NPS/F. Preston Fisher Chimneys The Fisher Chimneys are in challenging late season conditions but still worth the effort during spells of good weather. Expect blue ice on Winnie's Slide for a pitch, and some steep snow and ice on Hell's Highway for more than a pitch. The summit pyramid is dry rock, but on shaded slopes there was remnant snow from last week's precipitation. If you are headed up after a weather event, expect new snow and ice at any and all elevations, as fall is here. 
T. Denison/NPS Sulphide Glacier The trail is entirely snow-free to the lower bivy area which has plentiful running water. The upper bivy area may have water in the afternoon but is unlikely to in the morning. There is much exposed rock and ice above the upper bivy area, and the route will almost certainly require travel on ice. The route currently crosses several open, visible crevasses before reaching the top of Hell's Highway. After this the route travels through a very crevassed area and uses several snow bridges, but some parties have rerouted to climber's right to avoid this area. There is no running water reported at the base of the summit pyramid. Please be aware that the toilet at the lower bivy is closed at this time. Plan on using blue bags for your climb. 
NPS/B. Bracken Sulphide Glacier The Sulphide Glacier is getting tricky as late season conditions warrant navigation around crevasses, walking on exposed glacier ice, and numerous managment styles. Please be aware that the toilet at the lower bivy is unusable at this time. Plan on using blue bags for your climb. 
NPS/J.Shields Fisher Chimneys The route is in good condition given this point in the season. No snow travel required until just above the chimneys. The lower camp below the chimneys has multiple dry bivy sites, but rangers were unable to find a water source nearby. Many dry bivy sites available below and above Winnie’s slide, both areas with a running water source. Winnie’s slide is steep snow with bucket steps. This section can quickly change to ice around this time of the year – make sure to have a plan to safely descend. Hell’s Highway starts off with glacier ice and transitions to steep snow midway. Please do not leave or rely on fixed pickets for pitching out this section. Large crevasses on the Upper Curtis and Sulphide Glaciers are opening up. The current boot pack travels on some weak snow bridges - be cautious of these suspect bridges especially during afternoon travel and with warming events. This route does require challenging glacier navigation. Rangers advise climbers to continually assess the terrain & conditions as the current boot pack may not be the safest route. 
NPS/J.Shields Sulphide Glacier Shuksan’s still looking fine. Almost no snow travel from the Shannon Ridge TH to the lower bivy sites. Rangers have been working hard on the lower composting toilet and it is still useable. Please only put solid human waste and toilet paper in the composter as any liquids will slow down the composting process. There are still multiple running water sources and dry bivy sites. If unable to find a dry bivy site, please camp on snow instead of creating more sites/wind walls. The upper bivy still has a running water source in the gully and the composting toilet is open. Expect to camp on snow – do not create new sites on the vegetation. There was a distinct boot pack on the Sulphide glacier leading from the bivy sites to the base of summit pyramid. The glacier is still in good shape with two crevasses that were avoided with the existing boot pack. Keep in mind that crevasses open up throughout the season and be aware of unsupportable snow bridges. The Center Gully still has one large snow patch which multiple parties were able to avoid on the ascent/descent. Due to multiple fire closures in the park, Shuksan has seen an influx of visitation. Many climbing parties have been ascending & descending summit pyramid at the same time with reports of rock fall. Consider climbing very early or later in the day to avoid traffic on the route. Also consider the rap anchors climber’s left of Center Gully to avoid descending onto other climbers (60m rope works for those existing anchors). 
T. Denison/NPS Sulphide Glacier Shuksan’s in fine form. The approach from Shannon Ridge TH is snow-free until just beyond the Notch. Getting to the lower bivy sites is a combination of traversing snow and rock. The lower bivy area has many dry bivy sites with multiple running water sources just below these sites. The composting toilet is accessible but is getting full. Climbers can still use the toilet, but please bring blue bags/wag bags in case it becomes completely full! If possible, please consider camping at the upper bivy area. The upper bivy area has 1 dry site (expect to camp on snow), a running water source in the gully, and the composting toilet is in great condition. Crevasses are becoming visible in the usual areas of the Sulphide Glacier route (above the first steep slope at ~7300', and just above Hell's Highway at ~7900') and the bootpack passes between them – climbers should consider snow bridge depth and snow consistency. The SE Rib itself is completely snow-free but a steep snow pitch must be climbed to access the Rib. The Central Gully has a large lingering patch of snow in the middle that can mostly be avoided; carrying snow gear to the summit for use on the descent may be useful. Using great rap anchors climber’s left of Center Gully avoids descending directly in fall line with ascending parties (60m rope works for all existing anchors). Rangers climbed the NE Ridge route of the summit pyramid and found it straightforward to descend onto the Crystal Glacier and attain the ridge; there are a few small crevasses to avoid. The rock was very loose 4th-class until the last 200ft of the climb, which presents a solid, clean face of low 5th-class leading almost to the summit. 
Fisher Chimneys Fisher Chimneys: The Chimneys are snow free, with a large moat guarding the first section. Do not rely on the most traveled path across the snow here, as the moats can change significantly each day. There are a multitude of dry tent sites above and below Winnie's slide. Water is available at the upper bivy sites, and about 100' below the lower bivys.
July 3, 2024 Fisher Chimneys Fisher Chimneys: The approach from the Lake Ann TH is a wet one – requiring much walking on slushy snow and flooded trail. The two transitions from flat snow field into the scrambling sections of the Chinneys are currently easy but very soon will form moats with precarious snowbridges. Once in the Chimneys proper all snow can be avoided by staying climber's left and opting for more 4th-class scrambling. There is steep strip of snow in the uppermost Chimney which is hollow underneath and hangs over a deep trench; this snow ramp is becoming discontinuous and there is bootpack evidence of a section having collapsed under a climber's weight – this snow section presents a serious hazard and should be approached cautiously and again can be avoided if preferred. There are two campsites suitable for 2-person tents melted out at the bivy area below Winnie's slide, but there is no running water available here. Water is available just above Winnie's Slide. Rangers found and packed out three blue bags of human waste left within ten feet of campsites, all chewed by rodents who then may run around on subsequent groups' food and equipment. This is absolutely unacceptable and disrespectful to the climbing community – all waste must be responsibly packed out. Some crevasses are becoming visible in the Upper Curtis and Sulphide Glaciers but are easily avoided. Hell's Highway has no exposed ice and a smooth top-out. The snow on 7/01 worsened to terrible slushy knee-deep postholing consistency above Hell's Highway but this should improve with warmer weather and clear nights. The Central Gully route appears to be entirely a snow climb still, but the SE Rib is getting close to a rock route – unfortunately rangers had very poor visibility on 7/01 and could not get an updated photo. 
T. Denison/NPS Sulphide Glacier Good news! The snow approaching and on Sulphide Glacier is condensing into a bootable summer consistency. In early afternoon in the sun near the bivy areas boot penetration was around 6". Patchy snow begins at ~4500' and continuous snow suitable for skiiing starts on Shannon Ridge at ~4800. No crevasses were visible looking up the route from the bivy areas, but rangers did not have time to proceed higher. Visitors reported some visibly opening but easily avoided. The summit pyramid appears to be melting quickly – the Central Gully route looks to be all snow still but the SE Rib may be approaching a rock climb. 
T. Denison/NPS Sulphide Glacier Sulphide Glacier: The road to Shannon Ridge TH has one washout passable to SUVs and maybe sedans. The trail is in generally fine shape with most downed trees cut; continuous snow starts at ~4400' from/to which skiing is possible. Snow up there is generally very slushy and not consolidated into summer snowpack yet. Even after refreezing overnight it will warm quickly – climbers should expect deep postholing and be alert for avalanche conditions and overhead hazards such as snow falling from cliffs and cornices failing. Expect no running water above the early trail switchbacks. Neither bivy area has dry sites, running water, or excavated toilets (probing at the coordinates of the lower toilet found a snow depth of 3.5 meters, so...gonna be a while). Climbers should be equipped for self-contained winter camping including packing out waste. Note that there is no longer a blue-bag dispenser at the trailhead. No crevasses are currently visible on the Sulphide route but the slushy snow makes for potentially weak snowbridges, and recent snow has covered cracks that had already begun opening. The summit pyramid is plastered – the central gully route appears to be entirely snow, while the SE Rib would be a 70/30 snow/rock mix. 
NPS/J.Shields Sulphide Glacier Route Climbing rangers are back at it, and no better way to kick off the season than a Shuksan ski patrol! Still lots of snow, with continuous snow coverage starting at ~4,000ft elevation (within the blow-down section of the approach trail). The temperatures certainly got warm out there and will continually stay high throughout the weekend. Watch out for wet avalanches & cornices as the shed cycle begins. We witnessed several avalanches and point releases in the afternoon. An area of concern on the standard approach is the traverse coming from "the notch" to the lower bivy sites - lots of residual snow above ready to slide with steep cliff sections below. Toilets are still buried underneath snow, bring your blue bags/wag bags for human waste. Upper and lower bivy sites are completly covered with snow as well. Expect to melt water. The road to Shannon Ridge trailhead is driveable, there is one creek wash-out ~1 mile from the trailhead that would be tricky for low-clearance vehicles.
Check out the links below for climbing condition blog posts from previous years: Climbing Conditions - Mt. Shuksan 2023 Climbing Conditions - Mt. Shuksan 2022 |
Last updated: May 7, 2025