The busy season is upon us, and climbers and rangers alike are eagerly awaiting flyable weather this week. Over the last two weeks, teams of rangers have gotten out to check conditions in the range. Early season patrols have included trips to the Buckskin and the Ruth. Rangers found a variety of snow surfaces, and while most solar slopes had crusts and moist snow, cold dry snow could still be found on higher north facing slopes. Climbers have reported lots of traffic on classic ice routes in the range.
Our first West Buttress Patrol of the season is assembling in Talkeetna, where rangers and volunteers (VIPs) are packing essential gear and food for their upcoming climb. This team will do a lot of the heavy lifting for the season, including setting up the ranger camp at 14k. Fingers crossed for a good weather window later in the week, so the team can fly in and start their expedition!
If you are waiting in Talkeetna for better weather, or you are packing and planning for your trip at home, early season is a great time to do a thorough assessment of your climbing gear. Take a close look at your equipment, especially your soft goods. When was the last time you replaced that Dyneema sling? Are you starting to see wear on your carabiners? Make sure your critical safety gear is looking fresh, so you can climb safe and have a successful expedition!
Photo – The Ruth Gorge seen from The Gateway.