Living History Guidelines

Living History Clothing & Equipment Guideline for
Fort Necessity National Battlefield


Intent: This document provides park staff, interns and volunteers with proper guidance for participation in the park’s 18^th century living history programming. The guide covers the park’s principal time period of 1753 to 1760, the French & Indian War in North America. Unless for special, one time, programming, costumes from outside this time frame will not be used for day-to-day programs.

Accuracy: The burden of authenticity, if questioned on detailed appearance and accoutrements, belongs to the costumed individual. The individual will be able to explain not only what the item or clothing type is but why they have it. Cultural differences abounded on the 1750’s frontier and the interpretation should reflect this. Lack of research or knowledge on the subject does a disservice to the history you are portraying and can inadvertently reinforce stereotypes of inaccurate history to the visitor.

Anachronisms: Modern items will be kept out of sight of visitors and to a minimum during normal program hours. Wristwatches, modern jewelry and eyeglasses are examples of items that will not be worn with period clothing. Electronic equipment (cell phones, etc.) may be carried for emergency use only. Entertainment electronic devices (I-pods, portable games etc.) are prohibited. Camp equipment should be kept to a minimum with modern items covered and/or kept in tents or out of sight. Exceptions – mentioned but not limited to the following: safety equipment for historic weapons demonstrations (i.e. earplugs, welder’s gloves, etc.), park radio, first aid kit and artillery misfire kit.

Any questions or concerns relating to these guidelines should be directed to the Chief of Interpretation, the Volunteer Coordinator, or the Historic Weapons Supervisor.


Part I – Attire & Accoutrements for the Gentleman

Note – Within the scope of the park’s theme the following portrayals are correct in interpreting the story: soldiers, officers, traders, civilian camp followers, artificers, Native American warriors, sachems, Native American council participants. Portrayals of ‘buck skinners,’ long/market hunters, ‘Plains’ Indians or generic ‘frontier’ impersonation does not fit into the park’s theme and is therefore unacceptable for living history programming at the site. Programs will be character driven, when possible, in the third person.

Guidelines for individuals representing British, French or colonial troops:

Small Clothes

1. Stockings – Over the knee length hose made of natural fiber (wool preferred) dyed in traditional solid colors or left natural. Woven tape or leather garter is used to hold socks up.
2. Breeches – Knee breeches were the common style with a French fly front; drop front to a lesser extent. Material used was wool and linen (cotton was rarely used as it was expensive in this time). Leather breeches are appropriate and were common amongst the working classes. Buttons are metal (i.e. pewter, silver, and brass), wood, horn or bone. Full length trousers may be used but were common among farmers, laborers and sailors.
3. Shirt – Long sleeve with a long body extending to knees. Collar is short with a single button and front slit down to mid-breast. Cuffs are short with single button or holes for cuff-links. Cuffs and front slit may have ruffles. Material commonly used is linen. Shirts were often left in the natural color. Large check patterns are acceptable as is block prints.
4. Neck stock – Natural fiber (linen, silk or cotton) or leather with proper tie, clasp or buckle.

Footwear

1. Hard leather shoes – Black or brown leather shoes with rough or smooth sides. Straight-last is correct style worn with a buckle or ties.
2. Boots and high-lows – Both styles are correct but should be kept to a minimum. Military issued standard shoes to infantry. Officers typically wore boots for riding horses. Boot height was to just below the knee. High-lows (a three-quarter height shoe) were common among the working/civilian class.
3. Moccasins – May be worn for those portraying French. Appropriate center-seam, all leather, designs either plain or with modest decorations.

Leggings

1. Military Style – Made of heavy natural or dyed linen or canvas with button fastening on outer portion of leg. Gaiters extended to above the knee (French) to mid-thigh (British) with upper foot gussets and leather strap fastener running under the shoe. Buttons were metal, horn, bone or wood. A leather garter belt is worn just below the knee to hold leggings in place.
2. Civilian – Copy of American Indian style, wool tube, with seam on outer edge. A woven or leather garter belt just below the knee holds the leggings in place. Length can vary from just above the knee to mid-thigh. A woolen or leather thong extends from the top edge of leggings to waist belt or sash.

Waistcoat

1. Sleeveless – Waistcoats were cut to extend to mid-thigh, not to the waist. Natural fiber using linen and wool was used. Buttons are made of metal.
   1. South Carolina waistcoat (1754) – red wool with white buttons
   2. Virginians (1754) – red wool
   3. British Regiments serving with Braddock – natural linen
2. Sleeved – Waistcoats extended to mid-thigh. Sleeves do not have a cuff or collar on military issue. Buttons made of metal.
   1. French marines – medium blue wool with brass buttons
   2. Civilian – wool or linen, plain style as worn by working class

Coats

1. Military – Single or double breasted wool coat with cuffs and were noted a collar. Metal buttons of pewter or brass. Coats are lined with wool or linen. Facings are of appropriate wool with specific lacing and color for regiment.
   1. British Regiments or units appropriate for park’s theme
      1. Virginia Regiment, 1754 & 1755
      2. Independent Company of South Carolina, 1754 & 1755
      3. Independent Company of New York, 1755
      4. 44^th Regiment of Foot, 1755
      5. 48^th Regiment of Foot, 1755
      6. Royal Artillery, 1755
      7. Royal Engineers, 1755
      8. 1^st Virginia Horse, 1755
      9. Naval officers and sailors, 1755
   2. French Units
      1. Independent Companies of Marines
      2. Canadian militia (no standard uniform)
2. Civilian – Single or double breasted full length (just above knee) wool or linen coat. Cuffs and collars varied as did type of buttons depending on wealth of individual.
3. Shirts as outer garment – Basic design of 18^th century shirt though often constructed with heavier material and slightly longer body. Shirts are pullover; split front shirts (rifleman style) are not yet in vogue. Natural linen most common material.
4. Overcoat – Watch coats and capotes of appropriate style made of wool. Waxed cotton coats and ponchos are not correct.

Headwear

1. TRICORN – Black or brown natural felt blocked with correct crown (low). Military hats (black felt) have silk or linen cockade with button and lace. Lace is correct metallic thread (silver or gold) or wool/linen dyed to specific regiment’s requirements.
2. Civilian round hat – Plain black or brown natural felt blocked with correct crown (low). Little or no adornment. Brim is short, no more than four to five inches. Straw hats of correct weave (tight) are permitted.
3. Soft hats – Workmen’s caps of linen or wool are acceptable. French tuque or military bonnet made of wool is acceptable.

Equipment

1. Canteens – Made of tin-plate in kidney shape design using a natural fiber rope and wood stopper. Other acceptable materials include leather or wool wrapped hand-blown glass bottle, dried gourds and jack ware.
2. Haversacks & packs – Made of linen or other natural fiber. Should be of appropriate dimensions and design for mid-18^th century. As example, haversacks (a provisions bag) were larger in mid-century than the more commonly seen 1770’s pattern. Other civilian styles of bags are appropriate if they can be documented in use at mid-century.
3. Belts – Waist belts are made of brown or buff leather with a double frog on left side for suspension of sword (or small axe) and bayonet. Buckle is made of brass or iron of appropriate style. Leather sheath for sword, small axe and bayonet is present and is not torn, missing its tip and completely covers the blade.
4. Cartridge box/shot bags – All leather construction, double flap preferred, that completely covers cartridge block when closed. Box should hang comfortably from the shoulder to the right hip. Belly boxes may be used. Powder horns can be carried but with no powder. The cartridge box should contain the following: spare flints, musket tool, flint caps (leather or lead), worm, rag and pick & brush.
5. Firearms – Working reproductions of 18^th century design available up to mid-century. Lock will function properly on half cock and have a hammer stall and flash guard. A correct length ramrod will accompany each piece to spring rammers in the barrel. The stock will be free of cracks or is properly repaired. Appropriate musket patterns include:
   1. For British troops
      1. Land Pattern (King’s Musket) of 1730 & 1742 pattern. Brass furniture more common than iron.
      2. Dutch Muskets with both iron and brass furniture.
      3. Fowlers and other smoothbore patterns (military or civilian) made prior to 1760
      4. Rifles – transition pattern (i.e. Christian’s Spring) or Jaeger
   2. For French troops
      1. Infantry Musket model 1728 (most common)
      2. Lesser models found – 1717 and 1746
      3. Fusil de Grenadier (Marine musket) 1730’s pattern
      4. Fusil de Chasse & Fin – muskets for Indian trade with some use by Canadians
      5. Buccaneer Musket – naval musket used by militia
      6. Captured British muskets – used by militia

Guidelines for individuals representing American Indians:

Clothing

1. Shirts – Natural or dyed linen with or without ruffles. Block prints and checks acceptable. For historic weapons demonstrations a shirt is recommended to avoid burns.
2. Breechclout – Made of wool dyed in available colors; minor edge decoration with silk ribbon or natural fiber acceptable. Breechclout must fit and cover crotch area to avoid embarrassing or immodest exposure to public. Leather breechclouts are not acceptable as they rarely appear in mid-18^th century written descriptions of this type of clothing.
3. Leggings – Made of wool or brain tanned leather with a side seam only. Modest decoration of the flaps is acceptable.
4. Garters, sashes and Leg Ties – Made of wool, leather, eel skin strip or finger woven (using oblique weave). May be decorated with beaded panel or use of quelled bands. Avoid use of inkle loomed items.
5. Footwear
   1. Moccasins – All leather construction with center seam design. Modest decorations are acceptable.
   2. European shoes with buckles or ties.
6. Match coats and Blankets – Decorated or plain wool for match coat (Stroud or Melton). Blankets colors of white, blue or red acceptable (avoid GI issued blankets).
7. Coats – Wool coats of civilian patterns are acceptable as is sleeved and sleeveless waistcoats. Full skirted “French style” capotes and military coats are acceptable. *A note on military coats – the coat must be correct to the time period and be able to provide an explanation for ownership of same (how it was acquired).
8. Headwear – The following items are acceptable:
   1. Scalp locks preferred (prosthetics accepted)
   2. Deer hair roach
   3. Modest “feathered roach” or cluster
   4. Diadem or envelop style headdress
   5. Quelled headband
   6. TRICORN hats
   7. Headscarves

Additional Items

1. Paint – Use document colors only with red the most common followed by black. Ochre paints only, avoid grease/cream makeup or “brush and bottle” paints.
2. Jewelry – Correct patterns and types of trade jewelry made from silver, brass or copper. Items should reflect portrayed Nations’ principal trading partners (i.e. Jesuit rings amongst native groups from New France).
3. Edged Weapons – Knifes, small axes and other edged items will copy original, available, trade goods, no fantasy items. A sheath will cover the entire blade while the item is carried by the sash or neck.
4. Tomahawk (war club) – Copied from known examples of Eastern Woodland design and constructed from a single piece of wood. Avoid carrying examples of tomahawks with metal blade inserts for reasons of safety (no sheath). Must be able to explain design if specific to a Nation or region.
5. Powder horns – Patterned from known styles prior to 1760. Horn may be carried but with no powder.
6. Shot Bags – All leather construction copied from known examples. A flap is preferred to protect musket cartridges. Must be able to explain design/decoration if specific to a Nation or region. Only essential items for maintaining a musket in the field should be carried in the shot bag.
7. Carry Bags – Made of natural fiber, wool, leather or animal fur. Specific style or types of bags (i.e. Otter skin bag for pipe) that carry special significant and/or decoration, the owner must be able to fully explain is use, origin and purpose.
8. Firearms – Will be a functioning reproduction of flintlock long arm available up to the year 1760. Although not always the case various firearms were more numerous depending on a Nation’s location. As example, Odawa people traded with French so generally carried French style firearms; Mohawk traded with Dutch and English so those styles prevailed. The following list, not inclusive, gives acceptable examples:
   1. British Land (King’s) Pattern musket, 1730 and 1742 models
   2. French Infantry muskets, models 1717 and 1728
   3. British & French trade muskets (i.e. Fusil de Chasse)
   4. Rifles – transition style or Jaeger
   5. Other continental Europe muskets (i.e. Dutch, Spanish etc.)
9. Prohibited firearms – In the interest of safety the following firearms may be used for display only but not for firing demonstrations.
   1. Muskets with barrels less than 30 inches, commonly refer to as blanket or canoe guns.
   2. Blunderbusses
   3. Pistols

Part II – Attire & Accoutrements for Distaff

Note – Within the scope of the park’s theme the following portrayals are acceptable in representing women’s lives: camp follower, native councils and life on the home front (meaning both colonial European and Native American village life). Dress for colonial ladies should reflect the lower and middling classes as they best represent the majority. Working class clothing is the primary appearance. Programs will be character driven, when possible, in the third person.

Guidelines for individuals representing colonial Ladies:

Small Clothes

1. Stockings – Made of natural fiber (linen, wool, silk or cotton) coming up over the knee. Generally dyed a solid color and used a garter of linen, wool or cotton tape to hold up stockings.
2. Shift or Chemise – Made of natural fiber (linen, cotton or hemp) with body of shift extending to knees. Sleeve length was to just below elbow with ties. Neck is wide and open with tie but not drawn tight to the neck. The shift was not worn falling off the shoulder. Ruffles rarely worn by working class. 18^th century women did not wear under garments as we know them today. If you choose to wear such modern items, there should be no visible evidence (bra straps, panty lines, etc.).
3. Pockets – May be single or double suspended from linen or cotton tape. Made of natural fiber with linen the most common. Worn under the petticoat, not visible.
4. Stays – The average 18^th woman wore stays as most women today wear bras. Stays provided support, obviously in the front but equally so to the back, much as today’s lumbar support belts. Worn over the shift, with the petticoat either over or under, the stay was laced both front and back and made of heavy natural fiber. Stays are boned with baleen, steel, reed or wood splits. Stays were generally covered while in public, although working women sometimes worked with the stays as an outer garment during home chores.

Outer Garments

1. Petticoat – Worn in layers, at least two, and made of linen, wool or linen/wool blend. Linen tape or hooks & eyes are used to gather at waist with slits cut at waist to access pockets beneath. Vertical strip patterns common among French ladies. Length varied, generally a couple of inches above the ankle to mid-calf; did not cover the ankles.
2. Bed Gown – Unlike the name implies these were not intended for use in bed. This loose fitting gown was worn by common women to do chores.
3. Short Gown – This is a fitted item, shorter and narrower than bed gown, that seems to be more common in the second half of the 18^th century.
4. Jacket – Often copied from men’s work jackets but with feminine styling. Simple styles worn by working class acceptable; should avoid fancy or ‘riding habit’ styles. Wool and linen material most commonly used.
5. Gown – Not just a fancy article of clothing but also an everyday garment worn by all classes. Made of wool or linen for working classes, the gown was a fitted item with specific styles, notably at sleeves and waist, in vogue throughout the eighteenth century.
6. Apron – An essential item made of linen, hemp or wool. Protected petticoat and made chores easier.
7. Handkerchief – Or neckerchief is worn about the shoulders and neck to protect the skin. Made of linen, silk, cotton or wool fabric (35” to 40” square) can be dyed or checked. The ends are tucked in the gown or jacket with pins holding it in place.
8. Cap – Women wore some type of head covering, often in the form of a cap. Linen was the most common material. Styles varied with the plain versions best suiting the working classes. Avoid the ‘mop cap’ as the modern style does not copy the original.
9. Hats – Not an essential item but nice to have if working in the sun. Low crown straw or wool round hats are acceptable. Ribbon should be placed inside the crown and placed behind the head, not under the chin, to keep hat in place (windy days etc.). Brims should not be pulled down on sides to create a ‘tunnel’ look as that style was common by 19^th century.
10. Cloak – Made of coat weight wool, unlined, dyed red, blue or black. Some versions had hoods. Wool or silk tape was used to tie the front by the neck, rarely metal clasps.
11. Shoes – A black leather shoe with buckle or tie in a women’s style is acceptable. Heels can be low or high. Going barefoot was common but not recommended with modern litter found on the grounds. Ethnic styles of footwear (clogs, slippers, moccasins etc.) are acceptable if specific to a character portrayal.

Accessories

1. Make-up – Unless you are portraying a fancy lady going to the governor’s ball, no make-up is best.
2. Jewelry – Keep it to a minimum, if at all, especially if portraying working class. Modern jewelry will not be worn.

Guidelines for individuals representing American Indian women:

Clothing

1. Shirts – Listed as a common trade item with linen the principal material. Although there is reference to women going bare breasted for the sake of our times and sensibilities this adherence to accuracy is not required. Undergarments such as bra straps should not be visible through the shirt. Often left in natural linen, dyed material is acceptable together with check and prints.
2. Petticoat – Resembles a skirt starting at the waist and extending down to knees. Made of wool dyed red or blue as most common. Modest edge decoration with silk ribbon acceptable.
3. Leggings – Made with brain tanned deer skin with side seam. Modest edge decoration of lobe acceptable. A finger woven garter is used to hold leggings in place.
4. Moccasins – All leather construction based on center seam construction or other Eastern Woodland styles. Modest decoration of quill or bead work acceptable.
5. Match coat & blankets – Decorated or plain wool for match coat. Blankets of wool left natural or dyed red, blue or black.
6. Coats – Any mid-18^th century style of coat available through trade. Material is wool or linen.

Accessories

1. Make-up - Ochre paints only with colors documented. Red is the most common.
2. Jewelry – Documented available trade goods of silver, copper or brass. Glass beads must be of the type available to the time period and group represented.
3. Bags, packs & baskets – Handmade using natural material and of a style available to time period. If decorated with specific designs or with special use/significance the individual must be able to fully explain their documentation and the item’s origin.
4. Hair – Tied or twisted to correct style of Nation portraying. This includes use of jewelry, ribbon, natural materials or other holdfast items. Modern hair ties will not be used.

APPROVED:

Brian S. Reedy
Chief of Interpretation & Site Manager
October 1, 2018