Full Day Adventure: Upper District

There are many ways to spend a day in the Upper District of Buffalo National River. Depending on the season, you may want to spend your day exclusively on the trail. If the weather and water are right, maybe paddling is your preference. And if you're really ambitious, it's possible to do both in one day. Select your activity below:

• Paddling
• Hiking
• I'll start early. Let's do both.

 

Paddling toward Big Bluff (Ponca Wilderness) in early spring.

NPS

Full Day Paddling Adventure

For a full day of paddling, visitors may select either of the two premiere float trips in the Upper District. Click here for information about paddling safety, river etiquette, and canoe rentals.

Steel Creek to Kyles Landing (8 miles)

Hands-down the most beloved and popular section of the upper river, Steel Creek to Kyles Landing meanders through the heart of the Ponca Wilderness past towering bluffs, hidden side canyons, and relics of early settlement. Alternating between tumbling rapids and long, cerulean pools, paddlers will delight in the variety of pace and challenge. Landmarks along this stretch include Big Bluff, Jim Bluff, Granny Henderson’s cabin, Hemmed-In Hollow Falls, and the infamous “Hell’s Half Acre.” The takeout at Kyles Landing is on river right. Shuttle time between Steel Creek and Kyles Landing is approximately 40 minutes. High clearance and 4-wheel drive are recommended for the Kyles Landing Road.

Pruitt Landing to Hasty (7 miles)

The float from Pruitt to Hasty is a popular alternative when conditions upriver are too low for paddling. This section flows past geologic curiosities, shaded swimming holes, and cool, dripping springs as the river veers southward in its journey. Welch Bluff, about a mile downstream from Pruitt, contains a geologic fault where visible rock strata have shifted about 100 feet upward on the downstream side of the fault line. At the base of Welch Bluff is the Crow Hole, a shaded swimming area with a primitive campground. Approximately halfway between Pruitt and Hasty, the Little Buffalo River dumps into the “Big Buffalo” on river right; the river typically gains velocity from here. The takeout at Hasty is a sandy beach on river right, directly across from Chimney Rock Bluff. Shuttle time between Pruitt and Hasty is approximately 25 minutes.

 

View above the Ponca Wilderness from the edge of Big Bluff at sunset.

Aaron Bates

Full Day Hiking Adventure

For a full day of hiking, visitors may select any of the following trails traversing the Ponca Wilderness. Click here for important hiking safety information before you go.

Centerpoint Trailhead to Big Bluff

The Centerpoint Trail begins in the heart of the Ponca Wilderness, gradually winding down an old wagon road descending nearly 1,300 ft to the Buffalo River. During the descent, the trail offers outstanding panoramic views of the Buffalo River and the rugged Ozark Mountains that surround it. The Centerpoint Trail is considered to be a strenuous hike. The trail is steep in areas, especially on the hike out; visitors will need to plan to take the entire day to hike this trail due to the rough wilderness terrain. The trail intersects with many of the other trail systems in the Ponca Wilderness creating multiple spur trails for the more adventurous hiker. The spur trails connect the Centerpoint trail with the Chimney Rock Trail, Sneeds Creek Trail, Big Bluff Trail, Compton Loop Trail, and Hemmed-in Hollow Trail. The "Goat Trail" to Big Bluff is narrow and dangerous; visitors should proceed with extreme caution when hiking this section of trail. From Centerpoint Trailhead to Big Bluff and back is approximately 5 miles round-trip with 800 feet of elevation gain on the return hike. Click here for more information.

Compton Trailhead to Hemmed-in Hollow Falls

The Hemmed–in Hollow Trail begins in the heart of the Ponca Wilderness at the Compton Trailhead and winds down the mountain side descending nearly 1,400 ft. to the sandstone bluffs along the Buffalo River. The trail opens up along the way, giving visitors outstanding scenic views of the Buffalo River and the Ozark Mountains that surround it. The gem of the hike is Hemmed-in Hollow Falls. The picturesque Hemmed-in Hollow falls cascade nearly 210 feet over the rugged Ozark bluffs, making it the highest waterfall between the Rockies and the Appalachians. This waterfall only flows after a considerable amount of rain, so please be mindful of recent precipitation before you attempt this difficult hike. The Hemmed-in Hollow Trail is an extremely steep and strenuous trail that will humble even the most experienced hiker. Visitors will need to plan to take the entire day to hike this trail due to the rough wilderness terrain. The Hemmed-in Hollow Trail intersects with many of the other trail systems in the Ponca Wilderness, creating multiple spur trails for the more adventurous hiker. The spur trails connect the Hemmed-in Hollow Trail with the Sneeds Creek Trail, Centerpoint Trail, Bench Trail, and Old River Trail. For this reason, it's essential to have a detailed topographic map of this area in order to avoid confusion at trail intersections in the Ponca Wilderness. From Compton Trailhead to Hemmed-in Hollow and back is approximately 5 miles round-trip with 1,200 feet of elevation gain on the return hike. Click here for more information.

 

Best of Both

You're a brave soul. If you're willing to start at sunrise, it is absolutely possible to do it all in one day. Here's what we recommend:

Complete Half-Day Highlights by 10:00 AM

Rise with the sun. Take in the enormity of Roark Bluff at Steel Creek. Step back in time at Beaver Jim's Homestead. Spot some Rocky Mountain elk in Boxley Valley Historic District. Hike to caves and waterfalls at Lost Valley. Click here for all the details.

Float the Buffalo

After a marathon finish of the Half-Day Highlights, it's time to hit the river. If water levels are appropriate, Steel Creek to Kyles Landing is a spectacular, 8-mile stretch of river that traverses the Ponca Wilderness. If the water is a bit low, Pruitt Landing to Hasty is a lovely, 7-mile-long alternative. Click here for more information about these floats.

 

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