Last updated: May 26, 2015
The approach route is snow free until just before Eldorado Basin is gained (about 5,000 ft). The boulder fields are completely melted out, water is available at stream crossing just below Eldorado Basin. Expect solid snow from Eldorado Basin and beyond, although snow is rapidly melting with warm spring weather. The gully descending from the ridge down into Roush basin is melting out, with a large moat at the bottom that requires downclimbing on rock/dirt on the side. Watch for holes in the snow at this point- the boulderfield here is beginning to melt out. Straightforward snow travel leads to the Eldorado Glacier plateau, where there are as of yet no crevasses open. The East Ridge Bivi site area has a few bivi sites melted out, and the composting toilet is also melted out and available. The East Ridge Eldorado route is in fairly good shape- some moats and crevasses beginning to open up, but easily negotiable. The summit snow arete is steep and exposed, but not corniced.
Crevasses are beginning to open up on the Inspiration Glacier. Mid summer conditions exist on the glaciers- expect to see large crevasses earlier than normal this year. Reports from climbers state that the regular route on Dorado Needle is accesible and has no moat issues at this time. Parties found a little bit of snow on the route as of 5/18.
Please bring blue bags into this area, even if you plan on camping near the toilet. You never know when the urge might strike or if you will need to camp elsewhere. Excessive amounts of feces were found on snow camping sites over Memorial Weekend. Let's take care of our beloved mountain recreation areas.