Sulphide Glacier/Summit Pyramid: 8/5-8/7

August 11, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers
Shannon Ridge trail - Sulphide Glacier –Mt Shuksan

Trail up to Shannon Ridge is a bit brushy in places but over all in good condition. Shannon Ridge is snow free up to and over the "notch". Snow patches start just after the "notch" at 5,700' and there is continuous snow from 6,200' on up. Lower bivy sites (6,200') have melted out. Running water can be found below the rocks. Lower composting toilet is open for use. Upper composting toilet is also melted out and open for use. Please, please, please don't throw garbage (including left over food) in the composting toilets! It cost roughly $1,000 to empty each one of the toilets! 

Sulphide glacier is in good condition –no significant crevasse navigation required. Snow is hard and crampons recommended. 

Central gully of the summit pyramid has one patch of snow lower down. With the snow gone the rock fall hazard has significantly increased. When there are several parties in the central gully it might be safer to climb the SE Ridge. It's a little more technical (mostly Class 4 with a few low 5th class moves) but the rock is clean and there is low objective hazard. And please remember –permits are REQUIRED for camping in the National Park! Rangers patrol this busy area often and will turn back parties without a permit. Don't ruin your climbing plans –get a permit. They are still free!

-Climbing Rangers 

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Last updated: August 11, 2016

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