Notable Highlights in Alaska Range Mountaineering
That same year, a 6-member expedition led by Dr. Frederick Cook attempts Mt. McKinley's Northwest Buttress, reaching an elevation of 11,300 feet. The team completes the expedition by circumnavigating the mountain.
Two expeditions, the Mazama Mountaineering Club of Oregon and the Explorers Club, set out to disprove Dr. Cook's claim of reaching the summit of Mt. McKinley.
The Parker-Browne expedition starts in Seward and travels by dog team through Anderson Pass to Mt. McKinley, reaching the 20,000-foot level before retreating.
The Northwest Buttress of Mt. McKinley also posts its first ascent. Later that season, two of the Northwest Buttress expedition members, Fred Beckey and Henry Mehbohm, record the first ascent of Mt. Hunter and Mt. Deborah.
Pilot Don Sheldon flies the first commercial flight from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier.
A Meiji University team becomes first party to camp on McKinley's summit on May 14 and 15.
The first north-to-south traverse of the mountain from the Muldrow Glacier to the Kahiltna Glacier.
The Denali Medical Research Project begins operations at the 14,200-foot basin.
Daryl Miller and Mark Stasik make the first winter circumnavigation of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker massifs (second complete circumnavigation in history).
The record for the oldest male to reach summit is broken on June 28, 2013 by Alaskan resident Tom Choate, age 78.
(Sources: Denali staff; Bradford Washburn's Mt. McKinley Summary of Attempts and First 100 Ascents; Mt. McKinley - The Pioneer Climbs, by Terris Moore; Denali Symbol of the Alaskan Wild, by Bill Brown, and Mt. McKinley Icy Crown of North America, by Fred Beckey)
Project Jukebox - Denali Mountaineering
The University of Alaska Fairbanks hosts a Denali Mountaineering page of oral history interviews as part of Project Jukebox. More than 40 conversations, most recorded more than a dozen years ago, are available online.