Now And Then: Ocean Beach

Ocean Beach, the five mile long stretch of shoreline south of the Cliff House, has been a destination for San Franciscans since the 1850s. Ocean Beach became even more popular with the advent of public transportation and new roads provided an easy way from downtown over the vast sand dunes that once covered the Richmond and Sunset Districts.

 

Left image
Credit: GGNRA Park Archives

Right image
Credit: Ted Barone, NPS

The "Gingerbread Palace" Burns - 1907

Despite visits by many dignitaries including Presidents McKinley and Teddy Roosevelt, the second Cliff House was criticized for its size and view-blocking proportions. It burned down just before it was to reopen after extensive renovations. A more modest third Cliff House was completed in 1909. It was shut down by the military in 1918 due to an executive order prohibiting alcohol sales within 1/2 mile of military installations. Except for one failed effort to reopen a "dry" Cliff House, it remained closed until it was purchased and reopened in 1938 by George and Leo Whitney, the owners of Playland-at-the-Beach.

 

Left image
Credit: GGNRA Park Archives

Right image
Credit: Ted Barone

Ocean Beach, Seal Rocks, Cliff House, and Sutro Heights - 1896

Adolph Sutro made his fortune in silver mining. He purchased the original Cliff House and surroundings in 1891. Over the next 17 years, he constructed the gardens at Sutro Heights, built Sutro Baths, rebuilt the Cliff House as a chateau-style palace, and instituted an inexpensive passenger railroad linking downtown San Francisco with the Pt. Lobos area. With the second industrial revolution, the average American worker had more leisure time. The iron Lurline Pier was built by the Olympic Club members to pump water to a saltwater pool at the club on Post Street between Mason and Taylor. It was demolished in 1967. The O'Shaughnessy Seawall was completed in 1928. At the depth of the Great Depression, Mayor Angelo Rossi led the restoration of Land's End. The Civil Works Administration planted about 10,000 trees.

 

Left image
Credit: GGNRA Park Archives

Right image
Credit: Ted Barone

Ocean Beach Pavilion - c. 1898

The Ocean Beach Pavilion, built in 1884, contained a giant ballroom that could hold 2,000 people at a time. The building had bars, restaurants, and a boxing gym that was once used by the first African-American heavyweight champion, Jack Johnson. Today, Sutro Heights looms above the old Pavilion and Playland-at-the-Beach sites. A volleyball game is set up in front of the graffiti-covered O'Shaughnessy seawall.

 

Left image
Credit: GGNRA Park Archives

Right image
Credit: Ted Barone

Great Highway and Ocean Beach - c. 1922

Playland-at-the-Beach and the old Ocean Beach Pavilion are on the left. Windmills built in 1902 to pump water for irrigation are visible in Golden Gate Park. A close look reveals sand dunes in the Sunset District. Today's view is from Sutro Heights.