Rock Climbing

A rock climber scales a nearly vertical cliff face
A climber on one of the more challenging routes on Moro Rock.

Photo courtesy of Daniel Jeffcoach

 

Annual Rock Climbing Closures

Moro Rock climbing closures for the 2017 season began on April 1 and will remain in effect until August 15, depending on nesting activity. These closures protect peregrine falcons as they nest and raise their young.

On April 21, closure area was reduced to a smaller size. Because the South Face route is not within sight of nesting peregrine falcons, it has been reopened. Currently, the closed routes include The Couch Trip, Full Metal Jacket, and all routes between them.

Peregrine falcons nested on Moro Rock historically, but then disappeared when they neared extinction due to DDT. When use of DDT stopped in this country, populations of these falcons and other birds began to rebound. Peregrines can once again be seen in these parks. Falcons can be very sensitive to human activity in their nest area and may abandon it if disturbed. Nest sites are monitored to gather current information on use and to ensure prompt re-opening of these areas. Closures are subject to change based on current nesting status.

The closures are made by order of the Superintendent of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks under authority of Title 36, Code of Federal Regulations, Section 1.5(a) and Section (a)(1).

By respecting closures, you play an active role in the conservation of these amazing birds. We appreciate your support.

 

Outstanding Climbing

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks are a great place to climb. The rock here is similar to Yosemite in quality. One can enjoy an endless variety of climbs from easy to extremely challenging-without the crowds and pressure of more famous climbing areas. Outstanding routes in the parks include the Obelisk and Grand Sentinel. Most climbs require at least a day's hike in.

In nearby Hume Lake District of Sequoia National Forest, Chimney Rock is one climbing destination. Like Moro Rock, it closes during nesting season for peregrine falcons.

Protected wilderness
Remember that the rock here is an integral part of a larger ecosystem. Like the rest of the parks, it is protected as wilderness for people to enjoy in a natural state that preserves it intact for future generations of climbers. This means no motors (for example, motorized drills). Respect closures. On your approach, stick to trails. Climb clean. The placement or replacement of permanent fixed anchors, eg., bolts, pitons, etc., requires an approved special use permit (SUP). Permission to place or replace permanent fixed anchors may be granted by the superintendent, after a formal written request is submitted and evaluated.

Kings Canyon climbs
A good place to look for climbs is along Bubbs Creek. On the north side of the Bubbs Creek Trail, just before it crosses Charlotte Creek, are Charlito Dome and Charlotte Dome. The hike in is about 8 miles, but the multi-pitch possibilities are worth the haul.

Sequoia climbs
The easiest site to access in Sequoia is Moro Rock, just off the Generals Highway near Giant Forest. The west face offers 1,000 vertical feet of cracks and knobs. For a more remote climb, hike the High Sierra Trail to Angel Wings. At roughly 2,000 feet, this is one of the park's biggest walls. It's an 18-mile hike from Crescent Meadow. Other Sequoia highlights: Little Baldy and Big Baldy, both off the Generals Highway.

What you can do

  1. Climb safely! Rescues endanger rescuers' lives, are expensive, and cause a lot of impact.
  2. Know park rules and the principles of Leave No Trace. Stick to trails. Climb clean. Respect the wilderness character of the parks.
  3. If you see climbers who are not following these principles, talk to them. Explain how they can minimize their impact and why it is important that they do so.
  4. Clean up after others. Leave the rock better than you found it.
  5. Respect closures. For example, Moro Rock (in Sequoia National Park) and Chimney Rock (in Sequoia National Forest) are closed during peregrine falcon nesting season.

Contact the Park

Mailing Address:

47050 Generals Highway
Three Rivers, CA 93271

Phone:

(559) 565-3341

Contact Us