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Survey of
Historic Sites and Buildings
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Gates of the Rocky Mountains
Montana
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Location; Lewis and Clark County. A stretch of the
Missouri River about 5-3/4 miles long in Holter Lake, roughly
equidistant between Holter and Hauser Dams, along the northwestern tip
of the Helena National Forest. Accessible only by boat. A secondary
road, however, runs a little more than 3 miles to the northeast from
I-15 (U.S. 91-287), at a point about 15 miles north of Helena, to Lewis
and Clark Landing. The landing is on the western bank of Holter Lake not
far above the upstream, or southern, end of the gates area. All other
parts of the area are inaccessible by road.
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Although the expedition had actually entered the
Rocky Mountains at the Great Falls of the Missouri, Lewis named this
stretch of river the "Gates of the Rocky Mountains," today usually
called "Gates of the Mountains."
On July 19, 1805, not long after leaving the Great
Falls of the Missouri and shortly before arriving at the Three Forks of
the Missouri, the main body of the expedition, in eight canoes under the
command of Lewis, passed through the gatesa cliff-walled,
claustrophobic, gloomy expanse of river. The day before, Clark, Joseph
Field, Potts, and York had set out overland to seek the Shoshonis, so
they did not see it. Returning from the Pacific, on July 16, 1806,
Ordway and nine men passed through the gates. They were en route from
the Three Forks, where they had left the Clark group, to the Great Falls
to join the Sergeant Gass detachment of the Lewis party.
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Photograph of unknown date showing the Gates of the Mountains before
downstream Holter Dam was built, which raised the water level about 100
feet. This view looks toward the south, or upstream. (Montana Historical Society.) |
Today, Holter Dam, two more dams above it, and their
reservoirs create an almost continuous 70-mile-long lake that has
drastically changed the Missouri in a region originally comprising some
of its most spectacular scenery. No one will ever again see this sight
as the Lewis and Ordway parties saw it. The Montana Power Company's
Holter Dam, a few miles below the northern exit of the gates, backs up
26-1/2 miles of water in Holter Lake reservoir to the same company's
Hauser Dam. The latter creates 16-1/2-mile-long Hauser Lake and Lake
Helena in the Helena Valley. Finally, the Canyon Ferry Dam, erected by
the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, makes 25-mile-long Canyon Ferry
Reservoir, which extends to Townsend, Mont.
Yet, despite the greatly elevated water level in the
gates area, the spectacular cliffs and sheer rock walls are still so
high that the effect of the change is diminished. The only really
perceptible difference is the stream's current, which is now placid
instead of swift. During the summer months, a cruise boat named
Sacajawea II takes visitors on daily trips through the gates from
Lewis and Clark Landing.
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Missouri River gorge and canyon within the Gates of the Mountains, near
Helena, at an unknown date. (Montana
Historical Society.) |
To the north of the gates, from their downriver, or
northern, end to a point about 30 road miles southwest of Great Falls
where I-15 leaves the Missouri, the river passes through beautiful
mountain scenery and threads its way through several closely confined
canyons. The highway parallels the stream on its west side, avoiding
many of its widest loops, but running alongside it at many places and
affording a fine opportunity to see the Missouri in intermountain plain
and mountain canyon. This area, as well as that north of it to the city
of Great Falls, is much like it was in the time of Lewis and Clark. At
the southern, or upstream, end of the gates is located a ranch, at which
point the surrounding land bellies out into a pleasant wide mountain
cove. This stretch of river is not visible from I-15 nor accessible by
road.
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/lewisandclark/site19.htm
Last Updated: 22-Feb-2004
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