EARLY DEVELOPMENT OF THE NATIONAL MONUMENT
Under the general direction of the NPS, various
relief agencies such as the Emergency Relief Administration (ERA), the
Resettlement Administration, the Works Progress Administration (WPA),
and the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worked on development
projects in the area. Only a few scattered reports are now available on
the work of these agencies. About 150 persons were employed at the area
in January 1937 on such projects as resurfacing, backsloping, ditching,
and grading roads. [147] This included major
reconstruction of the Sheep Mountain Canyon road, completed the same
year. [148]
One project of interest completed June 30, 1940 by
ERA labor, under the Public Roads Administration, was the obliteration
of two tunnels along the Pinnacles-Cedar Pass road. They were
constructed during the first half of the 1930's (see Figure 19) when the
road was built by the State of South Dakota; the road was completed in
1935. The tunnels proved to be impractical because of inadequate width
and maintenance problems. [149]
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Figure 19. UPPER (PINNACLES) TUNNEL,
1938. This 175-foot by 16-foot tunnel was located in the national
monument about two miles southeast of the present Pinnacles Ranger
Station. It and Lower (Norbeck) Tunnel, situated about three miles west
of Cedar Pass Lodge near the base of Norbeck Pass, were in use only
about four years before being obliterated. [140]
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In July 1940 the ERA project in the area was
discontinued. Among the types of work accomplished since July 1, 1936,
when the project was initiated, were the construction of five project
headquarters buildings, prospecting for water on the national monument,
the development of a well near the site of the old Pinnacles Checking
Station, and ten road jobs which included road construction, widening,
graveling, building culverts, and banksloping. The construction of
parking overlooks, and the obliteration of buildings and clearing of 16
farmstead tracts, also took place during that time. [150]
During the 12 months between July 1939 and July 1940,
the ERA project employed an average of 150 relief workers. [151]
Since the national monument is located a relatively
short distance from Wind Cave National Park, the older area co-ordinated
the business of Badlands during its early years. On August 11, 1939,
Chief Ranger Howard B. Stricklin of Wind Cave became acting custodian of
the newly designated area and was later placed in charge of the local
ERA and CCC projects. [152] Although the ERA project
was terminated in July 1940, the CCC work continued until June 1942.
[153]
When Stricklin arrived to take charge, there were no
living quarters of any kind in the area. He lived at the CCC camp at
Quinn Table while his family remained at Wind Cave. Temporary offices
were established in Wall pending a decision regarding the location of
permanent headquarters. [154]
Considerable thought was given to the selection of a
headquarters site. For a time the Pinnacles area was considered. [155] However, in late 1939 it was finally decided to
locate the center of operations at Cedar pass. [156]
This decision was due, in part, to the offer by Mr. Ben H. Millard,
owner of Cedar Pass Lodge,
to donate approximately 28 acres of strategically
located land in the Cedar Pass area to the Service to be used as a
headquarters area. [157]
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Figure 20. CEDAR PASS LODGE, early
1930's. The lodge was begun in 1928 at about the same time the large
dance pavillion building in the background was constructed. People from
as distant as Rapid City came here to dance to the music of Lawrence
Welk and other name bands. More cabins for the lodge were built from its
lumber when the pavillion was removed in about 1934. [159]
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The Department of the Interior accepted Millard's
donation in May 1941. [158]
The decision to develop the Cedar Pass area for
headquarters greatly altered development plans. The CCC enrollees
numbering 207 in February 1940 were encamped at Quinn Table some 35
miles west of Cedar Pass. Since much of the development was taking place
at Cedar Pass, it was necessary to drive them between these two points
each day. [160]
One of the great handicaps of Cedar Pass as a
headquarters area was the lack of water. To develop a satisfactory
supply, the NPS found it necessary to go to the White River, three miles
south. One of the major projects undertaken soon after selecting the
headquarters site was to dig a trench and lay pipe to the river. Since
this stream is intermittent above ground, but has a dependable
subsurface flow, water was collected in perforated pipes laid on hard
clay and shale about eight feet below the river bed. The pipe brought
water to a sump on the river bank where it was pumped to a
100,000-gallon storage tank above the headquarters area. [161] Work was begun on this reservoir in April 1940 and
completed by the CCC in September 1941. At the same time the CCC also
erected a checking station at Pinnacles which Stricklin and his family
occupied from November 15, 1940, until about May 15, 1943. [162]
Handicapped by the location of the original CCC camp
at Quinn Table, a new camp was authorized at Cedar Pass and work on it
began in June 1941. Five months later the new camp was occupied. [164]
At that time the only visitor-contact point in the
Cedar Pass area was at Cedar Pass Lodge. During the summer season Mr.
Millard lectured nightly to lodge guests on the geologic history of the
Badlands, thereby initiating interpretive programs. He also showed
movies of the Badlands and other scenic areas. A temporary park ranger,
who checked travel in the Cedar Pass area during the day, took part in
the evening programs. [165]
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Figure 21. PINNACLES RANGER STATION AND
CHECKING STATION, 1941. Completed in 1941, the ranger station also
served as quarters until January 1965 when the new Pinnacles ranger
station-residence was completed. The checking station was removed about
1958 to make way for road improvement, and the old ranger station was
razed in April 1967. [163]
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The problem of stock grazing in the national monument
grew increasingly worse during the 1940's. The acting custodian
complained early in 1940:
Until the boundary is fenced and we are in a better
position to know what is private and what is monument land, there
appears to be very little that can be done to prevent this. [166]
In December 1941 he wrote in a similar vein:
During past winters it has been the practice of local
stockmen to allow herds of horses and cattle to drift into the monument
area to graze unrestrictedly over public as well as private lands and
along the monument highways. There is such a large amount of private and
county-owned land within the monument boundaries (31,000 acres out of a
total of 150,000) that it is difficult to restrain stock from grazing on
National Park Service land as well as on the land that is owned or
leased by private individuals. [167]
It soon became obvious that Badlands National
Monument would be a popular attraction because of its location near U.S.
Highways 14 and 6, both well-known national highways going through the
Black Hills. In 1941 there were 70.02 miles of road in the national
monument. Of this, 61.52 miles were constructed by the state and 8.5
miles by the federal government; 29.87 miles were graveled and 40.15
were dirt roads. [168]
Although the roads through the area were only
partially developed, thousands of travelers turned off the through
highways to view the scenic Badlands.
Stricklin reported in September 1941:
More than a quarter of a million visitors had passed
through Badlands National Monument by the close of the travel season on
September 30, representing an increase of approximately 30 percent over
the previous year, for the period during which an actual count was made.
[169]
The entrance of the United States into World War II
in December 1941 had a great impact on the area and its operations.
Since many of the CCC enrollees would be absorbed into the armed forces,
the project work soon came to an end. The acting custodian reported in
the spring of 1942, "On March 25, after two years and five months of
productive work in Badlands National Monument, CCC Camp Badlands, NP-3
[located at Cedar Pass], was abandoned." [170] Work
was continued on several projects undertaken at Camp Badlands by a CCC
side camp with the view toward completing the projects or leaving them
"in such condition that the facilities involved may be used, and the
materials, all of which have been on hand for some time, may be
protected against deterioration and loss." [171]
However, the side camp was also closed in the following June, leaving
practically all of the construction projects in various states of
completion. [172] In December 1942 most of the CCC
buildings at Cedar Pass were dismantled and removed by the armed
services. [173]
Another result of the nation's entrance into the war
was a sharp drop in visitors to the Badlands. Stricklin wrote in June
1942 that "Most of these visitors appeared to be genuine vacationists .
. . [who] had a vacation coming, and were trying to get it in before gas
rationing became nation-wide." [174] He estimated
that travel in March 1943 was 87 percent under that for March 1942, and
that "All foreign [out-of-state) visitor cars stopping for information
were headed for defense jobs, or were military personnel, changing their
headquarters from one part of the country to another." [175] The effect of the war on travel to the national
monument is reflected in the travel figures of the area for the years
from 1941 to 1945. (See Appendix A.)
Efforts at the national monument during the war were
devoted largely to preventive maintenance. Changing his headquarters
from Pinnacles to Cedar Pass in June 1943, Stricklin was able to give
closer attention to the headquarters area. [176]
Such routine tasks as filling washouts, cleaning ditches, reclaiming
gravel, cutting roadside weeds, repairing guard rails, cleaning up
debris, and temporary patching of roads occupied most of the staff's
time. Other tasks, such as repairing water lines, painting signs,
keeping the buildings in repair, and servicing and repairing the area
equipment also required much attention. [177] The
cottage that the custodian and his family rented from Millard at Cedar
Pass was destroyed by fire on November 27, 1943. [178]
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Figure 22. CEDAR PASS, June 1950. The
buildings of Cedar Pass Lodge can be seen behind the white frame
structure, which served as a visitor center and headquarters until 1959.
Remnants of two spires on Vampire Peak remain on the left. It was
observed on November 22, 1950, that one of the two spires of this famous
landmark had fallen, apparently during a thunder storm. [189]
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During the ten years following the end of World War
II, there was slow progress in the area's development. Work on the
custodian's residence at Cedar Pass, begun in 1941, was completed in
1946. [179] Early in 1953 two additional houses,
both prefabricated, were completed. [180] In January
1948 commercial power was brought to Cedar Pass and Interior with the
completion of a single-phase power line by the Rural Electrification
Administration. [181] The Northwestern Bell Telephone
Company extended telephone service to the national monument
headquarters in September 1952. [182] (This service
was officially taken over by the Golden West Telephone Cooperative,
Inc., in October 1960.) [183]
During the travel seasons of 1946 and 1947 there was
much adverse criticism of the national monument roads. The maintenance
equipment was in poor condition and usually undergoing repairs when most
needed. [184] In the summer of 1948 about 4 miles of
road was black-topped between the Cedar Pass junction and Norbeck Pass;
this represented the first paving of U.S. Route 16A in the national
monument. [185] The present northeast entrance road,
about 3-1/2 miles long, was completed in October 1951. It opened up a
new area of the Badlands known as the Window Section. [186] This road was made possible by the donation in 1946
of a 160-acre, strategically located land parcel by Mr. Ben Millard who
had purchased it from Jackson County in March 1941 for this purpose. [187]
During the late 1940's and early 1950's buildings
constructed as temporary structures in the ERA and CCC period were
remodeled and continued in use for headquarters and utility purposes.
[188]
Both the grazing and the land ownership problems at
the national monument were compounded by the war. With increased
rainfall in the region during the decade of the 1940's and the rising
price of beef, the situation of the ranchers greatly improved. Under a
plan suggested by Congressman Case in January 1943 to help in the "Beef
for Victory Program," the Service authorized for the first time in April
the issuance of grazing permits on federally owned grasslands within the
national monument. Under this program, the lands were divided into seven
grazing units. An orderly grazing plan was established with the
cooperation of the Soil Conservation Service. [190]
Stricklin was able to identify and locate all cattle and sheep outfits
that claimed to be using the national monument lands in conjunction with
their SCS allotments. [191] Following the war
authorized grazing remained one of the area's major management problems
for over a decade.
Stricklin wrote about an interesting sidelight of the
grazing problem:
The roundup and disposal of several hundred head of
unclaimed and so-called wild horses in the Sage Creek basin was a source
of much concern on the part of both ranchers and the Custodian, the
ranchers claiming the wild stallions were enticing away their mares. The
Custodian's concern was partly because of the damage these herds were
doing to the range, but largely because it was practically the only
program of any kind on which the National Park Service and the ranchers
could even remotely agree. Several roundups were collaborated in, during
which the herds were drastically reduced. Airplanes were used on at
least one of the roundups to flush horses out of the canyons and keep
them from breaking back on their route to Scenic and the loading chutes.
Jack and Mamie Close, ranchers on Quinn Table, were the leaders among
the ranchers in this work. [192]
Feral horses were eventually eliminated through
roundups and returned to their owners. The last roundup took place in
the national monument in 1963. [193]
With the improvement of their lot, many ranchers who
had been destitute only a few years earlier were in a position to
purchase county lands within the national monument boundary. The
custodian reported in April 1943 that practically all such land within
the boundary was leased for grazing and that much of it was recently
bought by sheep and cattle ranchers. [194] In 1946
Stricklin reported a considerable change in land ownership where much of
the land formerly controlled by Pennington County had passed into
private ownership. [195] Later the same year Jackson
County auctioned all of its 3,000 acres of land within the boundary to
private individuals. Practically all of the 14,000 acres which was owned
by the two counties two years earlier had passed into private ownership.
[196]
The location of the boundary had been a subject of
discussion since the national monument was established in 1939. The area
contained a large acreage of grassland which the Soil Conservation
Service believed should be released for grazing purposes. There was also
overlapping jurisdiction between the two federal agencies. [197]
After several years of study, the NPS and the SCS
arrived at an understanding on the national monument boundary and mutual
land problems. In 1946 the two agencies signed an agreement known as
Recommended Program of Procedure for boundary adjustment of
Badlands National Monument. The NPS agreed:
(1) to transfer to the Soil Conservation Service NPS
lands outside the existing national monument boundary in order to
compensate for 1,220 acres the SCS had turned over for inclusion in the
national monument prior to its establishment in 1939;
(2) to transfer to the SCS equivalent lands (computed
on a livestock-carrying-capacity basis) for lands that were to be
acquired from the SCS by the NPS as the result of revised boundary
studies;
(3) to transfer to the SCS federal lands which the
NPS planned to eliminate from the national monument to use in exchange
for non-federal lands remaining in the national monument after the
boundary changes were made. [198]
The plan made it possible to transfer, without
legislation, 3,676.19 acres of NPS lands lying outside the park boundary
to the SCS. This was done by order of the Secretary of the Interior in
July 1949. [199] These lands were acquired under the
Resettlement Administration program and, in 1936 were transferred to the
NPS. When Badlands National Monument was established in 1939, these
lands were not within the boundary. [200]
In order to carry out the main objectives of the
plan, Congressional action was necessary. In 1950 bills (H.R. 7342 and
S. 3081) were introduced in the 81st Congress by Representative Case
and Senator Chandler Gurney to implement the proposed land exchange.
H.R. 7342 was passed by the House without amendment, but later the bill
died in the Senate. The senate bill (S. 3081) was not considered.
In 1951 Senator Francis H. Case, who had just been
elected to that office, and Congressman E.Y. Berry introduced identical
bills (S. 896 and H.R. 3540) in the 82nd Congress. These were similar to
the ones proposed a year earlier. Berry's bill passed the House on July
2, 1951, without amendment. The House Act was referred to the Senate
Committee on Interior and Insular Affairs, which recommended that
section five of H.R. 3540 be dropped. This section would have provided
authority to include 4,000 acres of the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation in
the Sheep Mountain area provided certain conditions were met. The
committee believed "that a satisfactory solution should be worked out
with the Tribal Council of the Oglala Sioux Tribe of Indians, and any
others interested, before legislation with regard to these lands is
enacted." [201] The bill in its amended form,
including another minor change recommended by the committee, passed the
Senate on January 24, 1952. [202]
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Figure 23. AREA CHANGES IN BADLANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT. [203] (click on image for an enlargement in a new window)
Area authorized | 50,843.40 acres |
Area upon establishment in 1939 | 154,119.46 acres |
Area after changes of 1952 | 122,642.52 acres |
Area after changes of 1957 (heavy line) | 111,529.82 acres |
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Acreage figures are latest available and may be different from figures
which were current during each of the four times the park boundary has
been redesignated. Because of these acreage revisions, additions to and
deletions from the park do not total correctly.
Shortly afterwards on February 8, telegrams were sent
to Congressmen Berry, Senator Case, and Senator Karl Mundt by the
executive committee of the tribal council of the Oglala Sioux Tribe.
The messages urged the congressmen to do their best to get Section 5
restored so it would be possible for the tribe to negotiate with the
federal government for exchange of the land in the Sheep Mountain area
for other lands. [204] The House, however, did not
heed this resolution but voted instead to concur with the Senate's
amended version. The bill became Public Law 328 after being signed by
President Harry S Truman on May 7, 1952. [205]
Under this law, the Secretary of the Interior was
authorized to adjust and redefine at his discretion the exterior
boundary of the national monument by appropriate reductions or
additions. The law specified, among other things, that the adjusted area
could not exceed the existing 154,119 acres. [206]
(An official figure of 150,103.41 acres was used as the total acreage of
the area at the time it was proclaimed as a national monument in 1939.
A revised figure, listing 154,119.46 acres for the same area, was used
as the total acreage from about 1943 until October 1952. [207])
Immediately after the bill became law, proposed
boundary changes received considerable attention. Some believed that the
area of the national monument should be reduced. A strong supporter of
this view was the South Dakota Stock Growers Association. It was the
organization's belief that the size could be reduced by about one-half
without destroying any of its scenic value. They estimated that 3,000
head of cattle would be without grass if the NPS carried through its
plan to fence the area and eliminate grazing from the national monument.
One of the biggest problems was the large acreage of private lands
located within its boundary. Many ranchers believed that these lands
ought to be eliminated "from the Badlands National Monument wherever a
reasonable boundary adjustment can be made." [208]
Others contended "that all of the grassland west of Pinnacles [Sage
Creek Basin] could be removed from the Park and that such removal would
in no way destroy the attraction to the tourist." [209]
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Figure 24. A PORTION OF SAGE CREEK
BASIN. In 1953 over 25,000 acres were recommended by the NPS for
deletion from this section of the national monument. [219] Later, studies revealed that the area
should be retained. Today it is home for bison, deer, pronghorn, prairie
dogs, and other animals. Sage Creek Primitive Campground is located in
its northwest section.
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A 1953 memorandum from the Regional Director to NPS
Director Conrad L. Wirth explained how Sage Creek Basin had become
largely government-owned:
Sage Creek Basin was a submarginal waste in the
1930's due to prolonged and severe drought conditions and considerable
acreages of private lands were acquired by the Resettlement
Administration in connection with its submarginal land program . . . .
Other private parcels became tax delinquent and were ultimately sold to
private owners by Pennington County in the 1940's. Because of favorable
climatic conditions of the past several years, the basin has recovered
from its condition of the 1930's; it now contains a considerable acreage
of good grasslands . . . . We venture the opinion that had vegetative
conditions of the basin in the 1930's resembled those of today, a
submarginal land program would not have been undertaken so far as the basin
is concerned. [210]
Owing to the great interest generated by the proposed
boundary changes, the NPS issued a statement in July 1952 giving reasons
why it would not be "advisable to eliminate from the Monument the
grasslands west of the Pinnacles, as suggested by the South Dakota Stock
Growers Association." [211] It said in part that
These flatter lands with their cover of native
grasses and wildflowers, typical of the surrounding prairie country,
are valuable for park and wildlife purposes. The preservation of this
relatively small exhibit of native grass is an important responsibility
in itself, since no comparable section of the Great Plains has been set
apart to be preserved in its natural condition. [212]
The statement also indicated that about 31,700 acres
of other lands were to be eliminated from the national monument,
including more than 12,000 acres of privately owned lands. It indicated
that the Soil Conservation Service agreed to these revisions and that
they were "the same as those which the Congress considered when it
authorized boundary revisions by enacting Public Law 328." [213]
On October 3, 1952, Assistant Secretary of the
Interior Joel D. Wolfsohn issued an order revising the boundary of the
national monument. The order showed that 30,802.52 acres, more or less,
were "hereby transferred from the Department of the Interior to the
Department of Agriculture for use, administration, and disposition in
accordance with the provisions of Title III of the Bankhead-Jones Farm
Tenant Act ..." This reduced the size of Badlands National Monument,
according to the order, to 121,883.12 acres. [214]
The Order was performed to provide lands for the Soil
Conservation Service to enable those persons having private land in the
monument to trade for Soil Conservation Service lands outside the
monument, and to make a few administrative adjustments in the monument
boundary. [215]
However, discrepancies in the land records led the
NPS to investigate the status of lands within the former boundary. [216] By late 1953 it was found that 31,442.52 acres were
eliminated from the national monument by the October 3 order instead of
30,802.52 acres. Of these 12,916.32 acres were private lands; the
remaining 18,526.20 acres were transferred to the Soil Conservation
Service of the Department of Agriculture. [217]
There were also lands totaling about 4,449 acres
added to the national monument by the October 3 order; these lands
included
"2,581.88 acres of public domain, 336.88 acres of
purchased land, 981.79 acres of Soil Conservation Service land and
548.56 acres of private land . . . . The net result of the boundary
adjustments was a loss of 26,993.23 acres of land in Badlands National
Monument." [218]
Even before the October 3 order was enacted there was
already talk about further reduction of the area boundary. In a
memorandum dated December 5, 1952, Director Wirth wrote to the Regional
Director in charge of Badlands National Monument:
The basis for a final solution [of the boundary
problem at Badlands National Monument] lies in a reassessment and
restatement of Monument objectives and significance. If it is found, as
appears likely, that our chief concern and purpose should be with the
badlands formations, then the boundaries should be drawn accordingly,
with due regard for badlands protection, interpretation and attendant
development needs. If we are to retain some or all of the grasslands, we
must have strong and valid justification for doing so and be prepared to
disclose and defend what specific Monument purposes and uses they are to
serve. [220]
In order to determine if the grasslands west of
Pinnacles should be kept, the NPS contracted with a number of prominent
scientists to make studies of the area in 1953. Dr. Theodore E. White, a
paleontologist with the Smithsonian Institution, determined in June 1953
whether or not potentially fossiliferous areas would be excluded by
proposed boundary readjustments. [221] Late that
summer archeological investigations were undertaken by Archeologist Paul
L. Beaubien of the NPS Regional Office in Omaha, Nebraska. He recorded
some 30 prehistoric Indian sites and one historic Indian site believed
to have been used by Chief Big Foot's band a few days before the
infamous battle at Wounded Knee in December 1890. [222]
Professor F.W. Albertson of Fort Hays Kansas State
College submitted a Report of Study of Grassland Areas of Badlands
National Monument in September. In brief he said, "it seems to me
that the Park Service has an extremely interesting area, which should
be preserved for all interested public through the years to come." [223]
Meanwhile, support grew for retention of the
boundaries as spelled out by the October 3, 1952, secretarial order. The
Rapid City Chapter of the Izaak Walton League of America, the South
Dakota State Highway Commission, the South Dakota Department of Game,
Fish and Parks, the Black Hills and Badlands Association, and prominent
local persons, including Sid Soma, Dr. G.W. Mills, Ted Hustead, and
Leonel Jensen, all from the town of Wall, were but a few of the many who
advocated retention of the present boundary. [224]
Although the South Dakota Stock Growers Association
and some local ranching interests continued to advocate "the transfer of
administration of all grazing lands within the monument not needed for
road and development purposes," it became evident to these people that
opposition was building up against further acreage reduction in the
park. [225]
In April 1954 the NPS recommended no boundary changes
until the problem was explored further. Director Wirth said:
it seems apparent that there is a very considerable
number of people . . . which strongly support the retention of the
Badlands National Monument not only as a striking example of geological
formations, with areas of paleontological interest, but also for
preservation of a segment of the plains grassland and native wildlife as
added attractions. On the other hand, there is also a difficult problem
of inholdings and grazing complications, with strong sentiment from the
livestock owners for a reduction of the Monument. [226]
He recommended, among other things, that exchanges of
private land inside the boundary for federal lands outside be pushed
vigorously, and that Dr. Adolph Murie, NPS Biologist, should study the
wildlife possibilities of the national monument. [227]
In his report Dr. Murie said:
Badlands National Monument has national significance,
first of all because it is a sample of the Badlands. The values of this
monument are of outstanding significance in the fields of geology,
paleontology, archeology, and biology. The eroded terrain has scenic
value for many, and in Sage Creek Basin and in the section north of
Cedar Pass one finds the atmosphere of the early scene, when this
country was far beyond the frontier . . . .
In Sage Creek Basin we have an opportunity to
preserve the prairie dog-blackfooted ferret community, with many other
associated species of the region . . . . Likewise the rare kit fox may
possibly be preserved in the basin. The value of Sage Creek Basin for
preserving these rare native species is contingent on size and its
present size is none too large . . . .
Concerning boundaries in general over the monument it
appears that any eliminations would be harmful to public values. Only in
minor details, in connection with land adjustments, should any territory
be sacrificed. Sage Creek Basin, especially, should not be reduced [228]
Also during the summer of 1954, the NPS requested Dr.
James D. Bump, Director of Museum of Geology of the South Dakota School
of Mines and Technology at Rapid City, to make a geological and
paleontological appraisal of Badlands National Monument. Quotations from his
report point out his strong feelings for the area:
The Big Badlands of South Dakota, from a
paleontological standpoint, probably constitutes the richest Oligocene
region in the world . . . . [The quantity of] paleontological materials
given up to man over the past 100 years is of astounding proportions.
This prehistorical treasure represents more than 250 species of the
vertebrate life of thirty million years ago . . . .
The Badlands National Monument is a part of the
greatest badland-eroded section in North America . . . . I can think of
no other geographic area of like-size that has the unusual natural
beauty, the undisturbed plant and animal life and the wealth of
scientific information to offer the public . . . . [229]
He ended his report by making a number of
recommendations, some of which follow:
The present boundaries must remain intact. Removal of
any lands, except perhaps some thin scattered fringes, would seriously
cripple future development and greatly reduce the attractiveness of the
Monument . . . .
Under no circumstances should any part of the Sage
Creek Basin be withdrawn. Its scientific and natural value cannot be
overestimated and it is my opinion that this section will in the future
become one of the most interesting and educational of the entire
Monument. [230]
As a result of Dr. Murie's wildlife study and Dr.
Bump's geological and paleontological appraisal, the Service began
formulating definite ideas in April 1955 concerning further revision of
the boundary. An elimination of 11,124 acres including 4,234 acres of
privately owned lands was proposed. This is only about one-third of the
32,000 acres which was being widely talked about as a possible reduction
in size during 1953. The larger reduction would have included much of
the grasslands west of Pinnacles. Addition of 4,460 acres, including
3,954 acres of Pine Ridge Indian Reservation lands and 246 acres of
Department of the Army lands located on the Indian reservation, was also
proposed. Net reduction in area would be about 6,664 acres. [231]
Since the mid-1930's there have been various
suggestions that a road be constructed to connect Sage Creek Basin with
the Sheep Mountain locality. Although it was not in the master plan for
the national monument in the 1950's, planning for the ultimate boundary
was done so that the road could be built if ultimately needed. [232] However, Dr. Murie recommended against the road
proposal in his report. [233]
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Figure 25. BADLANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT
VISITOR CENTER. Dedicated in 1959, the building houses the national
monument's administrative offices, exhibits on the Badlands, and a small
theater in which there are narrated slide programs on the highlights of
the Badlands. The facility is open all year.
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On April 12, 1956, an open meeting was held in Wall,
South Dakota, to discuss proposed boundary changes with ranchers,
stockmen, and local businessmen. No opposition to the proposals was
voiced. The meeting also provided an opportunity for discussion of
development plans, including fencing and grazing matters. [234]
On March 22, 1957, Acting Secretary of the Interior
Hatfield Chilson issued an order eliminating 11,234.09 acres from the
national monument, of which about 4,000 acres were private land. The
total area of Badlands National Monument was fixed at 111,529.82 acres.
This also included an addition of 240 acres of federal land which, among
other things, increased the utility area at headquarters and provided a
much needed disposal area. An additional 1.39 acres of federal land,
located along the White River three miles south of headquarters, were
added, since water storage tanks and a water pump, all part of the
area's water system, are located there. More than 7,000 acres of the
11,234.09-acre reduction were transferred to the Department of
Agriculture, under provisions of the Bankhead-Jones Farm Tenant Act, and
became available for exchange for private land remaining inside the new
boundary. As a result of the secretarial order, there was a net
reduction of 10,992.70 acres in the size of the national monument. The
new boundary included 98,486.39 acres in federal ownership and 13,043.43
acres of non-federal land. [235] Since then, the
Service has acquired title to 6,356.71 acres of the non-federal land
within the boundary. As of December 1967 there were 104,843.10 acres of
federal land and 6,686.72 acres of non-federal land within the boundary
of Badlands National Monument. [236]
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Figure 26. RIBBON-CUTTING CEREMONY AT
BADLANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT DEDICATION, SEPTEMBER 16, 1959. Left to
Right: NPS Regional Director Howard Baker, Region Two (now Midwest
Region); Conrad Wirth, NPS Director; Fred Seaton, Secretary of the
Interior; Congressman E.Y. Berry; Mrs. George H. Sholly, widow of
Badlands National Monument Superintendent; Mrs. Ralph Herseth; and
Governor Ralph Herseth of South Dakota.
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On January 2, 1954, the Secretary of Agriculture
transferred the Land Utilization Program, including lands in the
vicinity of the national monument, from the Soil Conservation Service to
the U.S. Forest Service. [237] This, in part,
prompted a Program of Procedure for Land Exchanges, a revision of the
Recommended Program of Procedure, to be drafted. The new agreement
was signed in September 1954 by officials of both services. It states in
part that all future land exchanges are to be handled by the Forest
Service. This includes exchanges with private parties who own land
inside the national monument boundary. One objective of such land
exchanges is to eliminate all non-federal lands from within Badlands
National Monument. [238] Since 1954 elimination of
such lands has come about largely through exchanges, although in a few
instances actual purchases were made.
Concurrently with boundary adjustments, the NPS gave
considerable thought to a grazing management plan for the area whereby
grazing might be eliminated without serious hardship to the local
ranchers. As a result the Service presented a plan in May 1948 to
grazing permittees outlining a schedule for the gradual termination of
grazing on federally owned national monument lands by December 31, 1961.
[239]
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