Before World War Two

Building Roosevelt Dam, Circa 1909

NPS Photo

Population Growth in the Southwest

Four years after Bandelier's visit, Arizona's population grew quickly. People arrived by wagon trains and trail rides. The Southern Pacific Railroad reached Phoenix in 1887. Businesses and businesses soon followed. By 1900, Phoenix had 5,554 residents. which made farming, water, and flood control in the Southwest challenging. This resulted in a series of events that would have big effects on the cliff houses and their future.

Water and the Roosevelt Dam

Phoenix experienced severe floods. The Salt River overwhelmed weak dams. Water storage and control were insufficient. The Salt River Water Users group was formed. They, along with other state and territorial groups, urged Congress to act. In 1902, President Theodore Roosevelt signed the National Reclamation Act. This authorized damming western rivers. The Bureau of Reclamation was created. Arizona Territory was chosen for the first dam. By 1903, plans were made to build Theodore Roosevelt Dam. It would be built where Tonto Creek meets the Salt River.
Located just four miles from the construction site, the cliff dwellings felt the impact. Workers, their families, and sightseers began exploring the cliff dwellings. Rare photos of this period show change in the dwelling's conditions through the early 20th century.

Tonto National Monument's early years

The cliff structures are a mere four miles from where the dam was being built. Workers, along with their families and guests, started to investigate these sites. Uncommon photographs from this era depict the transformations occurring at these dwellings. This phenomenon was evident across the southwestern region of the United States. The American Antiquities Act of 1906 ended the theft of historical sites. This permitted the president to create monuments of importance both spontaneously and culturally.

Roosevelt Dam and the Apache Trail attracted people towards the Tonto cliff dwellings. Leading to concerns for their future. Placed under the U.S Forest Service, President Theodore Roosevelt issued Proclamation 787. Creating the Tonto National Monument along with four hundred and eighty acres. This is where both Lower and Upper Cliff Dwellings are today.

 

Stone Caretaker's House, Circa 1929

NPS Photo

Southern Pacific Railroad

In 1911, the Roosevelt Dam was finally built. Arizona became a state in 1912. Later, the Southern Pacific Railroad created a hotel near the dam and was offering tours. Tonto National Monument was one of their highlights on the Apache Trail Tour.

In 1929, the US Forest Service and Southern Pacific made a road to a large parking area at the mouth of Cholla Canyon. This is where the current picnic area is located. A pit toilet was dug, and a 1-mile trail was cut to the Lower Cliff Dwelling. Ray Stevens was hired as caretaker and was paid $30 a month to serve as the first maintenance person and tour guide.

By 1932, the Tonto National Monument had become a popular tourist destination. The Southern Pacific extended the dirt road to where the current parking lot is and built a stone caretaker's house.

Then, became a popular tourist destination. Southern Pacific built a new road to where the current parking lot is and a stone caretaker's house. For thirty years, this served as the Monument's Headquarters, Visitor Center, and Museum. Chain link fences were installed and locked at night to control access to the dwellings. Fences helped, but didn't stop everyone from entering unsafe areas made by cliff dwellings. The Dwellings got damaged in the 1920's and early 1930's than during the previous 600 years. By 1932, Phoenix's population had grown to 48,000. New roads allowed automobiles throughout central Arizona. An estimated 100 people a month were climbing through these cliff dwellings.

National Park Service's early history at Tonto

The official history of Tonto National Monument dates from 1907. But the period of protection and preservation began in July 1933. Started with the U.S. Forest Service, to the Department of the Interior: National Park Service.

Charlie Steen was the first National Park Ranger assigned to Tonto. In 1934, Steen was assigned to spend time at many newly established monuments.

Rangers in this remote area lived in tent houses and drew water from the local spring. Flooding, scorpions, rattlesnakes, and hard work were part of the daily routine. As primitive as the conditions were, Steen and the rangers who followed persisted. The road improved, and a trail was created that went from the parking lot to the cliff dwellings. Archeological and biological studies were initiated to better understand the cliff dwellings and the surrounding environment. A park ranger could now be present at the cliff dwellings to inform visitors of the Monument's archeological value and protect what remained of the fragile structures.

Gila Pueblo Archeological Center sampled the timbers in the dwellings for dating purposes. Dendrochronology, or tree ring dating, is a method of using growth rings on trees. Used as a calendar to date archaeological sites.

The first sign of how many people were visiting came in September 1935. Steen reported 305 people for the month. Read Steen's Monthly Reports.

In 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt added 480 acres to the Monument. 70 archeological sites discovered on the now 1120-acre preserve.

 

Visitors and Park Ranger at Lower Cliff Dwelling, Circa 1941

NPS Photo

Preservation and Visitor Services

Rangers set up facilities and trails. William Duffen excavated and stabilized the Lower Cliff Dwelling. He was a graduate student at the University of Arizona.

In 1938, more than 5,000 visitors came to Tonto National Monument. Infrastructure was basic at the time, and rangers made do with what they had or what they could borrow. By today's standards, ranger housing was little more than camping out.

In 1960, Steen reports on Cliff Dwelling architecture and artifacts. The Civilian Conservation Corps Navajo “Mobile Unit,” stabilized each wall. They also developed a new paved trail to the Dwellings.