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PREHISTORIC VILLAGES, CASTLES, AND TOWERS OF SOUTHWESTERN COLORADO.
CLASSIFICATION.
(continued)
VILLAGES
RECTANGULAR RUINS OF THE PURE TYPE
As the word is used in this report, a village is a
cluster of houses separated from each other, each building constructed
on the same plan, viz, a circular ceremonial room or kiva with mural
banquettes and pilasters for the support of a vaulted roof, inclosed in
rectangular rooms. When there is one kiva and surrounding angular rooms
we adopt the name "unit type." When, as in the larger mounds, there are
indications of several kivas or unit types consolidatedthe size
being in direct proportion to the numberwe speak of the building
as belonging to the "pure type." Doctor Prudden, who first pointed out
the characteristics of the "unit type," [1] has shown its wide
distribution in the McElmo district. The Mummy Lake village has 16
mounds indicating houses. Far View House, one of these houses, is made
up of an aggregation of four unit types and hence belongs to the
author's "pure type."
1The situation of the cemetery, one of the characters of Prudden's
"unit type," appears constant in one-kiva buildings, but is variable in
the pure type, and, as shown in the author's application of the unit
type to the crowded condition in Spruce-tree House and other
cliff-houses, does not occur in the same position as in pueblos of the
pure type open to the sky.
While villages similar to the Mummy Lake group, in
the valleys near Mesa Verde, have individual variations, the essential
features are the same, as will appear in the following descriptions of
Surouaro, and ruins at Goodman Point, Mud Spring, Aztec Spring, and
Mitchell Spring. Commonly, in these villages, one mound predominates in
size over the others, and while rectangular in form, has generally
circular depressions on the surface, recalling conditions at Far View
mound before excavation. These mounds indicate large buildings in
blocks, made up of many unit forms of the pure type, united into compact
structures. One large dominant member of the village recalls those ruins
where the village is consolidated into one community pueblo. The
separation of mounds in the village and their concentration in the
community house may be of chronological importance, although the
relative age of the simple and composite forms can not at present be
determined; but it is important to recognize that the units of
construction in villages and community buildings are identical.
SUROUARO
The cluster of mounds formerly called Surouaro, now
known as Yellow Jacket Spring Ruin, is situated near the head of the
canyon of the same name to the left of the Monticello road, 14 miles
west of Dolores. This village (pls. 1, c; 2, c) contains
both large and small houses of the pure pueblo type, covering an area
somewhat less than the Mummy Lake group, on the Mesa Verde. The
arrangement of mounds in clusters naturally recalls the Galisteo and
Jemez districts, New Mexico, where, however, the arrangement of the mounds
and the structure of each is different. The individual houses in a Mesa
Verde or Yellow Jacket village were not so grouped as to inclose a
rectangular court, but were irregularly distributed with intervals of
considerable size between them. [1]
1In his valuable study, Pueblo Ruins of the Galisteo
Basin, New Mexico (Anthrop. Papers of the Amer. Mus. Nat. Hist., vol.
xv, pt. 1, 1914), Mr. Nelson figures (Plan I, B) an embedded circular
kiva in what he calls the "historic part" of the Galisteo Ruin, but does
not state how he distinguishes the historic from the prehistoric part of
this building. The other kivas at Galisteo are few in number and not
embedded, but situated outside the house masses as in historic
pueblos.
The largest mound in the Surouaro village, shown in
plate 1, c, corresponds with the so-called "Upper House" of Aztec
Spring Ruin, but is much larger than Far View or any other single mound
in the Mummy Lake village.
Surouaro was one of the first ruins in this region
described by American explorers, attention having been first called to
it by Professor Newberry, [2] whose description follows:
"Surouaro is the name of a ruined town which must have once contained a
population of several thousands. The name is said to be of Indian (Utah)
origin, and to signify desolation, and certainly no better could have
been selected.... The houses are, many of them, large, and all built of
stone, hammer dressed on the exposed faces. Fragments of pottery are
exceedingly common, though like the buildings, showing great age. . . .
The remains of metates (corn mills) are abundant about the
ruins. The ruins of several large reservoirs, built of masonry, may be
seen at Surouaro, and there are traces of acequias which led to them,
through which water was brought, perhaps from a great distance."
2Report of the exploring expedition from Santa Fe,
New Mexico, to the Junction of the Grand and Green Rivers of the Great
Colorado of the West in 1859, under the command of Capt. J. N. Macomb,
p. 88, Washington, 1876.
GOODMAN POINT RUIN
This ruin is a cluster of small mounds surrounding
larger ones, recalling the arrangement at Aztec Spring. They naturally
fall into two groups which from their direction or relation to the
adjacent spring may be called the south and north sections.
The most important mound of the south section, Block
A, measures 74 feet on the north, 79 feet on the south, and 76 feet on
the west side. This large mound corresponds morphologically to the
"Upper House" at Aztec Spring (fig. 1, A.) About it there are
arranged at intervals, mainly on the north and east sides, other smaller
mounds generally indicating rectangular buildings. The southeast angle
of the largest is connected by a low wall with one of the smaller
mounds, forming an enclosure called a court, whose northern border is
the rim of the canyon just above the spring. A determination of the
detailed architectural features of the building
buried under Block A is not possible, as none of its
walls stand above the mass of fallen stones, but it is evident, from
circular depressions and fragments of straight walls that appear over
the surface of the mound, that the rooms were of two kinds, rectangular
forms, or dwellings, and circular chambers, or kivas. This mound
resembles Far View House on the Mesa Verde before excavation.
A large circular depression, 56 feet in diameter, is
situated in the midst of the largest mounds. A unique feature of this
depression, recognized and described by Doctor Prudden, are four piles
of stones, regularly arranged on the floor. The author adopts the
suggestion that this area was once roofed and served as a central
circular kiva, necessitating a roof of such dimensions that four masonry
pillars served for its support. The mound measures about 15 feet in
height, and has large trees growing on its surface, offering evidence of
a considerable age. Several other rooms are indicated by circular
surface depressions, but their relation to the rectangular rooms can be
determined only by excavation.
JOHNSON RUIN
This ruin, to which the author was conducted by Mr.
C. K. Davis, is about 4 miles west of the Goodman Point Ruin near Mr.
Johnson's ranch house, in section 12, township 36, range 18. It is said
to be situated at the head of Sand Canyon, a tributary of the McElmo,
and is one of the largest ruins visited. The remains of former houses
skirt the rim of the Canyon head for fully half a mile, forming a
continuous series of mounds in which can be traced towers, great houses,
and other types of buildings, and numerous depressions indicating sunken
kivas. The walls of these buildings were, however, so tumbled down that
little now remains above ground save piles of stones in which tops of
buried walls may still be detected, but not without some difficulty. In
a cave under the "mesa rim" there is a small cliff-house in the walls of
which extremities of the original wooden rafters still remain in
place.
In an open clearing, about 3 miles south and west of
Mr. J. W. Fulk's house, Renaraye post office, there is a small ruin of
rectangular form, the ground plan of which shows two rectangular
sections of different sizes, joined at one angle. The largest section
measures approximately 20 by 50 feet. It consists of low rooms
surrounding two circular depressions, possibly kivas. Although
constructed on a small scale, this section reminds one of the Upper
House of Aztec Spring Ruin. The smaller section, which also has a
rectangular form, has remains of high rooms on opposite sides and low
walls on the remaining sides. In the enclosed area there is a circular
depression or reservoir, corresponding with the reservoir of the Lower
House at Aztec Spring Ruin.
BUG MESA RUIN
The author was guided by Mr. H. S. Merchant to a
village ruin, one of the largest visited, situated a few miles from his
ranch house. This village is about 10 miles due south of the store at
the head of Dove Creek, and consists of several large mounds, each about
500 feet long, arranged parallel to each other, and numerous isolated
smaller mounds. Nor far from this large ruin there is a prehistoric
reservoir estimated as covering about 4 acres. Many circular
depressions, indicated kivas, and lines of stones showed tops of buried
rectangular rooms. Excavations in a small mound near this ruin were
conducted by Doctor Prudden. [1]
1Memoirs Amer. Anthrop. Asso., vol. v, no. 1, 1918.
The canyon which heads near the corral on the road to
Merchant's house revealed no evidence of prehistoric dwellings.
MITCHELL SPRING RUIN
This ruin takes its name from the earliest known
description of it by Morgan, [2] which was compiled from notes
by Mr. Mitchell, one of the early settlers in Montezuma Valley. Morgan's
account is as follows:
2Houses and House-life of the American Aborigines.
Cont. N. Amer. Ethn., vol. iv, pp. 189-190, 1831.
"Near Mr. Mitchell's ranch, and within a space of
less than a mile square, are the ruins of nine pueblo houses of moderate
size. They are built of sandstone intermixed with cobblestone and adobe
mortar. They are now in a very ruinous condition, without standing walls
in any part of them above the rubbish. The largest of the number is
marked No. 1 in the plan, figure 44, of which the outline of the
original structure is still discernible. It is 94 feet in length and 47
feet in depth, and shows the remains of a stone wall in front inclosing
a small court about 15 feet wide. The mass of material over some parts
of this structure is 10 or 12 feet deep. There are, no doubt, rooms with
a portion of the walls still standing covered with rubbish, the removal
of which would reveal a considerable portion of the original ground
plan."
The author paid a short visit to the Mitchell Spring
village and by means of Morgan's sketch map was able to identify without
difficulty the nine mounds and tower he represents. The village at
Mitchell Spring differs from that at Mud Spring and at Aztec Spring
mainly in the small size and diffuse distribution of the component
mounds and an absence of any one mound larger than the remainder. It
had, however, a round tower, but unlike that at Mud Spring village, this
structure is not united to one of the houses. The addition of towers to
pueblos, as pointed out by Doctor Prudden [3] several years ago,
marks the highest development of pueblo architecture as shown
not only in open-air villages but also in some of the
large cliff pueblos, like Cliff Palace. Isolated towers are as a rule
earlier in construction.
3Prudden excavated a unit-type ruin from one of the
Mitchell spring mounds. (Amer. Anthrop., vol. xvi, no. 1, 1914.)
The unit-type mound uncovered by Doctor Prudden is
one of the most instructive examples of this type in Montezuma Canyon,
but the author in subsequent pages will call attention to the existence
of the same type in Square Tower Canyon. All of these pueblos probably
have kivas of the pure type, practically the same in structure as Far
View House on the Mesa Verde National Park.
MUD SPRING (BURKHARDT) RUIN
The collection of mounds (pl. 3, b), sometimes called
Burkhardt Ruin, situated at Mud Spring, belongs to the McElmo series.
This ruin, in which is the "triple-walled tower" of Holmes, for uniformity with
Mitchell Spring Ruin and Aztec Spring Ruin, is named after a neighboring
spring. Like these, it is a cluster of mounds forming a village which
covers a considerable area. The arroyo on which it is situated opens
into the McElmo, and is about 7 miles southwest from Cortez, at a point
where the road enters the McElmo Canyon.
The extension of the area covered by the Mud Spring
mounds is east-west, the largest mounds being those on the east. These
latter are separated from the remainder, or those on the west, by a
shallow, narrow gulch. There are two towers united to the western
section overlooking the spring, the following description of one of
which, with a sketch of the ground plan, is given by
Holmes. [1]
1Op. cit., pp. 398-399.
"The circular structures or towers have been built,
in the usual manner, of roughly hewn stone, and rank among the very best
specimens of this ancient architecture. The great tower is especially
noticeable . . . In dimensions it is almost identical with the great
tower of the Rio Mancos. The walls are traceable nearly all the way
round, and the space between the two outer ones, which is about 5 feet
in width, contains 14 apartments or cells. The walls about one of these
cells are still standing to the height of 12 feet; but the interior can
not be examined on account of the rubbish which fills it to the top. No
openings are noticeable in the circular walls, but doorways seem to have
been made to communicate between the apartments; one is preserved at
d . . . This tower stands back about 100 feet from the edge of
the mesa near the border of the village. The smaller tower, b, stands
forward on a point that overlooks the shallow gulch; it is 15 feet in
diameter; the walls are 3-1/2 feet thick and 5 feet high on the outside.
Beneath this ruin, in a little side gulch, are the remains of a wall 12
feet high and 20 inches thick . . . The apartments number nearly a
hundred, and seem, generally, to have been rectangular. They are not,
however, of uniform size, and certainly not arranged in regular
order."
Morgan [1] gives the following description of
the same ruin which seems to the author to be the Mud Creek village:
1Op. cit., p. 190.
"Four miles westerly [from Mitchell ranch], near the
ranch of Mr. Shirt, are the ruins of another large stone pueblo,
together with an Indian cemetery, where each grave is marked by a border
of flat stones set level with the ground in the form of a parallelogram
8 feet by 4 feet. Near the cluster of nine pueblos shown in the figure
are found strewn on the ground numerous fragments of pottery of high
grade in the ornamentation, and small arrowheads of flint, quartz, and
chalcedony delicately formed, and small knife blades with convex and
serrated edges in considerable numbers.
"This is an immense ruin with small portions of the
walls still standing, particularly of the round tower of stone of three
concentric walls, incorporated in the structure, and a few chambers in
the north end of the main building. The round tower is still standing
nearly to the height of the first story. In its present condition it was
impossible to make a ground plan showing the several chambers, or to
determine with certainty which side was the front of the structure,
assuming that it was constructed in the terraced form . . . The Round
Tower is the most singular feature in this structure. While it resembles
the ordinary estufa, common to all these structures, it differs
from them in having three concentric walls. No doorways are visible in
the portion still standing, consequently it must have been entered
through the roof, in which respect it agrees with the ordinary
estufa. The inner chamber is about 20 feet in diameter, and the
spaces between the encircling walls are about 2 feet each; the walls are
about 2 feet in thickness, and were laid up mainly with stones about 4
inches square, and, for the most part, in courses. There is a similar
round tower, having but two concentric walls, at the head of the McElmo
Canyon, and near the ranch of Mr. Mitchell [Mitchell Ruin]."
As the name Mud Spring is locally known to the
natives, especially to employees of livery stables and garages, the ruin
is here called Mud Spring. The tower and the other circular buildings
are united to other rooms as in similar groups of mounds. The presence
of surface depressions, thought to indicate circular kivas, [2] shows that
the Mud Spring mounds are remains of a village of the same type as the
Mummy Lake group, but with towers united to the largest mounds.
2Although the kivas of Mud Spring Ruin have not been
excavated there is little doubt from surface indications that they
belong to the unit type.
The time the author could give to his visit to the
Mud Spring Ruin (pl. 3, b) was too limited to survey it, but he noticed
in addition to the two circular buildings already recorded, a large
mound situated on the west side of the gulch, and numerous small mounds
on the east side of the same, each apparently with a central
depression like a kiva. All these mounds have been more or less
mutilated by indiscriminate digging, but many mounds, still untouched,
remain to be excavated before we can form an adequate conception of the
group. The "triple-walled tower" is now in such a condition that the
author could not determine whether it was formerly circular or D-shaped;
the "small tower" is in even worse condition and its previous form could
not be made out. The Mud Spring mounds cover a much larger area than
descriptions or ground plans thus far published would indicate.
Originally Mud Spring Ruin consisted of a cluster of
pueblos of various sizes, each probably with a circular kiva and
rectangular rooms, combined with one or more towers at present too much
dilapidated to determine architectural details without excavations. Like
the other clusters of pueblos in the McElmo and Montezuma Valley, the
cemetery near Mud Spring Ruin has suffered considerably from pothunters,
but there still remain many standing walls that are well preserved.
RUIN WITH SEMICIRCULAR CORE
This ruin is situated on the San Juan about 3 miles
below the sandy bed of the mouth of the Montezuma, on a bluff 50 feet
above the river. The ground plan by Jackson [1] indicates a
building shaped like a trapezoid, 158 feet on the northeast side, 120 on
the southeast, and 32 on the northwest side. The southwest side is
broken midway by a reentering area at the rim of the bluff over the
river.
1Tenth Ann. Rept. U. S. Geol. Surv. Terr. (Hayden Survey) for 1876, pl.
xlviii, fig. 2, 1879.
In the center of this trapezoidal structure there is
represented a series of rooms arranged like those of Horseshoe House,
but composed of a half-circular chamber surrounded by seven rooms
between two concentric circular walls. Thus far the homology to
Horseshoe House is close but beyond this series of rooms, following out
the trapezoidal form, at least five other rooms appear on the ground
plan. The position of these recalls the walls arranged around the tower
at Mud Spring village. In other words, the ruin resembles Horseshoe
House, but has in addition rectangular rooms added on three sides,
forming an angular building. So far as the author's information goes, no
other ruin of exactly this type, which recalls Sun Temple, has been
described by other observers.
WOLLEY RANCH RUIN
Wolley Ranch Ruin, situated 10 miles south of
Dolores, is one of the largest mounds near Cortez. There are evidences
of the former existence of a cluster of mounds at this place, only one
of which now remains. This is covered with bushes, rendering it
difficult to trace the bounding walls.
BLANCHARD RUIN
Several years ago private parties constructed at
Manitou, near Colorado Springs, a cliff-dwelling on the combined plan of
Spruce-tree House and Cliff Palace, The rocks used for that purpose
were transported from a large mound on the Blanchard ranch near
Lebanon, in the Montezuma Valley, at the head of Hartman's draw, about 6
miles south of Dolores. Two mounds (pl. 2, a, b), about
three-quarters of a mile apart, are all that now remain of a considerable
village; the other smaller mounds, reported by pioneer settlers,
have long since been leveled by cultivation. As both of these mounds
have been extensively dug into to obtain stones, the walls that remain
standing show much mutilation. The present condition of the largest
Blanchard mound, as seen from its southwest angle, is shown in plate 2,
b. About half of the mound, now covered with a growth of bushes,
still remains entire, exposing walls of fine masonry, on its south side.
The rooms in the buried buildings are hard to make out on account of
this covering of vegetation and accumulated debris; but the central
depressions, supposed to be kivas, almost always present in the middle
of mounds in this district, show that the structure of Blanchard Ruin
follows the pure type.
RUINS AT AZTEC SPRING
The mounds at Aztec Spring (pl. 1, b),
situated on the eastern flank of Ute Mountain, at a site looking
across the valley to the west end of Mesa Verde, were described forty
years ago by W. W. Jackson [1] and Prof. W. H. Holmes. [2] The descriptions
given by both these pioneers are quoted at length for the reason that
subsequent authors have added little from direct observation since that
time, notwithstanding they have been constantly referred to and the
illustrations reproduced.
1 Rept. U. S. Geol. Survey Terr. (Hayden
Survey) for 1874, Washington, 1876.
2Op. cit.
As a result of a short visit, the author is able to
add the few following notes on the Aztec Spring mounds. The ruin is a
village consisting of a cluster of unit pueblos of the pure type in
various stages of consolidation. No excavations were made, but the
surface indications point to the conclusion that the different mounds
indicate that these pueblos have different shapes and sizes.
The author's observations differ in several
unimportant particulars from those of previous writers, and while it is
not his intention to describe in detail the Aztec Spring village he will
call attention to certain features it shares with other villages in the
Montezuma Valley.
The best, almost the only accounts of this village
are the following taken from the descriptions by Jackson and Holmes
published in 1877. Mr. Jackson gives the following description: [1]
1Op. cit., pp. 377-378.
"Immediately adjoining the spring, on the right, as
we face it from below, is the ruin of a great massive structure [Upper
House?] of some kind, about 100 feet square in exterior dimensions; a
portion only of the wall upon the northern face remaining in its
original position. The debris of the ruin now forms a great
mound of crumbling rock, from 12 to 20 feet in height, overgrown, with
artemisia, but showing clearly, however, its rectangular structure,
adjusted approximately to the four points of the compass. Inside this
square is a circle, about 60 feet in diameter, deeply depressed in the
center. The space between the square and the circle appeared, upon a
hasty examination, to have been filled in solidly with a sort of rubble
masonry. Cross-walls were noticed in two places; but whether they were
to strengthen the walls or divided apartments could only be conjectured.
That portion of the outer wall remaining standing is some 40 feet in
length and 15 in height. The stones Were dressed to a uniform size and
finish. Upon the same level as this ruin, and extending back some
distance, were grouped line after line of foundations and mounds, the
great mass of which is of stone but not one remaining upon another . . .
Below the above group, some 200 yards distant, and communicating by
indistinct lines of debris, is another great wall, inclosing a
space of about 200 feet square [Lower House?] . . . This better
preserved portion is some 50 feet in length, 7 or 8 feet in height, and
20 feet thick, the two exterior surfaces of well-dressed and evenly
laid courses, and the center packed in solidly with rubble-masonry,
looking entirely different from those rooms which had been filled with
debris, though it is difficult to assign any reason for its being
so massively constructed . . . The town built about this spring is
nearly a square mile in extent, the larger and more enduring buildings
in the center, while all about are scattered and grouped the remnants of
smaller structures, comprising the suburbs."
The description by Professor Holmes [2] is more
detailed and accompanied by a ground plan, and is quoted below:
2Op. cit., p. 400.
"The site of the spring I found, but without the
least appearance of water. The depression formerly occupied by it is
near the center of a large mass of ruins, similar to the group [Mud
Spring village] last described, but having a rectangular instead of a
circular building as the chief and central structure. This I have called
the upper house in the plate, and a large walled enclosure a
little lower on the slope I have for the sake of distinction called the
lower house.
"These ruins form the most imposing pile of masonry
yet [1875] found in Colorado. The whole group covers an area about
480,000 square feet, and has an average depth of from 3 to 4 feet. This
would give in the vicinity of 1,500,000 solid feet of stonework. The
stone used is chiefly of the fossiliferous limestone that outcrop along
the base of the Mesa Verde a mile or more away, and its transportation
to this place has doubtless been a great work for a people so totally
without facilities.
"The upper house is rectangular, measuring 80 feet by
100 feet, and is built with the cardinal points to within a few degrees.
The pile is from 12 to 15 feet in height, and its massiveness suggests
an original height at least twice as great. The plan is somewhat
difficult to make out on account of the very great quantity of
debris.
"The walls seem to have been double, with a space 7
feet between; a number of cross walls at regular intervals indicate
that this space has been divided into apartments, as seen in the
plan.
"The walls are 26 inches thick, and are built of
roughly dressed stones, which were probably laid in mortar, as in other
cases.
"The enclosed space, which is somewhat depressed, has
two lines of debris, probably the remains of partition-walls, separating
it into three apartments, a, b, c [note]. Enclosing this great
house is a network of fallen walls, so completely reduced that none of
the stones seem to remain in place; and I am at a loss to determine
whether they mark the site of a cluster of irregular apartments, having
low, loosely built walls, or whether they are the remains of some
imposing adobe structure built after the manner of the ruined pueblos of
the Rio Chaco.
"Two well-defined circular enclosures or estufas
[kivas] are situated in the midst of the southern wing of the ruin.
The upper one, A, is on the opposite side of the spring from the
great house, is 60 feet in diameter, and is surrounded by a low stone
wall. West of the house is a small open court, which seems to have had a
gateway opening out to the west, through the surrounding walls.
"The lower house is 200 feet in length by 180 in
width, and its walls vary 15 degrees from the cardinal points. The
northern wall, a, is double and contains a row of eight
apartments about 7 feet in width by 24 in length. The walls of the other
sides are low, and seem to have served simply to enclose the great
court, near the center of which is a large walled depression (estufa
B)."
The number of buildings that composed, the Aztec
Spring village (fig. 1) when it was inhabited can not be exactly
estimated, but as indicated by the largest mound , the most important
block of rooms exceeds in size any at Mitchell Spring Ruin. While this
village also covered more ground than that at Mud Spring, it shows no
evidence of added towers, a prominent feature of the largest mound of
the latter. Two sections (fig. 1, A, B) may be
distinguished in the arrangement of mounds in the village; one may be
known as the western and the other as the eastern division.

FIG. 1.Ground plan of Aztec Spring Ruin.
The highest and most conspicuous mound of the western
section (A) is referred to by Professor Holmes as the "Upper
House." Surface characteristics now indicate that this is the remains of
a compact rectangular building, with circular kivas and domiciliary
rooms of different shapes, the arrangement of which can not be determined
without extensive excavations. The plan of
this pueblo published by Holmes [1] shows two large and one
small depression, indicating peripheral rectangular chambers surrounded
by walls of rectangular rooms.
1Op. cit., pl. xl.
The author interprets the depressions, K, as
kivas, but supposes that they were not rectangular as figured by Holmes,
but circular, surrounded on all four sides by square secular chambers,
the "Upper House" being formed by the consolidation of several units of
the pure pueblo type. Although Aztec Spring Ruin is now much
mutilated and its walls difficult to trace, the surface
indications, aided by comparative studies of the rooms, show that
Holmes' "a," "b," and "c," now shown by depressions, are circular,
subterranean kivas. They are the same kind of chambers as the circular
depressions in the mounds on the south side of the spring. The height of
the mound called "Upper House" indicates that the building had more than
one story on the west and north sides, and that a series of rooms one
story high with accompanying circular depressions existed on the east
side.
The "Upper House" is only one of several pueblos
composing the western cluster of the Aztec Spring village. Its proximity
to the source of water may in part account for its predominant size, but
there are evidences of several other mounds (EH) in its
neighborhood, also remains of pueblos. Those on the north (C) and west
sides (EH) are small and separated from it by intervals
sometimes called courts. The most extensive accumulation of rooms next
the "Upper House" is situated across the draw in which the spring lies,
south of the "Upper House" cluster already considered. The aggregation
of houses near the "Upper House "is mainly composed of low rectangular
buildings among which are recognized scattered circular depressions
indicating kivas. The largest of these buildings is indicated by the
mound on the south rim of the draw, where we can make out remains of a
number of circular depressions or kivas (K), as if several unit
forms fused together; on the north and west sides of the spring there
are small, low mounds, unconnected, also suggesting several similar unit
forms. The most densely populated part of the village at Aztec Spring,
as indicated by the size of the mounds clustered on the rim around the
head of the draw, is above the spring, on the northwest and south
sides.
There remains to be mentioned the eastern annex
(B) of the Aztec Spring village, the most striking remains of
which is a rectangular inclosure called "Lower House," situated east of
the spring and lower down the draw, or at a lower level than the section
already considered. The type of this structure, which undoubtedly
belonged to the same village, is different from that already described.
It resembles a reservoir rather than a kiva, inclosed by a low
rectangular wall, with rows of rooms on the north side. The court of the
"Lower House" measures 218 feet. The wall on the east, south, and west
sides is only a few feet high and is narrow; that on the north is
broader and higher, evidently the remains of rooms, overlooking the
inclosed area.
Perhaps the most enigmatical structures in the
vicinity of Aztec Spring village are situated on a low mesa south of the
mounds, a few hundred feet away. These are circular depressions without
accompanying mounds, one of which was excavated a few years ago to
the depth of 12 feet; on the south there was discovered a
well-made wall of a circular opening, now visible, by which there was a
communication through a horizontal tunnel with the open air. The author
was informed that this tunnel is artificial and that one of the workmen
crawled through it to its opening in the side of a bank many yards
distant.
No attempt was made to get the exact dimensions of
the component houses at Aztec Spring, as the walls are now concealed in
the mounds, and measurements can only be approximations if obtained from
surface indications without excavation. The sketch plan here introduced
(fig. 1) is schematic, but although not claimed as accurate, may serve
to convey a better idea of the relation of the two great structures and
their annexed buildings than any previously advanced.
The author saw no ruined prehistoric village in the
Montezuma Valley that so stirred his enthusiasm to properly excavate and
repair as that at Aztec Spring, [1] notwithstanding it has been
considerably dug over for commercial purposes.
1Mr. van Kleeck, of Denver, has offered this ruin to the Public Parks
Service for permanent preservation. It is proposed to rename it the
Yucca House National Monument.
GREAT OPEN-AIR RUINS SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST OF DOVE CREEK POST OFFICE
In the region south and southwest of Dove Creek there
are several large pueblo ruins, indicated by mounds formed of trimmed
stone, eolean sand, and clay from plastering, which have certain
characters in common. Each mound is a large heap of stones (pl. 3, a)
near which is a depression or reservoir, with smaller heaps which in
different ruins show the small buildings of the unit type. These
clusters or villages are somewhat modified in form by the configuration
of the mesa surface. The larger have rectangular forms regularly
disposed in blocks with passageways between them or are without any
definite arrangement.
SQUAW POINT RUIN
This large ruin, which has been described by Doctor
Prudden as Squaw Point Ruin and, as Pierson Lake Ruin, was visited by
the author, who has little to add to this description. One of the small
heaps of stone or mounds has been excavated and its structure found to
conform with the definition of the unit type. The subterranean
communication between one of the rectangular rooms and the kiva could be
well seen at the time of the author's visit and recalls the feature
pointed out by him in some of the kivas of Spruce-tree House. The large
reservoir and the great ruin are noteworthy features of the Squaw Point
settlement.
It seems to the author that the large block of
buildings is simply a congeries of unit types the structure of one of
which is indicated by the small buildings excavated by Doctor Prudden, and
that structurally there is the same condition in it as in the pueblo
ruins of Montezuma Valley, a conclusion to which the several artifacts
mentioned and figured by Doctor Prudden also point.
The same holds true of Bug Point Ruin, a few miles
away, also excavated and described by Doctor Prudden. Here also
excavation of a small mound shows the unit type, and while no one has
yet opened the larger mound or pueblo, superficial evidences indicate
that it also is a complex of many unit types joined together. Until
more facts are available the relative age of the
small unit types as compared to the large pueblo can not be definitely
stated, but there is little reason to doubt that they are
contemporaneous, and nothing to support the belief that they do not
indicate the same culture.
ACMEN RUIN
Following the Old Bluff Road and leaving it about 5
miles west of Acmen post office, one comes to a low canyon beyond Pigge
ranch. The heaps of stone or large mounds cover an area of about 10
acres, the largest being about 15 feet high. East of this is a circular
depression surrounded by stones, indicating either a reservoir or a
ruined building.
The top of the highest mound (pl. 3, a)no walls
stand above the surfaceis depressed like mounds of the Mummy Lake
group on.the Mesa Verde. This depression probably indicates a circular
kiva embedded in square walls, the masonry of which so far as can be
judged superficially is not very fine. There are many smaller mounds in
the vicinity and evidences of cemeteries on the south, east, and west
sides, where there are evidences of desultory digging; fragments of
pottery are numerous.
These mounds indicate a considerable village which
would well repay excavation, as shown by the numerous specimens of
corrugated, black and white, and red pottery in the Pigge collection,
made in a small mound near the Pigge ranch.
The specimens in this collection present few features
different from those indicated by the fragments of pottery picked up on
the larger mounds a mile west of the site where they were excavated.
They are the same as shards from the mounds in the McElmo region.
OAK SPRING HOUSE
About 15 miles southwest of Dove Creek on Monument
Canyon there is a good spring called Oak Spring, near which are several
piles of stones indicating former buildings, the largest of which, about
a quarter of a mile away, has a central depression with surrounding
wails now covered with rock or buried in soil or blown sand. Very large
pinon trees grow on top of the highest walls of this ruin, the
general features of which recall those at Bug Spring,
though their size is considerably less. In the surface of rock above the
spring there are numerous potholes of small size. One of these, 4 feet
deep and about 18 feet in diameter, is almost perfectly circular and has
some signs of having been deepened artificially. It holds water much of
the time and was undoubtedly a source of water supply to the aborigines,
as it now is to stock in that neighborhood.
RUIN IN RUIN CANYON
One of the large rim-rock ruins may be seen on the
left bank of Ruin Canyon in full view from the Old Bluff Road. The ruin
is an immense pile of stones perched on the very edge of the rim, with
no walls standing above the surface. The most striking feature of this
ruin is the cliff-house below, the walls and entrance into which are
visible from the road (pl. 9, b). It is readily accessible and
one of the largest in the country. On either side of the Old Bluff Road
from Ruin Canyon to the "Aztec Reservoir" small piles of stone mark the
sites of many former buildings of the one-house type which can readily
be seen, especially in the sagebrush clearings as the road descends to
the Picket corral, the reservoirs, and the McElmo Canyon.
CANNONBALL RUIN
One of the most instructive ruins of the McElmo
Canyon region is situated at the head of Cannonball Canyon, a short
distance across the mesa north of the McElmo, at a point nearly opposite
the store. This ruin is made up of two separate pueblos facing each
other, one of which is known as the northern, the other as the southern
pueblo (pl. 22, b). Both show castellated chambers and towers,
one of which is situated at the bottom of the canyon. The southern
pueblo was excavated a few years ago by Mr. S. G. Morley, who published
an excellent plan and a good description of it, and made several
suggestions regarding additions of new rooms to the kivas which are
valuable. Its walls were not protected and are rapidly
deteriorating.
This pueblo, as pointed out by Mr. Morley, [1]
has 29 secular rooms arranged with little regularity, and 7
circular kivas, belonging to the vaulted-roofed variety. It is a fine
example of a composite pueblo of the pure type, m which there are
several large kivas. Morley has pointed out a possible sequence in the
addition of the different kivas to a preexisting tower and offers an
explanation of the chronological steps by which he thinks the
aggregation of rooms was brought about. Occasionally we find inserted in
the walls of these houses large artificially worked or uncut flat
stones, such as the author has mentioned as existing in the walls of the
northwest corner of the court of Far View House. This Cyclopean form of
masonry is primitive and may
be looked upon as a survival of a ruder and more
archaic condition best shown in the Montezuma Mesa ruins farther west, a
good example of which was described by Jackson. [2]
1Amer. Anthrop., n. s. vol. x, no. 4, pp. 596-610, 1908.
2 Op. cit., pp. 428-429.
CIRCULAR RUINS WITH PERIPHERAL COMPARTMENTS
It has long been recognized that circular ruins in
the Southwest differ from rectangular ruins, not only in shape but also
in structural features, as relative position and character of kivas.
The relation of the ceremonial chambers to the houses, no less than the
external forms of the two, at first sight appear to separate them from
the pure type. [3] They are more numerous and probably more
ancient, as their relative abundance implies.
3It is premature to declare that the kivas in
circular ruins do not belong to the vaulted-roofed type simply from want
of observation to that effect. In Penasco Blanco and other ruins of the
Chaco Canyon group, as shown in ground plans, they appear to be embedded
in secular rooms. Additional studies of
the architectural features of circular pueblos are
desirable.
These circular ruins, in which group is included
certain modifications where the curve of one side is replaced
(generally on the south) by a straight wall or chord, have several
concentric walls; again, they take the form of simple towers with one
row of encircling compartments, or they may have a double wall with
inclosed compartments.
Many representations of semicircular ruins were found
in the region here considered, some of which are of considerable size.
The simplest form is well illustrated by the D-shaped building,
Horseshoe House, in Hackberry Canyon, a ruin which will be considered
later in this article. Other examples occur in the Yellow Jacket, and
there are several, as Butte Ruin, Emerson, and Escalante Ruins, in the
neighborhood of Dolores.
In contrast to the village type consisting of a
number of pueblos clustered together, but separated from each other,
where the growth takes place mainly through the union of components, the
circular ruin in enlarging its size apparently did so by the addition of
new compartments peripherally or like additional rings in exogenous
trees. Judging from their frequency, the center of distribution of the
circular type lies somewhere in the San Juan culture area. This type
does not occur in the Gila Valley or its tributaries, where we have an
architectural zone denoting that a people somewhat different in culture
from the Pueblos exists, but occurs throughout the "Central Zone," so
called, extending across New Mexico from Colorado as far south as Zuñi.
Many additional observations remain to be made before we can adequately
define the group known as the circular type and the extent of the area
over which it is distributed.
The following examples of this type have been studied
by the author:
WOOD CANYON RUINS
Reports were brought to the author of large ruins on
the rim of Wood Canyon, about 4 miles south of Yellow Jacket post
office, in October, 1918, when he had almost finished the season's work.
Two ruins of size were examined, one of which, situated in the open
sagebrush clearing, belongs to the village type composed of large and small
rectangular mounds. The other is composed of small circular or
semicircular buildings with a surrounding wall. The form of this latter
(fig. 2) would seem to place it in a subgroup or village
type.

FIG. 2Ground plan of Wood Canyon Ruin.
Approach to the inclosed circular mounds was debarred
by a high bluff of a canyon on one side and by a low defensive curved
wall (E), some of the stones of which are large, almost
megaliths, on the side of the mesa. From fragmentary sections of the
buried walls of one of these circular mounds (A, B), which
appear on the surface, it would seem that the buildings were like towers
(C, D). This is one of the few known examples of circular
buildings in an area protected by a curved wall. In the cliffs below
Wood Canyon Ruin is a cliff-dwelling (G H, J) remarkable mainly
in its site.
BUTTE RUIN
The so-called Butte Ruin, situated in Lost Canyon, 5
miles east of Dolores, belongs to the circular type. It crowns a low
elevation, steep on the west side, sloping more gradually on the east,
and surrounded by cultivated fields. The view from its top
looking toward Ute Mountain and the Mesa Verde plateau is particularly
extensive. The butte is forested by a few spruces growing at the base
and extending up the sides, which are replaced at the summit by a thick
growth of sage and other bushes which cover the mound, rendering it
difficult to make out the ground plan of the ruin on its top.
From what appears on the surface it would seem that
this ruin was a circular or semicircular building about 60 feet in
diameter, the walls rising about 10 feet high. Like other circular
mounds it shows a well-marked depression in the middle, from which
radiate walls or indications of walled compartments. Like the majority
of the buildings of the circular form, the walls on one side have
fallen, suggesting that a low straight wall, possibly with rectangular
rooms, was annexed to this side.
In the neighborhood of Butte Ruin there is another
hill crowned with a pile of stones, probably a round building of smaller
size and with more dilapidated walls. Old cedar beams project in places
out of the mounds.
The cliff-houses below the largest of these mounds
show well-made walls with a few rafters and beams. There are
pictographs on the cliff a short distance away.
EMERSON RUIN
This ruin crowns a low hill about 3 miles south of
Dolores (fig. 3). The form of the mound is semicircular with a
depression in the middle around which can be traced radiating partitions
suggesting compartments. Its outer wall on the south side, as in so many
other examples of this type, has fallen, and the indications are that
here the wall was straight, or like that on the south side of Horse shoe
Ruin.
The author's attention was first called to this ruin
by Mr. Gordon Parker, supervisor of the Montezuma Forest Reserve, it
having been discovered by Mr. J. W. Emerson, one of his rangers. The
circular or semicircular form (fig. 4) of the mound indicates at once
that it does not belong to the same type as Far View House; the central
depression is surrounded by a series of compartments separated by
radiating walls like the circular ruins in the pueblo region to the
south. Mr. Emerson's report, which follows, points out the main features
of this remarkable ruin. [1]
1The letter referring to the circular ruin near
Dolores was prepared by Mr. Emerson, the discoverer of this ruin, and
was transmitted to the Smithsonian Institution as part of a phase of
cooperative work with the Forest Service, by Mr. Gordon Parker,
superintendent of the Montezuma Forest Reserve.
DOLORES, COLORADO, July 7, 1917.
In August, 1916, I visited Mesa Verde National Park. While there
Doctor Fewkes inquired in regard to ruins in the vicinity of the Big
Bend of the Dolores River. He informed me that the log of two old
Spanish explorers of 1775 described a ruin near the bend of the Dolores
River as of great value.
Later, during October, 1916, I visited a number of ruins in this
vicinity, including the one which (for the want of a better name) I have
mapped and named Sun Dial Palace. Later, last fall, I again visited
these ruins with Mr. R. W. Williamson, of Dolores, Colorado.

FIG. 3.Metes and bounds of Emerson Ruin. (After Emerson.)
On July 5, 1917, I again visited these ruins, which I
have designated as Reservoir Group and Sun Dial Palace. [1] For
location and status of land on which they lie see map of sec. 17, T. 37
N., R. 15 W., N. M. P. M. [fig. 3].
While examining Sun Dial Palace I noted the "D-shaped
construction, also that the south wall of the building ran due east and
west." Also please note the regularity of wall bearings from the
approximate center of the elliptical center chamber. I also noted that a
shadow cast by the sun apparently coincides with some of these walls at
different hours during the day. This last gave suggestion to the
name.
Also please note that the first tier of rooms around
the middle chamber does not show a complete set of bearings but seems to
suggest that these regular bearings were obtained from observation and
study of a master builder. The result of his study was built as the next
circular room tier was added. The two missing rooms on the western side
of the building seem to suggest that this building was never completed,
and also bear out my theory of an outward building of room tiers from
the middle chamber.
On the ground this building is fully completed on the
south side and forms a due east and west line. An error in mapping the
elliptical middle chamber has given the south side an incomplete
appearance.
I believe that the excavation and study of this ruin
will recall something of value, as Father Escalante wrote in his log in
1775.
Respectfully submitted.
(Signed) J. WARD EMERSON,
Forest Ranger.
1Also see detailed map of construction of Sun Dial
Palace [fig. 4].

FIG. 4.schematic ground plan of Emerson Ruin.
(After Emerson.)
A personal examination of the remains of this
building leads the author to the conclusion that while it belongs to the
circular group, with a ground plan resembling Horseshoe House, and while
the central part had a wall completely circular, the outer concentric
curved walls did not complete their course on the south side, but ended
in straight walls comparable with the partitions separating
compartments. The author identifies another ruin as that mentioned by
the Catholic fathers in 1775.
ESCALANTE RUIN
The name Escalante Ruin, given to the first ruin
recorded by a white man in Colorado, is situated about 3 miles from
Dolores on top of a low hill to the right of the Monticello Road, just
beyond where it diverges from the road to Cortez. The outline of the
pile of stones suggests a D-shaped or semicircular house with a central
depression surrounded by rooms separated by radiating partitions. The
wall on the south or east sides was probably straight, rendering the
form not greatly unlike the other ruins on hilltops in the neighborhood
of Dolores.
This is supposed to be the ruin to which reference is
made in the following quotation from an article in
Science: [1]
1Fewkes, J. W., The First Pueblo Ruin in Colorado
Mentioned in Spanish Documents. Science, vol. XLVI, Sept. 14, 1917.
"There is in the Congressional Library, among the
documents collected by Peter Force, a manuscript diary of early
exploration in New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah, dated 1776, written by
two Catholic priests, Father Silvester Velez Escalante and Father
Francisco Atanacio Dominguez. This diary is valuable to students of
archeology, as it contains the first reference to a prehistoric ruin in
the confines of the present State of Colorado, although the mention is
too brief for positive identification of the ruin. [2] While the context
indicates its approximate site, there are at this place at least two
large ruins, either of which might be that referred to. I have no doubt
which one of these two rums was indicated by these early explorers, but
my interest in this ruin is both archeological and historical. Our
knowledge of the structure of these ruins is at the present day almost
as imperfect as it was a century and a half ago.
2Diario y Dereotero de las nuevas descubrimientos de
tierras a los r'bos N. N. OE. OE. del Nuevo Mexico por los R. R. P. P.
Fr. Silvester Velez Escalante, Fr. Francisco Atanacio Domingues, 1776.
(Vide Sen. Ex. Doc. 33d congress, No. 78, pt. 3, pp.
119-117.)
"The route followed by the writers of the diary was
possibly an Indian pathway, and is now called the Old Spanish Trail.
After entering Colorado it ran from near the present site of Mancos to
the Dolores. On the fourteenth day from Santa Fe, we find the following
entry: 'En la vanda austral del Vio [Rio] sobre un alto, huvo anti quam
(te) una Poblacion pequena, do la misma forma qe las do los Indios el
Nuevo Mexico, segun manifieran las Ruinas qe de invento registramos.
"By tracing the trip day by day, up to that time, it
appears that the ruin referred to by these early fathers was situated
somewhere near the bend of the Dolores River, or not far from the
present town Dolores, Colo. The above quotation indicates that the ruin
was a small settlement, and situated on a hill, on the south side of the
river or trail, but it did not differ greatly from the ruined
settlements of the Indians of New Mexico with which the writers were
familiar, and had already described."
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