Chapter Two:
First Park
Like a precious stone that escapes detection in the
sands of a beach, Yosemite was protected over the centuries by its
isolation. In turn the Spanish, Mexicans, and mountain men had claimed
the High Sierra, but even the few explorers who finally entered the
mountains left without publicizing all they may have seen. The miners of
1849 not only invaded California; many stayed and promoted it. Put
another way, the Ahwahneechees were not only victims of gold but also
casualties of publicity. Even as the gold ran out, tourists quickly
replaced miners. The future of Yosemite Valley had already been sealed.
As the Ahwahneechees themselves had learned by bitter experience,
isolation did nothing to deter invasion once the location of Yosemite
Valley was either suspected or known.
It remained for a young Englishman, James Mason
Hutchings, to see in the description of Yosemite's wonders a means to
fame and fortune. A frustrated miner but keen observer of the California
scene (following his failure in the goldfields he turned to publishing a
popular newsletter for miners), Hutchings sensed his opportunity in
1855. He retained an artist, Thomas A. Ayres, and with two other
companions and two Indian guides entered Yosemite Valley in late June of
that year. For Hutchings the five-day excursion marked the beginning of
a lifetime involvement with Yosemite as publicist, settler, developer,
and concessionaire. [1] Yosemite, in
retrospect, had come to its first important threshold of development and
had quietly passed over it, all without the slightest hint of public
debate or at least some expressions of mild concern.
Like any committed publicist, Hutchings welcomed the
fast-approaching close to Yosemite's days of isolation. By the end of
1855 several other parties of tourists had experienced the valley's
grandeur; all told, the number of bona fide visitors had already reached
forty-two. [2] The following July Hutchings
did his own part to make certain the number steadily increased. On the
strength of his many travels and obvious talent as a journalist, he
released the first issue of Hutchings' California Magazine. "We
wish to picture California, and California life," he wrote in the
opening of his introductory note, "to portray its beautiful scenery and
curiosities; to speak of its mineral and agricultural products; to tell
of its wonderful resources and commercial advantages; and to give
utterance to the inner life and experience of its people." In other
words, he intended to promote California in every manner possible. Nor
did he apologize for his commitment to boosterism, tourism, and economic
growth. "Whatever we believe to be for the permanent prosperity of
California, we shall fearlessly advocate, in any way that suits us." Of
course, as publisher he intended to profit only by increasing his
circulation. "Therefore," he concluded, "placing ourselves in the hands
of a generous public, we make our bow, and introduce to your kindly
notice the first number of HUTCHINGS' CALIFORNIA MAGAZINE." [3]
The subject of many feature articles, Yosemite Valley
soon passed from obscurity into state, regional, and national
prominence. [4] To be sure, the tide of
description quickly swelled as eastern journalists and travelers also
discovered Hutchings's favorite topic. Among the most effective
publicists was Horace Greeley, editor and publisher of the New York
Tribune. On a whirlwind visit to the valley in August 1859, he
endured endless hours in the saddle, all the while anticipating the
thrill of his first glimpse of Yosemite Falls. Typically, however, that
late in the season the cataract had almost dried up, prompting Greeley
to denounce it as nothing but "a humbug." Yosemite Valley, on the other
hand, was well worth "a fatiguing visit." Indeed, he agreed, it was
"most unique and majestic," unsurpassed by any other wonder like it "on
earth." The following year the Reverend Thomas Starr King of Boston also
made a visit and, several months afterward, described his horseback ride
up the valley for the Boston Evening Transcript. "Is there such a
ride possible in any other part of the planet?" He asked his readers to
imagine formations such as "The Sentinel," standing 4,347 feet. "Reader,
do you appreciate that height?" Similarly, before King's party "had been
twenty minutes in the Yosemite Valley," they were "standing at the foot
of a fall as high and more beautiful than the celebrated Staubach, the
highest in Europe." Further try to comprehend, he asked, "such
stupendous rock scenery." Certainly nothing "among the Alps, in no pass
of the Andes, and in no Cañon of the mighty Oregon range" could
rival it. Perhaps only "the awful gorges of the Himalaya," he finally
conceded, could equal the tremendous uplift of the Sierra Nevada. [5]
The more such descriptions appeared in the popular
press, the more Americans realized what Yosemite, symbolically, might
mean to their culture. Among the few natural wonders renowned throughout
the East, the most visited, Niagara Falls, had already been lost to
private ownership and the attendant commercial ills. Once trees and
wildflowers had framed the Niagara River; by 1850 hotels, shops,
stables, signboards, tourist traps, and other eyesores all competed for
public attention. [6] In dramatic contrast
Yosemite was fresh, mysterious, inspiring, and, above all, unrivaled
through out the world. "Niagara itself," agreed Albert D. Richardson,
another popular correspondent, "would dwarf beside the rocks in
[Yosemite] valley." Europe itself could claim nothing of comparable
grandeur, either natural or human made. In that vein Samuel Bowles,
editor and publisher of the Springfield (Mass.)
Republican, asked his readers to imagine how "The Three
Brothers," "Cathedral Rocks," and "The Cathedral Spires" each replicated
"the great impressiveness, the beauty and the fantastic form of the
Gothic architecture. From their shape and color alike," he concluded,
straining his analogy to the limit, "it is easy to imagine, in looking
upon them, that you are under the ruins of an old Gothic cathedral, to
which those of Cologne and Milan are but baby-houses." [7]
In Yosemite Valley, America came closer to ending its
long and frustrating search for a distinctive national identity.
Accordingly, describing the valley in combination with the giant
sequoias proved doubly irresistible. Of the three groupings within a
day's ridethe Merced, the Tuolumne, and the Mariposa
grovesthe latter was by far the largest and most popular. "Here,"
Horace Greeley informed his readers in 1859, "the Big Trees have been
quietly nestled for I dare not say how many thousand years." But "that
they were of very substantial size when David danced before the ark,
when Solomon laid the foundations of the Temple, when Theseus ruled in
Athens, when Aeneas fled from the burning wreck of vanquished Troy, when
Sesostris led his victorious Egyptians into the heart of Asia," Greeley
had "no manner of doubt." Thus did the giant sequoias further compensate
the United States for lacking a national history that sparked interest
overseas. The explorer Clarence King later agreed with Greeley's
assessment that the United States had a traditional past; American
history simply required occasional measurement in "green old age."
King's implication, like Greeley's, once again was obvious; the cultural
possibilities of these enduring giants seemingly had no end. Meanwhile,
for the traveler, "if he love the tree for its own grand nature," King
concluded, "he may lie in silence upon the soft forest floor . . . and
spend many days in wonder, gazing upon majestic shafts . . . up and
through the few huge branches, and among the pale clouds of filmy green
traced in open network upon the deep blue of the sky." [8]
Thoroughly fascinated, Americans thronged to exhibit
halls, art galleries, and photographers' studios to see such
descriptions lent visual expression. After all, in Hutchings's words,
Yosemite Valley, like Niagara Falls, had become fixed in the American
mind as another "scene of wonder and curiosity." C. L. Weed made the
first photographs of the valley for Hutchings in 1859; romanticized
versions appeared that October as engravings in the Hutchings'
California Magazine. [9] Two years later
Carleton E. Watkins, another rising photographer, also visited Yosemite
and the Mariposa Grove. The artist Albert Bierstadt followed in the
summer of 1863. For seven weeks he sketched Yosemite's cliffs, domes,
and waterfalls; on canvas the wonders grew even larger than life against
their unmistakably exaggerated backgrounds. But exaggerated or not,
Bierstadt's grandiose paintings were the talk of critics and the
art-viewing public. "Adventure is an element in American artist-life
which gives it singular zest and interest," wrote H. T. Tuckerman, a
reviewer, in praise of Bierstadt's work. The artist had captured not
only the "bold and true significance" of American scenery but also the
spirit of "pioneer enterprise and hardy exploration" that seemed to
imbue the nation's art as a whole. [10]
Yosemite, it followed, was open to some artistic license. More than a
natural wonder, it had become fixed in the national consciousness as an
icon of American culture. From Hutchings's early travels to Bierstadt's
imaginative paintings, the period of transition spanned a total of
barely eight years. Between 1855 and 1863, Yosemite's timeless hold on
the American imagination had already become a foregone conclusion.
If Americans had thought seriously about Yosemite's
future in 1855, instead of waiting, as was the case, until 1864, the
development of the valley might have been strictly curtailed right at
the outset. But the United States as a whole still knew little about the
area; more significant, scenic preservation was not yet part of the
nation's frame of reference. Americans simply could not debate an issue
that had yet to evolve. In the process of transforming Yosemite Valley
from natural wonder to icon, Americans naturally assumed that its
development for tourism was both legitimate and necessary.
Hardly had the first tourists arrived in 1855 when a
few entrepreneurs, sensing the possibilities of the valley as a summer
resort, contemplated building the first camps and rustic hotels. By 1857
a primitive structure opposite Yosemite Falls was serving guests; two
years later a slightly more elaborate structure, the Upper Hotel, had
also been completed, a short distance up the valley. [11] Yosemite had passed over another threshold
of change, again without discussion or evidence of widespread concern
about the consequences.
The first settler to arrive in the valley was James
C. Lamon. A transplanted Virginian who had come west in search of gold,
Lamon claimed a portion of the upper, or eastern, end of the valley in
1859. There he put up a cabin, planted an orchard, and tended a garden,
all with the intention of selling fruit and produce to summer guests.
The importance of establishing a residence in Yosemite Valley as a
prerequisite for commercial advantage was also not lost on James Mason
Hutchings. In 1860 he published Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity, a
guidebook further extolling Yosemite's distinctive grandeur, in March
1862, after a heavy winter snow, he made a round trip to the valley,
seeking to prove that it could be reached and inhabited throughout the
year. In part influenced by Hutchings's reports, Lamon wintered the
following season in his cabin on the valley floor. Further encouraged
by Lamon's success, Hutchings returned in 1863 and purchased the
financially troubled Upper Hotel. Like Lamon, he "preempted" or claimed
by right of first occupation, portions of Yosemite Valley covering more
than one hundred acres of land. [12]
As Hutchings and Lamon undoubtedly were aware, both
of their claims were technically illegal. Under the land laws of the
United States, the right of preemption, or homestead, applied only to
surveyed portions of the public domain. For obvious reasons
government surveyors gave highest priority to lands desirable for
settlement; the Sierra Nevada, as a result, had not yet been surveyed.
And even if it had, Hutchings and Lamon would not have been granted
clear title to their homesteads until each had satisfied the General
Land Office that his claim was legitimate. To do this, the claimant had
to demonstrate either permanent residence or improvements over a
period of five years, or he had to be willing to pay the federal
government $1.25 per acre. The key restriction again was the limitation
of any claim to the surveyed public lands expressly designated for
settlement. Until Yosemite Valley had been legally surveyed and further
designated for settlement exclusive of any other public use, neither
Hutchings nor Lamon had a binding claim to permanent ownership. [13]
Bluntly put, both men were squatters who simply hoped
their claims would be recognized once Yosemite Valley had been surveyed.
Like the location of the latest gold strike, the variables of America's
land lawsand how each might be circumventedwere common
knowledge all across the advancing frontier. As former gold seekers
themselves, Hutchings and Lamon certainly knew the advantages of staking
any kind of claim to a disputed piece of property. Having publicized
Yosemite Valley and proven it habitable year-round, they now stood to
profit from the greater number of tourists certain to follow. Meanwhile,
like many other frontier settlers, they further gambled on the
inconsistencies of federal land laws. Regardless of the fact that
Yosemite Valley had not yet been surveyed, Hutchings and Lamon had
settled there first and thereby had positioned themselves to insist on a
recognition of their claims. Here again, as the frontier experience
showed, the determined settler or speculator who backed his claim to a
piece of property by also occupying it was almost certain to have some
influence over its final dispensation.
Of course, neither Hutchings nor Lamon could have
predicted the campaign for the government preservation of Yosemite
Valley, an event that finally occurred during the winter and spring of
1864. Precisely how the campaign evolved remains largely a mystery. It
is known that on February 20, 1864, Israel Ward Raymond, the California
state representative of the Central American Steamship Transit Company
of New York, sent a letter to John Conness, the junior senator from
California, urging the preservation of Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa
Grove of giant sequoias. Apparently, Raymond's letter elaborated on
previous exchanges or discussions among himself, Senator Conness, and
several others. "I send by express some views of the Yo Semite Valley to
give you some idea of its character," Raymond began. These views
included a photograph, taken at Inspiration Point, showing "about seven
miles of the Valley, and the principal part of it." Indicating the
elevations necessary for making any effective comparisons, Raymond
continued: "You can see that its sides are abrupt precipices ranging
from 2500 to 5000 feet high. Indeed there is no access to it but by
trails over the debris deposited by the crumbling of the walls." [14]
In retrospect, Raymond's next statement was crucial
to the eventual establishment of the park. "The summits are mostly bare
Granite Rock," he remarked. "In some parts the surface is covered only
by pine trees and can never be of much value." Undoubtedly, as a result,
it "will be many years before it is worth while for the Government to
survey these mountains." Still, he considered "it important to obtain
the proprietorship soon, to prevent occupation and especially to
preserve the trees in the valley from destruction." [15] With this statement he underscored that
Yosemite's potential economic value, exclusive of tourism, was minimal
at best. Meanwhile, the valley obviously had the enormous scenic appeal
that justified its being protected from the few individuals who might
wish to settle there.
Raymond further included a brief description of the
property that ought to be protected in the Mariposa Grove; he then came
to the key statement of his entire proposition. "The above are granted
for public use, resort, and recreation and are inalienable forever but
leases may be granted for portions not to exceed ten years." Perhaps the
wording inalienable forever was his own terminology; more likely,
however, it resulted from discussions with one or more of the persons
whom he listed as possible commissioners of the grant, especially
Frederick Law Olmsted, the distinguished co-designer and first
superintendent of Central Park in New York City. Although Olmsted and
Raymond have not been linked directly, Raymond certainly was familiar
with Central Park and Olmsted's growing reputation. Similarly, he could
have met with Olmsted previously, either in New York or California; in
1863 Olmsted had gone to California to manage the Mariposa Estate,
located about a day's ride west of Yosemite Valley in the Sierra Nevada
foothills. Although he did not see the valley proper until August 1864,
he was already well aware of its existence and fame. [16] Meanwhile, Senator Conness himself was
crucial to the survival of the inalienable clause; he forwarded
Raymond's letter to the commissioner of the General Land Office,
requesting that a bill be prepared, and, significantly, he repeated
Raymond's words: "Let the grant be inalienable." [17]
On May 17, 1864, the Senate Committee on Public Lands
reported favorably on Conness's bill; he asked for its consideration
immediately and was granted his request. "I will state to the Senate,"
he began his speech, "that this bill proposes to make a grant of certain
premises located in the Sierra Nevada mountains, in the State of
California, that are for all public purposes worthless, but which
constitute, perhaps, some of the greatest wonders of the world." This
statement, of course, repeated Raymond's assurance that Yosemite's
striking beauty masked nothing of obvious commercial value. The most
telling part of the speech, however, was Conness's own. Deviating
momentarily from Raymond's original argument, he forcefully reminded the
Senate that the British had earlier denied the very existence of the
giant sequoias. "From the Calaveras grove some sections of a fallen tree
were cut during and pending the great World's Fair that was held in
London some years since," Conness noted. "The English who saw it
declared it to be a Yankee invention, made from beginning to end; that
it was an utter untruth that such trees grew in the country; that it
could not be." Even though merely transporting the exhibit had cost
"several thousand dollars, we were not able to convince them that it was
a specimen of American growth." Few statements more graphically depicted
the cultural significance that Americans had since bestowed on Yosemite
Valley and the giant sequoias. "They would not believe us," Conness
repeated for effect. If the English were so stubborn, America's duty was
unmistakably clear. "The purpose of this bill is to preserve one of
these groves from devastation and injury," he concluded, although
obviously he did not intend to slight the significance of Yosemite
Valley as well. "The necessity of taking early possession and care of
these great wonders can easily be seen and understood." [18]
Introduced in those words, as a measure in defense of
American pride and patriotism, Conness's bill was assured of success.
Nor did England's sympathy for the Confederacy during the Civil War,
then already in its third and bloodiest year, hurt the bill's chances.
By reminding the Senate of England's earlier denouncement of the giant
sequoias, Conness also subconsciously reminded his colleagues of
Britain's lingering sentiments toward the American South.
Given the expense of the Civil War, his assurance
that the park would cost the government nothing for maintenance and
support proved equally important in securing the bill's passage. "The
object and purpose is to make a grant to the State," he carefully noted,
"to be taken charge of by gentlemen to be appointed by the Governor, who
are to receive no compensation for their services, and who are to
undertake the management and improvement of the property by making roads
leading thereto and adopting such other means as may be necessary for
its preservation and improvement." The application for protection itself
came "from various gentlemen of California, gentlemen of fortune, of
taste, and of refinement," who asked simply "that this property be
committed to the care of the State." The one and only objective of the
bill was the "preservation both of the Yosemite valley and the Big Tree
Grove," that each "may be used and preserved for the benefit of mankind.
It is a matter involving no appropriation whatever," Conness remarked,
underscoring this most important qualification. "The property is of no
value to the Government," he also restated, further invoking Raymond's
compelling observation. "I make this explanation that the Senate may
understand what the purpose is." [19] The
House of Representatives speedily ratified the measure; accordingly, on
June 30, 1864, President Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Park Act
into law. [20]
Its significance, of course, was easily lost at the
time, especially since the bill had been passed in the midst of civil
war. In retrospect, however, the United States Congress had done nothing
less than approve a model piece of legislation leading to the eventual
establishment of national parks. Meanwhile, Yosemite's own history as
solely a natural wonder had drawn to a close. Its legacy of
accomplishment and controversy as a park was about to begin.
Yosemite surmounted the first of its bureaucratic
obstacles with relative ease. The passage of the Yosemite Park Act of
1864 provided for transferring the valley and the Mariposa Grove to the
state of California. The official acceptance of the grant required the
approval of the state legislature, which would not meet again until
1866. As a result, Governor Frederick F. Low issued an interim
proclamation of acceptance on September 28, 1864, and, further in
keeping with his prerogatives under section one of the enabling act,
announced in the proclamation his first appointments to the Yosemite
board of park commissioners. [21]
Of considerable note, the name heading the governor's
list was that of Frederick Law Olmsted. Aside from his probable
influence on the park legislation itself, his appointment as nominal
chairman of the commission underscored his growing reputation in park
management and design. The seven other appointees included Israel Ward
Raymond and Josiah Dwight Whitney, state geologist. The commissioners
immediately authorized a survey of Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa
Grove to determine, as required by the act of June 30, 1864, "the locus,
extent, and limits" of the grant. The survey was completed that fall by
James T. Gardner and Clarence King, whose names were synonymous with
exploration of the region. Finally, on April 2, 1866, the legislature
and the governor of California jointly approved an act of acceptance,
and the transfer of Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove to the state
became official. [22]
The Park Commission, in turn, voted on May 21 to make
Galen Clark, one of its members, the first official guardian of the
grant. [23] In a more serious vein, the
commissioners further addressed the problem of outstanding land claims
in the valley. Fortunately, a solution, so it seemed, had already been
written into the Yosemite Park Act. In keeping with Israel Ward
Raymond's original recommendations to Senator Conness, the bill
authorized private individuals to apply for the privilege of building
and operating tourist accommodations in the park. Leases to this effect
were to be granted for ten-year intervals. Accordingly, the
commissioners offered James Mason Hutchings and James C. Lamon the right
to maintain their existing properties in the valley for a period not to
exceed the ten years allowable under the terms of the Yosemite Park Act.
[24]
As Josiah Dwight Whitney, the commission's secretary,
later reported to the state legislature, the terms offered Lamon and
Hutchings were extremely generous. In Lamon's case, for example, the
commissioners charged "the nominal rent of one dollar per annum." By
1866 he claimed 378 acres in the upper portion of the valley; of these,
20 had been cleared and planted with fruit trees and berries. The
berries especially, Whitney noted, "have found a ready market in the
valley among the visitors." The point again was that Lamon had not
established clear title to his property prior to June 30, 1864, nor
could he have done so regardless of the park act unless Yosemite Valley
had been surveyed and opened to settlement. Still, in view "of the
useful character of the work done by him," Whitney remarked, and because
"his buildings are not at all conspicuous in the valley," the commission
agreed that he should be offered a lease in keeping with the most
liberal interpretation of the Yosemite Park Act. [25]
In Hutchings's case, the commissioners tried to be no
less accommodating. Moreover, they remained sympathetic even though
Hutchings, unlike Lamon, had claimed "the best meadow land, and the best
or one of the best sites for building in the valley." Further weighing
his investments in and contributions to the valley's notoriety, the
commissioners were also disposed to offer him a ten-year lease to his
land, house, and hotel, again "at a mere nominal rent." [26]
Nonetheless, neither Hutchings nor Lamon accepted the
commission's offer, insisting that the terms instead infringed on their
property rights. Thus the commission had "no alternative," Whitney
reported, but to begin "legal proceedings against both these gentlemen
as trespassers." Simply stated, the question before the courts would be
"whether the State really is the proprietor of the grant made by
Congress, or, in short, whether the United States have authority to
dispose of the unsurveyed and unsold public land." [27] King and Gardner's survey authorized by the
Yosemite Park Commission had established only the boundaries and
topography of the grant; in any event, federal acceptance of such
limited surveys in no way obligated the General Land Office to sanction
any previous settlement claims.
Meanwhile, Hutchings and Lamon prepared to take their
case to the California state legislature. Early in 1868 the legislature
found overwhelmingly in their favor, passing an act of restitution even
over the veto of Governor H. H. Haight. On the ratification of the
measure by the United States Congress, each claimant would receive clear
title to 160 acres of land in Yosemite Valley. [28] The qualification that Congress itself must
ratify the award proved, in the end, to be of special significance.
Otherwise, the ramifications of the dispute were already becoming
obvious. If Hutchings and Lamon won their case, any land claim, no
matter how tenuous, could conceivably undermine the Yosemite Grant, not
to mention irreparably compromise all future attempts to establish
scenic parks on the public domain.
On June 3, 1868, Representative George W. Julian of
Indiana asked for consideration of H.R. 1118, "an act to confirm to J.
M. Hutchings and J. C. Lamon their preemption claims in the Yosemite
valley, in the State of California." Following the line of argument they
themselves had repeatedly advanced, Julian depicted Hutchings and Lamon
as men whose investments were in fact personal sacrifices in the
national interest. Long before June 30, 1864, according to the
text of H.R. 1118, both claimants had made "permanent and substantial
improvements" in the valley "to the great convenience and comfort of
visitors." In other words, the United States had Hutchings and Lamon
alone to thank for the fact that Yosemite Valley "was no longer a remote
and solitary wilderness." The provision in the Yosemite Park Act
allowing only ten-year leases to private developers was obviously
"wholly inadequate" to attract other innkeepers and investors. Hutchings
and Lamon had staked their fortunes on Yosemite Valley regardless of
such risks. They "had built their cabins, planted their orchards and
vineyards, and expended several thousand dollars in establishing for
themselves a comfortable home," Julian stated, further pleading their
case on the floor of the House. Adding to his imagery of their alleged
wilderness ordeal, he concluded that all the while, they had faced "the
privations and hardship incident to a life remote from society and
civilization." [29]
In a similar vein, Representative James A. Johnson of
California took up the argument where Julian left off, noting that if
the government offered "inducements to those who are hardy and
enterprising enough to advance ahead into the unbroken wilderness and
blaze out a way for civilization to follow," but then reneged on those
inducements, "that Government is not a Government of law, of justice, or
of right between man and man; but is a plundering despotism, robbing its
own citizens." The Yosemite Park Act aside, the Constitution and laws of
the United States made no provision "for the creation of fancy pleasure
grounds by Congress out of citizens' farms." Here again, the portrayal
of Hutchings and Lamon as struggling pioneers rather than frontier
opportunists proved compelling. When the speaker ended debate and the
vote was called, the motion for restitution was easily approved. [30]
If the bill had carried in the Senate as well, the
Yosemite Park Act might have been irreparably undermined by any land
claim, no matter how specious. Instead, the Senate held firm to the
preservation principles first enunciated by Israel Ward Raymond and John
Conness. On July 23, 1868, Senator George H. Williams of Oregon reported
to his colleagues that the Committee on Private Land Claims, to whom
H.R. 1118 had been referred, had instructed him "to make an adverse
report, and to move the indefinite postponement of the bill." The report
itself emphasized that Yosemite Valley had "never been surveyed";
accordingly, it had "never become subject to pre-emption or private
sale." It followed that Hutchings's and Lamon's rights to the lands they
occupied were no more "than might arise from an expectation that
at some subsequent time they could obtain title from the United States"
(italics added). In any event, especially given the topography of
Yosemite Valley and its environs, the claimants at least "had some
reasons to suppose that there would be delays and difficulties in
perfecting their titles" and, more specifically, "that the public
surveys would not, for a long time, if ever, be extended to it."
Meanwhile, "the remarkable features of the place" should have forewarned
Lamon and Hutchings that Yosemite Valley might "not be treated by the
government like agricultural lands of an ordinary character." [31] This observation was "especially true of
Mr. Hutchings," Williams wrote, emphasizing that his claim was even more
tenuous than Lamon's. Hutchings had "commenced his residence there long
after public attention had been attracted to the valley, and only a
month or two before it was granted by Congress to the State." If
anything, Williams continued, Hutchings was entitled "to credit and
possibly compensation," but not land. To be sure, he had "visited the
valley frequently before 1864, and published interesting descriptions of
it"; the point again was that no law provided "for the inception of a
title in that way." Settlers residing on the unsurveyed public lands of
the United States did so "at their peril," Williams concluded. "The
government is under no equitable obligation to maintain their claims to
the prejudice of the public interests." [32]
In the instance of Yosemite Valley, "one of the
wonders of the world," only its preservation in trust, Williams argued,
protected those public interests. "It stands unrivalled in its majesty,
grandeur, and beauty," he wrote. "It is one of those magnificent
developments of natural scenery in which all of the people of the
country feel a pride and an interest, and to which their equal right of
access and enjoyment ought to be protected." It was toward "this end,"
he emphasized, that Congress had granted Yosemite to California in the
first place. Clearly, the acceptance of the grant bound California to
honor its conditions. As Williams noted, "That State was required
and expected to take the valley and hold it for 'public use, resort, and
recreation,' and Congress in effect by the act of 1864 reserved it for
such purposes" (italics added). Instead California had voted to allow
the possibility "that ultimately it would go into the hands of those who
would levy tribute upon the travelling public, and make this beautiful
valley odious for the extortions of its greedy and sordid possessors."
Admittedly, it had been said that Hutchings and Lamon were "good and
deserving citizens; that they will protect the valley." Then what about
the other people who had supposedly made similar claims? Could the same
be said for them? In either case, "passage of the bill before the Senate
would be to give up the idea of the public enjoyment of the valley, and
surrender it wholly to the purposes of private speculation." [33]
The key again, Williams concluded in his report, was
the intent of the original legislation to protect Yosemite Valley
"inalienable for all time." The California legislation awarding Lamon
and Hutchings title to lands in the valley was a breach of that faith, a
measure approved "in utter disregard of the conditions and purposes of
the grant." The duty of the Senate was unmistakably clear. "All parts of
the country are interested in keeping this property out of private
hands," Williams reiterated. Congress had no obligation whatsoever "to
ratify the act of California granting to Hutchings and Lamon parts of
the Yosemite valley." The American people instead overwhelmingly
demanded "that it should be protected for their own 'use, resort, and
recreation.'" [34]
In retrospect, preservation had withstood its first
significant challenge. Above all, the Senate's insistence that
California honor its obligation to protect Yosemite Valley in trust for
the American people as a whole, "inalienable for all time," gave crucial
impetus to the national park idea. Except for the cession of Yosemite
Valley and the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias to California for
management, every other guiding principle of the national park idea was
already in place by 1864. The petition of Lamon and Hutchings forced
Congress to reaffirm those principles as early as 1868, four years prior
to the establishment of Yellowstone National Park.
Traditionally considered to be the birthplace of the
national park idea, Yellowstone was in fact the beneficiary of the
Yosemite Park Act and, equally significant, of its reaffirmation by
Congress in 1868. By way of precedent, the Yosemite Grant had already
been publicized, established, challenged, and upheld. Under the
circumstances, the idea of public parks came more readily into focus;
long before Yellowstone had been explored and promoted, the model
pointing the way to its protection had been conceived and sustained.
In the final analysis, the matter of ownership was
the only major distinction between the two parks. [35] That distinction was reduced to a
technicality the moment the United States Senate refused in 1868 to
ratify California's legislation allowing private claims in Yosemite
Valley. To be sure, it was California in the first place that had
submitted the legislation to Congress for final review and approval. In
effect, that gesture alone validated the act of June 30, 1864, by
indicating that California both recognized and accepted the limitations
inherent in the transfer of Yosemite Valley from federal to state
ownership. The fact remains that Yosemite Park originated as a piece of
federal legislation, and was awarded to California only as long
as the state observed the express conditions contained in the act.
Obviously, if California had pressed the point in 1868, either by
failing to submit its legislation to Congress for review or by ignoring
Congress's final determination in the dispute, further legislation
leading to the revocation of the Yosemite Grant would have loomed as a
very real possibility.
Such disparities as its name and ownership aside,
Yosemite was in fact the first national park, the first park not only
established but also upheld by Congress. The irony was that Congress,
having disallowed private ownership in the park, nonetheless openly
promoted private investment in its facilities. On the one hand,
individual initiative was strictly curtailed; on the other, the Yosemite
Park Act legally sanctioned and encouraged it. Only leases were to be
granted for public camps and hotels; no properties supporting these
concessions could be privately owned. The point is that a major
foundation of the park experiment had been grounded in contradiction.
Individuals could still profit by promoting development; they simply
could not acquire the attractions themselves.
Concessionaires, it followed, would hedge their
investments with a greater say in park matters. Indeed, by 1868
potential investors were already complaining that ten-year leases were
not long enough. [36] Granted, James Lamon
and James Hutchings had apparently lost their battle to claim land in
Yosemite outright, but in truth the convictions of private property that
they had defended still largely prevailed. Private property remained
sacred; it was simply granted in different form. Accordingly, Yosemite
Valley, even as it became a park, still faced the critical problem of
limiting change and development. With barely a pause for reflection, the
nation had allowed business a legal means for exploiting the preserve.
What Yosemite might have been had every form of commercialism been
excluded from the outset was a riddle therefore left to future
generations.
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