Hubbell Trading Post Cultural Landscape Report

ANALYSIS OF LANDSCAPE CHARACTERISTICS (continued)

Cluster Arrangement

Within the landscape associated with the Hubbell occupation, numerous clusters have been established, These clusters may be characterized to reflect both the land use activities and the routine operations of the historic trading post and residence, Most of the clustering occurred in the vicinity of the trading post and residential compound and the barn lot and corral area (Appendix 4). The majority of the outdoor domestic activities were clustered within the residential compound and these included washing and drying of laundry, initial food preparation (both meat and vegetable), storage of fuel wood and coal, and sanitation (numerous privies were historically located west of the residence).

Three separate use areas are clustered within the area of the corrals. Pens and runs were clustered on the east side for the sheep trading operation, the main central corral was utilized by the Hubbell family for their domestic stock, and the corral and sheds on the west end were used for both storage and shelter for the family's horses and mules. On occasion the family's dairy cows were kept in the northeast corner of the sheds in a little separate corral so that the mules and slaughter cattle would not eat their feed. [136] According to Cook and Brown, the distinctions of these three operations — sheep trading, domestic stock, and the freighting business are essential chapters of the interpretive story of the Hubbell landscape. [137]

The holding pens for the sheep were divided into six or seven small pens where they could separate out the various categories of sheep for market. Each of the pens included watering and feeding troughs so the animals could be held until shipping time. The individual pens were connected by narrow alleys and small gates which led to the loading chute as well as the lane to the surrounding fields.

The surrounding barn lot area was at various times used for the freight stock, stockpiling hay and wood and other resources until further processing was possible, and the storage of various pieces of farm equipment.

With the exception of the sheep pens and corrals the historic cluster arrangements associated with this vernacular landscape are difficult to distinguish. The integrity of this particular landscape characteristic is minimal but does contribute to the overall integrity of the resource.

Circulation

The historic circulation patterns associated with the Hubbell property evolved through time and reflected changes in the economic and social development of modes of transportation in both the nation and the region. During the late nineteenth century the primary modes of transportation were pedestrian, horse-back, and horse, mule, or oxen drawn wagon. The circulation network consisted of myriad foot, horse, and informal wagon paths crisscrossing throughout the landscape. Although there were most likely a few established routes connecting the few populated areas within the area, most of the routes were informal and random (ie. the path of least resistance from point A to point B).

With the establishment of the trans-continental railroad in the 1880s, there were numerous supply depots and small communities founded south of the Navajo Reservation. The advent of these supply and shipping centers resulted in the development of a more formalized network of roads leading into and through the reservation lands. The Hubbell trading post and other similar trading operations were dependent on the movement of freight wagons from these supply centers to the remote locations of the various posts. Little information is available regarding the establishment of formal or improved road systems in this region particularly on the Navajo Reservation prior to the second quarter of the twentieth century.

During the first quarter of the 20th century J.L. Hubbell and his sons acquired automobiles for their personal use although the poor condition of the roads on the reservation made auto travel challenging if not impossible at times. For this reason the Hubbells continued to utilize freight wagons well into the 1920s. By the mid 1920s the family acquired a small fleet of freighter trucks but retained their freight wagons for use during inclement weather conditions.

According to one of Hubbell's employees and an area resident Hubbell was not concerned about the oftentimes poor condition of the roads leading to his establishment. Arthur Hubbard states:

I don't think the man Hubbell had much of idea for bringing anymore improvement than what he himself put up. By that I mean he didn't want to improve roads. It was Dr. Salisbury. Dr. Salisbury's time way after the old man was out of his political influence, past his times.

Then somebody says "we need better roads." Progress follows roads, so we need roads. He (Hubbell) was content to leave just the old wagon trails then. He never pushed for betterment of the old wagon trails. Not even flat blade of it, just leave it as it is. So another words discourage competition. So betterment of roads were not his, not anything he was interested in. He was interested in everything else, like water for giving his land in for production and the means of getting the people to come to his store to do business with him. But as for providing means of easier access for other people, non-Indians to come in and settle in. He wasn't interested in that. [138]

As mentioned earlier in this report, the main road historically ran in a north-south direction and the Pueblo Colorado Wash was forded until the first bridge was constructed in the mid 1920s by the Bureau of Indian Affairs (BIA). A 1931 photograph provides a glimpse of the bridge and the newly improved road (figure 86). This road was closed by the National Park Service in 1967 and the bridge removed. The road that serves as the park's entrance road was historically utilized by the Hubbell family and utilized one of the earliest bridges on site to cross the arroyo south of the Pueblo Colorado Wash (figure 87). The wood plank bridge that currently exists marks the location of this historic structure. The road intersects with historic Navajo Route 3, now identified as Arizona State Highway 264.

Figure 86. Highway bridge crossing Pueblo Colorado Wash adjacent to Hubbell Trading Post, 1931. Photograph taken by LaCharles Eckel.

Figure 87. Hubbell grandchildren sitting on early bridge on road leading southwest away from Trading Post. (HUTR 22814).

During the 1950s a special study noted that the "BIA has appropriated funds to improve roads on the Navajo Reservation Route 3, which is already being surfaced parallels U.S. Hwy. 66 and extends from Window Rock through Tuba City. [139] The same report further noted that there were "plans for the completion of surfacing Route 3 between 666 and U.S. 89 by 1957. This initiative for road improvements during the 1950s drastically changed circulation into and within the reservation lands.

The closure of the primary north-south route into the trading post landscape was determined essential for management purposes and included the closure of an unimproved wagon lane/field road that ran from this intersection west along the south bank of the Pueblo Colorado Wash. The alignments of these roads are still evident as are other historic field roads throughout the landscape.

The historic pedestrian paths were informal in nature and design with the exception of the concrete walks added by the Hubbell family in the immediate vicinity of the residence and the guest hogan and the flagstone walk added by the community in the vicinity of the chapter house These walks have been modified by the Park Service over the past few years. The walks around the residence have been changed from concrete to flagstone and the walk leading to the chapter house has recently been realigned to provide for both visitor safety and accessibility. Other additions or modifications with regard to pedestrian circulation on the site include the informal footpath that connects the park housing area with the administrative offices and trading post, the installation of informally and irregularly placed stepping stones in the alley between the main residence and the trading post, and the flagstone entry paving at the eastern entrance into the trading post. It should be noted that these additions are visually compatible and characteristic of the vernacular landscape and assist in providing safe access to the site.

Overall, the character-defining historic circulation patterns and associated features have retained good integrity and continue to serve as movement corridors throughout the Hubbell landscape. The orientation, layout, scale and general appearance of the vernacular landscape's circulation system continue to reflect the roads and walks used by the Hubbell family while they lived and worked at the trading post. The features associated with the Hubbell landscape circulation systems contribute to the integrity of location, design, setting, and workmanship of the site.

Vegetation

Early written accounts of the property contribute little to our knowledge and understanding of the vegetation present within the study area during the last quarter of the nineteenth century. A few early photographs which date from the 1890s provide glimpses of the land and the sparse vegetation around the trading post and residential compound (figure 88).

As mentioned earlier, with the exception of a variety of fruit trees and cultivated crops such as alfalfa, oats, rye, corn, and truck crops the Hubbells did not actively introduce vegetation into the landscape until around 1918. During the late teens and early 1920's it seems they began to plant ornamental shrubs, vines, and trees for shade.

According to the numerous interviews with Hubbells grandchildren and others who frequented the site, the variety of vegetation was noteworthy and appears to have been a characteristic visual element within the landscape. During its heyday the Hubbell landscape must have resembled a bright green oasis amidst the surrounding tans, greys, and reds of the Colorado Plateau. The extensive irrigated fields of alfalfa lined with the numerous fruit and cottonwood trees and the large vegetable gardens located east, west and south of the trading post offered a dramatic contrast to the surrounding landscape in both color and texture. As evidenced from numerous historic photographs much of the landscape immediately surrounding the trading post and residence was devoid of vegetation, probably as a result of intense grazing and trampling.

Figure 88. Historic photograph of early Leonard/Hubbell Trading Post site, pre-1913, showing sparse vegetative cover.

There were three separate areas that have been documented as vegetable garden plots and they include the terraces immediately east of the trading post, the area west of the residence and south of the guest hogan, and the area south of the stone bunkhouse. An interview with L. Hubbell Parker, Hubbell's grandson notes that "the terrace next to the road in front of the store was planted all in fruit and vegetables....squash, watermelons and other melons, corn, etc. After he (grandfather) was gone it was not used for that. The manure from the corrals was spread on that terrace and things really grew well there." [140]

The family grew quite a variety of vegetables including kale, lettuce, rhubarb, horseradish, watermelons, pumpkins, beets, carrots, banana melons, cantaloupes, cucumbers, potatoes, sweet potatoes, peanuts, and corn. Hubbell's granddaughter LaCharles Eckel reminisced: "In the summertimes when he (Hubbell) was here and we'd get up early, then we'd go out and look at the farm. If there were any cucumbers ripe, why we might have a cucumber before breakfast. If the sugarcane was ready we'd each get a section of sugarcane before breakfast. That was sort of our time together, really." [141]

According to Dorothy Hubbell, the garden area west of the yard and flower gardens was where the family planted their melons, sweet potatoes, and peanuts (at least for one year). [142] An historic photograph shows one of Hubbell's grandsons in this garden area holding a very large beet (figure 89). It seems the main vegetable garden area during J.L. Hubbell's life was immediately east of the trading post in the northwest corner of the large field and this was later moved to the garden plot south of the stone bunkhouse.

Dorothy also noted that "the main vegetable garden was back where the trailer now is (note: the vegetables where Friday's cornpatch is. We raised spinach, kale, cabbage, green beans, tomatoes and other things." [143] She continued, "we put up fruits and relish, jelly and jam, but didn't usually preserve vegetables. Pumpkins, squash, and cabbage were put in the root cellar. We would buy dried peaches from the Hopis." [144]

In addition to the vegetable garden plots mentioned above, the Hubbells also planted a cornfield that was kept fenced separately from the surrounding alfalfa fields. Dorothy references this field and identifies it as "Friday's cornpatch". This field was located immediately west of the stone bunk house and ham lot area and the southern boundary fence is still intact and readily discernible today.

Figure 89. Hubbell's grandson, John L. Hubbell, holding large beet. (HUTR 4531).

As for vegetation in the yard area, Dorothy Hubbell notes:

"When I first came, the old house (Leonard post) was out there and there was no garden (reference to flower gardens) except for some calendulas, During my first year here my mother sent me some dahlia bulbs and I planted them. When the house (Leonard post) was torn down the area was made into flower beds. We had a lot of roses, all different kinds...Roman brought slips from a friend in Gallup for the yellow roses...the castio they called it. He also brought in the yucca plants (figure 90). [145]

Figure 90. Dorothy Hubbell in flower garden, around 1925. (HUTR 7111).

She continues:

At one time we had a row of poplars just inside the wall. The roots spread out and nothing else would grow well, so we had to cut them. The lilac bushes were planted very early, but after I was here (1920). I can remember their being planted, but don't recall just when it was. The blue lilac by the little stone house was here when I came. Sais (the barnman) would cover it in the early spring with a piece of "manta" (muslin) to keep it from freezing and it bloomed every yea. We also had some pink wild roses there (in the front yard garden area). Every spring the medicine men would come in and ask to cut pieces for their uses. I would let them have a few, but tell them not to take them all.

The circular stone planter in the garden was called the "cactus bed" because at first it was planted with cactus and the yellow roses were about the outside only. Roman brought in the petrified logs. The wood vine or Virginia creeper was around the house when I came. We planted the wood vine and silver lace vines by the arbor (shade ramada). We also had two honeysuckles, one on each side of the entry to the arbor. The arbor was built over a filled in well. It was already up in 1920, just like it is now, with the silver lace vine. We called it the summer house. The picnic area was put in after I came, I don't remember when. [146]

Dorothy also mentioned in an interview that the "terrace just north of the house was always in grass" [147] but this statement has not been corroborated by other sources of documentation. Historic photographs clearly reveal that the lawn covered terrace was not installed until around 1929 although earlier photographs from the mid to late 1920's show some grass in the area (figures 91, 92, and 93). It is true that from the time of its introduction at that late date efforts have been made to maintain it as a grass covered area.

As for the trees historically found within the Hubbell landscape, numerous sources state that Hubbell and his family planted them as there were very few trees left on site once the agricultural fields were cleared of their native pinyon and juniper. The cut junipers were used for the fence posts and the small pines were used for the poles across the top of the fence to make a Kentucky style fence.

Many elder Navajo noted in interviews with park staff that there have been major changes in the Pueblo Colorado Valley with regard to vegetation and the drainages and other natural features. LaCheenie Blacksheep mentioned the dramatically increased depth of the Pueblo Colorado Wash where it runs through the Hubbell landscape. He noted that "Lok'aa (reeds) and K'aih (willows) of two types, the green ones and the gray ones" grew down through the valley along the wash. "They are all washed away now." [148] When asked "how big were the willows?" he stated "they were tall. About the height of this house. When the wash is flooded it lays them down and covers them with silt. These later grew out again thereby sort of build up the deep arroyo. That's the only way to refill these deep arroyo...there's nothing there to keep it from eroding, only sand and that's why it's hard to control these washes." [149]

Figure 91. Hubbell's grandson, John L. Hubbell (Jack), with Airedale, Robin Hood. (HUTR 22828).

Figure 92. John Hubbell and "Auntie Bob" (Barbara Hubbell Goodman) in flower garden, around 1928. (HUTR 23063).

Figure 93. Monnie, Dorothy, Betty, and Jack in flower garden area in front of Hubbell home. Note lush, grassy lawn and flower gardens with summer house. (HUTR 22823).

Soon after clearing the fields Hubbell set about planting trees. The trees included cottonwood as well as a variety of fruit and nut trees. LaCheenie Blacksheep and others noted that Hubbell planted the rows of cottonwood along the perimeter of his fields and along the irrigation ditch lines. [150] He also planted his fruit and nut trees along the ditches and field perimeters. Dorothy Hubbell mentioned that "at one time there was a row of cottonwood trees all up the lane to the south. Mr Collins cut them all out. They were cut out before I came, but I heard about it. Collins was the foreman of the farm, but later either Mr. Hubbell or Roman took charge of the farm themselves." [151] Dorothy also noted that she remembered "planting a lot of cottonwood trees in the wash. They grew into big trees and then the tribe had them all cut down in a work project one year." [152]

As a result of the introduced vegetation the Hubbell landscape took on an even greater contrast with the surrounding reservation lands. Arthur Hubbard stated:

In the springtime, around Hubbells it was really a treat to go down and around there because the pussywillows and the little pommy (?) out there would be coming out. The trees would be leaping (sic...leafing?) out. He had a lot of cottonwood trees down there. the little birds, the yellow birds would come through to migrate through in the springtime. That was the only green place, a lot of cottonwood trees and they would all come in there. The boys used to go down there to try and kill some of them for the medicine man. They sure ask for yellow bird and woodpeckers. [153]

Dorothy Hubbell also comments on this as she states:

We had all kinds of fruit trees. Mr. Hubbell bought them and planted them all along the ditches. The apricot tree in the courtyard grew from a seed that was just thrown out and we protected it. The walnut trees and the mulberry trees were already here in 1920. When I was no longer growing alfalfa (late 1950's early 1960's) I would have Friday irrigate to keep the fruit trees growing. He didn't like to do it, thought it a waste of water. [154]

During the 1930's and early 1940's new exotic trees were being introduced to the landscape as the Hubbell's followed the recommendations of the federal agricultural agencies such as the Soil Conservation Service in an effort to curb ongoing erosion of the land. These exotics included the elms and the silver-leaved poplar that were most likely introduced to the school house tract in the mid 1930s as part of the site improvement project by the Bureau of Indian Affairs (BIA). It is possible that the saltcedar and the Russian olive were also introduced to the area at this time in an effort aimed at erosion control in the Pueblo Colorado Wash. Dorothy Hubbell mentioned that Russian olive trees were planted around the barbecue pit and picnic area while she was there and this was likely in the early to mid 1940's shortly after this special outdoor use area was installed. [155] It has been estimated that the row of elms on the field embankment south of the school house/chapter house tract was planted in the early 1940's although this has not been confirmed.

Following the introduction of the exotic invasive species such as Russian olive, tamarisk, and silver-leaved poplar the landscape began to take on a new appearance and the erosion control problems in the wash continued almost unhampered. Over the past 50 years the vegetation along the wash has evolved into a dense canopy of fine textured and noticeably exotic species all but eliminating the native flora population.

Although the vegetation within the agricultural fields is reverting to a combination of native and exotic shrubs and grasses, the character of the fields remains somewhat intact as the terrace patterning and overall configurations are still readily evident. There are numerous historic plant specimens that remain throughout the landscape including apricot, apple, mulberry, plum, cottonwood, elm, and walnut trees; ornamental shrubs, vines and flowers such as the lilacs, silver lace vine, yuccas, roses, and irises; and even remnants of alfalfa in some of the field areas. These plant materials make a significant contribution to the overall integrity of the landscape with regard to location, design, materials, and feeling.