide Glacier approaching Summit Pyramid. Summit Pyramid itself is dynamic and snow is quickly melting off. The SE Ridge is snow free but there’s still snow hanging in the gully. Moats are starting to develop and will become a transitioning obstacle in the near future. 
NPS K.Vollinger The road to the trailhead has been repaired! Most vehicles can drive to the parking area, but two stream gullies must be crossed and require some clearance (we saw one sedan managed to make it to the parking lot). Shannon Ridge trail has continuous snow coverage shortly after 4000 feet. There is running water currently near the lower bivy site. Both toilets are still buried under heaps of snow. Expect to camp on snow; at least one shovel can be an essential tool in the alpine. There are no crevasses visible on the climbing route proper at the moment. On the steeper slopes to climber's right of the standard route above the bivies, there are subtle signs of crevasses (long trenches). The rangers only went to about 7700 feet on the glacier, but the snow to that point was very supportable and consolidated for easier travel on snow. The summit pyramid is covered in snow still, and rock patches are slowly melting out. However, expect steep snow climbing to be all or the bulk of the route for a while. A guided party that climbed the route straight up the middle of the face early on 6/27 (middle of the first "heatwave'), reported that even with clear skies that night the route barely set up. It was breakable crust most of the way up the summit pyramid, making the route only doable by staying in the center runnel to the summit. They were able to move out of the trench only in the last section to the summit when it became firm neve for better front pointing. Being in the trench exposes climbers to terrain trap hazard as it funnels rock and snow/ice fall. The snow will likely be more supportive for front pointing with cooler, clear nights; but be concerned for overhead hazard if things have not set up overnight or when the face moves into the sun. Currently that face starts moving into the sun around 8:15 am. 
NPS/B. Muller June 5, 2022 Keep in mind that “above average snowpack” can be misleading if just looking at a percentage. Thunder basin snotel site, for example, is well above average for this date (currently 1500%), and the site currently has 20” of snow on the ground. Easy Pass is also above average at 130% snowpack but is recording 130” or over 10 feet. This amount of snow may sound great to some people and not as great to others. For skiers and riders, it is great to be able to utilize the flotation provided by backcountry gear. For climbers, it might mean more challenging approaches, snow on route, and lots of post-holing. Consider bringing snowshoes depending on the objective. For overnight visitors it might mean melting snow for water if the creeks are still far below the surface of the snow. One thing that backcountry rangers have noticed in recent weeks is that the snow is wet and heavy and not freezing overnight. This seems to be true at fairly high elevations, and for different areas including Rainy Pass, Cascade Pass, and Hannegan Pass. The slushy conditions have made for slow travel, at times adding about 25-50% extra time if not more. This has been true for skiers and riders, and especially true for climbers without any flotation. Along with snow considerations, the amount of snowmelt and rain have increased the flows in the rivers, and this could continue for weeks to come as the weather warms up. Even small creeks might not be crossable at some flows, and the timeline for high flows might look different this year than in years prior. It is important to look into current conditions and plan your trip based on what you might encounter this year rather than assuming that it will be similar to what you saw last year at the same time. This includes many considerations, from travel times if the road is still impassable due to snow, to travel speed on snow versus on a trail, and whether or not a creek will be crossable. It might also include planning for a colder environment if you will be camping on snow, requiring more warm layers and more fuel if you are melting snow for water. Remember, plan accordingly in order to have a fun and safe trip.
September 11, 2021 Sulphide Glacier More ice has been exposed and the Sulphide route requires extensive travel on blue ice with unbridged crevasses. Climbers report finding a snow tongue across the moat to access the central gully of the summit pyramid. Note that there is no water flowing at the upper bivy area anymore. There have been several vehicle break-ins at the trailhead recently; remember that it is best to not leave any valuables or objects visible inside. 
Photo by NPS/A. Brun Sulphide Glacier Conditions on Sulphide Glacer route include open crevasses, large snow-bridges, long sections of bare ice, and a field of closely-spaced crevasses below the summit pyramid. Since the last NPS patrol there is a considerable about of bare ice on the glacier that is present and requires care when ascending or descending. Rangers were able to easily access the base of the summit pyramid on the climbers left side of the pyramid, no moat was present at the time of our patrol. The central gully was in standard condition and rappel anchors are in good shape. The composting toilet at the lower bivy site on Sulphide Glacier is almost at capacity and includes standing water – please do not pee in the composting toilet. Rangers have installed a solar fan on the toilet to reduce the amount of standing water - please do not tamper with the fan. Rangers continue to observe additional rock wind walls and cleared areas at the lower bivy camp – please do not create wind walls or move rocks to make campsites. Rangers encountered many pieces of trash; please remember to check your camp before leaving to ensure you have not left anything behind. 
August 20, 2021 Sulphide Glacier Climbers traversing the Sulphide Glacer should expect to encounter open crevasses, snowbridges, a few sections of bare ice, and to navigate through a field of closely-spaced crevasses below the summit pyramid. Both bivy areas on the Sulphide have flowing water, but water at the upper bivy sites is running low. Rangers were not able to locate flowing water at the base of the summit pyramid - plan to carry all of your water from camp on summit day. Water is also limited on the Shannon Ridge trail 
Rangers were able to easily access the base of the summit pyramid on the climbers left side of the pyramid, no moat was present at the time of our patrol. The central gully was in good shape and rappel anchors were abundant. It appears access to the notch at the normal start of the SE Rib is possible but would require ascending a slope of bare ice. 
The composting toilet at the lower bivy site on Sulphide Glacier is nearing capacity and includes standing water – please do not pee in the composting toilet. Rangers have installed a solar fan on the toilet to reduce the amount of standing water - please do not tamper with the fan. Rangers also observed additional rock wind walls and cleared areas at the lower camp – please do not create wind walls or move rocks to make campsites. All climbers should be prepared to camp on snow if the rock campsites are occupied by other visitors. 
J. Shields/NPS Sulphide Glacier Snow cover on the glaciers continues to dwindle. Climbers on the Sulphide route should expect to cross several open crevasses over snowbridges, travel at least briefly upon blue ice, and navigate through a field of successive closely-spaced cracks just past the top of Hell's Highway. Both bivy areas on the Sulphide have flowing water, but it's reported that no useful flowing water exists at the base of the summit pyramid - plan to carry all of your water from camp on summit day. The flat, rocky gear-up area at the base of the summit pyramid is reported difficult to access due to a large moat. Accessing the notch at the normal start of the SE Rib requires traveling up a slope of blue ice. Lastly, rangers packed out many full blue bags that had been abandoned near the lower bivy area in the snow above the water source. For the sake of courtesy towards other climbers, and safety for everyone, please make sure your waste ends up in an appropriate place: either in the toilets (do not put blue bags into toilets) or off of the mountain. 
B.Ducay/NPS Fisher Chimneys – Pickets, Pitons and Poop North Cascades National Park is now in late season condition with more hard ice and ever-growing crevasses. The hot summer has really affected the glaciers in a bad way. Winnie’s slide was predominately ice with some snow steps on climbers right. Hell’s Highway was steeper and more crevassed than normal. This can make the route slightly more difficult and maybe more fun for the right people but be sure to have adequate gear. Steel crampons are recommended to safely navigate icy sections. As part of a sustainable climbing culture, we should not be leaving gear on the mountain unless necessary. We found 3 pickets and a new 2 piton fixed anchor on route. We implore you to leave the mountain as you found it. None of this gear was required to safely descend and fixed anchors are unlawful within park boundaries. We also collected some poop located on snow 10 feet above the closest water source for lower Winnie’s Slide camps and right next to the base of the slope. This is unacceptable and dangerous. There are no toilets on this side of the mountain and you are expected to pack out your waste. If you camp in this area be sure to collect water from a different source. As for conditions on other nearby routes, the upper Sulphide Glacier was more crevassed than expected and a visitor reported that the upper section of Shuksan’s North Face was no longer holding snow. Have fun in the mountains and please be respectful of these wild places. 
J. Shields/NPS Fisher Chimneys, Southeast Ridge, & Sulphide Glacier Price and Sulphide Glacier XC zones are still experiencing high use with multiple parties ascending both the summit pyramid’s Southeast Ridge and south gully every day. Fisher Chimneys are snow free, with only a few large snow crossings and one small moat on the approach. Bivy sites above and below the chimneys are also snow free with water sources at the sites at the base of the chimneys and upper Winnie’s Slide (not at lower Winnie’s slide); remember there are no toilets at these sites – be prepared to pack out your waste. Winnie’s slide is soft snow and Hell’s Highway has some ice – both with solid bucket steps to follow on our climb. Steel crampons were good to have due to the icy patches. Snow conditions were firm in the morning and slushy in the afternoon. There is a water source available at the bottom of the Summit Pyramid and insignificant snow in the south gully. Watch for rockfall hazard in the gully especially with multiple parties ascending/descending. Small cracks are opening up on the upper Sulphide Glacier. The toilets are fully melted out and there are water sources for both the upper and lower Sulphide Glacier bivy sites. Please remember to not camp on vegetation – dry sites are limited so always be prepared to camp on snow. 
B.Ducay/NPS Sulphide Glacier Route Both the Price Glacier and the Sulphide XC zones were completely booked this weekend. Subsequent weekends of good weather and the Cascade River Road closure have united to cause unusually high use on Mount Shuksan. Parties on either side of the mountain often converge on the same route up and down the summit pyramid thereby causing crowding and potential for hazard. Please be patient and mind any loose rock while on route. On the approach to the Sulphide Glacier via the Shannon Ridge trail, snow is patchy once cresting the ridge and consistent after passing through the notch. The glacier still looks to be in good condition however, crevasses are starting open on the route. Bivy spots continue to melt out with warm temps. Both toilets are now available for use. Please only human waste and TP in the toilets – no blue bags or trash! 
B.Ducay/NPS Sulphide Glacier Route The heat brings the Sulphide Glacier route into a transitional period where the glacier presents minimal crevassing and little difficulty but the upper pyramid gully is half full of rotten snow and not advised at this time. The trail was 90% covered in snow at approximately 4300 feet. Snow was firm underfoot on the glacier but losing cohesion fast with the high temperatures this weekend. There was a significant avalanche that occurred overnight and crossed the main route to the glacier camps. Look up, down and around to identify any hazards that may be present, including overhead hazards in high temperatures as well as any runout consequences in unsupportable snow. Both the upper and lower bivy sites provided a few tent spots off the snow, but only the upper site has a toilet currently available. This backcountry toilet is located on the backside of the ridge near the upper bivy sites looking towards Mt. Baker - please use it! 
A. Brun/NPS Sulphide Glacier Route Normal late summer conditions are present on both the Shannon Ridge trail and Sulphide Glacier area. Traversing beyond the “notch”, climbers will encounter snow at approximately 5800 feet. Rock campsites are available at the lower bivy sites, along with a composter toilet, which is fully melted out and available. The mixture in the lower composting toilet is getting wet, please try to pee on rocks and not in the composter. At the upper bivy site, climbers will find one dirt campsite and flat areas on snow to camp. The upper composter is melted out and available for use. When using the composting toilet, do not place blue bags or trash in the composting toilet. Beyond the camping area, the climbing route up the Sulphide Glacier is in good condition, with minimal crevasses showing and climbing parties descending the route reported good conditions. Standard glacier travel procedures are recommended if traveling above the camping area 
W. Tarantino/NPS Fisher Chimney's Route The Fisher Chimneys Route is in prime condition, there is still a little bit of water at the lower bivy sites at ~6000' (just below the start of the Chimneys), but it will be gone soon. The Chimneys themselves are dry. The Bivy sites below Winnie's Slide and at the White Salmon/Upper Curtis Col have melted out, though there is no easy access to water from the former so expect to melt snow. There are no composting toilets ath the bivy sites along the Fisher Chimeny's route, please bring blue bags and pack out human waste! 
A.Brun/NPS 
W. Tarantino/NPS 
W. Tarantino/NPS Remember that wilderness camping permits are required for any overnight use in North Cascades National Park. This includes the majority of bivy and camping areas for all routes on Mt. Shuksan. Contact noca_wilderness@nps.gov for more information. 
W. Tarantino/NPS Sulphide Glacier Route Summer weather has arrived to the North Cascades, but spring snow conditions persist in most alpine areas. The Shannon Ridge Trail first encounters snow at around 4200 feet and the snow cover becomes persistant by the time it reaches the ridge at around 4400 feet. Two-three tent platforms have melted out at both the upper and lower bivy sites, but neither of the toilets have emerged from the snow. PLEASE bring blue bags and pack out solid human waste! The Sulphide Glacier itself currently presents few crevasse hazards or navigational challenges. The Summit Pyramid Gully is about half melted out, so if you plan on ascending the gully beware of rotten, hollow snow and potential moat issues. Remember that rappel anchors and webbing may have degraded over the winter and be sure to double check all anchors in the gully before commiting! 
W. Tarantino/NPS
July 3, 2020 Sulphide Glacier Route Mt. Shuksan is still maintaining a low snowline, which begins close to 4600ft. The trail is difficult to follow as you ascend higher onto Shannon Ridge proper. Be aware that the Noth Cascades National Park boundary sign is still buried under snow. Due to the recent inclement weather, many parties have elected to camp at the "notch", which is the last saddle south of the toe of the Sulphide Glacier. The traditional lower (~6800') and upper bivy sites are still under snow. While previous parties have dug out a tent platforms, it is still recommended that parties come prepared with snow shovels if they plan to camp in these areas. Neither of the bivy sites' toliets have emerged from the snow so be sure to be prepared with blue bags and pack all solid human waste from the alpine. Navigation on the Sulphide Glacier is straighforward. 
A.Brun/NPS June 13, 2020
September 8, 2019 Sulphide Glacier Route Mt. Shuksan Shannon Ridge trail is in standard condition (mostly clear of downed logs, with roots and steep sections). Blueberries on Shannon Ridge are ripe! The standard approach is snow free until getting on the Sulphide Glacier. Above the lower Sulphide Glacier toilet / bivy area the Sulphide has sections of dry glacier. Strongly recommend roping up with standard glacier travel set up if traveling above the lower Sulphide Glacier bivy area. There are a number of snow camping options at the upper toilet / bivy area. Please remember to use the composting toilets and carry blue bags! Never know when you’re going to need to go. We found a number of TP blooms on the glacier. Water sources available near the beginning of the approach and just below the lower Sulphide bivy area. 
Shuksan via Sulphide Glacier Trail to Shannon Ridge and notch in good shape. Crevasses are beginning to appear between the lower and upper bivy sites on the Sulphide Glacier, these crevasses are easily navigated at this site, but beware! Plenty of water sources on the approach to the lower bivy site and at both the lower and upper bivy sites. If not camping at either the lower or upper bivy sites, please use blue bags. Some trash was noted in the upper bivy site composter, please do not place trash, wet wipes, or other objects in the composter. Beware, there are mice living in the upper composter, this is probably due to food. Also, an unattended climbing rope was found adjacent to the upper bivy site. Please do not abandon or “stash” equipment at the composters. This climbing rope was carried out by a climbing ranger and placed in the Park’s lost and found cache. From the upper bivy site, climbers will encounter bare ice and small crevasses on their ascent of the Sulphide Glacier to the summit pyramid. Climbers descending from the summit pyramid reported conditions were good. 
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Last updated: August 27, 2023