Why is a climbing management plan needed?
Purpose of the PlanThe purpose of this plan is to guide the management of rock-based recreation activities for the protection of cultural resources, natural resources, and wilderness character, and to support the public’s desire to enjoy the park through climbing and related activities. ObjectivesThis plan would establish management actions related to rock climbing, bouldering, and related activities, in order to protect cultural and natural resources, comply with the Wilderness Act, and provide for a breadth of quality rock-based recreation experiences. Objectives include:
StoryMap for the Climbing Management PlanLearn more about the why the park is developing a climbing management plan, proposed actions, and more in this StoryMap. Climbing Style Categories and Style Categorization by Treatment AreaClimbing style categories would inform decision making on the installation or replacement of fixed anchors on routes in wilderness. In the menus below are descriptions of the climbing style categories and the proposed style categorizations for the North Astro Dome, South Astro Dome, and the Geo Tour treatment areas.
Defining Characteristics
None– No prohibited uses, no MRA required, entirely policy consistent, involves self-reliant and adventurous qualities that appear highly consistent with wilderness recreation values Example Climbs Invisibility Lessons
Defining Characteristics
Common Characteristics
MRA Concern Low – Involves infrequent prohibited uses requiring an MRA, policy consistent if justified by MRA, involves self-reliant and adventurous qualities that appear consistent with wilderness recreation values Example Climbs Bird of Fire Mental Physics
Defining Characteristics
MRA Concern Medium – Portions or all of the climb may be bolt dependent, requires MRA, not explicitly identified as inappropriate in wilderness in policy, but requires a case to be made that these are valuable recreation opportunities that are that are appropriate given the nature of Joshua Tree’s climbing formations, perhaps represent an important or “classic” style of climbing at Joshua Tree. Example Climbs Figures on a Landscape, North Astrodome The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics (non-wilderness example) Solid Gold (wilderness) Final Furious Farsi Dazed and Confused (Lenticular Dome) Walk on the Wild Side (non-wilderness) I Can’t Believe It’s a Girdle
Defining Characteristics
Common Characteristics
High – bolt dependent, bolt intensive, identified as inappropriate in wilderness in NPS policy. Example Climbs Yasmine Bleeth (Outer Mongolia Area) Ocean of Doubt (Ivory Tower) Bumpy (Split Dome) Potato Gun (Split Dome) Ionic Strength (Atom Smasher)
Toprope Anchors
Toprope anchors allow climbers to climb sections of rock without leading the climb, and therefore without the need to use intermediate protection. Toprope anchors may be constructed with slings around natural features, but in many cases Toprope anchors are comprised of two or more bolts, sometimes augmented with chains and rings to simplify the use of the anchor. Toprope anchors may have a singular purpose in allowing for the toproping of a section of rock, or they may have multiple purposes, such as for use as a rappel anchor or top anchor for a leadable climb. Generally, a top anchor on a leadable climb would be analyzed as part of a route according the Leadable Climbs matrix. Rappel Anchors Rappel anchors are used by climbers to descend from the tops of climbs or formations when a descent by walking or scrambling is not possible or practical. Like toprope anchors, rappel anchors may use natural features, but in many cases are comprised of two or more bolts, possibly augmented with chains or rings to simplify the use of the anchor. And rappel anchors may also be for the singular purpose of descent, or may also serve as toprope or top anchors on a leadable climb. Slackline and Highline Anchors A slackline is a suspended length of flat webbing that is tensioned between two anchors to allow for walking in balance across the slackline. A highline is simply a slackline suspended high above the ground; highliners will typically attach themselves to the suspended webbing with a harness and an additional length of webbing. Slacklines and highlines require rock features with clear spans in between the anchors, and such anchors are not typically used for other climbing purposes.
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Last updated: November 25, 2025