Route- The first section of the ascent up the chimney could be climbed on snow free rock, after the first rappel anchor the gully becomes snow-filled again. There is plenty of water running down the gully presently. We were unable to climb above this point due to poor weather, but could see the upper section including the Hell’s Highway and the transition onto the Sulphide glacier through some intermittent clearing. These sections looked easily passable, with snow on the climber’s left section of the Hourglass.
Permits- Remember that you need a Price XC zone permit if you plan to bivy anywhere beyond the National Park boundary, which is about ¼ mile before you enter the Chimneys section. You can self-issue for the Price zone if there are permits available at the Glacier Public Service Center, as long as your group size is 4 or less.
Lake Ann Basin, still quite snowy!
Western side of Mt. Shuksan, with the Upper and Lower Curtis glaciers in view:
