Arete by Sam Roberts

Joshua Tree welcomes climbers and bouldering enthusiasts from around the world. This high desert monzogranite climbing mecca is famous for its traditional-style crack, slab, and steep-face climbing. With more than 400 climbing formations and 8,000 climbing routes, Joshua Tree offers challenging climbs for all levels of climbing ability. It is truly a world-class climbing destination.

If you are new to rock climbing and bouldering, please be sure that you are properly trained and equipped before you engage in these activities. You may wish to purchase a climbing guide or hiking map if you are unfamiliar with the park. They are available at park visitor centers and at outdoor shops in the surrounding communities. Information about commercial guide services can be found on the Internet and at local climbing stores.

Tread Lightly Fifty years ago, the impact of rock climbers at Joshua Tree was minimal, but today the park hosts hundreds of climbers and boulderers on a busy weekend. We must all do our part to protect this fragile desert environment, or it will cease to be a viable habitat for plants and animals, a valuable research area for scientisits, and a welcoming place for climbers to enjoy. Treading lightly is everyone’s responsibility.

Etiquette Be considerate—ask permission if you wish to climb in a campsite that is occupied.

Pack out your trash—all of it: tape, chalk pieces, cigarette butts, micro-food articles and wrappers, and fruit peels and cores (they don’t decompose in this arid environment). Please don’t create a mess by dumping your trash into a pit toilet or leaving it next to a full dumpster or recycle bin. Pit toilets have to be pumped and filling them with trash makes the job (aren’t you glad it’s not yours?) difficult, to say the least. Trash left outside dumpsters attracts ravens; ravens eat baby tortoises, and the desert tortoise is already on the edge of extinction. Leave your campsite and your climbing area cleaner than when you found it. Better yet, leave no trace!

Plants and Soils Multiple approach paths, called “social trails,” to the same cliff or boulder damage fragile desert plants and soils. Cryptobiotic soils that contain micro-organisms help to keep the sand in place and provide nutrients and moisture so plants can grow. When you walk on cryptobiotic soil, the micro-organisms die, so don’t create a new path—even if it is the shortest distance to your climb—when a well-worn approach already exists. Walk on rock surfaces and in washes rather than trampling undisturbed soil.

Use your crash pad carefully to prevent damage to plants near the base of climbs. Carry it rather than dragging it across the ground. Place it so that plants are not broken or crushed when a boulderer lands on it.

Don’t be guilty of “large group sprawl.” Limit the number of bodies around the boulder and you will limit the damage to the area surrounding the boulder. If several people are already bouldering in the area of your choice, look for someplace better.

Cultural Artifacts Joshua Tree has a rich cultural history and protects significant artifacts from historic and prehistoric American Indian groups. By law, archeological and historic sites and artifacts may not be disturbed. This includes rock art (pictographs and petroglyphs), habitation sites (rock shelters and camping sites), and cultural artifacts (pottery vessels and sherds, projectile points, stone tools, beads, etc.) While taking a single piece (sherd) of broken pottery may not seem wrong, it could provide the clue an archeologist needs to accurately interpret the activities of American Indians in this area.

Climbing within 50 feet of rock art is prohibited. Pictographs (paintings) and petroglyphs (carvings) are easily damaged and should not be touched. Skin oils, chalk, and boot rubber hasten the deterioration of these irreplaceable cultural artifacts. So does fire, never start a fire in a rock shelter.

Animals In order to protect sensitive wildlife habitat, the entire Wonderland of Rocks is closed to overnight use. This allows the desert bighorn sheep and other animals to visit water sources without being disturbed. Pets are banned from the backcountry. The presence of carnivores, such as domestic dogs, inhibits the feeding, travel, and reproductive cycles of animals who must struggle to survive in the wild. Even leashed dogs cause extra stress on wild animals and are only allowed in campgrounds and within 100 feet of designated roads.

Joshua Tree is home to about 250 bird species, including several birds of prey (raptors). Occasionally a climbing route will be closed during nesting season to protect these birds. Closure notices are posted in the area of the closure, at park visitor centers, at entrance stations, and at local climbing shops. If you encounter nesting raptors while climbing, please inform park staff and avoid the area.

Rock Formations Chipping, scraping, gardening, comfortizing, and gluing holds is prohibited. Minimize the use of chalk and brush it off after bouldering sessions to minimize the visual impact.

Closed to Climbing Six areas of the park are closed to rock climbing due to their proximity to sensitive resources or private property. They include: "Energy Crisis" on the east side of "Little Hunk," the "Schwarzenegger Wall," the "Pictograph Boulder" at the base of Queen Mountain, and within 50 feet of "Chicken Wing," "Heavy Metal," and "Hell Flake" in the "Indian Wave" boulder area. The private property across from the Hemingway parking area is closed to climbing, as is the Keys Ranch property. Visitors to the ranch must be accompanied by a park ranger; scheduled tours are available.

Fixed Anchors The rules that govern the placement of fixed anchors are complex. Please study them carefully as you are responsible for following them.

A fixed anchor is defined as any piece of climbing equipment that is left in place to facilitate a safe ascent or rappel. Examples include, but are not limited to, bolts, pitons, and slings. Only place fixed anchors as a last resort. Before placing fixed anchors on a route, think seriously about whether the route warrants them. Joshua Tree has a lot of top-rope routes, many of which are worth climbing, but not worth bolting.

Fixed Anchor Specifications The local climbing community suggests stainless steel hangers and bolts that are at least three-eights-inch in diameter and two and one-half inches in length. Please minimize visual impacts by camouflaging fixed anchors.

Fixed Anchors in Non-Wilderness Areas You are not required to have a permit to place new, or replace existing, fixed anchors in non-wilderness. However, please consider the impacts of new fixed anchors on the quality of existing climbing routes, natural, historical, and archeological resources, and the experience of other visitors. A “fixed anchor checklist” was devised by the park, with advice from local climbers and other interested persons, to help you evaluate the potential impact of your proposed route. It is available at entrance stations, visitor centers, and online.

Fixed Anchors in Wilderness Areas Fixed anchors may be replaced, anchor for anchor, in wilderness. A permit is required to place new fixed anchors in wilderness. Contact the special-use office at 760-367-5545 to request a permit application.

Over 75 percent of the park is Congressionally-designated wilderness. Climbers are responsible for knowing where wilderness boundaries are located. A list of climbs and whether they are inside or outside of designated wilderness is available online. If you are unsure about a particular location, contact a park ranger.

Fixed Anchor-Free Zones Fixed anchors may not be placed or replaced in fixed anchor-free zones. Additionally, the Barker Dam area, a popular destination for many park visitors, has been designated a fixed anchor-free zone to maintain its aesthetic value for visitors. Fixed anchors may not be placed between the parking lot and the dam. If you wish to place fixed anchors in the surrounding area, make sure to identify the boundaries first.

Power drills Power drills may not be used without a permit. You may contact the special-use office at 760-367-5545 to learn more about the permitting process.

Climbing Safety Rock climbing can be a dangerous activity. The National Park Service does not maintain climbing routes or associated climbing gear and cannot guarantee your safety. You climb at your own risk.

Most climbing in Joshua Tree National Park requires traditional climbing gear. Fixed anchors for top-roping are limited. Helmets are advised for all climbing activity in the park.

Emergencies Volunteers and park staff train together to provide search and rescue services in the park. In an emergency call the park dispatcher direct at 909-383-5651, or call 911. Be prepared to tell the dispatcher the rock formation and climbing route names, the nearest landmark, and a meeting place so that you can direct rescuers to the accident site.

Cell phone service is limited within the park. Emergency-only phones are located at the Intersection Rock parking lot next to Hidden Valley Campground and at the ranger station in Indian Cove. Pay phones are located in the village of Joshua Tree and at the Oasis Visitor Center in Twentynine Palms.

Please report all climbing related injuries to park staff, even those that do not require assistance.