Forbidden Peak (North Ridge) 8/5-6

August 07, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers
Forbidden Peak: North Ridge 8/6 

Boston Basin is melting out quickly –all upper bivy sites are exposed. The marmots are chirping, wildflowers are going off, and a bear was spotted by the lower bivy –DON'T FORGET YOUR ANIMAL RESISTANT FOOD CONTAINER! North ridge was accessed via the Sharkfin Col alternative (up the snow/scree gully to climbers right of the Col proper). Two short rappels (approx. 20m) on existing slings (as of our patrol) bring you to the Boston Glacier. One 60m rope is sufficient. The Boston glacier is a little broken up and crevassed en route to the N. Ridge but very doable. The moat at 7600' to gain access to the N. Ridge is very manageable right now. There is a small patch of snow once on the ridge that was dripping heavily by 8am to fill water bottles. No surprises along the ridge. Descent was via the gullies below the West Ridge col with good rappel stations along the way.

Boston Glacier and North Ridge:

Boston Glacier

Approximately 2/3 of the way up the North Ridge:
2/3 of the way up the North Ridge

The North Ridge:
Looking down North Ridge

 -Climbing Rangers

2 Comments Comments icon

  1. August 11, 2016 at 11:06

    Hi Amanda, Sorry for the delay, we've been out climbing! The snow gully accessing Sharkfin is melting fast, we hesitate to say that things are "in" or "out", but it's days are numbered. As far as the Quien Sabe, see our recent post on Boston Peak for a photo. It is in pretty good condition still. Thanks for reading!

  2. August 07, 2016 at 07:02

    Thanks for the update! Did you notice how the snow gully looks accessing Sharkfin from Boston Basin? And the Quien Sabe glacier to Sahale?

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Last updated: August 7, 2016

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