Perils of Opportunity - The Mining Towns

The flow of miners grew around the turn of the 20th Century as word spread of gold that was just lying around on the ground. Nevada boom towns like Tonopah, Goldfield, Rhyolite, and Beatty paved the path southward along what is now U.S. Highway 95. From Rhyolite, old-timers like “Shorty” Harris led new arrivals into Death Valley and its nearby mountains, where they sometimes found deposits of valuable minerals. Millions of dollars of gold, silver, and copper were eventually extracted from some of these mines, but the richest discovery ended up being borax.

The increase in the number of prospectors led to tensions between Native Americans and miners, who typically had little respect for Native rights. The federal government intervened to maintain order while pressuring native people to give up mineral-rich lands.

 

Tonopah Mizpah Mine - 1904

Tonopah, Nevada was the site of one of the richest mining booms in the West. Silver was discovered in 1900 and by 1921, $121 million in silver had been extracted. The town became a major outpost in the Nevada desert, supplying the prospectors that rushed in, including those who travelled to Rhyolite to the south. The Great Depression slowed down production, and then a huge fire in 1942 destroyed much of the remaining mining operations.

 
People and buildings with mountain in background. People and buildings with mountain in background.

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Credit: Tonopah Historic Mining Park

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Greenwater in Snow - 1906

The town of Greenwater, located along the Furnace Creek Wash, not far from Dante’s View, was established in early 1906 after the discovery of significant copper-laden ore on the surface. The discovery led to a spectacular short-lived boom. Within a year, Greenwater Valley had over 2,000 inhabitants in four towns, with 73 incorporated mining companies and $140 million in capitalization. Miners flooded in from Rhyolite, Tonopah, and Goldfield. The town quickly transitioned from a tent city to a town with wooden structures; it boasted two stores, a hotel, restaurant, two corrals, and a post office. The Las Vegas & Tonopah Railroad mapped out the best route into the area.

At an elevation of 4,288 feet, the Greenwater boom began to lose its luster with a series of unprecedented snow storms in late 1906. The price of greasewood grew to $300 for the equivalent of a cord. Water, which was very scarce despite the snow and proximity to the Furnace Creek Wash, had to be trucked in from 25 miles away and the price doubled to $20 per barrel!

 
Tents and wooden buildings with snow on the ground Tents and wooden buildings with snow on the ground

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Credit: NPS/Elyscia Letterman

 

Beatty Main Street - 1906

Montillion Beatty, a former Gold Mountain miner and Amargosa Borax worker, took over the old Lander ranch about 20 miles east of Daylight Pass in 1896. He lived there quietly with his Shoshone wife until Shorty Harris and Ed Cross found gold nearby in 1904, giving rise to the Bullfrog Mining District. At that point, Beatty sold the ranch for $10,000, gave his name to the town, and started a new ranch at Cow Creek.

The town of Beatty became the southern terminus of the Bullfrog & Goldfield Railroad and northern terminus of the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad. It was the transportation and supply center for all of the surrounding mining districts.

 
Wooden buildings, dirt street, and mountains in background. Wooden buildings, dirt street, and mountains in background.

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Credit: Images of America: Death Valley by Robert Palazzo 2008 Arcadia Publishing

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Skidoo Baseball Team - 1907

Despite its short life as a prosperous town, Skidoo developed a vibrant community. They had two baseball teams - a mine team and a town team. In this photograph, they are posed next to the Skidoo Dance Hall after a game on July 4th. The white uniforms have “23 BBC” which stands for 23 (Skidoo) Base Ball Club. Behind the baseball team, a group of men move a piano over to the dance hall.

“23 Skidoo” is the basis of the Skidoo town name. The catch phrase is an off-shoot of “skedaddle”, a Civil War creation drawn from the Greek skedannumi, meaning a “riotous retreat”.

 
Young men in baseball uniforms next to building. Young men in baseball uniforms next to building.

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Credit: Death Valley National Park Museum

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Skidoo from Above - 1908

The town of Skidoo was located in the Panamint Mountains, northeast of Emigrant Canyon. In its heyday, the gold mining town had a population of 500, a newspaper, a bank, a school, a brothel, telephone service, and at least one saloon. However, it was prosperous for less than two years.

 
Buildings scattered in desert valley. Buildings scattered in desert valley.

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Credit: Works Progress Administration Collection Los Angeles Public Library

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Goldfield Boom Days - ca. 1908

From 1906 to 1910, Goldfield was the largest city in Nevada. Located south of Tonopah, it became the leading political and economic power in the state with a population of over 20,000. Virgil Earp was the sheriff, and his brother Wyatt lived there for a time.

By 1910, gold production was in steep decline and the population dropped below 5,000. Then in 1913, a major flood damaged many buildings and in 1923, a terrible fire burned most of the town to the ground. Today, there are less than 250 residents.

 
Wagons, people and buildings with mountain in background. Wagons, people and buildings with mountain in background.

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Credit: UNLV Library, Giles-Barcus Collection

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Rhyolite from Above - 1909

After Shorty Harris’s discovery of gold at Bullfrog in 1904, the town of Rhyolite sprang up and grew to 10,000 citizens within two years. People thought the Bullfrog and neighboring mining districts would last a long time, so they built tall and sturdy buildings of stone and masonry. The Montgomery-Shoshone Mine, one of the largest in the district, was purchased by Charles Schwab in 1906 for between 2-6 million dollars.

 
Buildings and streets with mountains in background. Buildings and streets with mountains in background.

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Credit: Images of America: Death Valley by Robert Palazzo 2008 Arcadia Publishing

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Rhyolite Miners Union Parade - 1909

The financial panic of 1907 took its toll on Rhyolite and was seen as the beginning of the end for the town. In the next few years, mines started closing and banks failed. Newspapers went out of business, and by 1910 the production at the mill had slowed to $246,661 and only 611 residents remained in town. On March 14, 1911 the directors voted to close down the Montgomery Shoshone mine and mill. In 1916 Rhyolite’s light and power were finally turned off.

 
Men marching past buildings with mountains in background. Men marching past buildings with mountains in background.

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Credit: Beatty Museum

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Rhyolite Train Depot - 1920

Rhyolite’s rapid growth as a mining center brought three railroads to service the town and surrounding mining district. The Las Vegas & Tonopah sent its first train into Rhyolite on December 14, 1906 with 100 passengers. By 1907, The Las Vegas & Tonopah railroad was hauling 50 freight cars a day into town, which necessitated the building of a large depot.

The depot was completed in June, 1908 around the same time that Rhyolite began its decline. Soon after its completion, the depot saw more people leaving town than arriving. The railroad shut down in 1919. Subsequently, the depot has served as a casino, brothel, museum and gift shop for tourists. The Bureau of Land Management in Tonopah is working to restore the building.

 
Old building with car in front Old building with car in front

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Credit: WesternMiningHistory.com, UNLV Digital Collections

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Darwin Saloon - ca. 1910

In 1874, Darwin was one of three areas west of Death Valley (Darwin, Panamint, and Lookout), where significant deposits of silver were discovered. The town was founded by the prospector Dr. Eramus Darwin French, who also named Furnace Creek when he found a small, air-blast smelting furnace in that creek.

Within two years, this rugged town had a hotel, three restaurants, seven saloons, two butcher shops, a livery stable and several stores, but no church. As early as 1915, the Bureau of Indian Affairs removed Timbisha children to Darwin schools, far from their families.

Darwin began its decline in 1878 when mining profits diminished substantially. However, mining continued in pockets and began to recover in the early 20th Century when Darwin became California’s largest lead supplier, providing 2/3 of the state’s lead.

 
Boys sitting on steps with old car driving by. Boys sitting on steps with old car driving by.

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Leadfield from Above - ca. 1925

Lead and copper were first discovered in Leadfield in Titus Canyon in 1905 but after some effort, mining companies decided that the cost to ship ore across the mountains to Rhyolite made operations unprofitable.

However, in 1924, a new set of prospectors staked out claims on lead deposits in the area and sold them to a group of investors who established the Western Lead Mines Company, which sold 1.5 million shares at $0.10 each. The camp started to boom as other mining companies began operations.

In early 1927, a well-known oil promoter from Southern California, C. C. Julian, bought the Western Lead Mines Company. The boom accelerated, a road was built across the mountains to Beatty, and trucks streamed in carrying timber, machinery, and supplies.

Unfortunately, Western Lead Mines had not secured a permit to sell stock, and California authorities clamped down on Julian, effectively wiping out his investment in Leadfield. In addition, drilling efforts failed to find the high-grade lead ore that was expected. Mines started to shut down and companies were sued by miners for back wages and debts. In early 1927, the post office shut down.

Today, Leadfield is a popular stop for backcountry drivers along the rugged Titus Canyon Road.

 
Old buildings in desert valley. Old buildings in desert valley.

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Credit: Images of America: Ghost Towns of Death Valley by Robert Palazzo 2014 Arcadia Publishing

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Amargosa Hotel and Pacific Coast Borax Co. - ca. 1925

The Pacific Coast Borax Company was established in late 1890 by Francis Marion Smith (also known as the Borax King). Smith bought all of the assets of William Coleman, the San Francisco mining entrepreneur who had established the Harmony Borax Works near Furnace Creek. Smith hired a young Stephen T. Mather to head the company’s advertising and promotion efforts. Mather later became the National Park Service’s first director and played and key role in the establishment of Death Valley National Monument. Mather was largely responsible for the “Twenty-Mule-Team Borax” product name.

Borax is also known as sodium borate. It is used in a variety of applications including in soaps, as a pesticide, in tanning of skins and hides, as a preservative against wood fungus, and as an alkalizer.

 
Men in front of old stucco building with car in front. Men in front of old stucco building with car in front.

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Credit: California State Library ID C)001394283CSL01-Aleph

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

 

Journigans Mine and Milling Company - ca. 1940

Several mining towns were located in and around Emigrant Canyon, including Skidoo and Harrisburg. Transporting ore to distant smelters was an expensive and arduous endeavor. In 1934, Roy Journigan bought this mill site and water rights to four local streams in lower Emigrant Canyon. He built the mill which increased mine owners’ profits by reducing the distance they needed to transport the heavy raw ore.

During the 1930s to 1950s, Journigan’s Mill was the largest amalgamation and cyanide plant within what is now Death Valley National Park. It also had the longest contiguous usage of a site for milling-related activities within the park.

 
Buildings with desert mountains in background Buildings with desert mountains in background

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Credit: Photographer: George A. Grant; Death Valley National Park Museum #28007

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Credit: NPS/Ted Barone

Last updated: August 9, 2022

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