Chapter 8:The National Park (continued)
On Saturday, September 1, Doane directed Scott to
take twenty men and scout down to Baronett's bridge, which crossed the
Yellowstone just above its confluence with the East Fork, to determine
if the Nez Perces had forded there and to fire the grass on his return
to frustrate their passage along the valley. [90] Scott moved out approximating a pony trail
that led from Blacktail Deer Creek to the bridge. He refused his Crow
scouts' advice to stay on the trail for fear of an ambush by the Nez
Perces. He described his procedure of advancing:
We did not go over a ridge until we were assured all
was safe beyond. With great difficulty in getting the horses down and
up, we crossed the deep, narrow box cañon of Blacktail Deer Creek
where there was no trail. The edge of the cañon was held by ten
men to hold back any Indians who, though unseen by us, were doubtless
watching us all the time, to keep them from coming up on the edge and
killing us all like rats. The other ten went down with me, and we
climbed out on the other side. Then we held the cañon edge for
the others. I felt very uneasy at putting the cañon between me
and the command, but had to carry out my orders. [91]
Reaching Baronett's bridge without sign of the Nez
Perces, Scott's men set the grass on fire, but rain shortly extinguished
it. Then the troops turned back. On the way, they came upon two scouts
sent from Colonel Sturgis's command east of the park who were to try to
find Howard. John J. Groff and J. S. Leonard had been fired on by
warriors as they traveled Blacktail Deer Creek Trail. The warriors had
wounded a fifteen-year-old Warm Springs Indian boy who had accompanied
them, and Groff had been shot through the neck. The boy disappeared into
the woods and was not seen again. [92] The
two men went ahead to Henderson's, where Groff received treatment for
his wound and rode in a wagon down to Fort Ellis. (Later, on his way
back to Sturgis with dispatches from Fort Ellis, Leonard was overtaken
and killed by the Nez Perces on Clark's Fork.) That night, Doane assumed
a defensive position in some dry irrigation ditches and established a
number of sentry posts around the bivouac.
Doane, a conscientious veteran officer revered by
Scott as "a thorough plainsman," decided to proceed up Gardner River on
the morrow on the advice of the Crows. He would leave the citizens with
sufficient supplies at Henderson's. But Doane's movement was preempted
by the appearance of a courier from Lieutenant Colonel Gilbert with
instructions for him to await his arrival. [93] Gilbert's message, written at Fort Ellis on
August 31, read as follows:
General Sherman and [Brevet Major] General Gibbon had
a conference in my presence day before yesterday, the issue of which
amounts to this, that I am to overtake you, assume Command of you and
your party, and then communicate with General Howard whose presence
General Sherman much needs in the Department of the Columbia, and should
Howard go at once I am to take the Command of his column. I expect to
camp about 10 miles out from this Post this afternoon of Sept. 2d, that
is to say the third day out. [94]
Doane took it upon himself to notify General Howard,
then passing through the park, with the following message:
The enclosed letter received by me last evening will
need no explanation. I am here with one Co 7th Cavalry, about 30
citizens, and 42 Crow scouts. Camped at a burning ranch, fired by the
Nez-Perces yesterday. Will await Col. Gilbert here but to-day am sending
you this to anticipate him. Please return a courier with the bearer of
this (who may be able to find you to-night). I will look for an answer
tomorrow night. Gen. Sturgis on Aug. 29th was at Crow Agency. His
command of 450 men, and Crow scouts besides, should be on Clarks Fork
about Heart Mt. but I fear he is not there. [95]
Bearing Sherman's message to Howard regarding the
transfer of his command, Gilbert and Company L, Second Cavalry, under
Lieutenant Schofield, reached Doane's force on September 3 and refused
to allow the lieutenant to proceed on his mission. Doane, with years of
Indian experience, firmly believed that the Nez Perces intended to move
down an age-old trail that paralleled the Yellowstone to where
Livingston, Montana, stands today and then cross to the Musselshell and
through Judith Gap to the hunting grounds. So anguished was Doane by
Gilbert's directive that, according to Scott, he wept. Taking command,
Gilbert marched the combined force back down the Yellowstone and away
from the Nez Perces to Miner's Creek; he then followed an old trail to
and up the West Gallatin River to the Madison long after Howard had left
Henry's Lake. Hardly a "young energetic officer," as specified by
Sherman, Gilbert (1822-1903), at fifty-five, was eight years older than
Howard. A West Point graduate (1846), Gilbert served in the Mexican and
Civil wars and had been wounded at Wilson's Creek in 1861. Appointed
acting major general and brigadier general of volunteers in 1862, his
star fell quickly after perceived command deficiencies at the Battle of
Perryville, Kentucky, and he ended the war a major at a desk job. In
1877, according to Scott, Gilbert mismanaged Doane's cavalry so badly
that the horses were starving. "We piled up twenty-five saddles on the
West Gallatin and left them there, unable to transport them, and we sent
twenty-five horses down the Madison by easy stages to Fort Ellis to
recuperate." [96] Several dismounted
cavalrymen escorted the animals to Ellis. "We went down the Yellowstone
a badly broken up command," said Scott. Gilbert never found Howard,
never delivered Sherman's missive, and never took over Howard's command.
The troops traveled slowly through the park on his trail, at one point
camping at a spot formerly occupied by the Nez Perces, where scout Jirah
Allen found several baby moccasins. "I could not repress a wish that the
fleeing, hunted creatures would get through all right." [97] Gilbert's men passed up and over Mount
Washburn, then on down the Yellowstone to its junction with the East
Fork. Here Doane and his fatigued men and animals departed for Fort
Ellis via Mammoth Hot Springs. Gilbert, with about twenty men, continued
on Howard's trail over to Clark's Fork before abandoning his mission "on
account of the worn-out condition of the animals" and returning through
the Crow Agency to Fort Ellis. Had Gilbert foregone his convoluted
pursuit of Howard and marched instead to Baronett's bridge, he would
have intercepted the general on his way down the Yellowstone on
September 5. [98]
On August 29, Howard's army pushed slowly up the
Madison and camped in the canyon within the park boundary. The general
sent a dispatch to McDowell, explaining that the Nez Perces might
diverge southeast to avoid the troops from Fort Ellis. [99] He sent a courier to Fort Ellis requesting
that Sturgis be informed "that the Indians will [probably] go by
Clarke's [sic] Fork, or make a wider detour, if bothered by troops, in
order to reach the Yellowstone. . . . I [now] do not think they will go
to Wind River country unless forced in that direction." He directed that
Captain Cushing move out and join Sturgis, if possible, and sent word to
General Crook to watch for signs of the tribesmen moving southeast. [100] Howard also took the opportunity to
prepare a field order lauding his men for their sacrifices and
attempting to put a bright face on a campaign of, at best, mixed
success, with hollow assurances that their "disciplined spirit" would be
rewarded "in the conscientious performance of duty." [101] "The chief incident of the day," penned
Major Mason, "was finding by the roadside the poor fellow who was shot
through the face by the Indians and afterwards escapedhe was
almost dead from hunger and cold." [102]
Albert Oldham was "all covered with blood and withal . . . a sad looking
spectacle." [103] Advancing farther into
the park on the thirtieth, Howard found many impediments to his advance.
"The country in which I was now operating was a river-gorge, or
cañon, walled in by precipices and choked by marsh and
undergrowth, the river so winding that in one day it had to be crossed
five times." [104] That day they crossed
the mouth of Gibbon River and started up the Firehole, camping on "a
fine level piece of land partly covered with pines and partly meadow,"
about one mile above the mouth of the East Fork of the Firehole. [105] Later that day, the wounded George Cowan,
who had been found the previous day by Howard's white scouts, was
brought in for treatment by the surgeons. As the column settled in camp,
many of its members took the opportunity to visit the geysers, marveling
at the "puffing steam, squirting boiling water, lakes of clear blue hot
water, holes full of boiling mud, chalk vats that made bubbles as large
as your hat, bountiful formations of soda and magnesia, [and] needles of
pure sulphur." On Friday, the column with its eleven wagons pushed up
the East Fork of the Firehole on the trail, encountering one of the
Radersburg party's wagons off to the right and slowly clearing a path
for the army supply wagons as they went. [106] At the base of Mary Mountain, the troops
stopped for the night. [107] Next morning,
September 1, Captain Spurgin of the Twenty-first Infantry brought his
engineering talent to the fore, ably directing his civilian "skillets"
in preparing the route up and over Mary Mountain. [108] As Henry Buck explained:
A route was laid out, not continuing on the old
Indian trail, but following up ridges and gullies, also along some very
steep side hills to pass from one ridge to another, where it would be
necessary to use guy ropes fastened to the top of the wagon box, and men
walk[ing] along side of the wagon, holding fast, thus preventing its
capsizing. The last stretch of about one-half mile of heavy grade
followed a sort of canyon or washout that was wide enough for the
passage of our wagons. The bottom was filled with huge rocks, many of
which it was necessary to roll aside before we could proceed. Our camp
was on a nice little prairie at the foot of Mary Mountain, thence it was
a dense forest to the summit, an estimated distance of three miles.
There had been a fire that had swept through the pines, and trees lay
criss-cross over each other on the way; much chopping had to be done and
also some pick and shovel work. It took until the middle of the
afternoon of the second [September 2], before we could make a start with
the train. [109]
Thus, from the Firehole River, Howard's route
paralleled the north side of the East Fork of the Firehole, gravitating
northeast as it ascended Mary Mountain and skirted the west side of
Mary's Lake. About one mile north of the lake, the road turned east,
then south, cutting along the east side of Highland Hot Springs and
continuing southeast for two miles before leveling east for ten miles
across the south edge of Hayden Valley to the Mud Volcano and the
Yellowstone River. [110]
On the morning of September 1, Howard moved his
troops ahead of the workmen to Mary Lake, where they went into camp.
During the day, more of the Bannocks began deserting the command and
tried to make off with about forty horses belonging to the laborers.
Eight of the scouts were arrested, and Howard made their release
contingent on the return of the stolen animals, which by the next day
had been accomplished. The remaining Bannocks (not counting those with
Fisher) were released and then left the command. "The brave Bannock
Indians have all deserted us," noted a correspondent, "and when we come
to weigh their usefulness against their perfidy the latter largely
predominates." [111] On the second, with
the road completed, the wagons began their ascent of Mary Mountain. "My
wagon was in the lead," recalled Henry Buck. "We hooked eight horses to
it and made the start. Other teams were doubled up in like manner and
our train was on the move." By noon on the third, all the wagons had
reached Mary Lake; they then proceeded across Sulphur Mountain down to
Alum Creek and toward the Falls of the Yellowstone. [112] Crossing a gentle plateau, they shortly
approached a wooded ridge extending toward the river. Henry Buck
remembered the details of the descent at what became known as "Spurgin's
Beaver Slide":
We . . . came to the conclusion that the only way to
get down was to take a jump of some five hundred feet. Someone suggested
to prepare a slide and go down hill like a beaver. The pines were not
thick and the ground was smooth, although about as steep as the roof of
an ordinary house. We picked a place that looked most suitable for our
descent and commenced clearing a roadway. . . . We had with us a very
large ropeone hundred feet longfor emergency cases and were
now all ready to "go". . . . One end of the rope was fastened to the
hind axle of my wagon, then two turns were made around a substantial
tree, with several men holding onto the end of the rope so that the
wagon could not get away, they payed it out as fast as the descent was
made. Nothing daunting, I climbed up into my spring seat and gathered up
the linesnot even taking off my leaders. I made the start downward
and nearly stood up straight on the foot rest of the wagon, it was so
steep. Slowly and carefully we went the length of the rope, when a halt
was called and, with the aid of a short rope made fast to the hind axle
and securely tied to another tree, we then loosened the long rope and
came down and made another two turns around a nearby tree and was then
ready for a second drive; thence a third and so on until the bottom was
reached in safety. The rope was then carried up the hill and another
teamster took courage to try his luck and his wagon, too, was landed at
the bottom of the hill. This routine was continued until all the wagons
in our train were safely landed on the little flat together. [113]
The wagons then proceeded to the Yellowstone River,
to a point about two miles above the upper falls, where they stopped for
the night. Passing through cold and rainy weather, on Tuesday, September
4, the wagons stalled at Cascade Creek. "From here we could see our
soldiers camp on the high plateau across the canyon, about on the same
ground where the Canyon Hotel now stands [in 1922]," remembered Buck.
[114] Again, the "skillets" stepped
forward and cleared a roadway through the trees and erected a pole
bridge across the stream. "The rope-act was here repeated to get our
wagons down and teams again doubled up for the long climb to camp on the
flat where the command lay
waiting for us." [115]
Howard's troops, meanwhile, had camped at the ford,
about six miles below Yellowstone Lake and near Mud Volcano, on the
first, where they found "plenty of wormy fish." Next day, the command
awaited the arrival of wagons from Fort Ellis bearing rations and badly
needed clothing; many had been wearing the same outfits over the past
several weeks. That afternoon, Captain Robert Pollock ordered Company D
of the Twenty-first to strip and bathe in a medium-temperature hot
spring. "Red flannels got a washing as did some choicer hides which had
not seen water since leaving Wallula." [116] And on the evening of the second, the
discharged soldier James Irwin had appeared, having escaped the
tribesmen and encountered Fisher and his scouts up Pelican Creek. As
previously indicated, he provided Howard with important news of the
composition, organization, condition, and general location of the Nez
Perces. Reported Howard: "The fact that they had a white man detained as
prisoner and compelled to act as guide was encouraging as showing their
ignorance of the country." [117] The
general's Bannock scouts supplemented Irwin's information that the Nez
Perces were headed in the direction of Clark's Fork, and Howard sent
this word back by courier to Fort Ellis, attempting to coordinate with
Captain Cushing's and Colonel Sturgis's columns. Howard also took
Irwin's advice to follow down the Yellowstone River by a more accessible
route than that of the Nez Perces. Therefore, on the afternoon of the
third, the provisions having arrived, the troops marched down the left
bank of the river and camped "on a little flat just above and nearly
abreast of the lower falls." [118] On
Tuesday, the general, distressed over Irwin's news that the Nez Perces
had sent envoys to the Crows, dispatched a notice urging "that steps be
taken to capture this delegation and prevent the Crows from forming an
alliance with them." [119]
Because of the difficulty and delay in moving the
wagons forward, Howard decided to cut loose from them, directing Spurgin
to take them out of the park to Fort Ellis. Spurgin then continued down
the Yellowstone, through Dunraven Pass and into Carnelian Creek valley,
then slowly moved toward Tower Creek and down that stream to its
junction with the Yellowstone. On the way, his men sighted Indians on a
distant mountain, and Spurgin broke out the ammunition and, assuming a
defensive position, braced for an attack. But they proved to be some of
Doane's Crow scouts, and the excitement waned. The wagoners and
civilians then detoured around Tower Fall, journeyed down the
Yellowstone to strike Gardner River about one and one-half miles above
its mouth, and erected a bridge to cross it. Then they went on down the
Yellowstone and out of the park. [120]
Forging ahead with his supplies now carried by the
pack animals, Howard's force on September 5 reached the confluence of
the Yellowstone with the East Fork to find that Baronett's bridge had
just been burned. (The act was probably accomplished by a Nez Perce
party that included the "Snake chief"probably the Shoshone, Little
Bearwho, Shively told an interviewer, had burned the bridge. This
party had traveled down the East Fork about August 31 from the body or
bodies moving in the vicinity of Cache or Calfee creeks. [121]) Howard quickly made repairs utilizing
logs found in an abandoned house and crossed his army, continuing up the
East Fork of the Yellowstone after having learned from miners about the
Nez Perces' attack on Henderson's ranch and Mammoth Hot Springs. (A
group of Howard's scouts under "Captain" Robbins also rode to Mammoth
and Henderson's to survey the destruction there.) He also heard that
Colonel Gilbert had undertaken a "stern chase" in the wrong direction to
find Howard. On the sixth, the soldiers started up Soda Butte Canyon,
and on the seventh, couriers from Sturgis appeared, bringing Howard his
first concrete knowledge of that officer's position near Clark's Fork,
east of the park. The general sent three couriers to Sturgis (none of
whom reached him) and dispatched orders to Cushing at Fort Ellis to
hurry supplies forward to Clark's Fork. "Indians are between me and
Sturgis," he told Cushing, "and I hope we shall entrap them this time.
By marching toward Clarke's [sic] Fork you will be ready to re-enforce
either Colonel Sturgis or myself." [122]
Continuing northeast up Soda Butte Canyon (which Howard renamed "Jocelyn
Canyon" for that Twenty-first Infantry officer), the troops arrived at
the New Galena Smelting Works, there veering off east-southeast to
intersect Clark's Fork, which they traversed on September 8, descending
to the mouth of Crandall Creek where reports had indicated the Nez
Perces were headed. Meanwhile, his scouts followed the tribesmen's trail
from the mouth of Soda Butte Canyon that probably led up Cache Creek and
its tributaries to Hoodoo Basin. Observed one member of that party:
The Indians camped here and it looks as though they
had got brushed, or rather, lost; for the trail is new and they have had
a most difficult matter to get out, but out they have got of course, and
over a trail that beats anything we have yet found. . . . A great
curiosity consists of a washed-out basin, where the constant action of
the elements has left pinnacles, towers and battlements of titanic
structure. . . . [The Indians] now number, nearly 200 lodges; their
strength has been largely increased as is evident by the more numerous
lodge fires we found at their camping places. [123]
As the Indians passed through and exited the park,
the troops of several commands had begun converging on them, hoping to
close their way to the north and east and to compel their surrender. In
fact, the time spent by the Nez Perces in getting out of the national
park actually facilitated that troop deployment. But the experience of
the soldiers and the Nez Perces in the national park was also important
from several other standpoints. For one, it compounded the difficulty
the tribesmen faced in their efforts to reach the buffalo country and
their anticipated union with the Crows, and it may consequently have
affected decisions about their final destination. Furthermore, the delay
of the people in getting through the park made it additionally unlikely
that the Crowsever more firmly fixed in their service capacity to
the army commandwould provide the relief and support they sought.
While in the park, the Nez Perces' dramatic encounters with the tourist
parties pointed up not only the fragmentation of control authority that
existed among them, but revealed the mix of searing hatred toward whites
still evident among some warriors in the wake of the Big Hole, with that
of the compassion evinced by elements of their leadership. But as it
affected the Nez Perces, the trek through the park wilderness also
further tried the endurance of Howard's weary men. For their commander,
while the objective of the Nez Perces' defeat and surrender was not
realized, a residual benefit came in the nature of the knowledge gained
from scouts and informants about their strength, composition, and
condition that could contribute to produce their final subjugation.
Having finally pushed through the park, and thus encouraged by the
notices that the tribesmen were at hand, a reinvigorated General Howard
remained confident that, between his own force and Sturgis's
strategically poised command, the long and trying odyssey of the
nontreaty Nez Perces was at its end. [124]
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