Charles Crenchaw: An American Mountaineer

An original portrait of Charles Crenchaw.

This portrait of Charles Crenchaw was painted by Lamont Joseph White, commissioned in 2020 by the Joy Trip Project and funded by Outdoor Research for a display at the American Mountaineering Museum in Golden Colorado.

Almost unbeknownst in mountaineering history is a man by the name of Charles Madison Crenchaw. His early years remain largely a mystery, but one truth stands firm: he had a profound passion for climbing mountains. On July 9, 1964, just a week after President Lyndon B. Johnson enacted the Civil Rights Act of 1964—an essential turning point in the fight against legal segregation—Crenchaw, almost unassumingly so, became the first African American to reach the summit of Denali, previously known as Mt. McKinley.

Crenchaw served as a flight engineer for the Tuskegee Airmen, a segregated branch of the US Military comprised primarily of African American military pilots, airmen, and other supporting staff who fought during WWII. After his service, Crenchaw harnessed the benefits of the GI Bill, embarking on an academic path that led him to Morehouse College and later to the University of Chicago, where he earned a doctoral degree in engineering.

Settling in the Pacific Northwest, he found his professional calling at Boeing, contributing to quality control in the Apollo program. It was here, amidst the towering peaks and expansive horizons, that Crenchaw's passion for climbing blossomed. By 1961, he joined the Seattle Mountaineers, quickly earning a reputation for tackling some of North America’s most majestic mountains, including Mt. Rainier and Mt. Baker.

In 1963, he received an invitation from Al Randell to join an expedition to Denali. Alongside a team of 15 climbers, Crenchaw embarked on one of the largest private group attempts to summit the peak. The journey was fraught with the typical challenges of high-altitude climbing, including fierce weather and the complexities of feeding a sizable crew. Yet, perseverance prevailed, and on June 9, 1964, the majority of the climbers reached the summit. Among the accolades was a quiet but notable mention: “The first Negro to climb Mt. McKinley.”

Perhaps one of the most astounding facets of Crenchaw’s story is the disruption of the predominate African American identity during the Civil Rights era. He did not fit the mold of an activist or a victim; instead, he navigated a complex web of societal dynamics, often enjoying privileges that many of his African American contemporaries did not. He carved out a unique space for himself, both professionally and personally. Questions linger about his motivations, his navigation of systemic racism, and how he was perceived within the broader African American community.

Charles M. Crenchaw remains a captivating figure in history, shrouded in mystery and complexity. His story invites us to ponder the interplay of race, identity, and accomplishment, leaving us with more questions than answers and a legacy that may never be fully unraveled.