Bivy Sites below chimneys, and above and below Winnies Slide are all free of snow. Running water can be found at all these locations. The Chimneys themselves are mostly snow free, and what is left can be avoided. All crevasses are easily navigable on the Upper Curtis and also on the Sulphide. Steep snow at Winnies Slide and Hells Highway is soft enough during the day that ice screws are not yet needed for protection. Shuksan summit pyramid couloir is about 40% snow covered. The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. Permits are required to camp beyond this point and can be obtained for free at the Glacier Public Service Center. Please use blue bags if planning on camping anywhere above Lake Ann, which can also be obtained at the Glacier Public Service Center.
-Climbing Rangers