Mount Fairweather

Mt. Fairweather

NPS Photo

Elevation: 15,325 ft.

Named in 1778 by Capt. Cook (1785, v.2, p.345), RN, presumably because of the good weather encountered at the time of his visit. The name has been variously translated. It was called "Mt. Beautemps" by La Perouse (1786, atlas), "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by Galiano (1802, map 3), "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on Russian Hydrog. Dept. Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Capt. Tebenkov (1852, map 7), IRN. It was called "Schonwetterberg" by Constantin Grewink in 1850 and "Schonwetter Berg" by Justus Perthes in 1882. The Tlingit name for the mountain is "Tsalxaan".

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Successful Summits

Date	Route	Climbers
6/8/1931	Carpe Ridge	Allen Carpe and Terris Moore
6/27/1958	Carpe Ridge	Paul Binkert, Fips Broda, Joe Hutton, and Walter Romanes (June 26) Paddy Sherman, David Blair, Dennis Moore, and Russell Yard (June 27) from the Canadian Centennial Expedition
7/12/1968	West Ridge	Loren Adkins, Walter Gove, Paul Meyhre, John Neal, and Kent Stokes
7/9/1973	Up the East Ridge, down the South Ridge	Dusan Jagersky, Greg Markov, and James Wickwire
7/10/1973	Southwest Ridge	Henry Florshultz, Toby O’Brien, Peter Metcalf, and Lincoln Stoller.
7/17/1975	South Southwest Ridge (Traverse Ridge)	Keith Echelmeyer, Steven Gaskill, and Steven Ruhle
7/20/1975	Carpe Ridge	Michael Berman, Darrell Brown, Chip Mehring, and Michael Ruckhaus
7/12/1976	Carpe Ridge	Harvard Mountaineering Club - David Coombs, John Z. Imbrie and George West
6/19/1977	West Ridge (upper part) via Grand Plateau Glacier	Walter Gove, Loren Adkins, Thomas Distler and George Fisher
7/20/1977	West Ridge (upper part) via Grand Plateau Glacier	Allen Beattie, Duke Greshook, and Greg Wagner
5/1981	Carpe Ridge	Donald Langlois, Jim Wilson, and Bill Staub
5/27/1981	Carpe Ridge	Gary Clark, Kim Grandfield, and Dave Lunn
6/23/1982	Carpe Ridge	Roe Mulder, Ton Hoeneveld, and Han Timmers
7/27/1982	West Ridge	Dick Sletten, Warren Wilder, and John McDonald
3/16/1984	West Ridge	Dave Pahlke, George Ferry, Richard Burton, Bruce Hickok, and Earl Redman
7/6/1986	Carpe Ridge	Chris Bretherton, Tad Pfeffer, and Linda Sugiyama
7/25/1986	Taylor Ridge	Fred Thiessen, Ellen Wood, Robert Brusse, Gordon Frank, Eric White and Grant McCormack (Second Canadian ascent of Fairweather and by a mainly Canadian route, and also the first ascent of Fairweather by a Canadian woman)
6/10/1905	Carpe Ridge	Jonathan Waterman and Nancy Pfieffer
6/12/1905	Carpe Ridge	Michael Down, Jim and Kevin Haberl, and Alastair Foremans
6/13/1905	West Ridge	Betsy Fletcher, Craig Hollinger, Markus Kellerhals, Peter Stone, and David Williams
6/13/1905	West Ridge	Conrad Baumgartner, Alan Massin, and Steve Bertollo
5/21/1992	Carpe Ridge	Scot Alex McPherson, Adriano Petrachi, John Thompson, and Keith Carter
5/19/1993	Southeast Ridge	Scott Dinham and Dan Evans
5/11/1994	West Ridge	Patrick Flanagan, Dan Stevenson, and Paul Hodgdon
6/11/1994	Carpe Ridge	Mike Daniel and Paul Netzband (Adam Rosenthal and Stan Drdla were a part of the party but turned around due to acute mountain sickness)
4/25/1995	Southeast Ridge	Joe Lackey and Paul Kallmes
5/25/1995	Col between West Peak and Fairweather from Grand Plateau Glacier	Dean James, Ian Berry, Andrew Allerton and Scott Darsney
6/14/1995	West Ridge	Jack Bennett, Dan Bennett and Tom Bennett
4/30/1996	Unknown	Dave Braun, Tyson Bradely, and Shannon Walsh (first Ski Descent)
5/1997	West Ridge	According to the Annual Mountaineering Report for the 1997 Season, five climbers made a successful ascent (Glacier Bay NP/P Annual Mountaineering Report)
3/12/1998	Carpe Ridge (Winter Ascent)	Nancy Juergens and Joe Reichert (Jeff Carter and Josephine Warden were a part of the party but did not summit)
5/19/1998	Southeast Ridge	Scott Dinham and Dan Evans
6/22/1905	Grand Plateau Glacier via Glacier Bay along the Grand Pacific Glacier	Mark Jefferson and Michael Dziobak left Gustavus in two double kayaks for an ascent of Mount Fairweather
5/2004	West Ridge	Alaskan Mountain Guides, party of four
5/12/2004	Unknown	Dave Hart, Todd Berry, Carolyn Berry, Wayne Todd, Joris and Wycze
6/27/1905	Carpe Ridge	Max Schillinger and Felipe Shillinger (Fly Drake Inc)
5/2005	West Ridge	Alaska Mountain Guides, party of four; Chris Haaland, Tim Haag, Bob Wood
5/2006	Grand Plateau	David Henry, Normand Begin, Manfred Czechak, Danielle Tardif, Jonathan Stanley, and David Mulligan
6/28/1905	Unknown	Ryan Bougie (who after summiting, skied down to Dry Bay and continued on to Yakutat)
6/28/1905	Taylor Ridge	David Hughes and Peter Gumplinger (British Columbia Mountaineering Club 100 year Anniversary Climb)
5/2009	West Ridge via Grand Plateau Glacier	James Colridge and Len Vanderstar of Summits of Canada
5/16/2010	West Ridge	Wayne Herrick and Kurt Wibbenmeyer of the Colorado Mountain Club Expedition (Dave Covill, Gerry Roach, Bill Blazek, Mike Butyn, Jim Rickard led by Rich McAdams, turned around at 13,400ft)
5/29/2011	West Ridge	Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides and four clients (Alaska Mountain Guides)
5/29/2011	West Ridge	Patrick Farrell and Caroline Van Hemert skied to Dry Bay after summit and hiked the coast back to Gustavus
5/29/2011	West Ridge	Dave Covill, Chris Kopczynski, Greg Long, John Martersteck, Debbie Markham, and Gerry Roach

Summit Attempts

Date	Route	Climbers	Cited Reason
1926	West Ridge	Allen Carpe and William S. Ladd	Weather, landed at Sea Otter and got to over 9000 ft.
6/1970	Unknown	Susumu Kosaka, Yoshikazu Sakai, Kunio Kanno, Shuji Fukamizu, and Kenji Nishi	Weather
6/1977	Unknown	John H. Olson, Jerome Eberharter, Steve Doty, Gregg Foster, Reese Martin and Steve Pollock	Unknown
1978	Southeast Ridge	Leonard Cook, Mark Fields, Rich Bloom and Chris Carpenter	Weather
1991	West Ridge	Loren Adkins and Walter Gove	Unknown
1991	Carpe Ridge	Kaj Bune, Doug Barlow, Mark Dale, and Silas Wild	Unknown
1992	Carpe Ridge	Joe Carriveal and Bill Mickel	Weather
1992	West Ridge	Tom Nickerson, Dave Baratt, Steve Wheeler, and Vince Radice	Weather
1996	Southeast Ridge	Steven Griffin and Don Graber	Weather (Glacier Bay NP/P Annual Mountaineering Report)
4/1997	South Face/Ridge	Tim Kelley and Seth Koch	Injuries
1998	Carpe Ridge/South Ridge	Justin Davis, Chris Hooyman	Unknown
4/1999	Kayaked from Hoonah to Margerie Glacier	Fed Touche and Ivan Bandic	Weather
5/4/2002	Unknown	Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides/three clients	Flew into 10,000, reached 13,800, and turned back due to an impassable crevasse (Park Concessions records)
3/2004	Kayaked from Prince Rupert to just south of Lituya Bay	Fredric Dion and Etienne St. Arnaud	Major route finding and deglaciation
5/2004	Carpe Ridge	Louis Sass, Bryn Clark, Katie Snell, and Victor Pusca	Weather (personal account)
5/2005	West Ridge	Gerry Roach, Greg Griffith, Jobe Wymore	Unknown; turned at 13,200 ft.
3/1/2006	Carpe Ridge	Alaska Mountain Guides, one guide/two clients	Weather (Park Concessions records)
5/1/2006	Standard route via the North Col.	Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides/four clients	Weather (Park Concessions records)
2007	Unknown	Alaska Mountain Guides	Spent 7 days waiting in Haines due to weather, did not end up climbing (Park Concessions records)
5/2007	East Ridge	Louis Sass, Bryn Clark, Liz Hardwick, and Roger Yim	Flew into plateau on the north side around 9800 ft. with good weather and reached 12,800 ft. Found loose rock afterwards (personal account)
5/2008	West Ridge	Alaska Mountain Guides	Turned around at 14,000 ft. (Alaska Mountain Guides)
6/2008	West Ridge	Dave Covill, Edward Earl and Greg Slayden	Turned back at 13,000 ft.
6/2008	West Ridge	Paul Fish , Jeff Johnson and Chris Kopczynski	Turned back at 13,200 ft.
5/2009	West Ridge	Erik Johnson and Ben Higdon	Tried summiting three times, high avalanche danger and wind
5/2010	West Ridge	Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides with four clients	Unknown