Mount Fairweather

Snowy peak with drifts standing above surrounding mountains
Mt. Fairweather

NPS Photo

Elevation: 15,325 ft.


Named in 1778 by Capt. Cook (1785, v.2, p.345), RN, presumably because of the good weather encountered at the time of his visit. The name has been variously translated. It was called "Mt. Beautemps" by La Perouse (1786, atlas), "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by Galiano (1802, map 3), "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on Russian Hydrog. Dept. Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Capt. Tebenkov (1852, map 7), IRN. It was called "Schonwetterberg" by Constantin Grewink in 1850 and "Schonwetter Berg" by Justus Perthes in 1882. The Tlingit Indians' name for the mountain is reportedly "Tanaku".
Date Route Climbers

6/8/1931

Carpe Ridge

Allen Carpe and Terris Moore

6/27/1958

Carpe Ridge

Paul Binkert, Fips Broda, Joe Hutton, and Walter Romanes (June 26) Paddy Sherman, David Blair, Dennis Moore, and Russell Yard (June 27) from the Canadian Centennial Expedition

7/12/1968

West Ridge

Loren Adkins, Walter Gove, Paul Meyhre, John Neal, and Kent Stokes

7/9/1973

Up the East Ridge, down the South Ridge

Dusan Jagersky, Greg Markov, and James Wickwire

7/10/1973

Southwest Ridge

Henry Florshultz, Toby O’Brien, Peter Metcalf, and Lincoln Stoller.

7/17/1975

South Southwest Ridge (Traverse Ridge)

Keith Echelmeyer, Steven Gaskill, and Steven Ruhle

7/20/1975

Carpe Ridge

Michael Berman, Darrell Brown, Chip Mehring, and Michael Ruckhaus

7/12/1976

Carpe Ridge

Harvard Mountaineering Club - David Coombs, John Z. Imbrie and George West

6/19/1977

West Ridge (upper part) via Grand Plateau Glacier

Walter Gove, Loren Adkins, Thomas Distler and George Fisher

7/20/1977

West Ridge (upper part) via Grand Plateau Glacier

Allen Beattie, Duke Greshook, and Greg Wagner

5/1981

Carpe Ridge

Donald Langlois, Jim Wilson, and Bill Staub

5/27/1981

Carpe Ridge

Gary Clark, Kim Grandfield, and Dave Lunn

6/23/1982

Carpe Ridge

Roe Mulder, Ton Hoeneveld, and Han Timmers

7/27/1982

West Ridge

Dick Sletten, Warren Wilder, and John McDonald

3/16/1984

West Ridge

Dave Pahlke, George Ferry, Richard Burton, Bruce Hickok, and Earl Redman

7/6/1986

Carpe Ridge

Chris Bretherton, Tad Pfeffer, and Linda Sugiyama

7/25/1986

Taylor Ridge

Fred Thiessen, Ellen Wood, Robert Brusse, Gordon Frank, Eric White and Grant McCormack (Second Canadian ascent of Fairweather and by a mainly Canadian route, and also the first ascent of Fairweather by a Canadian woman)

6/10/1905

Carpe Ridge

Jonathan Waterman and Nancy Pfieffer

6/12/1905

Carpe Ridge

Michael Down, Jim and Kevin Haberl, and Alastair Foremans

6/13/1905

West Ridge

Betsy Fletcher, Craig Hollinger, Markus Kellerhals, Peter Stone, and David Williams

6/13/1905

West Ridge

Conrad Baumgartner, Alan Massin, and Steve Bertollo

5/21/1992

Carpe Ridge

Scot Alex McPherson, Adriano Petrachi, John Thompson, and Keith Carter

5/19/1993

Southeast Ridge

Scott Dinham and Dan Evans

5/11/1994

West Ridge

Patrick Flanagan, Dan Stevenson, and Paul Hodgdon

6/11/1994

Carpe Ridge

Mike Daniel and Paul Netzband (Adam Rosenthal and Stan Drdla were a part of the party but turned around due to acute mountain sickness)

4/25/1995

Southeast Ridge

Joe Lackey and Paul Kallmes

5/25/1995

Col between West Peak and Fairweather from Grand Plateau Glacier

Dean James, Ian Berry, Andrew Allerton and Scott Darsney

6/14/1995

West Ridge

Jack Bennett, Dan Bennett and Tom Bennett

4/30/1996

Unknown

Dave Braun, Tyson Bradely, and Shannon Walsh (first Ski Descent)

5/1997

West Ridge

According to the Annual Mountaineering Report for the 1997 Season, five climbers made a successful ascent (Glacier Bay NP/P Annual Mountaineering Report)

3/12/1998

Carpe Ridge (Winter Ascent)

Nancy Juergens and Joe Reichert (Jeff Carter and Josephine Warden were a part of the party but did not summit)

5/19/1998

Southeast Ridge

Scott Dinham and Dan Evans

6/22/1905

Grand Plateau Glacier via Glacier Bay along the Grand Pacific Glacier

Mark Jefferson and Michael Dziobak left Gustavus in two double kayaks for an ascent of Mount Fairweather

5/2004

West Ridge

Alaskan Mountain Guides, party of four

5/12/2004

Unknown

Dave Hart, Todd Berry, Carolyn Berry, Wayne Todd, Joris and Wycze

6/27/1905

Carpe Ridge

Max Schillinger and Felipe Shillinger (Fly Drake Inc)

5/2005

West Ridge

Alaska Mountain Guides, party of four; Chris Haaland, Tim Haag, Bob Wood

5/2006

Grand Plateau

David Henry, Normand Begin, Manfred Czechak, Danielle Tardif, Jonathan Stanley, and David Mulligan

6/28/1905

Unknown

Ryan Bougie (who after summiting, skied down to Dry Bay and continued on to Yakutat)

6/28/1905

Taylor Ridge

David Hughes and Peter Gumplinger (British Columbia Mountaineering Club 100 year Anniversary Climb)

5/2009

West Ridge via Grand Plateau Glacier

James Colridge and Len Vanderstar of Summits of Canada

5/16/2010

West Ridge

Wayne Herrick and Kurt Wibbenmeyer of the Colorado Mountain Club Expedition (Dave Covill, Gerry Roach, Bill Blazek, Mike Butyn, Jim Rickard led by Rich McAdams, turned around at 13,400ft)

5/29/2011

West Ridge

Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides and four clients (Alaska Mountain Guides)

5/29/2011

West Ridge

Patrick Farrell and Caroline Van Hemert skied to Dry Bay after summit and hiked the coast back to Gustavus

5/29/2011

West Ridge

Dave Covill, Chris Kopczynski, Greg Long, John Martersteck, Debbie Markham, and Gerry Roach

Date Route Climbers Cited Reason
1926 West Ridge Allen Carpe and William S. Ladd Weather, landed at Sea Otter and got to over 9000 ft.
6/1970 Unknown Susumu Kosaka, Yoshikazu Sakai, Kunio Kanno, Shuji Fukamizu, and Kenji Nishi Weather
6/1977 Unknown John H. Olson, Jerome Eberharter, Steve Doty, Gregg Foster, Reese Martin and Steve Pollock Unknown
1978 Southeast Ridge Leonard Cook, Mark Fields, Rich Bloom and Chris Carpenter Weather
1991 West Ridge Loren Adkins and Walter Gove Unknown
1991 Carpe Ridge Kaj Bune, Doug Barlow, Mark Dale, and Silas Wild Unknown
1992 Carpe Ridge Joe Carriveal and Bill Mickel Weather
1992 West Ridge Tom Nickerson, Dave Baratt, Steve Wheeler, and Vince Radice Weather
1996 Southeast Ridge Steven Griffin and Don Graber Weather (Glacier Bay NP/P Annual Mountaineering Report)
4/1997 South Face/Ridge Tim Kelley and Seth Koch Injuries
1998 Carpe Ridge/South Ridge Justin Davis, Chris Hooyman Unknown
4/1999 Kayaked from Hoonah to Margerie Glacier Fed Touche and Ivan Bandic Weather
5/4/2002 Unknown Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides/three clients Flew into 10,000, reached 13,800, and turned back due to an impassable crevasse (Park Concessions records)
3/2004 Kayaked from Prince Rupert to just south of Lituya Bay Fredric Dion and Etienne St. Arnaud Major route finding and deglaciation
5/2004 Carpe Ridge Louis Sass, Bryn Clark, Katie Snell, and Victor Pusca Weather (personal account)
5/2005 West Ridge Gerry Roach, Greg Griffith, Jobe Wymore Unknown; turned at 13,200 ft.
3/1/2006 Carpe Ridge Alaska Mountain Guides, one guide/two clients Weather (Park Concessions records)
5/1/2006 Standard route via the North Col. Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides/four clients Weather (Park Concessions records)
2007 Unknown Alaska Mountain Guides Spent 7 days waiting in Haines due to weather, did not end up climbing (Park Concessions records)
5/2007 East Ridge Louis Sass, Bryn Clark, Liz Hardwick, and Roger Yim Flew into plateau on the north side around 9800 ft. with good weather and reached 12,800 ft. Found loose rock afterwards (personal account)
5/2008 West Ridge Alaska Mountain Guides Turned around at 14,000 ft. (Alaska Mountain Guides)
6/2008 West Ridge Dave Covill, Edward Earl and Greg Slayden Turned back at 13,000 ft.
6/2008 West Ridge Paul Fish , Jeff Johnson and Chris Kopczynski Turned back at 13,200 ft.
5/2009 West Ridge Erik Johnson and Ben Higdon Tried summiting three times, high avalanche danger and wind
5/2010 West Ridge Alaska Mountain Guides, two guides with four clients Unknown

Last updated: December 18, 2018

Contact the Park

Mailing Address:

Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve
PO Box 140

Gustavus, AK 99826

Phone:

(907) 697-2230

Contact Us