Cover Page

Preface

Introduction

Breeches, Blouses, and Skirts

Photofile

Bibliography

Notes

Appendix A

Appendix B

Appendix C

National Park Service Uniforms Breeches, Blouses, and Skirts 1918-1991	Number 4
Breeches, Blouses, and Skirts (continued)

Up until July 1, 1965, women rangers had been paid the same ($100.00 initial and $100.00 yearly replacement) uniform allowance that men received. That year the allowance was increased to $125.00/$125.00 for men and $125.00/$100.00 for women. This discrepancy was no doubt due to the women's uniform ensemble being less expensive than the men's, but the frequent uniform changes were not taken into account. There were a number of variables (no coat, etc.) that would reduce the allowance. The above is for an employee required to have the entire Class 'A' kit. It wasn't until July 21, 1966 that this was increased to $125.00, bringing it up to par with the men. [15]

Janet K. Seapker - NCFA/WHHO, 1967. This excellent view of the 1962 uniform shows that the cap did not always "mess-up" the women's hairdos. Seapker is wearing the "National Park Service" (Model 1960C-All uniformed personnel, except superintendents and rangers) badge. NPSHPC - Jack Rottier photo - HFC#-NCR/WASO9997-F

The 1962 uniform charge had done nothing for the image of women in the Service. "Early orthopedic" and "old maid dowdy" are two of the appellations applied to this uniform by personnel in the field. It was not only unattractive, but often a "source of professional frustration" to the women wearing it.

Originally designed for airline stewardesses, for whose limited activities it served well, the uniform proved totally inadequate for the varied functions and duties of the women in the Service. This was one of the main issues Director George B. Hartzog directed the 1968 Uniform Committee, chaired by Midwest Regional Director Fred C. Fagergren, to address.

Robert Gibbs, chief of Park Operations, and a member of the Committee, was assigned the task of implementing the directive. He, in turn, asked Carole Scanlon, an interpreter from Independence National Historical Park, to sit on the committee and represent the women in the field. It is not clear at this juncture, whether Carole was invited to join the committee, before or after, the issuance of the 1969 uniform regulations. From the subsequent changes, it would appear to be the latter.

The new uniform regulations, to become effective January 1, 1971, were drawn up and distributed to the field under Director's cover letter, dated July 2, 1969. These contain a written description, as well as crude sketches for new uniforms. The sketches appear to have been cut out of a catalogue and then outlined with pencil, or ink, in order to make them stand out, when copied.

Color was not specified, saying only that "all to be of standard basic color". It can be assumed that this refers to the "green, loden green" listed under "Basic colors" elsewhere in the general uniform regulations. A "Proper green-colored dress", for work and an optional "standard green-colored" sweater, along with white blouse and cloth accessories, are the only colors specifically listed.

E. Elaine (Russell) Clark, Park Guide, Andrew Johnson National Monument, 1963. Like the example shown earlier, Clark updated her 1961 pattern hat by applying a small arrowhead patch, but she is apparently wearing the 1962 pattern skirt. NPSHPC - HFC#63-3164

House where Lincoln died, 1967. This is part of Ford's Theater National Historic Site. Miss Rolle is shown wearing a 1962 pattern uniform. These uniforms were ideally suited for urban sites such as this. NPSHPC - M. Woodbridge Williams photo - HFC/NPS-543-1-7

The regulations specified that the women's uniform was to consist of the following:

Dress-	synthetic combination wool-jersey knit "yoke shift", standup collar with the arrowhead shoulder patch.
Jacket -	blazer type of synthetic combination wool-jersey knit, without collar, double breasted with gold colored NPS buttons, arrowhead shoulder patch.
Vest -	V-neck type synthetic combination wool jersey knit with gold colored NPS buttons down the front and on pocket worn with nameplate.
Blouse -	white Bermuda or Peter Pan type collar, roll up sleeves for wear without blazer or vest or short sleeve for wear with blazer. Dacron-polyester cotton blend.
Scarf -	silk or nylon with small arrowhead insignia interweave or matched motif, in various sizes for wear as muffler, scarf, in hair or as handkerchief.
Skirt -	A-line with 1 inch or small waistband combination synthetic (wool material); jacket, vest and skirt can all be of combination wool jersey or cotton just so pieces match in material weight and color—one is washable, other must be dry cleaned.
Hat -	pillbox, made of material to match jacket vest, skirt and dress; similar to United Airlines Stewardess style 1969.
Straw -	rough-braid with small brim, gross-grained and stitched cordovan colored plastic band insert.

1962 pattern (stewardess style) woman's uniform. Also shown is a variant style hat with pin stripes made by Mae Hanauer of New York. NPSHPC - HFC

Marie K. Absalon gives Joan Riley her "Golden Eagle" Pass at Morristown National Historical Park, 1966. Absalon is wearing the 1961 pattern uniform with the 1962 hat. Most women, who had purchased the new uniform in 1960, when first authorized, continued to wear them, as long as they were serviceable, even after the 1962 pattern came out. The two uniforms were compatible since both were made from the same material. Only the cap insignia needed to be changed. NPSHPC - Jack E. Boucher photo - HFC#96-1335

Even though mini-skirts were in vogue, the hem of the dress and skirt were not to exceed 2 inches above the knee. When prescribed by the superintendent, depending on duty, any of the above could be worn in the field, except for the dress, including the substitution of culottes or slacks of the same material, for the skirt.

A "Proper green-colored dress or jumper" was also prescribed for work (apparently dirty work), along with a number of optional items.

All-weather coat - (hat to match) Balmacca features Ze Pel treated for water with or without zipper acrylic pile liner.

Sweater - standard green-colored, long sleeved cardigan style wool or nylon.

Gloves - white if cloth, cordovan if leather or plastic.

Purse (or handbag) - white if cloth, cordovan if leather or plastic.

All of the above refer you to the illustrations in back of the uniform regulations. It can be assumed that the uniform committees original idea was to have everyone in the Service dressed in the standard forest green. Even the swim suits and terrycloth beach robe are specified to be this color. (See Appendix A)

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