Wilderness

Big Bluff (aka Goat Trail) is a popular destination in the Ponca Unit of the Buffalo National River Wilderness.

Aaron Bates

Buffalo National River has nearly 36,000 acres of designated Wilderness within its boundaries. Three Wilderness units—the Upper Buffalo Wilderness, Ponca Wilderness, and Lower Buffalo Wilderness—make up more than one-third of the land area of this park, and each unit has its own unique story.

According to Buffalo River historian Kenneth Smith, in the early 19th century European explorer Henry Schoolcraft made an expedition up the White River to write an eyewitness description of its tributaries and terrain. Of the “Buffaloe Fork” of the White River, Schoolcraft documented a rugged and trying wilderness teeming with wildlife but no sign of permanent human settlement.

Today, skilled adventurers can visit any unit of the Buffalo National River Wilderness--whether by canoe, on foot, or on horseback--and experience the “Buffaloe Fork” just as it was described by Henry Schoolcraft in the early 1800’s. Bald eagles soar overhead. River otters swim and swirl in the shallows. A family of white-tail deer hesitantly crosses the river just yards in front of you before clambering up the rocky slope on the opposite bank. In Wilderness, you can spend days without seeing another human, yet you will undoubtedly be mesmerized by your company.

Check out the My Wilderness StoryMap by the University of Montana for an interactive learning experience about wilderness areas across the United States.

 

Upper Buffalo Unit

The Upper Buffalo Wilderness Unit is located in the westernmost portion of Buffalo National River. This unit adjoins the Upper Buffalo Wilderness Area (11,746 acres) administered by the U.S. Forest Service (Ozark National Forest). Recreational use is limited by the high skill level required to run the river, limited access, and the absence of maintained trails. River use is limited to highly skilled white-water boaters during brief periods of high water. In 1992, a 15.8 mile segment of the Buffalo River, upstream from the BNR boundary, was designated as part of the National Wild and Scenic River System.

 

Ponca Unit

The Ponca Wilderness Unit has the most recreational use of any wilderness area in Arkansas. Access is facilitated by paved highways on its perimeter, by an extensive trail system and by high levels of seasonal river use. There are 30.2 miles of designated hiking and horseback riding trails and five major trailheads in the Ponca Unit. The concentration of floaters, hikers and horseback riders from six separate trails in the vicinity of Horseshoe Bend and Hemmed-in Hollow creates congested conditions during peak use days in the spring. 
 

 

Lower Buffalo Unit

The Lower Buffalo Wilderness Unit encircles the lower river and adjoins the USFS Leatherwood Wilderness Area (16,956 acres). The combined 39,456 acres of the Lower Buffalo and Leatherwood Wilderness Areas creates the largest area of designated wilderness in the Ozark-Ouachita Highlands. This area is also unique regionally in providing multi-day river trips within a wilderness setting. The river channel is not included in this wilderness unit to allow for continued use of motorized boats (ten horsepower maximum limit). Floating, fishing, horseback riding and hunting are the primary recreational activities. It is estimated that most floaters on this segment camp at least one night between Rush and the White River.

Abandoned roads form an extensive network of unmaintained and unmarked primitive routes used by horses and hikers. The area also has numerous traditional hunting camps established during deer and turkey season. Some camps are accessed by boat and other by pack horse. Fishing is a popular activity, particularly with motorized boaters. The last 2-3 miles of the Buffalo is used extensively by anglers who motor up from the White River to fish for smallmouth bass.

 

A paddler in the Lower Buffalo Wilderness

NPS Photo

From the Wilderness Act of 1964....

Wilderness is:

• “…an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.”

• “…land retaining its primeval character and influence, without permanent improvements or human habitation.”

• “…affected primarily by the forces of nature, with the imprint of man’s work substantially unnoticeable.”

Wilderness areas are set aside by our nation's leaders because of their unique opportunities for solitude, mental and physical challenge, and spiritual enrichment. Those who venture into Wilderness must plan ahead and be adequately prepared with appropriate skills and equipment.To preserve the wilderness experience and character, all visitors should be familiar with Leave No Trace principles and practice them while traversing Buffalo National River. It is also essential to have a realistic understanding of your abilities before entering Wilderness. See our Preventative Search & Rescue page for more helpful information.

 

Group Size Recommendations

Buffalo National River's Wilderness & Backcountry Management Plan recommends the following group sizes in Wilderness areas:

• 6 persons OR combination of 8 persons and stock (example: 4 persons and 4 horses) for overnight use in areas without established trails or campsites
• 12 persons OR combination of 12 persons and stock (example: 6 persons and 6 horses) for overnight use in areas with established trails and campsites