• Views from Penobscot Mountain summit.

    Acadia

    National Park Maine

Climbing

climbing

Safety

 
Climbers assume responsibility for personal safety. On some routes local climbers maintain fixed protection or rappel stations. As always, evaluate them before using. At Otter Cliffs, the park maintains fixed anchors on top that must be used instead of trees to belay several climbs. Evaluate these anchors as well, and notify the park immediately of safety concerns. Climbers at Great Head and Otter Cliff should know tides and weather forecasts; climbing at these areas is more difficult and dangerous at high tide or in heavy seas. Climb within your limits.

Emergency 911
 
scrambling

Guides

 

Instruction/Guiding
Climbing instructoin, guiding, and equipment are available locally. Check with area chambers of commerce.

Guidebooks

Several climbing guidebooks are available locally.

A copy of A Climbers Guide to Mount Desert Island by Geoffrey Childs (1979 - out of print) is available for review at Hulls Cove Visitor Center and local libraries.

 

Areas

 

Otter Cliff: 60 feet (18 m) sea cliffs, crack and face climbing, rappel access, routes up to 5.12
South Wall (Champlain): 3-pitch routes to 5.12, good corners and thin cracks
Central Slabs: 1-pitch routes, some good beginner routes, routes to 5.10
South Bubble: 1- to 3-pitch routes, some friction climbing, good beginner routes
Great Head: high-grade sea cliff climbing, rappel access, know tides and weather

Many other small areas are used infrequently. Good bouldering can be found along the ocean between Sand Beach and Otter Cliff, and near Blackwoods Campground.

 

Permit

 

Climbing permits are required for organized commercial and noncommercial groups wanting to climb at Otter Cliffs. To obtain a permit, fill out the application.

Did You Know?