YELLOWSTONE Early History of Yellowstone National Park and Its Relation to National Park Policies

September 1 our party struck camp near the falls and moved up, still on the west side of the river, toward the lake. Hauser, Stickney, Langford, Moore, and myself, not yet satisfied with our views of the falls did not accompany the train, but returning spent the day 'til high 12, slaking our souls with the beauty and inspiration flowing from those incomparable masterpieces of nature. In about 6 miles from the falls we came to a broad, open space of lowland, through the center of which runs a considerable sized creek of alum water. We crossed without any trouble, where we anticipated much. From this creek we first came in sight of our train, near the base of an isolated mountain, to the right of our course, and some 2 or 3 miles away from the river. We could also see smoke or vapor rising in continuous columns from the western end of the mountain. Pushing on as fast as the wet and loose nature of the ground would admit, we were soon in the midst of a new field of wonders, apparently, in the very crater of an extinct volcano, whose smouldering fires were finding vent through hundreds of smaller outlets. The field of this activity was confined to the southern slope of this mountain. At its base were large sized, hot, boiling, sulphur springs. One among these deserves particular mention for size, activity, and appearance; its basin was 20 feet in diameter, and was full to overflowing with scalding water of yellowish clouded color, much impregnated with sulphur, which was deposited all around the margin of this basin and along the channel, by which its overflowings passed away. The water in the basin was in constant, violent agitation, sometimes bursting out with terrific force, throwing the whole of its contents into the form of an irregular cone, 6 feet in hight (sic), and dashing it when it fell all over its sides, whence part would trickle back and the most run away. The margin was beautifully scalloped and fluted, its inner facing bright yellow as pure brimstone, fading into gray further back. From another smaller crater, lower and further to the west, issued dense, sulphurous vapors, in irregular jets, accompanied with a deep, guttural sound, somewhat resembling the sound of a steamboat when laboring over a sand bar. No water was visible in this crater, but its dashings in the depths below could be distinctly heard, and occasionally drops were thrown out. All over the southern slope of the mountain, from hundreds of crevices issued fumes and smoke of sulphur, whilst every such outlet was encircled with converging chrystals (sic) and orifices of pre bright, yellow brimstone. So brittle was the crust that it was constantly breaking under our feet, opening occasionally to view the most beautiful little caves and grottoes, lined throughout with the same bright, yellow chrystals. So hot was the surface of this part of the mountain that our thick boots in rapid motion could hardly be kept tolerable. Acres of surface were thus covered with almost pure brimstone. The specimens we brought away will speak for themselves. At the southeast foot of this mountain was a distinct basin of springs, which as they did not exhibit any wonderful symptoms, we did not visit, but mounting our horses we rode over to an entirely separate basin, about 30 rods to the southwest, where, in our approach we were compelled to dismount, as our horses began to break through. In this heart-shaped basin were scores of mud springs of all degrees of consistency, and of great variety of color. It was the most dangerous looking crater to explore of any that we traversed. The surface appeared to be simply a crust of indurated mud over a boiling lake of fire and brimstone. Down through the many vent holes we could see the yellowish liquid, boiling and sputtering in receding caverns apparently connected together. It looked like an infernal dyehouse, where pots of pigments were in process of preparation. Here was a pot of light yellow color, within 2 feet another of pink, and another of lead color, with various intermediate shades. The tout ensemble was decidedly unique and picturesque in the extreme.

So long had we tarried to survey these wonders, that we lost all thought of our distant train and declining day. Putting spurs to our horses we bounded over hills and heaths in the supposed direction of our train, skirting on our way a lazy creek, coiled up like a monster serpent under a sand bluff; then, through a low, flat, bottom, almost on a level with the river's surface, and covered with coarse swamp grass reaching to the horses' shoulders, then, bending around the base of a protruding bluff, we caught the welcome sight of camp among scattered trees close by the river's side. Supper was nearly ready, and we were quite so. Such venison and trout as we had would be sweet to take under any circumstances, but for a keen relish commend me to a day's riding and pleasurable sightseeing.

Dense clouds of vapor rising from a neighboring pine grove, and low, sullen, booming sounds that made the earth tremble, gave notice that grander scenes awaited us. Hunger is easier satisfied than curiosity. We were soon following sight and sound in a southwest direction. General Washburn having been in advance, became our guide, and took us first to see a most singular spring that issues from the mouth of a cave. The substance of the top and sides of this cave seem like decomposed marble purely white, but the dashing of the water and the constant exhalations of steam have left a deposit of the deepest green, vitriol looking substance, over much of the surface, contrasting beautifully with the white, as well as with the perfectly clear water in the bottom of the cave. The debris from the crumbling sides had been carried out and built up by the dashing waters into an embankment of pure, white sand, about a foot high, and a little out from the mouth of the cave. Back of this the waters rose to the brim, and overrun, at each spasmodic exhalation of steam, recurring almost as regularly as those of a steam engine. This cave seemed to be at the head of a ravine and at the base of a pine-covered hill. The mouth of the cave was about 6 feet in diameter, and its top sloped rapidly to the surface of the water, touching it at about 25 feet from its mouth. In any other vicinity it would have attracted more attention.

About a dozen rods distant, perhaps 20, the most singular phenomenon that had yet been seen in this region, prolific in wonders, attracted and absorbed our attention and interest. From out the murky mouth of a mud-covered mound were rolling rounded volumes of commingled smoke and steam, surcharged with sulphurous gas, an intermittent, rather irregular booming sound, as of a mighty engine, which echoed through the deep woods, quaked the ground beneath us, and produced a feeling of awe as we cautiously approached the brim of the crater. At intervals the smoke would roll back for an instant, and we could see the shape and dimensions of the opening. It was nearly circular, 30 feet in diameter at the top, then appearing to contract like the neck of an urn, swelling out again further down. At another visit, the day following, and after a most thorough watching and examination, I gained an indelible impression of its force and appearance, whilst my wonder was proportionately increased. In one respect different from anything seen on our whole trip, this monster was of very recent date. Alone by itself, on the slope of a wooded hill it had evidently burst forth in an instant, hurling stone, soil, trees, and muddy lava in hot and promiscuous ruin in all directions. Approaching from below, the mound rises 30 feet; on the side next to the hill it is but very little above the natural surface. The entire surface of the mound is covered with a lead colored, very rough indurated mud. The same substance covers all the surrounding trees and bushes, dried on just as it fell, with no rain or snowstorm to dissolve or loosen it since. The wind had shaken these trees in vain. In all the rough fantastic (sic) shapes in which this plastic mud had first fallen, the sun had baked it, and so we saw it. We tried to transport some specimens of small limbs thus covered, but they crumbled. For a radius of 400 feet I traced this mud on earth and tree, while other trees that stood along the crest of the hill above the crater, 200 feet above were shorn of limbs. I watched with others for hours, trying in vain to catch sight of the liquid mass in the belly of the crater, whose surging and splashing we could distinctly hear, sometimes seemingly thrown almost to the top. This veritable mud volcano was surely of most recent date, probably not two months old, possible not two weeks old. Should there yet be found in this region full-fledged volcanoes emitting smoke, cinders, and molten larva, it would not surprise me any more or convince me any stronger that this was a region of active volcanic forces.

Between the mud volcano and the river, about a quarter of a mile distant, is a remarkable hot spring, becoming at times a spouting geyser of magnificent proportions. In a basin of about 8 rods in diameter and containing several small springs of various qualities, this one spring had a funnel-shaped bowl, sometimes quite empty and 25 feet deep, showing an aperture of no more than 15 or 18 inches. When empty, the sides of this bowl become almost white. It has a beautiful mottled appearance, ruffled and ridged all over. The spring is recent, or the mineral solution slight, for the deposit is quite thin, though solid, specimens of which I brought away with me. Gradually and quietly this basin fills, when suddenly bursts forth the most terrific agitation; the whole mass of water turns to froth and leaps up in wild, irregular spouts. Sometimes the whole volume seems lifted at once. Probably some of these jets reach the hight of 50 feet. The geysers that we subsequently saw in the Madison Valley were radically different in all their features, but this one was in our eyes so marvelous that we felt ourselves more than rewarded for the toil, trouble, and expense of the trip. During this violent agitation, not more than 10 minutes long, a dense, unbroken volume of steam rises in a cloudy column that can be seen many miles away. These spasms are very irregular, and many hours at one time we sat under the neighboring pines awaiting the troubling of its waters. It came in a most exciting display.

Yours,

CORNELIUS HEDGES.

(Helena (Mont.) Daily Herald, October 24, 1870.)