Chapter Five:
Selling Sequoia: The Early Park Service Years (1916-1931)
(continued)
The Army's completion of the Colony Mill Road to
Giant Forest in 1903 was a banner event for Sequoia because it opened
the park to the common traveler for the first time. However, almost from
the day of its completion, engineers, park rangers and visitors
commented on the need for a replacement road which would provide a
gentler grade and wider, more sweeping turns. With the advent of regular
automobile traffic shortly before the founding of the Park Service, such
suggestions became demands. The Colony Mill Road wound tightly up
precipitous slopes at a steady grade of about 10 percent, far too narrow
and steep for the substantial traffic expected in the upcoming years. A
potential solution was provided by the Mt. Whitney Power Company's road
along the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River which extended nearly seven
miles up the canyon toward Giant Forest. As a mechanism for implementing
Mather's program of increased visitor use, a new highway into Sequoia
National Park became the first and foremost priority, the lifeline by
which all else would hang. [13]
During his visit to Sequoia in 1918, Director Mather
saw firsthand the limitations of the Colony Mill Road. The bumpy,
grinding, dusty trip frustrated the director who envisioned the tangle
that would inevitably result from a summer weekend's traffic.
Accordingly he ordered a survey of an additional road to be undertaken
and bids for construction to be accepted by Superintendent Fry. An
engineer by the name of Peters completed a preliminary survey from the
power company's road terminus at Hospital Rock up over Deer Ridge to
Giant Forest, and a Fresno contractor agreed to undertake the job.
Unfortunately, the funds for construction of a road over this "Peter's
Survey" route, estimated at $300,000, remained unavailable for a couple
of years while Congress contemplated the worth of such a project. [14]
The delay in construction gave Mather and new
Superintendent White an opportunity to review the project and its
implications. In the original plans the new highway would supplement
rather than replace the Colony Mill Road. The one-lane power company
road would continue as a one-way road into the park, while the old road
would furnish a lane for outgoing traffic. Ironically, this concept
would reappear repeatedly as park planners struggled to control traffic
and protect the park atmosphere. However, after considerable discussion
and consultation, park officials decided to construct a two-lane road up
the new route and abandon the old road due to the high expense of
maintaining both. [15]
Meanwhile, a decade-old scheme known as the
Park-to-Park Highway steamrolled onto the scene and into the planning.
This scheme had been a popular notion among businessmen, publishers, and
others who urged the public to "See America First." The idea was to
build a network of roads connecting the national parks upon which
Americans and, presumably, Europeans could travel from one spectacular
attraction to another. A well-developed road connection from Sequoia to
General Grant had been an early and obvious link in this planned scenic
chain. By 1920 the idea was being seriously considered as an extension
of the road project from Hospital Rock to Giant Forest. Two years later
the Park Service secured Forest Service approval and commitments of
funds from the affected counties and state. The "Generals Highway"
project was born. Vastly improved access roads from Visalia and Fresno
to the new parks had recently been promised, and the vision of a
comfortable, scenic loop through the spectacular mountain country
sparkled in the mind's eyes of the Park Service, Forest Service, and
local business representatives. The road would connect the General
Sherman Tree with the General Grant Tree and allow visitors to cruise
comfortably up to 7,000 feet and through both parks in a day. Work began
in 1922, with a total projected cost, including expansion of the
existing Mt. Whitney Road and construction of the portion from Hospital
Rock to General Grant National Park, of slightly more than $400,000. [16]
In July 1926 the highway opened from Ash Mountain,
where a new administrative center had been constructed two years earlier
on the bluffs above the Middle Fork of the Kaweah, to Giant Forest. The
road entered the Giant Forest plateau from the south near Beetle Rock
and proceeded northeasterly toward the General Sherman Tree and the
future site of Lodgepole. The new Generals Highway passed through the
heart of the old development area in Giant Forest and necessitated a
redesign of the entire area. A few months later, after assumption of the
duties and facilities, the new concessioner, Sequoia and General Grant
National Parks Company, ceremoniously and literally picked up its stores
and dining facilities and moved them from the old site near Round Meadow
to a new site on the eastern side of the road across from Beetle Rock.
The new location and its facilities became known as Giant Forest Village
and would later become the focus of intense Park Service efforts to
remove concession buildings and their respective functions from Giant
Forest. [17]
With completion of the all-important Ash
Mountain-to-Giant Forest segment, attention was turned to the slowly
progressing connection between the two parks. Blasting and grinding
through the rock and cliffs of the seasonally snowbound Forest Service
territory came the road builders from General Grant. Northward from
Giant Forest, past the huge General Sherman Tree and the newly developed
camping area at Lodgepole came the Sequoia contractors. North of
Lodgepole the builders encountered a series of creeks which demanded
expensive bridgesWolverton, Silliman, Clover, and Suwanee as well
as a large one at Lodgepole itself. The work was slow and one contractor
went bankrupt trying to complete the bridges. Another, the Bechtel
Company, devoted some ninety-five men to the project in a desperate
attempt to stay on schedule, but by summer of 1931 they still struggled
to finish. Bechtel lost heavily on the job as did the subcontractors
employed for bridge approaches and other related tasks. [18]
The reason for the slowness of work and consequent
construction troubles came partly from the quality control exercised by
Park Service landscape architects. The 1920s and 1930s marked the apogee
of landscape architecture as a determinant of Park Service policy and
development. With every decision to build came a studied effort to blend
the features into the surrounding environment, to look rustic, scenic
and "appropriate." One of the results of this attitude of scenery
preservation was the defeat of a plan to build a large and elaborate
hotel, like Yosemite's Ahwahnee, near Beetle Rock. Instead the Park
Service approved a scattering of tiny cabins and tent-tops which still
in the late 1980s litter dozens of forest acres. Another impact was a
set of stringent specifications for the Generals Highway and its
bridges. Arches and supports of carefully cut and molded stone pleased
the eye and suggested a rustic coordination with the rocky streambeds
and towering cliffs nearby. They also called for back-breaking and
expensive labor. Bechtel and the other companies suffered from drastic
employee turnover which slowed the job even further and exacerbated the
cost overrun. [19]
Nevertheless, the job continued. In October 1931 most
of the heavy bridge work concluded and the contractors faced the easier
task of pushing the road ahead to connect the two parks. Four years
later, on July 23, 1935, at Stoney Creek on Forest Service land, the
Generals Highway was dedicated. It had cost $2,250,000, more than five
times the original estimate, yet it provided one of the finest, most
scenic highways in mountain America. With its completion the Park
Service and the public realized their long-held dreams of a loop road
through both parks. Sequoia and General Grant were more firmly bonded
together than ever before. The Generals Highway marked the most
important piece of roadbuilding in the history of the parks and
continues to be the artery of visitor circulation today. [20]
Ironically, even before the Generals Highway
construction began, engineers from the federal Bureau of Public Roads
began to consider alternate routes from Hospital Rock to Giant Forest.
Although the new highway would be a vast improvement over the Colony
Mill Road, it still required many tight turns and a grade that
occasionally exceeded 8 percent. From an engineering stand point there
was another, far superior route available. In 1920, NPS civil engineer
George Goodwin proposed that an access road extend far up the canyon of
the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River, make one turn back, and proceed
along the plateau to enter Giant Forest from the east. Such a road could
avoid hairpin turns and progress at an easy grade to Panther Creek or
perhaps even as far as Redwood Meadow before executing its 180-degree
turn back to Giant Forest. Goodwin pointed out that this extension well
into the roadless backcountry could later be continued over the Great
Western Divide and into the Kern River country. [21]
Initially both Mather and White looked favorably upon
this project. Yet there were problems with the route. Chief among them
was price. This much longer road would cost at least twice as much as
the "Peters' Survey" route and for that reason in 1921 Mather advised
Visalia businessmen that the shorter and steeper route would be
constructed first and the longer road postponed until more funds became
available. For a time this decision quelled the calls for a "Middle
Fork" route, yet it was by no means out of the minds of road engineers
and local businessmen who saw any improvement and extension of access as
a potential money maker. In March 1927 the topic again surfaced among
Park Service engineers who had had a full season to watch more than
10,400 cars weave up the Generals Highway to Giant Forest. [22]
In the intervening years, however, Colonel White had
studied the proposed new route and found some serious flaws in the
proposal and in its potential results. After seven summer seasons in the
parks, the superintendent had become quite proprietary and had modified
his views principally toward those of the landscape architects with whom
he worked. He saw three reasons why the Middle Fork Road should not be
built. First, it would cost at least two million dollars, money that was
needed on the Giant Forest to General Grant connection as well as other
roads and projects in the parks. Second, it would necessitate a complete
reordering of the road pattern and redistribution of structures on the
Giant Forest plateau and create a good deal of traffic congestion.
Third, and ultimately most important, the Middle Fork Road would be a
visible scar running smack across the vista from the park's major
overlook at Moro Rock. As a footnote, White questioned the wisdom of
extending a road that far into the backcountry where hitherto only
trails interrupted the sublime wilderness experience available to
visitors. [23]
With such extensive and ardent opposition by the
superintendent, any project would seem to be doomed immediately.
However, at this time Stephen Mather, in ill health and distracted by
other problems and responsibilities retired and passed the directorship
to his longtime friend and associate Horace Albright. The new director
was, if anything, more committed to paving the way, literally and
figuratively, for vastly increased visitor use in the national parks.
Evidence of his lifetime commitment to the notion of "parks for people"
is abundant. He maintained his philosophy long after the Park Service
itself had evolved toward preservation and stricter control of visitor
use. [24] Albright had regarded the Generals
Highway up the "Peters' Survey" route as insufficient and potentially
dangerous from the start and he was no happier with it when, as
director, the Middle Fork proposal resurfaced.
Here began the first sparks in what was to become an
emotional clash of wills between a strong, passionate, and even
dictatorial superintendent and his equally resolute boss. At one point,
Albright in disgust referred to the new Generals Highway as a "rathole,"
an incident and term which deeply offended Colonel White. [25] For years afterward, White brought up the
remark when any reference to the road was made and long after serious
discussion of the Middle Fork alternative ceased. The conflict, which
fortunately never fatally harmed the friendship the two men shared,
later spread to a variety of other development issues, particularly in
Giant Forest. [26]
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In the case of the Middle Fork Road, the questions of
scenic disruption and the rising cost of such a project continued to
stall any decision. Park Service engineer Frank Kittredge, a future NPS
regional director, repeatedly resurrected the notion, but could not
overcome the twin fears of scenic injury and expense. [27] White, in a letter to Francis Farquhar of
the Sierra Club, dismissed the ideas of engineers: "I have the highest
regard for Frank Kittredge, but in dealing with engineers you must not
always follow their tangents of thought. They deal so much with tangents
on roads that they sometimes think along the same lines." [28]
In the end, White outlasted the opposition and even
convinced Albright, after his retirement, to join in opposing the Middle
Fork Road. What convinced most Park Service administrators was the
continued success of the Generals Highway. By 1931 it carried up to
2,000 cars on some summer days. A few years later the road remained open
throughout the winter with no problems. By the mid-1930s the Generals
Highway, including the "Peters' Survey," had proven itself. Agitation
for alternative routing faded to a murmur from discontented engineers.
[29]
In addition to the Generals Highway, several shorter
but important public roads and a network of rough fire roads also
commanded Park Service attention from 1916 to 1931. One of the first to
be constructed was a road from Wolverton to what came to be known as
Lodgepole. Completed in 1917, the road proved useful later when the
government turned to Lodgepole as an alternate site for both public and
concession development. [30] Another
important road developed along the old horse trail from Moro Rock to
Crescent Meadow. Here the Park Service met some resistance from the
Sierra Club which conducted some of its popular summer camps at Crescent
Meadow and opposed opening the area to auto traffic. After construction
and oiling of the route was completed in the mid-twenties, the Park
Service found the road so popular that a tangle of parked cars crowded
up to the very base of Moro Rock. For a while, Park Service engineers
and Colonel White considered a loop road that would bring drivers past
Moro Rock, around Crescent Meadow, and back to Giant Forest via Bear
Hill, where another road had been constructed to the garbage incinerator
and bear show. However, after further reflection, White blocked the
plans because of the potential damage to the scenery and serenity of
protected sequoia areas. [31]
While the Park Service designed, developed, and oiled
public roads and campground accesses, it also vigorously extended the
trail system, especially after park expansion in 1926. Where the Sierra
Club and other preservationists urged caution or actively opposed
roadbuilding in the parks, they enthusiastically lobbied for trail
development. [32] In 1916 a fairly complete
network of high Sierra trails already existed, the legacy of years of
sheep and cattle grazing as well as hunting and recreational camping.
But, these trails often consisted of little more than the eroded paths
made by past domestic animals. To serve an anticipated boom in
backcountry hiking and riding, Sequoia at least would need extensive
improvement of old trails and construction of new ones. General Grant
National Park was simply too small, although a few miles around its
principal grove and up to the Paradise overlook needed work.
After the 1926 expansion of Sequoia, the Park Service
undertook an aggressive trail program, prodded consistently by an eager
Sierra Club. In the first full construction season the following year,
seventeen men worked on improving or building thirty miles of trail,
including the popular Alta Trail from Giant Forest to Alta Peak and a
new trail along the Marble Fork from Lodgepole to Tokopah Falls. The
largest job involved reconstruction of nearly sixteen miles of trail at
scattered points in Kern Canyon, a part of the recent addition of former
Forest Service land. Toward the end of the season another eight and
one-half miles in the southern part of the park in and around the
Garfield Grove were upgraded with fire prevention funds. In the ensuing
several years, park employees accelerated this pace of reconstruction or
development of trails both in Giant Forest, where the routes of heaviest
use were lightly oiled, and in the new backcountry. [33]
During the period from 1916 to 1932, however,
construction and maintenance of two spectacular and costly "special
status" trails commanded the attention and much of the appropriations of
Sequoia National Park. One was the premier backcountry trail in
California if not in the entire Westthe John Muir Trail. The other
was the Sierra Nevada's most elaborate and ambitious trail, a veritable
hiker's freewaythe High Sierra Trail. Both projects were the
product of high expectations and dreams, both cost years of effort, tens
of thousands of dollars, and in the case of the John Muir Trail, even
some lives. And both today form the backbone of the Sequoia and Kings
Canyon trail system.
The John Muir Trail was officially adopted by the
California Legislature in 1915 when it appropriated $10,000 toward
construction of a high-altitude trail from Yosemite Valley to Mt.
Whitney. The route was sanctioned in August of that year after
consultations between state engineers, the Sierra Club, the U.S.
Geological Survey, and the Forest Service, with the latter having actual
jurisdiction. Construction began a few weeks later on the 184-mile trail
and proceeded against late snowfalls and funding interruptions until
1933. In the process 17.5 miles of the trail were transferred to Sequoia
National Park in 1926. The Park Service then undertook extensive repair
and rerouting of that segment, which had been among the earliest
completed and most heavily damaged by long winters and travelers' pack
stock. Although the bulk of the John Muir Trail lay still in Forest
Service land, it began and ended in national parks and was most
associated with its famous terminus Mt. Whitney. At Sequoia the annual
maintenance of this trail, which wove through altitudes of 10,000 to
14,495 feet, placed a heavy burden on park trail appropriations. [34]
The High Sierra Trail was the most colorful of all
the backcountry projects, a symbolic step in unifying the original park
with its huge backcountry addition; it was also one of Colonel White's
pet projects during his first dozen years at the helm. During the
twenties, the superintendent had become convinced that the future of the
parks and, indeed, the future of the conservation ethic in America, lay
in the wilderness, specifically in public experience it and education
from the wilderness. To diffuse stressed and crowded visitors from
auto-jammed, urban-like camps of Giant Forest and show them the wisdom
and peace of the natural world, they had to be separated from their
cars, cabins, and dingy amusements and propelled into the wilderness.
But, the average visitor was not prepared for the rough and tumble of
the improved sheep trails that lined most of the park's new territory.
The solution was a gently sloping, high quality, carefully designed
trail that would lead visitors through meadows and canyons and over
passes between towering peaks from one of the park's major attractions,
Giant Forest, to the other, Mt. Whitney. The first hurdle was convincing
the Washington office of the necessity for such a project and the
considerable cost it would entail. This White accomplished by early 1928
when Sequoia received new trail-building funds with provisions for the
High Sierra Trail. He secured the temporary assistance of a National
Park Service engineer and began to plan the exact route of his new
"tourist" trail.
Initial study convinced White that Crescent Meadow
was the logical starting point for the trail. During the first
construction season in 1928 Ranger Guy Hopping and his crew constructed
a mile-and-a-half of gentle pathway along the slopes above the Middle
Fork. For the next two years, laborers drove the trail eastward,
blasting and hand-digging through miles of solid granite on steep slopes
while engineers Guy Edwards and John Diehl studied how to bring the
trail over the Great Western Divide. Their options eventually boiled
down to crossing either via Tamarack Lake and Lion Lake or via Hamilton
Lakes. Either route involved heavy work near the crest of the divide and
down the other side. Eventually, Diehl chose the Hamilton Lakes route
which offered the lowest pass at Kaweah Gap but presented one of the
most rugged sections of the park's high country. Included in the western
approach to Kaweah Gap was an imposing sheer-walled, steeply angled
avalanche chute known as Hamilton Gorge. To cope with this barrier,
Diehl resolved to construct an elaborate suspension bridge with tons of
cable, steel, and concrete brought in twenty-one miles by pack train
from Mineral King via Black Rock Pass.
Through the summers of 1930 to 1932, work crews
continued the heavy construction, literally carving the trail out of
pure stone. By September 1932 the only task left west of the divide was
construction of the costly bridge. More than 200 pack animal trips were
required to deliver some 41,000 pounds of material. By October 10, the
Park Service announced that the spectacular bridge was complete and with
it the entire trail from Crescent Meadow to and beyond Kaweah Gap.
Original plans had called for the trail to continue eastward over Kaweah
Peaks and on to the John Muir Trail to connect with Mt. Whitney.
However, the Depression deprived the Park Service of funds to finish the
job. Instead, the trail connected with existing trails that skirted
south of the Kaweah Peaks, through Chagoopa Plateau and back up Kern
Canyon, to Junction Meadow and its original planned route. Five years
later, red-faced engineers found that the fragile Hamilton Gorge Bridge
had plunged into the canyon, a casualty of extremely heavy snowfalls and
an avalanche. After rerouting the trail around the gorge, using
half-tunnels to make a ledge along the sheer cliff, the High Sierra
Trail, as it now exists, was complete. It had taken five summer work
seasons and $120,00 to construct the twenty-one miles from Crescent
Meadow to Kaweah Gap. Improvement of the trail on the other side cost
tens of thousands more. Yet the project initiated a new phase in the use
of the Sierra Nevada backcountry and of Sequoia National Park. The High
Sierra Trail was the first trans-Sierra trail built entirely for
recreational purposes, and was the highest quality mountain trail in
California if not the entire nation. With its completion the backcountry
wilderness became easily accessible to the burgeoning number of park
visitors and realized Colonel White's dream of bringing wilderness
opportunity to the general public. [35]
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