Chapter Six:
Colonel John White and Preservation in Sequoia National Park (1931-1947)
(continued)
Atmosphere Preservation: Holding the Line
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As he wielded the powerful CCC development machine,
Colonel White assumed an ever greater role in determining which projects
could be adopted and which should be abandoned. At least part of the
reason for his waxing personal control derived from a transition in
administration within the National Park Service. Prior to 1933, the Park
Service was a small, centralized organization with a tight chain of
command in Washington. The director approved nearly every significant
decision. During the CCC period, the Park Service evolved a system of
regional officers and well-staffed divisions within those regions and
within the Washington office. When this system became fully established
with its various officers in well-defined roles, it distanced the
Washington office from many decisions and diminished the power of each
park superintendent. However, during this hectic transition period, and
with the added impetus of local direction of each park's CCC program,
superintendents gained great power to originate development and
interpret policy. [11]
Colonel White's senior and honored status, his strong
convictions and forceful personality, and the growing suspicion that he
might be right in his increasingly preservationist ideals combined to
lend him extra authority. White took advantage of the situation to
imprint his views on Sequoia National Park to perhaps a greater extent
than any other superintendent has done. And nowhere were Colonel White's
views in the mid-1930s better expressed than in his landmark address to
his fellow superintendents, entitled "Atmosphere in the National Parks."
White proposed that there were four parties who had interests in a
national parkfuture generations of Americans; the people who
visited and supported the parks; the government, principally represented
by the park superintendent; and the concessioner. While all four had
rights in the parks according to their legally specified roles, there
was no question in White's mind that the first groupfuture
generationsa group with no power and no voice save that of the
park staff, should have paramount rights. Hence, he endorsed a policy of
erring on the side of preservation. [12]
After defining the situation and the interested
parties, White went on to comment on specific practices and developments
and their propriety for national parks. He supported campfire programs
and nature hikes as well as educational films, natural winter sports
areas, and widely dispersed camping and lodging facilities. He opposed
radios, loudspeakers, stages and shows, dances and dance halls, tennis
courts, golf courses, swimming pools, bands, electric lighting, movies
for entertainment, convention business, sporting competitions,
concession-operated sightseeing buses, tacky curio sales, and most of
the kinds of entertainment typical resorts of the day provided. To
promote the "proper" park uses and forestall "improper" ones, he
believed that a superintendent needed to be an "obstructionist." He
suggested that people using and supporting the park would, often in
ignorance, desire these negative additions. Meanwhile the concessioner
could be counted upon to press for such amusements at every turn to
maximize business and profits. In White's mind only the
superintendentthe lead obstructioniststood between the park
for future generations and the agitators clamoring for ever greater
development. [13]
From 1931 through 1941, visitation to Sequoia
National Park continued a meteoric annual increase, jumping from 143,573
to 300,012. [14] In addition, after 1935
most of the nearly equal numbers of entrants to General Grant National
Park were able to journey into Sequoia on the completed Generals
Highway. Virtually all these visitors poured into Giant Forest, creating
massive traffic problems. The chaos and racket that attended a holiday
weekend often obliterated the "atmosphere" that White sought to promote.
Thus, while directing the vast development actions of the CCC, the
superintendent also conducted his campaign of "obstructionism"
concentrating on three courses of actioncontrol and exclusion of
improper uses of the park, dispersal of activities and infrastructure,
and careful regulation of the concessioner.
Every year Colonel White received requests that
forced reappraisal of park resources and the Park Service charter. Many
of these he rejected outright while others called for consultation with
his staff and superiors. In most cases his decisions reflected a will to
the atmosphere by direct exclusion or tight control. Even before the end
of Mather's directorship, White squared off against the concession
company and most public opinion by rejecting funds to install
electricity lines to Giant Forest. Despite incessant pressure and
insistent pleading he rejected appropriations, turned back power company
offers, and turned down Mauger and Hays over and over. [15] He allowed small, isolated generators, but
only in a few concession areas and for limited purposes. During the
1930s, White turned down applications from the Sequoia and General Grant
National Parks Company to build a commercial movie theater, a miniature
golf course, tennis courts and a croquet field. Independent operators
who proposed placing telescopes on Moro Rock and conducting pony rides
in Giant Forest also met swift rejection. Other suggestions such as a
system of sightseeing buses with loud speakers, a cable lift to Moro
Rock, and hay rides never even reached full proposal status before the
Colonel shot them down. He had mixed feelings on the notion of airplanes
and landing fields in or near the park. While he disapproved of such
interference, he felt that construction of a small field at the edge of
the park and strict enforcement of a narrow flying corridor over the
park offered a better chance of controlling airplane intrusion than
outright exclusion which he felt would be ignored by pilots. In this
rare instance, NPS Director Arno Cammerer overruled White and
established the more stringent policy of exclusion with predictably
mixed results. [16]
While fending off these obnoxious suggestions,
Colonel White also tackled the problem of dispersing the activities and
visitation which placed so much pressure on Giant Forest. One measure
was to encourage visitors to come to Sequoia at times other than the
busy peak season. Winter use in Giant Forest had begun in 1921 and
become institutionalized when the concessioner took over winter
accommodations in 1927. After the completion of the Generals Highway,
most of the activity concentrated at Lodgepole and Wolverton, which
dovetalled nicely with White's plan to shift use away from the sequoias
to nearby valleys and meadows. It soon became apparent, however, that
visitors did not come in winter instead of in summer, but in
addition to. By 1936, White was forced to reject pleas from the
concessioner for a ski lift and other artificial facilities. So many
people crowded Wolverton Meadow and its gentle surrounding slopes that
traffic again became a problem, exacerbated by snow and the much higher
incidence of injury to visitors from various winter activities. At least
it gave White the excuse to move the hospital and doctor out of Giant
Forest to nearby Lodgepole. [17]
Of greater promise were White's plans to disperse
various functions and facilities from Giant Forest to other sites in the
park. He had already shifted camping from the center of the grove to its
rim, but Hazelwood, Firwood, and other campgrounds had become serious
problems. Part of the troubles arose from some campers five- or
six-month stays. Many were victims of the Depression, while others
simply intended to enjoy extended vacations and cheap accommodations at
the government's expense. By 1933, Park Forester Lawrence Cook suggested
that limits be placed on the duration of camping in the park. He
believed that a rigorous one-night limit at Hazelwood and two or four
week limits at the other campgrounds in Giant Forest would suffice. As a
concession to demand and a ploy to shift visitors out of the grove,
Lodgepole could remain limitless, and the Dorst Creek campground should
be developed rapidly. [18] The following
year White implemented a modified plan which placed a thirty-day limit
on all Giant Forest areas, left Lodgepole open, and started development
of Dorst Campground. Between 1936 and 1939 the Park Service completed
Dorst and enlarged Lodgepole while closing Hazelwood to overnight use
and greatly reducing the size of the other Giant Forest camps. With less
infrastructure and lower cost of replacement, camping was an easy target
for the reform-minded Park Service. [19]
Colonel White also decided to shift as many Park
Service structures as possible out of Giant Forest. In 1931 and 1932,
park officials removed corrals and barns and all maintenance facilities,
returning several hundred acres to relatively natural conditions and
public use. The maintenance facilities went to Lodgepole, near the
burgeoning main campground while the corrals went to Wolverton. [20] During the late twenties and early thirties
considerable discussion had revolved around a large museum and
administrative center at Giant Forest Village. Although many supporters
of Giant Forest evacuation urged White to make an exception in this
case, the superintendent convinced his superiors to dispense with a
museum and build a smaller summer headquarters at Lodgepole. At the same
time, White gained approval to improve park employee housing in
Lodgepole near the new administrative center. Although the government
still maintained a number of facilities in the grove, including ranger
cabins, visitor contact stations, the superintendent's house, and
assorted support buildings, the trend and progress of removal advanced
sharply during the CCC era. The availability of CCC labor allowed White
to designate each cleared zone for cleanup, landscaping and replanting
until a semblance of "natural atmosphere" and appearance returned to the
forest. [21]
In controlling unwanted practices in the park and
removing Park Service features from Giant Forest, Colonel White achieved
considerable success and branded Sequoia with his philosophy and
actions. However, when it came to the concession company, White's
control was small. Throughout his career, the superintendent had
problems with company executives Howard Hays and George Mauger. In the
case of Hays, White met his intellectual and expository equal. Their
often friction-filled correspondence bristled with neat turns of phrase
and eloquent defenses of their respective positions. Fortunately for
Sequoia and for White, Hays was a fairly restrained and responsible man
who had a genuine interest in preserving Big Trees while operating his
business among them. Still, his ideas of appropriate level and character
of visitor use of the grove differed widely from those of White. For
more than two decades, from its arrival in 1926 until Colonel White's
departure in 1947, the company battled with the superintendent over
seemingly every issue of building and expansion. At least part of the
problem stemmed from Hays' continuing penchant for going over White's
head. Often this worked, particularly during the years of Horace
Albright's directorship. White would later write to William Colby of the
Sierra Club, "during my 28 years in the national parks the concessioner
problem was the only really difficult one, largely insoluble by a
superintendent because the concessioner had such constant access to
higher ups of the Department and the Service and could afford to
disregard a superintendent." [22]
After White's plan to oust Giant Forest Lodge was
rejected in 1931, several years of tense relations followed between
White and Hays and between White and Albright. When White continued to
complain about the lodge and block moves to upgrade and expand to the
new pillow limit," Albright upbraided him for his "attitude" problem. In
March 1932 Albright wrote to White:
We are extremely fortunate to have the facilities
that are now available in the Giant Forest and in General Grant Park.
The pity of it is that we had to lose the General Grant Lodge (destroyed
by fire) which the company cannot well afford to rebuild. Your attitude
toward the operator is of course known to the company officers and is
very discouraging. It seems to me to reflect a feeling which I have felt
that you have had for a long time, that there ought to be some other way
of providing facilities in national parks besides through our present
concession system. I hope I am mistaken in this impression, for there is
no hope of Congress changing the present policy and as long as we have
to operate under the present general policy we should do so
wholeheartedly, giving our operators who are serving the public in just
the same way as we are, full encouragement and support. [23]
To this challenge a deeply offended White briskly
responded. Hays had convinced Albright that the company was barely
squeaking by, but White showed that the concessioner had enjoyed steady
profits of nearly 10 percent over the previous three years. To Hays'
admonition that concession customers were the true park visitors because
they stayed longer, White charged elitism and violently disagreed.
Finally to the charge that he had an attitude problem, White reiterated
the financial success of the concession company and added:
I submit that if the operator has obtained these
results despite my covert or expressed hostility, he is either a
financial genius or I am singularly unfortunate in my objectives. I
cannot but believe, however, that my supervision of the operator's
activities has been beneficial to all three of the interested parties:
the Government, the people and the operators. . . . We are building as
we go, and the Service is young. But I had hoped that I was contributing
to the solution of operator problems, and regret that my protection of
the park and the public should have been interpreted into hostility to
the operator, which I do not in any way feel. I rather like him, or
them; but I like the Big Trees even better. [24]
Amid this acrimonious atmosphere and the continued
increase of visitors and their demands, the decade 1931 to 1941 unfolded
as a recurring war of nerves and influence between White and the
company. After establishment of the pillow limits, Hays and Mauger
quickly assembled more cabins reaching the guest limit of 200 for Giant
Forest Lodge by 1932, 500 for Camp Kaweah by 1936, and 300 at Pinewood,
the last to be established, by 1938. [25] At
the same time, the concessioner gained approval to enlarge the lodge
office, the gas station and most of the buildings at Giant Forest
Village. An example of one technique used by the company was provided by
the Giant Forest lunch room, which later became the Giant Forest studio
gift shop. Mauger requested permission to erect a temporary tent
addition in May 1933 to handle the summer season overflow. After meeting
some resistance from White he secured approval from Director Albright on
the condition that the structure was "definitely temporary." [26] Later in that year, after a successful
tourist season, Mauger requested that the structure remain in use during
the winter. White responded by agreeing, with the understanding that he
could demand its removal at any time. [27]
Apparently Mauger was persuasive, for the "temporary addition" still
stood fifty years later.
Use of Giant Forest Village facilities continued to
grow, and in 1935 Mauger convinced the Park Service of the need to add
onto the Village in some fashion. The solution was replacement of the
dance area of the coffee shop with expanded restaurant facilities and
addition of a separate assembly-dance hall across the road in Camp
Kaweah. Time and again Hays and Mauger gained approval for little,
"temporary additions" and jockeyed them into permanent features in the
face of stiff opposition from the superintendent. [28]
The Sequoia and General Grant National Parks Company
did not always emerge victorious, however. White categorically refused
to allow construction of a gift shop at the Sherman Tree, a decision
which the Washington office upheld. [29]
Upon receiving permission to build an assembly hall, Hays and Mauger
submitted plans for both the recreation structure and an additional
employee dormitory behind and slightly upslope from Giant Forest Village
near Bear Hill. This would have placed structures amid sequoia trees in
a previously undeveloped area and would have considerably increased
traffic and parking problems in the Village. White launched a campaign
to block this location and enlisted the aid of regional and Washington
office landscape architects to support his position against an expected
appeal to the director by Howard Hays. In the end, White succeeded in
getting the assembly hall built in Camp Kaweah near Beetle Rock, in
reducing employee housing capacity, and in shifting it likewise to
Kaweah. In addition, when the assembly hall opened in August 1940,
conspicuously absent from its name and designated purposes were dancing
and conventions, although both activities persisted in limited form for
some years. [30]
For a decade Colonel White lived with the reality of
the concession's indefinite presence in Giant Forest and, at the same
time, battled to control its expansion and remove whatever facilities he
could. With evidence of harm to the Big Trees and widespread disruption
of the national park atmosphere, Albright's rejection of White's
attempted concession ouster from the grove had been a bitter pill for
the superintendent to swallow. White never gave up on the idea, however,
and by 1940, while assigned to the Service's San Francisco office as
regional director, he succeeded in resurrecting the concept before the
Washington office, at least in theory. Then in January 1941, as White
entered his last six months in San Francisco, his replacement in
Sequoia, Eivind Scoyen, wrote to inform him that a falling sequoia had
crushed the superintendent's summer cabin. White had spent many a happy
season there hosting dignitaries, meeting the public, and conducting the
business of Sequoia National Park. He sympathized with Scoyen's desire
to reconstruct the cabin and continue its pleasant occupation. However,
he believed that the campaign against building in Giant Forest precluded
rebuilding a government structure in the grove. Instead, he suggested
that it be built at Lodgepole alongside the other offices and residences
of the Park Service. [31]
Some months later in July 1941 White returned to
Sequoia to resume his role as superintendent. Although his return meant
relinquishing his promotion and any chance of further career
advancement, White had never been happy away from his beloved park. His
disaffection for both San Francisco and Washington led to health
problems and depression. When he returned, one of the first duties he
faced was solution of the superintendent's cabin question. To White the
presence of the park's principal public officer within the grove was far
more important than the cabins, stores and cafeterias of the
concessioner. So he reversed his former stance and requested that his
cabin be rebuilt at its old site, pending removal of the fallen tree, or
at a similar site within 100 yards. After due consideration, the
Washington office refused but in so doing was forced to hear again
White's vigorous and righteous arguments on behalf of total evacuation
from Giant Forest. If the Park Service's major officer could not be in
the grove, he argued, then why should the concessioner? [32]
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Thus, after ten years of relative quiescence, the big
question for Sequoia National Park reared again. The catalyst of the
superintendent's cabin, fueled by White's return and the return of his
strident philosophical program, once again threatened to wrench Hays,
Mauger, and their company out of the so-called "sacred area." Much of
the reason for the resurgence was a more widespread acceptance of
Colonel White's ideas of national park "atmosphere," particularly among
landscape architects whose voices carried great power at all levels of
the Service. Additionally, however, the tiny seed of science and ecology
had begun to sprout. It was still weak and applied more to backcountry
and wildlife management, but its paradigms were gaining power. The
growth of scientific management during the 1930s would lay the
foundation for a revolution in philosophy and purpose two decades
later.
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