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TODAY'S STATS - 4/24/23 |
Denali |
Mt. Foraker |
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Registered Climbers |
803 |
6 |
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Climbers Currently On Mountain |
9 |
0 |
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Completed Climbs |
1 |
0 |
|
Number of Summits |
1 |
0 |
|
Summit Percentage |
100% |
0% |
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The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127. |
Yes, that's right -- the 2023 spring mountaineering season begins with a 100% summit rate! Congratulations to winter soloist Jost Kobusch for returning safely from his February ascent of Denali. Jost reached the summit Sunday, February 19, 2023. For more information on his climb, see his Facebook posts that describe his route, his gear, and his experience.
Mountain Weather
Most anecdotal weather reports from the range have mentioned the word "COLD"... but we'll get more nuance once rangers and the base camp managers get situated later in the week. In the meantime:
Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation. MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams.
Starting May 1, the National Weather Service will publish their here: Denali Climbing Forecast
The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier has yet to be installed for the 2023 season, but we'll let you now when its up and operational.
Backcountry Conditions Reports
There are currently 102 permitted climbers and skiers in the park's glaciated backcountry, distributed as follows:
4 on the Peters Glacier
8 in the Upper Kahiltna
3 on the Eldridge Glacier
7 on the Buckskin Glacier
52 in the Upper Ruth
5 in the Lower Ruth
2 on Mount Hunter
18 in Little Switzerland
3 in the Kichatnas
Mount Hunter (dated 4/7/23) - "We attempted the Veggie couloir on Hunter. We found decent ice, but spooky wind slab on lower angled slopes below/just above the bergschrund and in choke points on the route. If it warms up, hopefully these will consolidate." ~ Michael Wejchert
Mount Huntington (dated 4/19 - 4/20) - "Good conditions, minimal snow trenching. Plenty of ice on summit snowfield/ridge. Descent via WFL, straightforward."
Kahiltna Peaks (dated 4/7 - 4/19) - "Initially interested in landing/skiing around the Yentna. Flew it - too dry. Popped over to an arm of the Kahiltna below Foraker. Skied 8 lines in the cirque - unbelievable conditions. All 5 aspects were phenomenal. Dry powder and stable. Some issues on some lower Foraker lines, notably wind slabs and serac issues. Lots of big slides exterior to lines skied. Other notes: very cold at night - whiskey turned to slush! Skied 5 aspects as stepp as 55 degrees w/o worry; one two-day storm dropped ~1 foot light snow, very fun." ~ Team Coyote
Kahiltna Peaks (dated 4/20 - 4/23) - "Skied around, no issues. Very cold at night and windy during the day. Three parties there when we left."
Little Switzerland / Pika Glacier (4/2 to 4/7) - "Excellent ski conditions. 5 groups present in the Pike. Very cold at night. 8 to 10" new snow on April 4. All normal routes and steeper ramps have good stability. Solar aspects are just beginning." ~Davenport Pika Group
Moose's Tooth / Ham & Eggs (4/19) - "Route is in! Good ice, neve snow, lots of spindrift. Cinch up that hood!"
Moose's Tooth / Ham & Eggs (4/20) - "Great conditions on routes! Lots of snow. A lot of new anchor material was replaced on Ham & Eggs. New cord has yellow tape. 70 meter ropes are the best."
Ruth Gorge (April 17) - "Freezy Nuts in good condition. Only about 100' of ice. Large cornice on the top. A party climbed the route the following day and had a close call with mushrooms falling off the Werewolf with warming temps. The anchors in the narrows (3) are in decent shape but definitely take care to see that nuts are seated well before weighting"
Mount Barille / Japanese Couloir (April 16) - "Boot top soft snow all the way to the col. Noticed a few anchors on the way up but didn't use any. Just below col is wallowy facetted snow over rock as per usual. Kicked off a soft slab avalanche while on belay on the backside of the col, probably 12" crown 30' wide. Turned around there."
Glacier 1 (April 23) - "Winter ski conditions. Easy transitions on and off glacier."
Mountain House (April 13) - "Windy, 6" to 12" snow accumulation. Excellent, fun skiing."
Ranger Reports
Camp infrastructure for both Basecamp and the 14,200-foot camp is getting flown to the Kahiltna Glacier by the U.S. Army High Altitude Rescue Team (HART) Chinook helicopter crews today, as these words are being typed. It's a bluebird day, we'll bring you photos and reports from the camp insert mission in the days to come. THANK YOU, Sugarbears!
The first Denali patrol of the season will be led by Rangers Joe Reichert and Jake Kayes, heading into the Range Thursday, April 27. STAY TUNED in the days and weeks to come for reports from the hill.
Photo of the Day
Kneeling in front row, left to right: Bark Ranger Lizzie Reiswig, Kakiko Ramos-Leon, Alan Davis, Mik Dalpes, Chelsea Bomba, Chelsie Valetta; standing in back row, left to right: Jake Kayes, Debbie Reiswig, Joey McBrayer (behind Debbie), Joe Reichert, Travis Baldwin, Chrissie Oken, Galen Dossin, Maureen Gualtieri, Tucker Chenoweth. Not pictured: Beth Howard and Anika Ramey.