Frenchy's Cove — pasnene luqtikay

Frenchy's Cove on the right. Tidepools at Cat Rock on the left.

Tim Hauf, timhaufphotography.com

Quick Facts

Amenities

2 listed

Beach/Water Access, Scenic View/Photo Spot

pasnene luqtikay is the Chumash word for Frenchy's Cove. It means 'doorway (opening) of luqtikay (West Anacapa Island),' referring to the beach landing at Frenchy's Cove.

Please see "Ethnographic Island Place Names" below for more information on island place names.

Frenchy's Cove is located on the north side of West Anacapa Island. It is the most popular anchorage on the island, providing some protection from the west wind and swell. The cobblestone beach at Frenchy's Cove is an ideal place to land, picnic, explore protected tidepools (located to the south of the cove), and snorkel. Due to the State of California's  Anacapa Special Closure - Brown Pelican Fledgling Area, the beach and anchorage is currently closed from January 1 through October 31.
 

Raymond "Frenchy" LeDreau
Frenchy's Cove was named after Raymond "Frenchy" LeDreau, an emigrant from Brittany, France, who arrived on Anacapa in 1928 prior to the establishment of the National Monument. LeDreau had studied for the priesthood but became disenchanted with the church and so took to the sea. He reportedly joined the U. S. Navy and fought in the Spanish-American War. While on leave in California he met a woman named Emma and married, producing three children. His wife died in the 1918 flu epidemic and in his grief LeDreau took up fishing, drinking and the life of a hermit.

After settling on Anacapa he built or adopted several huts perched on a ledge overlooking what would be called Frenchy's Cove. With no natural water source, he gathered rainwater in barrels, and collected driftwood for fires. LeDreau focused his energies on lobster fishing, for which he constructed wood and wire traps held afloat by empty wine bottles. He sold fish to passing boats, and acted as a popular host to fishermen, and island visitors on boats, as related by historian Karen Jones Dowty:

"In his customary red flannels and a three-day stubble on his face, Frenchie would be stoking the fire from a wood pile that housed his colony of semi-wild cats. Beer and wine would be passed around. The sea stories would start and so would another day in Frenchie's Cove."

Friends old and new brought him food and supplies in return for lobster, abalone and conversation. He was an educated man, apt to discuss literature and sing an aria in a tenor voice. LeDreau also served as watchman over caches of liquor temporarily stashed in certain caves and the chicken coop on the island during prohibition and made "good money." LeDreau told Don Meadows about the time when a purse seiner loaded with 1,000 cases of Scotch whiskey approached the island in need of storage, so LeDreau showed the crew a large cave near his camp. For three days' storage he received five cases of whiskey, fifty dollars and an equal amount worth of supplies.

LeDreau's livelihood could have been threatened by the creation of Channel Islands National Monument in 1938 but for his beguiling character and interest in the island's natural history. When park service biologist Lowell Sumner visited Anacapa that year to evaluate its resources, he found that LeDreau exhibited an accurate knowledge of and interest in the pelicans and other wildlife, and suggested that he be given some sort of minor custodianship and authorization to warn away would-be egg collectors. "Mr. LeDreau was exceedingly friendly and helpful to the investigating party. He is undoubtedly a conscientious well meaning person who would be happy to assist in the preservation of the various features of the island." The only drawback was Frenchy's cats, but Sumner dismissed their dangers to wildlife by explaining that they were well fed by their master. "In any event," wrote Sumner, "it is recommended that the livelihood of Mr. LeDreau not be interrupted and that he be allowed to remain on the island as long as he desires."

By 1941 LeDreau was receiving copies of Superintendent Scoyen's letters and called an informal caretaker. Park personnel established camp with him when they visited the island, stayed in his cabins, and used his rowboat and outboard motor. LeDreau chased off vandals and reported on happenings at the island during the early years of the national monument. The only other inhabitant on the island as of June 1939 was a lobster fisherman named Cal Vollin who was said to have lived there for many years. For years Frenchy's cabins appeared in photographs of the cove area and his presence became known farther afield.

Sidney Lang of Bakersfield visited with Frenchy LeDreau in 1950 when he and friends established camp for a week at Frenchy's Cove. Lang considered LeDreau to be a hermit who enjoyed company:

"We invaded his privacy without notifying him or seeking permission. This seemed to please him rather than perplex him. From the first he was friendly and helpful. He greeted us with all of the expressions of happiness of which a Frenchman is capable short of kissing us on the cheek. He made us feel that we had been long expected and that he was glad we had arrived."

Lang described LeDreau's bouts with alcohol, his expertise at locating fishing spots and his dirty cabin, where the walls "were nearly obscured by smoke from the kerosene stove and lamps and the grease from many skillets of sea food." But Frenchy had a fine view of the ocean through the shack's window, and his personality made up for any shortcomings in housekeeping. Lang wrote that LeDreau's attire "seemed to fit his situation but did not invite close association. His cap, shirt and pants were stained, spotted, and glazed from toiling with things of the sea. Long underwear gasped for fresh air where loose buttons and shirt sleeves allowed it to escape. It took only minutes to find that his character contrasted with his outward appearance."

The National Park Service allowed LeDreau to stay as a caretaker into the 1950s. Superintendent Scoyen visited with Frenchy in the fall of 1950 and then wrote to his superiors that "Mr. Raymond (Frenchy) LeDreau still maintains residence on the island. Neither Frenchy nor his shack show any change, except that additional junk has accumulated around the place . . . I think all are agreed to leave the old Frenchman undisturbed." A bureaucrat in the San Francisco office agreed with Scoyen's assessment, writing that LeDreau "does a little lobster fishing and is quite old, and may well be permitted to end his days there. His cabin is clean, but the surroundings should be better policed . . . ."

Raymond LeDreau continued to act as the caretaker and greeter at Anacapa until, at age 80, falling from the cliff near his shack, sustaining severe injuries. He was reportedly found semi-conscious and bloody by passing fishermen, who took him to the mainland for treatment. He apparently returned to his cove but the park service decided that it would be in his best interest to leave the isolated island and so, after 28 years on Anacapa, Raymond "Frenchy" LeDreau was taken to the mainland where he immediately and mysteriously disappeared.


First National Park Service Ranger Station
In a pilot study of the island in 1959, Frenchy’s Cove was selected for park headquarters since it was a site that had been established as a development area under Mission 66. Seasonal rangers arrived on Anacapa on June 15, 1959, and went to work setting up the area so that it resembled an area under the protection of the Park Service.  Debris at Frenchy’s Cove was cleaned up, three of the four shacks were given temporaray repair, and an outhouse was constructed.

In July 1959, Anacapa Island was finally opened to visitors with ranger service provided. Positive publicity caused visitor numbers to rise dramatically by the end of summer: the ranger counted 103 boats with 427 passengers, and 93 campers, 48 of whom stayed for more than five days.  

Anacapa Island continued to be popular with private boaters and visitors arriving on boats operated by Island Packers, the first transportation company to operate as a park service concession beginning in 1968 with day and camping trips to Frenchy's Cove for $7.50. Over 50 years later, Island Packers still transports visitors to the park.


Pelicans of West Anacapa Island
Except for the beach at Frenchy's Cove, West Anacapa is designated as a Research Natural Area and is closed to the public in order to protect nesting California brown pelicans.

Anacapa Island, the other Channel Islands, and all their associated islets and offshore rocks comprise one of the largest breeding centers on the west coast for sea birds and shore birds. Their isolation and freedom from predators and human disturbance, and the abundance of food in the cold, nutrient-rich ocean waters, make them an ideal place for marine birds to breed and rear their young.

On the north slopes of West Anacapa, California brown pelicans typically nest and raise their young from January through October. In fact, West Anacapa has the largest and most consistently used brown pelican nesting colony on the West Coast of the United States. Brown pelicans will abandon their nests if disturbed, leaving the eggs and chicks defenseless against predators such as gulls and ravens. A serious disturbance can cause an entire colony to be abandoned. For this reason Anacapa's isolation is a critical factor in the successful nesting of these seabirds.

But even the island's isolation could not protect California brown pelicans from human impacts. The gathering of eggs, disturbance of rookeries, and pesticides have all been detrimental. The pesticide DDT nearly caused the pelican to become extinct as a breeding species on the west coast of the United States. In 1970, on neighboring Anacapa Island, only 552 nesting attempts were made with just one chick surviving. On October 13, 1970, the brown pelican was listed as an endangered species.

Today, the recovery of the California brown pelican and other seabrid species continues as their isolated island home is ensured protection within Channel Islands National Park. Through monitoring and restoration programs, the park and its partners are working to conserve critical nesting habitat and to protect the integrity of island and marine ecosystems that support 90 percent of the seabird populations in southern California.


Tidepooling
The only accessible site on Anacapa Island for tidepooling is near Frenchy's Cove on the south side of West Anacapa Island. There is no land access to Frenchys Cove or any other tidepools from East Anacapa. All access if via private vessel. 

The trail from Frenchy's Cove to the tidepools is currently closed. So access to the tidepools is only via skiff on the other side (south side) of Frenchy's Cove near Cat Rock.

Due to their relative isolation and protection, the tidepools in Channel Islands National Park are some of the best within southern California. Anemones, sea stars, urchins, limpets, periwinkles, chitons, barnacles, mussels, and many other beautiful species can be seen at numerous pristine tidepool sites such as Frenchys Cove.

The area between the land and the sea is not distinct, but is a zone of transition. This area may be covered with water during high tide or exposed to sunlight during low tide. Life in this intertidal region must be the hardiest within the marine environment-able to withstand hours of exposure and the incessant pounding of the energy-filled surf.

Intertidal life has adapted to the sea and the land. When looking at a tidepool area, notice how plants and animals may be found in certain areas and not in others. Those living in the upper splash zone are tolerant to sunlight, heat, and water loss and have either a means to "shelter" themselves or the ability to move into an area of greater moisture. An animal with a tightly closed shell or a shell firmly attached to rock will hold water within, so that it does not require water surrounding it at all times. Animals found in rock crevices and submerged pools usually require more moisture to prevent them from drying out.

How an animal feeds often depends on its ability to move. An animal that moves about is able to search for its food. Some graze the rocks for algae, while others feed on settled debris. An animal that remains stationary feeds on food particles suspended within water.

Because space is a limiting factor, there is competition between organisms. Many animals and plants are found in a small area, some may live on each other, or use an old shell as a surface on which to live. This is one important reason why collecting is not permitted-you may be taking away a home.

Although hardy against the forces of nature, the plants and animals of the intertidal zone cannot entirely endure the impact of humans. Since individuals interact with one another, minute changes in the area could disrupt the entire community. While exploring, please keep in mind these tidepool tips:

- Watch your step! The rocks can be very slippery and there may be small animals on the rocks.
- Keep an eye on the waves. The surge can sneak up on you.
- Take your time and look carefully. Tidepool organisms are often very small and camouflaged.
- Do not collect anything! Not only is it unlawful, but if animals and shells are taken, there may be nothing left for others to enjoy.
- If you pick up an animal to observe, please place it back where it was found. That particular spot is its home territory.

Although you may not know the animals by name, through simple observation a great deal of information can be learned. Consider, for example, what keeps it from drying out? Why doesn't it get swept out to sea? Does it search for food or wait for food to come to it?

Tidepool Species

Snails
Snails are abundant in the intertidal zone. Varieties include black and brown turban snails and periwinkles. At low tide some nestle tightly in crevices. Most snails graze on algae, scraping them off the rock with a rough, tongue-like radula.

Snails can withdraw into their shells, behind a trapdoor-like bony plate called an operculum. This protects them from predators and water loss. Some exude mucus that coats their shells and helps them stick to the rocks and hold in precious moisture.

Barnacles
Related to crabs and shrimp, barnacles cluster on surfaces at every level of the intertidal zone. They attach themselves headfirst and use their feathery legs to absorb oxygen and net food that floats by. Barnacles' shells are a series of connected, overlapping plates. Some are volcano shaped and some are camouflaged to their surroundings. Varieties include the acorn, pink, and gooseneck barnacles.

California Mussel
Mussels anchor themselves with tough, fibrous threads. Shells up to six inches long protect these animals. Their gills provide the mussels with oxygen and help them capture food. When the tide is in, they open just enough to filter the seawater for tiny floating plants and animals. As one of the most abundant animals in the intertidal zone, mussels are also a key food source for others in the food chain.

Chiton
Chitons cling to the rocks with their foot at low tides. When the tide is high and it is safe, they venture out to eat by scraping algae, bacteria, and diatoms off the rocks. Chitons blend in well with the rocks in the intertidal zone. Their shells are made of eight overlapping plates. Like pill bugs on land, these armored animals roll up to protect themselves from predators. The three-inch-long mossy chitons are one of several species here. Their mossy looks come from the stiff hairs that fringe their edges and the algae that often grow on their shells.

Algae
Algae are near the bottom of the tidepool food web. They use photosynthesis to capture light energy from the sun. Large algae cling to the rocks and seafloor with root-like holdfasts. Algae range in size from single-celled organisms to 150-foot-long giant kelp. Rockweed algae grow to 10 inches in the intertidal zone. They mark the high-tide line like "bathtub rings." Coralline algae, once mistaken for coral, are crunchy due to calcium carbonate in their cell walls. They range from flat to three inches in height.

Sea Star
Sea stars use hundreds of suction-cupped feet to move and capture food, which they eat with stomachs in the center of their bodies. Bat stars have extra webbing between their arms. They graze over algae and rocks in the intertidal zone, eating tiny algae, plants, and animals. The most common sea stars found in the intertidal zone are the ochre stars. Up to 18 inches across, they can be found in ochre (orange), yellow, red, brown, or purple. They feed upon mussels from the intertidal zone, freeing up habitat for other species that thrive there.

Striped Shore Crab
These crabs live on the sand, mud, or rocks near tidepools, splitting their time between land and sea. They eat algae and animals-dead or alive. Striped shore crabs make the tiny clicking sounds that are heard near tidepools. As they outgrow their shells, they cast them off. The new underlying soft shells harden quickly. Striped shore crabs are common on the Channel Islands. They are striped in black and green, with red or purple claws, and grow to two inches in diameter.

Anemone
The giant green anemone and the slightly smaller aggregate anemone are both common in tidepools. They look very similar to one another. However, the giant green anemone is usually solitary, and the aggregate anemone lives in colonies of many individuals. Both are blue-green in color, which comes from algae living inside of them. Their tentacles capture and paralyze small animals, dragging them to their central mouths to be digested. At low tide they retract their tentacles to stay moist. Sand and gravel stick to their surfaces, serving as camouflage. They grow to 10 inches wide.

Sea Urchin
Sea urchins live in the intertidal zone to 100 feet in depth. At low tide, they take shelter from waves in rock cavities. At other times they roam in search of their favorite foods, giant kelp and other algae. Urchins have hard, round shells called tests, covered with spines. Spines can break off in human skin and be painful and hard to remove. Related to sea stars, they have similar tube feet that stick out between their spines for maneuvering and capturing prey. They also have a central mouth with strong jaws and sharp teeth.

Sandcastle Worm
The sandcastle worm is about two inches long and forms tubes of cemented sand grains that shield the worm's body. These worms build huge colonies of honeycombed, reef-like structures that often appear like a rock to the casual observer. If you look closely you can see the openings of individual worm houses.

 

Ethnographic Island Place Names
Ethnographic island place names aid in native language revitalization, illustrate cultural values, and provide tangible connections to cultural landscapes and seascapes.

Many of these place names were recorded by ethnographers and anthropologists in the late 1800 and early 1900s. J.P. Harrington was an ethnographer who worked for the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., from 1915 to 1955. He interviewed American Indian consultants, including Chumash and Gabrielino Tribal members, and recorded information about native languages and culture.

Chumash Indians Fernando Librado (Kitsepawit) and Juan Estevan Pico were the main sources for island place names. They were both born and raised in Ventura. They learned of the island places from Chumash elders, most notably Ursula (of wima) and Martina (of limuw.) Pico's interviews of Martina resulted in a list of island place names given in order from east to west (or vice/versa,) to anthropologist, H.W. Henshaw. Anthropologists have cross-referenced Pico's list with the archeological record, baptismals, and marriage patterns.

Twenty-six new place names were recently identified and mapped by Matthew Vestuto (Barbareño/Ventureño Band of Mission Indians; Advocates for Indigenous California Language Survival) with assistance from Kristin Hoppa (Archeologist, Channel Islands National Park) and the Chumash community. These names reference island peaks, water, landforms, islets, trails, caves, and beaches.

Please note that lowercase is used because capitalization is a convention in English which poses problems in the writing of native languages.