Rock Climbing

Wilderness Regulations Apply for Climbing

All wilderness regulations, including a valid wilderness use permit, apply towards rock climbing. Know before you go!

 

Rock climbing at Black Canyon is not recommended for beginners.

NPS/Lisa Lynch

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers vast opportunities to expert rock climbers. The canyon is extremely deep and narrow. At its deepest, the canyon is 2,722 ft (830 m) deep at Warner Point. The Painted Wall is the tallest vertical wall in Colorado, with a height of 2,250 ft (686 m) The majority of the climbing activity takes place around North and South Chasm Walls, where the canyon is 1,820 ft (555 m) deep.

Routes

Black Canyon is a full-on adventure climbing area. Detailed climbing information for Black Canyon climbs is often difficult to obtain or non-existent. A few guidebooks are available and the National Park Service retains copies of topos and route information turned in by first ascent parties. Visit the South Rim Visitor Center or North Rim Ranger Station for information.

Of the 145 climbing routes that are found in Black Canyon:

• 8 are rated at 5.8; only 4 of these have good information available and see regular ascents
• 21 are rated 5.9, 5 of which are aid routes, and only 6 of which see any significant climbing activity
• The other 117 climbs have ratings between 5.10 and 5.13 and many require aid.

Many climbers have said that the ratings here can be deceiving.

Annual Climbing Route Closures

For the protection of nesting raptors, certain routes are closed from March 15 to July 15.

 

Climbing Safely

All of the climbs within Black Canyon are multi-pitch, traditional routes located in remote areas within the canyon. Climbing routes in the park are very deceiving. There can be clean cracks and excellent lines, followed by choss and places where it is easy to get off route. Loose rock is extreme. Be sure of your holds before you commit. Climbing under other parties brings the danger of being in the firing line of falling rock and gear. Always wear a helmet.

Minimize Risk

• Carrying enough gear to stay out overnight if needed
• Carrying the necessary equipment to endure an unexpected bivy
• Climbing within your ability level, especially if you are new to climbing in the Black Canyon
• Be willing to back off or bail if necessary.
• Know your own abilities and that of your partners.

Rescues

Rescues in Black Canyon are very involved. Lowering off to an awaiting ambulance is not an option. The park has rangers trained in high angle rescue, but rescues take time and are extremely technical in nature. Be prepared for self-rescue. Underestimating a route is not cause for rescue at the Black Canyon. The National Park Service does not guarantee rescue.

 

Maiden Voyage, one of the most climbed routes in Black Canyon

Photo by Julia Gavilondo

Climbing Regulations

Obtain a wilderness permit and follow wilderness regulations. Climbers must practice Leave No Trace climbing with these climbing-specific regulations:

• Use “clean climbing” techniques and gear that can be removed (e.g., slings, cams, nuts, chocks, and stoppers).
• Do not mark approach trails with cairns or anything else.
• If fixed equipment is unsafe, replacement (anchor for anchor) is allowed without further authorization. Bolts, hangers and chains must be painted the color of the rock surface. If replacing worn webbing, use a natural color.
• Placing of new permanent fixed equipment requires preapproval.
• The physical altering of rock faces by chiseling, glue reinforcement of existing holds, gluing of new holds, and the intentional removal of lichen or plants from rock are prohibited.
• A fixed rope may be left in place for no more than 14 days, while the climbing party is in the park.
• Climbing gear may be cached for less than 24 hours (do not leave food!).
• Use a personal human waste pack out system, such as Rest Stop.
• BASE jumping is prohibited.
• Highlines / slacklines: shall not be used in designated campgrounds; shall not be attached to vegetation or park property; shall not be left unattended; and shall be entirely removable. Highlines / slacklines that span any portion of the canyon or would reasonably be expected to affect the normal operations of the park require a special use permit.

New Fixed Equipment and Route Development

Please review the authorization process for new route development with fixed anchors and replacement of fixed anchors in Chapter 4 of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park/Curecanti National Recreation Area Wilderness and Backcountry Management Plan.

To inquire about placing new permanent fixed equipment or obtaining a special use permit, email (link below) the following information to us:

• Applicant name
• Address
• Contact phone number
• Location of the proposed new fixed equipment
• Brief description of why the applicant feels fixed equipment is warranted at the proposed site.

Seasonal Information

Peak climbing season at the Black Canyon begins in mid-April and runs through the early part of June, and from mid-September through early November. Environmental hazards found at the park during these time periods include frequent afternoon thunder showers, fully leafed out poison ivy, and approach gullies inhabited by ticks.

North Rim Climbing Routes: In addition to a permit, the North Rim Ranger Station has a whiteboard that is used as an informal way of letting other climbers know who is on what route. It prevents multiple parties from piling up on routes and is a quick way to judge climber activity in the canyon.