|
TODAY'S STATS - 5/31/23 |
Denali |
Mt. Foraker |
|
Registered Climbers |
993 |
8 |
|
Climbers Currently On Mountain |
589 |
6 |
|
Completed Climbs |
113 |
2 |
|
Number of Summits |
39 |
0 |
|
Summit Percentage |
35% |
0% |
|
The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127. |
Mountain Weather
7K -- (6:40 am) From Gabby: 20 F, calm, with completely obscured skies.
11K -- (7:49 am) Kakiko reported: "below the cloud deck. I can see Kahiltna Pass, but not towards Windy Corner.
Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation.
MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams.
The National Weather Service publishes their mountain-specific forecast here: Denali Climbing Forecast
The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier has yet to be installed for the 2023 season, but we'll let you now when its up and operational.
Conditions Reports
West Buttress (May 28) per NPS Rangers Dalpes/McBrayer/Ramey currently at 14K
The upper mountain is getting busy! We observed about 100 climbers ascending to high camp on 5/27.
The fixed lines are in good shape and steps are improving with the amount of use they are receiving.
Our patrol arrived at 14 camp on 5/24. Motorcycle hill had several open crevasses and squirrel hill had some blue ice. A path is starting to form at Windy Corner, but it is mostly blue ice as well.
A note for skiers: conditions above 11 camp are still firm with blue ice beneath variable amounts of new and wind affected snow. If you intend to ski above 14 camp we recommend climbing the slope you intend to ski. Surface conditions change substantially on a 4-5,000’ slope. Also consider marking your egress with wands as it is very difficult to navigate a safe route from above.
A note on altitude illness; arriving at 14 camp in less than 5 days has produced altitude illness. Our northern latitude has less oxygen than the same elevation at mid-latitudes so 14,000’ here in AK feels like 16,000-17,000’. There have been a few groups that arrived at 14 within a few days of arriving at Basecamp and descended to 11 because they weren’t feeling well. We recommend taking your time on the lower glacier.
We want to remind climbers that a CMC is required at 17 camp. Rangers are checking and are turning people around if they don’t have one.
***
There are currently 26 permitted climbers and skiers in the park's glaciated backcountry, distributed as follows:
4 on the Peters Glacier
17 in the Upper Kahiltna
2 in the Upper Ruth
3 on Mount Hunter
Search and Rescue Activity
A Colorado man was evacuated from Denali’s 14,200-foot camp in critical condition on Wednesday morning, May 31. The patient was member of a six-person ski mountaineering team that flew to the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Basecamp on Saturday, May 27. The team ascended to the 14,200-foot camp in two days.
On the afternoon of Tuesday, May 30, after one day in camp, teammates alerted NPS rangers when one member began exhibiting severe symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and pulmonary edema (HAPE). A second team member was experiencing moderate symptoms of HAPE.
Weather conditions were not flyable Tuesday night. A team of NPS rangers and volunteer patrol members performed 18 hours of advanced life support on the unresponsive HACE/HAPE patient throughout the night, including treatment in a hyperbaric chamber, medications, supplemental oxygen, and mechanical breathing assistance.
On Wednesday morning, the park’s contracted high altitude helicopter flew to the 14,200-foot camp with an Air National Guard Pararescueman from the 212th Rescue Unit serving as the medical attendant. The patient was flown to Talkeetna and transferred to a LifeMed air ambulance for advanced care.
The teammate with moderate HAPE also received treatment, but is expected to self-evacuate on foot with his teammates.
Ranger Reports
14K Patrol #3 (Dossin) Patrol #3 summited the mountain on Monday from high camp. They descended to 14K camp yesterday, and spent the night providing medical care to the patient described above. Once the HACE/HAPE patient was evacuated this morning, they began their descent to 7K with hopes of flying out tomorrow, weather permitting.
14K Patrol #4 (McBrayer, Dalpes, Ramey) Patrol #4 has split in two - with Ranger Joey and VIPs Caroline and Patrick heading up to high camp yesterday in a swap with Patrol #3. Rangers Mik and Anika remained at 14K to await Kakiko's (patrol #5) arrival at 14K. Luckily both rangers were on hand to assist in the all-night medical response. Once Patrol #5 settles in at 14K, and assuming weather permits, then they will join the rest of their team at high camp.
14K Patrol #5 (Ramos-Leon) Patrol #5 is heading up from 11K to 14K today, and reports being passed by a steady stream of happy climbers on their descent from the upper mountain.
7K Patrol #4 (Mock) VIPs Mock and Politis are busy preparing a feast for Galen and crew's arrival at 7K tonight. Steve and John are scheduled to remain at 7K through Friday, June 2.
Photos of the Day
VIPs Annie Myrvang and Grayson Swingle passing through "The Gateway" after two stormy nights. (NPS Photo / Alan Davis)
Just back from a very short patrol in the Ruth Gorge, Ranger Alan Davis reports: Due to the poor weather and avalanche hazards, the team was not able to get as vertical as they would have liked. Reported about a half foot of wet new snow preceded by rain, and moderate to strong winds out of the north. Despite the conditions, the first and last day of the patrol provided enough good weather and visibility to start a good beach tan. A long walk to the base of the West Ridge of the Mooses Tooth and a flat tour up into the Ruth Amphitheater made for some good avalanche watching from a safe distance in the Sunshine. Nonetheless, it's always nice to enjoy the company of a good team with excellent glacier gourmet in a hauntingly beautiful spot.
Moody Mount Dickey from Ruth Gorge Basecamp (Photo courtesy of Grayson Swingle)