The “Whale’s Tail” is a ridgeline nested between the Tokositna and Ruth Glaciers. It is a beautiful feature resembling the tail of a whale with the Tokosha Mountains forming the fluke of the tail. Traversing this ridge has become popular in the last few years as a backpacking and packrafting combination trip. Many visitors have attempted or completed this trip and we have some suggestions for those considering this adventure in the summer. A high percentage of these attempts ended with a rescue or had unexpected challenges including injury, medical emergency, deep snow (in July) requiring a difficult alternate route, and slow progress due to white-out conditions. The Whale’s Tail trip typically begins with a float plane drop-off at Backside Lake. The route involves ascending to the ridgeline, hiking the ridge to the Tokosha Mountains, and descending through the brush to the Tokositna River for a float to Talkeetna via the Tokositna, Chulitna, and Susitna Rivers.
Looking upglacier towards the Ruth Gorge. Photo courtesy of Luc Mehl.
Plan ahead and prepare
There are no trails, signs, bridges, or designated routes on the Whale’s Tail. Take plenty of time to plan and prepare for this trip. There is also no cell phone coverage on a majority of the route so do not plan on downloading anything or making calls while in the field.
Fitness
We rescued a few individuals from this area of the Park that did not have the fitness or comfort with their gear and equipment to complete this route. You’ll need to be physically fit to carry a heavy load and climb and descend thousands of feet through a variety of terrain. Train with the clothing, footwear, and equipment you will use on the trip.
A class five section of the ridge that should be avoided unless people have the skills and equipment. (NPS Photo / Dalpes)
Water safety
The Tokositna, Chulitna, and Susitna Rivers are typically Class I and II in difficulty. However, these ratings don’t account for the silty water (it is hard to see rocks), swift current, and very cold water. A swim could be life-threatening. Wood hazards are common along the banks and as log jams. Water levels vary throughout the summer, so get current information on river conditions from Rangers or local pilots. A dry suit and Coast Guard approved PFD should be worn, and many paddlers will feel more comfortable in a helmet as well. Alaska’s rivers are unforgiving—a packraft safety or swiftwater rescue course is recommended for any paddlesport adventure.
Navigation
The summer of 2023 was a particularly wet one and there were many days the Whale’s Tail ridge was wrapped in clouds. The ridge is not straightforward and includes a lot of elevation gain and loss. We recommend researching the route in depth with your favorite mapping tools and satellite imagery. We also recommend having these tools available to you to use offline while on the route, and a paper map and compass in case your technology fails. The terrain you will be traveling includes brush, scree, talus, and alpine meadows. There are a few sections of the ridge that are class 5 and require class 5 skills and equipment or an alternate route. If you are traveling to the river from the alpine, expect a significant bushwack that requires some tenacity and grit. The prep work you did with your mapping tools and imagery can help you choose your line.
Plan on some dense bushwhacking to get around the more challenging sections of the ridge. (NPS Photo/Dalpes)Contingency Plans
This year there was deep snow on the ridge well into July, and a few groups decided to take an alternate route due to this snow cover and poor visibility. We recommend having contingency plans if you run into these conditions. Your contingency could include taking a different route or exploring the Backside Lake area and getting picked up there. If one of your contingencies includes crossing a glacier you will need glacier travel training, skills, and equipment. The rivers that flow into the Tokositna have a different character and grade so be sure to do that additional research. Ensure you have plenty of time to complete the route. Include extra time as most groups that complete this route walk fewer miles in a day than a typical backpacking trip. Bring extra food in case you experience an unexpected situation.Medical Considerations
One trip on the Whale’s Tail ended this summer with a medical emergency. The individual is allergic to bees and had an anaphylactic reaction to multiple bee stings while bushwacking a section of the route. The team had planned for this emergency and had the appropriate medications and training, which allowed for a positive outcome. Ensure you are knowledgeable about your partner's medical conditions and have the appropriate training, medications, and supplies to handle any injury or illness. This is a remote trip with few options for rescue.Communication
Bring a two-way form of communication and ensure you are proficient with its use. This could be a satellite texting device such as an InReach or Zolio or a satellite phone. Designate a friend who is knowledgeable about the area and route to be your “in-town contact.” This person may be able to help if you have a problem that is not life-threatening. Program your air taxi’s contact information into your device in case you need to ask for a pickup.
An alpine lake at the headwaters of Second Creek (NPS Photo / Dalpes)
Rescue
We recommend having a communication device that has SOS capability. The time to use the SOS button is when you have an immediate threat to your life, limb, or eyesight (or something that will become life-threatening soon). If you have an injury or illness that is manageable, not life-threatening, and you are able to walk, we recommend you make your way back to Backside Lake for a pickup with the operator that dropped you off. This is a remote area with unpredictable weather so rescue operations may be delayed hours or even days.
Denali National Park specifics
You will be traveling within Denali National Park, so we advise that you contact us at the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station to pay your entrance fee and fill out a voluntary backcountry permit. Details about your group, including your forms of communication, supplies, and coloration of your equipment, will help us in the event that you need assistance. The park service HIGHLY recommends the use of approved Bear Resistant Food Containers to store all your food and scented items. This will protect your food and our wildlife. Bears that obtain human food tend to become problematic and ultimately need to be removed from the area. Bear Resistant Food Containers (BRFCs) - Denali National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
Be prepared for whiteout fog conditions on the route. (NPS Photo / Dalpes)
Partners
Choose partners for this trip that have the appropriate skills, abilities, and good communication style to manage challenging situations like rain, cold, bugs, too much sun, a bear encounter, relentless bushwacking, or a medical emergency.
Wildlife
We recommend carrying bear spray and doing some research on how to behave in bear country. Safety - Denali National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)Leave No Trace
Please ensure you follow “Leave No Trace” principles to leave the environment exactly the way you found it for future generations. Leave No Trace - Denali National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)This is a challenging trip that can be very rewarding with the right preparation, skills, equipment and mindset.