Chapter Six:
Colonel John White and Preservation in Sequoia National Park (1931-1947)
(continued)
Into the Backcountry: The Threat of Roads
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Although backcountry management usually ranked low on
the list of priorities in Colonel White's park, there was one topic over
which the Park Service and the public had widely varying and deeply held
beliefsthe matter of road access. During the first four decades of
Sequoia National Park many roads were discussed, but few could be
afforded. Hence, the Generals Highway remained the Service's major
commitment. However, by the late 1920s, several other projects had been
proposed by enthusiastic businessmen in the San Joaquin and Owens
valleys. The largest, most expensive, and potentially most threatening
of those projects was known as the Sierra Nevada National Parks Highway,
or "The Sierra Way." It would have been one of the great mountain
highways of the world both from engineering and scenic standpoints.
However, it ran into a Park Service and a superintendent, John White,
who had come to believe that preservation of roadless areas was a moral
responsibility.
Sequoia had just been enlarged to include Mt. Whitney
and Kern Canyon when, in January 1927, an association of businessmen,
city and county officials, engineers, and others from the San Joaquin
Valley formed to promote a road from Lake Isabella in Kern County to
Yosemite National Park. The Generals Highway portion from Sequoia to
General Grant, still in the planning stages, would compose a portion of
the highway. By 1931 the scheme had been expanded to include Lassen
Volcanic National Park and Mt. Shasta. Later, Colonel White speculated
that it was the Generals Highway connection between his two parks that
had suggested the whole road. The highway would maintain an elevation of
6,000 feet or more nearly all the route and handle traffic at speeds
averaging forty miles per hour. Most of the road would pass through
federal lands, four national parks and a half dozen national forests,
but seven counties also joined in the project. [45]
Initially Park Service response to the project was
mixed. Although the road in general seemed a worthy idea, portions of it
bothered Director Mather. Chief among those troublesome sections was the
piece running from Giant Forest to the southern boundary of Sequoia. The
earliest plans from the San Joaquin Valley suggested a route along Kern
Canyon which Mather had envisioned for some time as a permanently
roadless area. In response to his objections road planners shifted the
route to one that brought the road through Hockett Meadow, over Tar Gap
to Mineral King, then over Paradise Ridge to Redwood Meadow. From there
the road was planned to veer westward and link with the Generals Highway
near the Sherman Tree. Colonel White initially favored this route
because it would provide a new destination and relieve Giant Forest. As
an added benefit it would allow easy penetration of much of the park's
backcountry for fire control. However, his attitude toward the entire
Sierra Way project changed as his preservationist philosophy deepened.
By 1932, White was one of the project's most powerful opponents, at
least insofar as it affected his park.
From 1928 to 1931, the Sierra Nevada National Parks
Highway Association continued to meet and plan. Existing roads were
incorporated into the plan while engineers commenced construction of
other portions. A few spots, particularly those associated with national
parks, remained sources of contention, including the route out of the
southeast corner of Lassen and the segment from Yosemite Valley to the
north boundary of that park. However, by far the most acrimonious debate
centered on the southern part of Sequoia. [46]
Colonel White had many friends among the backers of
the project and their support was necessary to Sequoia and General Grant
parks, as well as for ambitious designs like the creation of a huge new
Kings Canyon park. Thus, the superintendent urged the Park Service to
support the larger project in principle, but with a route that would
cross into the park over Farewell Gap to Mineral King and then follow
the Mineral King Road to Three Rivers and link with the Generals Highway
at Ash Mountain. This route strayed widely from the alpine nature of the
proposed project but still linked the parks in the overall project. In
1931 the Park Service financed a survey of the potential routes to
answer mounting pressure and criticism from the Valley. Engineer W.P.
Webber concluded that the so-called "high route" over Paradise Ridge was
undesirable largely due to construction difficulty and cost. The
combination of this negative report and the deepening Depression served
to table the project for several years. [47]
In late 1934, with CCC labor and funds available and
economic hope springing from the Roosevelt administration's sweeping
reforms, the Sierra Way issue arose once again. Led by valuable park
allies like Fresno lawyer Chester Warlow, the highway association
convinced the Forest Service, the California legislature, and many local
governments to push the project, including the "high route" in Sequoia.
In the evolving attitude of the Park Service, however, the concept of
roadless wilderness had been enjoying ever-increasing popularity. In
part this arose from rapidly amassing evidence of scenic disruption by
auto traffic in the accessible portions of parks like Sequoia. In part
it arose from strong statements by groups like the Sierra Club and the
Commonwealth Club in opposition to mountain roads. [48] And in part it arose from the success of
trails like the High Sierra Trail and evidence of public need for
wilderness areas. In sum, these attitudes erased nearly every vestige of
support for the Redwood MeadowParadise Ridge route among Park
Service planners. Even old road engineers like Frank Kittredge
vehemently opposed the concept. [49]
Their antagonism focused on two results the road
would bring. First, the "high route" would slash across the western
slopes of the Great Western Divide creating a road scar visible from
Moro Rock. This type of unacceptable scenic disruption had already led
to abandonment of the Middle Fork Road. Park Service landscape
architects bitterly opposed what they saw as vicious destruction of the
park's principal vista. [50] In addition,
park officials did not want the backcountry opened to a highway for fear
of the secondary development that would accompany it. Although San
Joaquin Valley businessmen passed resolutions promising that no roads
would be built eastward and that this would serve as a "boundary" to
development, park planners envisioned inevitable pressure to extend a
small scenic road here, build a campground there, and so forth which
would turn the highway into a full-blown development corridor. Not a
small part of the justification for Park Service opposition came from
park biologists who feared the intrusion would devastate wildlife and
alpine vegetation. [51]
Finally, after continued argument, the federal Bureau
of Public Roads, as a theoretically nonpartisan group, agreed to survey
the various routes from Giant Forest to Lake Isabella. Its conclusion
was not popular with anyone. The Bureau found the "high route" practical
and promising of exhilarating scenery for any who drove it. But it also
found the route terribly expensive, requiring an enormous amount of
blasting and rock-clearing to hug the cliff faces and cross the
difficult passes. To the Park Service, the Bureau's recommendations
added official fuel to the threatening fire of the Sierra Way. But, to
road proponents in the San Joaquin Valley it tagged the project with a
backbreaking price. [52]
In answer to mounting criticism, the Park Service
finally pledged some $15 million to Colonel White for sections of the
road within Sequoia. However, he remained adamant in his opposition to
the project. The exact sequence of political events at this stage
remains clouded in partial secrecy and closed negotiations. But, several
events transpired to finally defeat the Sierra Way. First the
Commonwealth Club of California released a widely published and highly
touted booklet entitled, "Should We Stop Building New Roads into
California's High Mountains?" [53] The
influential club decried several road projects including the Sierra Way.
At the same time Colonel White flatly refused the money provided for
construction of the high altitude road. Finally, Director Cammerer
dismissed the entire Sierra Way scheme as something that "might be
appropriate in 25 or 50 years." Cost was cited by White and Cammerer as
the deciding factor, although neither lost an opportunity to mention the
Commonwealth Club's booklet, similar releases by the Sierra Club, and
their own beliefs about an inviolate backcountry [54]
By the end of 1936 the Sierra Way was dead.
Northward, many portions of the road had been completed and today form a
series of popular links in the still-incomplete chain. In the 1960s, the
Sierra Way project surfaced again as a predominantly foothills route to
connect State Highway 49 with Isabella via the Generals Highway, but it
too failed to gain sufficient official backing and funding. The Sierra
Way was by far the most serious potential threat to befall the Sequoia
backcountry. Its defeat marked another turning point in the shift of
Park Service policies from development and public use to restriction and
preservation. [55]
While alpine highway enthusiasts pushed the Sierra
Way, they also boosted several trans-Sierra road projects. Owens Valley
communities, particularly Independence and Lone Pine, were the major
proponents. Their support of a trans-Sierra road was understandable.
Access to the San Joaquin Valley and through it to the San Francisco Bay
area would dramatically improve their situation for goods, services, and
tourists. In addition, they would benefit from another connection to
southern California. Two distinct projects became popular, both of which
were peripheral but threatening to Sequoia National Park. One route from
the San Joaquin Valley to Independence was planned for Kearsarge Pass in
the Kings Canyon area. This project called for extension of the highway
which was being built into the canyon of the South Fork and would have
provided access to spectacular scenery for nearly its entire distance.
The other road would have affected the southern edge of Sequoia, as it
joined Porterville to Lone Pine. A variety of exact routes were
suggested, some entirely outside the park and some routed so as to open
up the sequoia groves of Dennison Ridge and other portions of the park's
southern townships. [56]
The Park Service opposed both concepts during the
1930s even if both roads remained outside the park. The Kings Canyon
area was a long-sought addition to Sequoia and General Grant,
specifically for its magnificent backcountry. Park proponents believed
that a road such as the Kearsarge-Independence Highway would
dramatically reduce the quality of the proposed addition and its primary
justification. Meanwhile, the southern crossing threatened to supply
auto tourists to Hockett Meadow and other delicate backcountry areas.
According to park officials, even if the road itself remained outside
these areas, its proximity would lead to inevitable trail development
and public pressure. Ironically, the commitment by powerful San Joaquin
Valley groups to the Sierra Way as an eastern boundary to auto traffic
placed them in direct opposition to their Owens Valley counterparts. By
the time the Sierra Way project died, public support for major road
incursions into the southern Sierra Nevada had also waned. A few years
later creation of Kings Canyon National Park as a "wilderness park" and
improvement of a trans-Sierra road well south of Sequoia National Park
removed the threat of these mountain highways. [57]
Defeat of these three road projects, the Sierra Way,
the Porterville to Lone Pine Highway, and the Kearsarge-Independence
Road allowed the Park Service to keep the backcountry as a zone of low
use. The frontcountry problems of Giant Forest existed because
development for roads and mass traffic had occurred before planning and
before any semblance of resource preservation. In rescuing the
backcountry from similar auto access, the Park Service assured itself of
easier conversion to limits on use and to preservationist policies two
decades later.
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