Last updated: September 8, 2014
Approach route is still steep :) No water available until the top of the boulder field, where the creek is crossed. Plenty of water available in Eldorado Basin, where bivi sites on grass/bare ground are available (food storage canister required here). Some flat slabs below the last climb to the Eldorado Glacier are melted out and are suitable bivi sites- blue bags required here. A few small crevasses are showing on the Eldorado Glacier before the East Ridge bivi sites, some parties choose to rope up for this section. Many bivi sites melted out at the base of the East Ridge. The toilet can be tricky to find with so much rock exposed- look toward the south end of the rock outcropping containing the bivi sites. The East Ridge is in descent shape, a few crevasses open but still negotiable. The entire ridge can also be climbed on 3rd class rock at this time.
The Inspiration Glacier has large crevasses open, but is still negotiable. The descent into Marble Creek cirque for Dorado Needle SW ridge and Early Morning Spire is steep snow and melted out slabs and gravel. For more info on these routes, try Cascade Climbers or other trip report websites.
-summit ridge of Eldorado
-view from the East Ridge bivi sites