History

Today, climbing opportunities can be found in approximately 25% of National Park Service (NPS) units, but climbing itself pre-dated the establishment of the national park system. The earliest climbs were typically associated with exploration, primarily for mapping and scientific purposes. Mountaineering, as a recreational activity to ascend a summit, didn't reach the United States until the early 1900’s.

 

Sally Dutcher was the first documented woman to climb Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, in October 1875.

Notable first ascents from that era include:

• 1869 - Cathedral Peak in Yosemite National Park, John Muir first solo ascent
• 1868 - Long’s Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, First documented ascent by westerners
• 1898 - Grand Teton in Grand Teton National Park, First undisputed ascent

By the early 1930s, rock climbing, the ascent of steep rock formations, was emerging in some national parks. After World War II, climbers began seeking out crack climbs that could be protected using hammer-driven steel pitons.

The 1950s ushered in the “Big Wall” era of significant ascents:

• 1957 - Half Dome Northwest Face in Yosemite National Park, The era of big wall climbing begins
• 1958 - El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, The Nose ascended in 47 days over 17 months, using 125 bolts, other aid
• 1960 - Long’s Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, First ascent of the Diamond
• 1967 - Great White Throne in Zion National Park, First Zion big wall climb

In the 1960s and 1970s, advancements in climbing equipment gave rise to higher standards of climbing. The creation of removable climbing protection (nuts, hexes, and later, cams) significantly reduced the use of pitons, which damaged the rock. This “clean climbing” was favored for resource protection reasons in national parks and, particularly, wilderness areas.

During this period, NPS climbing closures or permit requirements existed in some parks. These were primarily based on safety concerns for climbers and rangers as many parks lacked climbing and rescue capabilities during this period. The demand for guiding grew, as rock climbing became attractive to more park visitors.

The mid 1980’s to early 1990’s saw an explosive growth in the popularity of climbing and a shift in style and ethics. The interest in difficult, unclimbed rock faces led to a dramatic increase in route development in some national parks. Ascending rock faces without continuous crack systems involved the placement of expansion bolts or “fixed protection.” The route development and popularity of bolt-protected climbs resulted in increased impacts associated with climbing activities. The use of power drills and bolting on rappel facilitated quicker, easier installation of bolts. Style and ethical debates surfaced among climbers and land managers began to address the management of climbing activities and specifically, the installation of fixed anchors.

In the late 1980’s a few national parks conducted studies of climbing use and resource impacts. During the 1990’s, various national parks developed climbing management plans. On a national level, the NPS proposed service-wide guidance on managing climbing in wilderness and non-wilderness. In 2013, NPS policy for managing climbing activities in wilderness was issued. Visitors can find climbing management plans and other park specific climbing information on national park websites.