Backcountry Users
As of Monday morning, there are 69 registered backcountry users at lower elevation sites in the Alaska Range. This includes teams that are skiing on the Buckskin and Pika glaciers, and climbers looking to get on routes in the Ruth and on Huntington. Some of these teams have been on the glacier for a few weeks waiting for their weather window.
Reports from the range continue to highlight stormy weather. One user coming out from the Pika reported 6-8 feet of snow over the course of their week-long trip. Many users have reported significant avalanches, especially in the aprons of skiing and climbing routes. For those looking to fly into the range, plan around difficult travel conditions and careful avalanche assessment.
Thanks to Taggart Cole for this photo taken on April 29th looking up at Ham and Eggs on the Mooses Tooth. Similar avalanches have been reported throughout the Alaska range.
Basecamp
Basecamp is up and running! Multiple guided groups and independent climbers are currently at Kahiltna base camp. The air taxis’ base camp manager has moved in for the season, and park service infrastructure has been set up. A huge thanks to Joe Richart and his base camp patrol volunteers, as well as rangers Jake Kayes and Forrest Madsen for all the hard work they put in getting camp established.
Ranger Kakiko Ramos-Leon and volunteers Kevin McGarity and Tatum Scheibler will head into Basecamp later this week. The weather forecast suggests they might have some shoveling in their future...
Setting up Basecamp infrastructure involves lots of shoveling. Our medical and communications tent needs to be deep enough in the snow that it will last for the next two months as snow melts and temperatures rise. Photo from F. Madsen.
A brief sun break in an otherwise stormy week. Photo from F. Madsen
West Buttress
West Buttress season is about to kick off, and climbers are on the mountain! As of the morning of Monday, May 4th, we have 11 climbers on the route. The first park service West Buttress patrol of the year flew into basecamp last week and is currently at Camp 2. This year ranger Joey McBrayer is joined by return volunteers Joe Grout, Andrea Tupy, and Carter Keene, as well as first time volunteer Dane Setzer. Additionally, ranger Scotty Barrier will accompany the team to 14,000 ft camp, providing added trail breaking and shoveling support on this labor-intensive first patrol.
The team reports deep snow, difficult trail breaking, and poor visibility on the lower glacier. Despite the travel difficulties, spirits remain high. Send them warm thoughts, and hopefully they get more sunny days soon!
West Buttress patrol #1 from left to right: Scotty Barrier, Joe Grout, Andrea Tupy, Dane Setzer, Carter Keene, and Joseph McBrayer.
Alaska Range Patrols
Ranger Chrissy Oken and volunteers Kailyn McGrath, Andy Paul, and Madison Corwell are scheduled to fly to the Muldrow this week when the weather breaks. The team plans to explore the lower glacier and assess the viability of traveling through the icefall.
Since the glacier surged in 2020 there have been no teams climbing on the Muldrow. With the park road scheduled to reopen, hopefully the glacier has healed enough to allow teams to return to the north side in future years.