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TODAY'S STATS - 5/25/22 |
Denali |
Mt. Foraker |
|
Registered Climbers |
1,106 |
15 |
|
Climbers Currently On Mountain |
488 |
4 |
|
Completed Climbs |
72 |
3 |
|
Number of Summits |
27 |
0 |
|
Summit Percentage |
38% |
0% |
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The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127. |
(NOTE there were errors in the statistics originally posted on May 25 -- there were not 583 on the mountain yesterday. These stats above reflect the clarified numbers! ~mg 5/26/22)
As of May 25, there are 35 registered backcountry users exploring the Alaska Range:
- 17 in Upper Kahiltna
- 9 in the Upper Ruth
- 4 on Mount Hunter
- 1 on the Tokositna Glacier
- 4 in the Kichatna Spires
Mountain Weather
Wednesday, May 25: Gabby Faurot at basecamp reports “a good day! 23 F, light down glacier winds, partly cloudy up high."
Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation. MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams.
Click here for the National Weather Service Denali Climbing Forecast
The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier -- At risk of jinxing it, tomorrow should be the day.
Conditions Reports
Heads up climbers, the snow on the lower Kahiltna has entered into it's seasonal transitional phase. We are seeing temperatures above freezing for the first time at basecamp in the late afternoon (36 F 2C at 6pm) and freezing temperatures at night and into mid morning. When the snowpack enters this phase the snow bridges covering crevasses are difficult to detect and become weak in the late afternoon evening. Be diligent with your rope work, probe your camp sites and establish marked safe areas when unroped.
As mentioned in the Search and Rescue section of previous Field Reports, last week saw a fatal crevasse fall on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. A group working under a commercial filming permit were each experienced outdoor film makers and skiing without a rope at approximately 8,200 feet when the fall occurred. This is a tragic reminder that glacier conditions are constantly changing with temperature swings above or below freezing throughout the season, as well as subtle changes due to glacier movement. Areas that have been used by others may appear safe and crevasse-free, but may change throughout the day and the season.~Tucker Chenoweth, South District Ranger
Other route observations:
- The trail to camp one (@7800 feet) is in a good location and in nice shape, but when Travis and Kakiko passed through, the trail was still not wanded or marked. It might be by now.
- Windy Corner and Squirrel Hill are in good shape, with nice bucket steps.
- Fixed lines on the headwall are good to go.
- Pickets on the traverse near Denali Pass are likewise in good form.
Continued COVID Caution
There continues to be MANY reports of COVID in and around Talkeetna, Denali NP rangers strongly encourage preventative measures to ensure climbers don’t contract the virus before their flight into the Alaska Range. These measures include the CDC recommendations of staying up-to-date on vaccinations and boosters; wearing a mask when indoors; social distancing when possible; and washing hands frequently.
These precautions are especially important in the two weeks before your expedition start date and during your time in Talkeetna! You have likely invested a great deal of money, time, and energy into planning this expedition. Don't let COVID-19 ruin that investment.
COVID testing is available daily in downtown Talkeetna by the non-profit partner Denali Education Center (click for more info), however testing does not take the place of prevention. The virus, particularly with the current variants, is not always detectable in asymptomatic individuals.
Search and Rescue
A patient with significant frostbite to four fingers and one ear was evacuated today from the 14,200-foot camp.
On the topic of cold injuries (but unrelated to the patient mentioned above) we’ll take this opportunity for a few reminders for inbound climbers: Remember ski boots are not as well insulated as mountain boots. Tight fitting ski boots can be particularly problematic at upper elevations both due to the extreme cold temperatures and the fact that feet swell at altitude.
Also, from the rangers at 14,200 camp, if you start noticing signs of frostbite on your way UP, then turn around and take care of the cold injuries right away. Summits are not worth the cost of fingers and toes!
Ranger Reports
NPS 14K Patrol #1 (Dossin, Davis) A benefit of having six members, the patrol decided to divide and conquer in the final week of their patrol. Alan, Mary, and Quinton took the first stint at high camp, culminating in a beautiful summit opportunity on Friday, May 20. They descended the mountain the following day, then Alan and Mary flew out on Sunday to help lend a hand with climber orientations in Talkeetna. Galen, Auri, and Chris took their turn at high camp over the weekend – spending the time up high maintaining and aligning the pickets at Denali Pass, and taking a full inventory of the rescue cache at High Camp. Galen, Auri, Chris, and Quinton flew out of the Range today, Wednesday May 25, and are currently embracing the pollen-rich greenery of Talkeetna after a month on ice. Thank you, team, for getting the ball rolling!
NPS 14K Patrol #2 (Oken) Chrissie’s patrol has been active with multiple medical cases at 14,200 feet, and taking several day trips up the fixed lines. Last night and today was spent cleaning and warming a climber's frostbite injuries and assisting in his evacuation. The women will head up to high camp in the next couple days.
NPS 14K Patrol #3 (Baldwin/Ramos-Leon) Travis and Kakiko and friends made it to 14,200 camp on Tuesday, May 24. After an arduous start to their patrol during the initial basecamp days, the rest of their passage to 14K was smooth sailing.
NPS 14K Patrol #5 (Bomba) Ranger Chelsea Bomba is joined by a stellar crew on Patrol #5 – US Air National Guard Pararescueman Matt Steible from Anchorage lending his paramedic and rescue skills for the second time on an NPS patrol. The three VIPs on patrol are Brooke Maushund, Rain Felkl, and JJ Cieslewicz, all excited to join their first Denali mountaineering patrol. Depending on what life throws at them, the patrol intends to spend two to three nights on the Kahiltna Glacier before heading uphill.
From left to right: PJ Matt Steible, Ranger Chelsea Bomba, VIP Brooke Maushund, VIP Rain Felkl, and VIP J.J. Cieslewicz. (NPS Photo/Maureen Gualtieri)Denali Rescue Volunteers
Learn more about Denali Rescue Volunteers, an organization that helps make Denali National Park and Preserve's mountaineering operations whole! Thank you for all that you do each season, from helping equipping our volunteers, housing them before and after patrols, and supporting our recruitment process!
Photo of the Day
TEMSCO helicopter pilot Christian Kolden in the driver seat, taking in the grand view of the Alaska Range on a picture perfect day. (NPS Photo/Taylor Bracher)