Chapter 2:
"Like an Immense Ruined Castle"
AFTER EXPLORING CLIFF PALACE, Richard Wetherill and
Charlie Mason found Spruce Tree House and Square Tower House within
twenty-four hours. Then the two cowboys turned toward home with the news
of their find. They did not arrive that day. When they reached the camp
of several friends, they excitedly told of their discoveries in the
canyons. Catching the fever, the whole group, joined by John Wetherill,
set out on foot, with packs, to collect artifacts. Success rewarded
their dig; John later wrote that they dug for about thirty days and took
out a fine collection, which they carried back to the Alamo Ranch. In
the spring, Mason and Clayton Wetherill went back to collect more; the
"rush" had begun.
According to John's recollection, B. K. Wetherill
grasped the significance of what his sons and friends were uncovering
and wrote to the Smithsonian Institution to inquire about selling the
collected relics. He contacted the Smithsonian because it administered
the United States National Museum, the designated repository for
artifacts found on federal land. Unfortunately, museum funds were not
available, and the Smithsonian became the first, but not the last, to
pass up a momentous opportunity. [1]
The institution's decision reflected the economics of
the situation rather than a lack of interest. Americans in the 1890s
were showing more concern for conservation and preservation. Yellowstone
National Park had already been established, and a movement for creating
national forests was gaining momentum. The Wetherills, in their own
quiet way, were in the vanguard of the so far unsuccessful movement to
establish some form of protection for the ruins; they looked beyond mere
collecting to preservation.
It has been documented that Benjamin Wetherill wrote
again to the Smithsonian Institution in December 1889 and several times
in early 1890 to seek assistance and guidance for exploration. In so
doing, he revealed much about his sons' activities and attitudes. "We
keep a strict record of all our discoveries where found etc and all
other items of interest," he proudly noted and included a copy of the
notes for December 11, 1889. Considering the state of archaeology at
that time and the Wetherills' lack of training, the six handwritten
pages displayed an astonishing competence and sensitivity. Of the cliff
houses, which he claimed the boys had been exploring for four years, he
said: "We now have a number of photographs of some of them." Tragically,
the Smithsonian did nothing to support the family's explorations, a not
unexpected response from an institution that depended so extensively
during these years on donations and volunteers to supplement its
chronically underfunded budget. With incredible insight, the senior
Wetherill wrote on February 11, 1880: "We are particular to preserve the
buildings, but fear, unless the Govt. sees proper to make a national
park of the canons, including Mesa Verde that the tourists will destroy
them." [2] Nothing happened, the moment passed,
and Mesa Verde's treasures were left to chance.
Meanwhile the Wetherills took the first collection to
Durango on March 2, 1889, where it was placed on exhibit the following
week in the Fair Building. Several hundred Durangoans toured the exhibit
in its first three days, to Mason's amazement: "We had not expected that
other people would be as much interested in the collection as we had
been." The excitement the show generated led the Wetherills to charge
twenty-five cents admission in order to pay for their time in showing
visitors around. Several citizens of Durango considered buying the
collection, which the Herald rated as the "finest collection of
relics in existence . . . a valuable one." They, too, failed to come up
with the necessary funds. In mid-April, when B. K. Wetherill appeared
with some new artifacts, which included an "infant dried to bones," the
curiosity seekers flocked in once more. [3]
Realizing the public's interest and hoping, no doubt,
that a larger profit could be reaped on their previous winter's work,
the Wetherill boys packed up the collection and sent it off to Pueblo,
Colorado, under the watchful eye of Charles McLoyd. McLoyd had been
among those in the stockmen's camp on that day, which now seemed a
lifetime ago, when the first news of the discovery of Cliff Palace had
been related by his spellbound cowboy friends.
Pueblo proved to be less than a rousing success, so
it was on to Denver. The exhibition landed a prime site, opposite the
famous Windsor Hotel on Larimer Street. Enthralled Denverites flocked to
see the "best collection of Cliff Dweller relics in the world." The
Weekly Republican, May 30, 1889, urged the people of Denver to
purchase the collection, saying editorially that "it will be an offense
no less heinous than a crime" if it were to be removed from the state.
The writer added that it would be of great benefit to the town and the
state to have the collection permanently placed in the Historical
Society.
At last, the Colorado Historical Society showed
interest in purchasing the collection. Fearful that the relics might be
taken from the state, the Society agreed to buy them for three thousand
dollars, giving a handsome profit to the boys back in Mancos. The
Society lacked sufficient ready cash, so it accepted personal notes from
several of its members until appropriations the next year could provide
funding. It was, crowed the Society's annual report for 18891890,
"the largest and most complete collection owned by any institution, far
outranking the one in the National Museum in Washington. [4]
Both groups involved in the transaction were pleased
with the outcome of their negotiations. The fears of the Society that
the relics would leave the state had been assuaged. Now it owned the
fine collection, which was first exhibited in the Chamber of Commerce
building and later, in June 1895, moved to the State Capitol (today the
collection is in the Society's museum in Denver). The Wetherills, the
beneficiaries of this unexpected windfall, went back to digging at Mesa
Verde. Artifact collecting offered them the benefits of excitement and
adventure, with the added prospects of considerable profit. Its
advantages outweighed those of ranching and farming.
Mason spoke for all of them when he concluded: "Our
previous work had been carried out more to satisfy our own curiosity
than for any other purpose, but this time it was a business proposition.
In no work I ever did are one's expectations so
stimulatedsomething new and strange being uncovered every little
while." Such a commercial attitude might shock today's archaeologists,
but the times of 18891890 were very different, and these were
pioneers just beginning to feel their way. The editor of The
Archeologist, in the February 1894 issue, frankly addressed the
question: "The sale of a whole collection, or part of it, so long as
complete finds are not split, is always proper. Single specimans, bought
of dealers, may be sold with a free conscience, also complete finds."
[5]
The Wetherills actually proved to be much more
conscientious in their archaeological activities than their Mesa Verde
predecessors had been. Richard explained in an April 7, 1890, letter:
"We recognize the fact, the principal sceintific value of collections
existed in the circumstances of their original position, or reference to
the implements or objects with which they are associated, and we worked
accordingly, with a view to throw as much light upon this subject as
possible." [6] The second collection was
followed by two more early in the 1890s, all of which eventually found
their way into museum holdings.
Exploring and collecting, exciting as they were at
times, also had their tedious side. Columbia University professor T.
Mitchell Prudden, who dug with the Wetherills off and on from the
mid-1890s through the next twenty years, recalled entering "upon the
search in the choking dust heaps which the ages have strewn over all the
ruins, and under the piles of fallen masonry." The sun was unrelenting,
the dust cloyed insufferably, and tons of stones resisted displacement.
[7] These summer adventures assuredly gave the
tall, slightly balding physician and professor the relief he sought from
his teaching responsibilities. He grew to love the Southwest.
As the Wetherills explored, dug, and exhibited, news
of their discoveries spread wide. Almost immediately, more visitors
began to appear at the Alamo Ranch, wanting tours. One of them was
Frederick Chapin, an author, confirmed traveler, and enthusiastic
mountaineer who had been visiting Coloradoprimarily Estes
Parkfor years. He arrived at Durango on September 18, after
"ascents of Pike's Peak and Mt. Sneffles," and went on to Alamo Ranch
the next day. He returned the next year for a second tour. His articles
and his 1892 book, The Land of the Cliff-Dwellers, called further
attention to Mesa Verde. The thirty-seven-year-old Chapin thought of his
investigation of the antiquities as a "variation from mountain
climbing," but he used his skills for "scaling cliffs" to reach the
"fortresses."
Chapin thoroughly enjoyed himself and recounted his
experiences with a vigor that captivated readers. From the time of his
arrival at the Alamo Ranch until he returned there from his camp at the
ruins, each day brought new adventures. Chapin found several ways to
reach the mesa top, including the Wetherill's Crinkley Edge Trail, later
known as the infamous Knife Edge. One path led down into the Mancos
Canyon until it intersected an Indian trail; another went west across
the Mancos Valley to Point Lookout and then up a cattle path. The third,
pioneered by Chapin in September 1890, ascended from the Montezuma
Valley. No matter which route was chosen, a trip without pack animals
was out of the question. Provisions for several days had to be
accommodated. And no matter how one reached the top, one arrived hot and
thirsty, with water in short supply.
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Balcony House had been visited by
several parties when Nordenskiold took this photo. John Wetherill is
sitting in the center. (Courtesy: Mesa Verde National
Park)
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Richard Wetherill served as Chapin's guide. They had
a brief confrontation with the Utes, who demanded a toll for the
privilege of crossing the mesa. Wetherill refused to pay and nothing
came of the incident, a fortunate ending because the party was armed
with only a "rickety revolver." Richard's earlier friendship with the
Utes did not prevent trouble throughout this period. They claimed, and
rightly so, that the ruins lay on their reservation. At least one of
them feared the potential impact of the digging on their land. Chapin
recorded these words: "White man dig up Moquis, make Ute sick."
Overcoming the Ute hindrance, Chapin went on to find
Cliff Palace everything he had hoped: "Surely the discoverer had not
over stated the beauty and magnitude of this strange ruin. There it was,
occupying a great oval space under a grand cliff wonderful to behold,
appearing like an immense ruined castle with dismantled towers." Across
the canyon from the site, Chapin and his guide used some of the hand and
toe holds of the original inhabitants to climb down to a dead tree, then
used its branches as a convenient ladder. A steep gulch stopped them,
but not for long, as Richard's rope rappelled them over the ledge. A few
minutes more and Chapin was at last climbing into Cliff Palace.
He later toured other ruins and poked around mesa top
"mounds," where he found pieces of broken pottery and arrow heads. He
avidly photographed what he saw, but like many later visitors, he lost
several of his best shots "from a stupid double-exposure." One of those
he described as "a weird ruin, almost inaccessible." He also lost two
glass plate negatives to a falling rock dislodged as he, John, and
Richard were climbing out of an isolated ruin. [8] Such minor setbacks did not deter Chapin from
this fascinating, strange, and, for him, very romantic place.
Chapin came to Mesa Verde to experience it and to
write about it. He believed his major contribution to be his photographs
and his descriptions of the ruins. Chapin called national attention to
what had been only a local and state sensation, and he set literary and
reporting standards to which those who followed him could aspire.
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Gustav Nordenskiold, the scholarly young
Swedish visitor and writer. (Courtesy: Mesa Verde National
Park)
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As the news of the discovery spread, it attracted the
attention of a slender, twenty-two-year-old Swedish tourist, Gustaf
Nordenskiold. The Wetherills would host no more important visitor than
this young college graduatea student of geology, botany, and
chemistry who had already spent several summers doing field work when a
strenuous 1890 expedition to Spitsbergen felled him with tuberculosis.
In late May 1891, he arrived in New York; after a southern tour, he
reached Denver. It is likely that his predilection for museums brought
him into contact with the early Wetherill collection, and he had
certainly talked with people who knew of Mesa Verde, including botanist
Alice Eastwood, a friend of the Wetherills, who had been there in 1889.
Nordenskiold, leaving Denver with a letter of introduction from
Eastwood, wrote home:
I have now also a ticket down to Durango in south Colorado and back
here again. I am going there to look at the cliff dwellers. [June
27]
I went by train to Durango and from there by coach to Mancos. There I
stayed with a farmer named Wetherill, who drives his cattle in the tract
where the cliff dwellings are, and thus knows them well. He, himself is
old and stays at home while the boys drive the cattle down into the
valley. I decided to go with them to a place where they camp, and then
go with one of them to visit the ruins. My intention was to stay about a
week at Mancos Canyon. Now the week has gone, and I have made up my mind
to stay for one or two months. [July 11] [9]
That visit stretched into more than two months and
produced a major impact on Mesa Verde and on Wetherill's sons, whom
Nordenskiold described as cowboys, "but with a surprising degree of
education."
Before he finally left in November for a tour to the
Grand Canyon, Navajo country, and the Hopi villages, Nordenskiold
excavated at what may be described as the "hall of fame" of Mesa Verde
sitesChapin Mesa and Wetherill Mesa. His day began at 6 a.m., when
he climbed to the site with his workers and a Wetherill, quite often
John:
There we dig, sketch, photograph, label finds and so on till the sun
is high in the sky. Then we have dinner, a tin of corned beef and a loaf
of bread is all we get, for we cannot have much with us, then we resume
work again until the sun begins to sink in the west and the shadows on
the side of the canyon grow long. [10]
Skunks"horrid creatures"threw confusion
into one camp, but Nordenskiold overcame them. He also faced the
continuing problem of dust, which lay so fine and deep in the inner
rooms that you "couldn't dig in it for more than 15 or 20 minutes"
before gasping for breath and needing fresh air, according to one of the
crew, Roe Ethridge. Nothing thwarted Nordenskiold, and for the first
time these ruins were examined by a trained scholar.
An easterner, William Birdsall, was another
inquisitive physician who toured the Southwest as Dr. T. Mitchell
Prudden had. Guided by Richard Wetherill, Birdsall reached
Nordenskiold's camp and observed it for a few days. Before the year was
out, he wrote an article about the experience.
Nordenskiold later in his own book hailed Birdsall's
account as the best description "yet published." At the same time, he
was somewhat aggrieved not to be given credit by Birdsall for the
excavation that had been "instituted by me." [11] Sadly, omissions of that sort and professional
jealousies crept early into the world of Mesa Verde archaeology.
Nordenskiold completed his field work by September 5
and returned to the Alamo Ranch to pack the artifacts into crates and
barrels for shipment to Sweden. He took the loaded treasures to Durango;
from there they were to be shipped by rail to the Swedish consul in New
York. With that development, what had been a brilliant summer excursion
suddenly turned cloudy and threatening, for when Nordenskiold reached
Durango on September 8, he found himself facing objections from unnamed
"authorities" to his shipping the artifacts out of the country.
Believing he had satisfactorily answered their objections, he returned
to the ranch late the same evening. More specimens needed to be packed,
including at least one mummy. On the sixteenth, Nordenskiold sent the
lot to Durango, only to have the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad refuse
to handle them. The startled Swede learned that his actions had created
much ado, and he was being slanderously condemned in the Durango and
Denver papers. He could not believe the charges hurled at
himcollecting relics illegally, damaging the cliff structures, and
attempting to send a valuable collection out of the country, which was
probably the core issue. He promptly and wisely retained a lawyer, who
advised Nordenskiold that his accusers had little legal basis for their
charges. No laws then on the books prohibited acquiring a collection or
sending it out of the country; nevertheless, Nordenskiold suffered the
embarrassment of arrest and interrogation on September 17, in accordance
with a warrant issued at the request of Ute Indian Agent Chas A.
Bartholomew. Nordenskiold was required to post a bond of $1,000.
Durangoans were indignant over Nordenskiold's
expedition, believing it to be one of looting and devastation. Denver
newspapers picked up the inflammatory accusation. The Weekly
Republican hoped that the arrest would "result in putting a stop to
the looting of the cliff-dweller ruins," a sentiment echoed by the
Rocky Mountain News. Nordenskiold, in desperation, got in touch
with the Swedish minister to the United States, who approached the State
Department, which then investigated the case. [12] A hornet's nest of emotion was stirred up in
the process.
Two weeks later, Nordenskiold appeared in District
Court, only to find the complaints had been dismissed. Local residents,
to their chagrin, had discovered that no prohibitory statutes existed.
The Ute agent, Bartholomew, did not attend the hearings, although he had
created some of the trouble. He gave the excuse that Indians had lied to
him about Nordenskiold's activities and that they were now satisfied
that the "graves of their people are not desecrated."
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Cliff Palace, as Nordenskiold
photographed it in 1891. It is located on Chapin Mesa, which
Nordenskiold named after another early visitor, Frederick Chapin.
(Courtesy: Mesa Verde National Park)
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A month of Nordenskiold's time in America had been
lost, not to mention the money spent on legal fees, and this gentle man
had suffered "much unpleasantness." The only benefit to emanate from
this sordid affair was the two weeks' delay of Nordenskiold's departure,
which allowed him to return to Mesa Verde to photograph (he was an
outstanding photographer), take measurements, and draw plans of the
ruins. And there his studies ended. [13]
Understandably, Nordenskiold felt persecuted, but there was little to do
but recover his specimens and ship them to New York. The Republican
of October 8 launched one last blast, demanding a law (state or
federal) to protect these ruins, lest "practically everything of
historical value" be removed.
The issues raised by Nordenskiold's misadventures
would not be resolved easily. Wealthy Americans were "looting" Europe in
search of antiquities to collect and display, and the British had a
worldwide empire from which to gather relics. Some of this gathering was
done in the name of preservation, but much of it was designed to enhance
private collections. Going beyond the issue of local and state
chauvinism, Coloradans had focused on the question of what the best
place was to display and preserve the Mesa Verde material. Would
scholarship and visitation be better served by keeping the collection
near its origin or in Europe? Ideally, the answer would have been the
former; however, the lack of finances and, to a lesser degree, of
professional museum staff put Colorado in second place. Neither the
state nor the federal government seemed prepared to sponsor an
expedition like Nordenskiold's or to undertake protection of the
sites.
Nordenskiold's abrupt visit had raised all these
questions. Coloradans and Americans in general would have to hear more
and read more and feel their way cautiously to find the answers to them.
Nordenskiold had underscored the urgency of the matter, but more time
would be needed to attract popular concern and support.
The concern that had been shown by Durangoans was
commendable, but the treatment of Nordenskiold had bordered on the
contemptible. Two years later, Nordenskiold's monumental work, The
Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde, was published, forever
solidifying his place in archaeology and in the park's history. The book
was the first extensive examination and photographic record of Mesa
Verde prehistory and until 1964 was the only description of the
Wetherill Mesa ruins. His expedition, the first conscientious attempt to
excavate and record Mesa Verde archaeology systematically, proved to be
a milestone in American archaeology. As Robert and Florence Lister later
wrote: "While these modern studies greatly augment and refine the record
of the past, in no way do they detract from the solid achievements of
the young man from Stockholm who came West to regain his health and left
behind a permanent memorial to the American people." [14] Richard Wetherill appreciated what his friend
had accomplished, as did the rest of the Wetherill family. Richard wrote
on December 31, 1893, that everyone who had seen the volume "thinks it
the finest thing of its kind." [15]
For the Wetherills, too, the time of active work at
Mesa Verde was drawing to a close. That Nordenskiold's painstaking field
methods had not been lost upon them was evident in their later
expeditions. They and their friend had pioneered in excavation work at
Mesa Verde and had brought the ancient dwellings to the world's
attention. Although their methods were unquestionably crude by
contemporary standards, they cannot be faulted for them. Al spoke for
all when he wrote about those years:
The cliff-dwelling work was much more exciting than hunting gold (and
I have done both), because we never knew what we might find next. We had
started in as just ordinary pothunters, but, as work progressed along
that sort of questionable business, we developed quite a bit of
scientific knowledge by careful work and comparisons.
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Gustav Nordenskiold took this photograph
of the Alamo Ranch, where he, and many later visitors, started their
Mesa Verde trips. (Courtesy: Mesa Verde National Park)
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A fair evaluation of their efforts was made by
William Birdsall in 1891: "Although not professed archaeologists, they
have amassed a very large collection of the remains of the cliff
dwellers and are in possession of a vast number of observations and
facts concerning them." [16]
For the rest of the 1890s, the Wetherills turned to
making a profit from their discoveries, not unusual for Americans of the
nineteenth century. The Alamo Ranch became, in a manner of speaking, a
Mancos Valley dude ranch, to which a tourist could come and, for
two-dollars-a-day board and room, rest or take a day's guided trip to
the ruins for five dollars. The three-day trip to visit a large number
of ruins evoked the reassurance that those "unaccustomed to such mode of
living need have no fear of danger or discomfort." The "hardy,
resourceful, well-informed" Wetherills, as T. Mitchell Prudden described
them, would handle all problems. Richard also acquired a partner during
this time, photographer Charles B. Lang, and went into the business of
selling photographs at the ranch. He still sold relics, on at least one
occasion on consignment for a friend. Some of his brothers moved away;
marriage had added to their responsibilities, and the ranch and guide
business did not provide enough income for all.
During the Mancos gold excitement in 1893, guests
reclining leisurely in hammocks strung between cottonwood trees could
watch the boys operating a sluice box (with what success, no one can
say). More breathtaking for the people the Wetherills guided into Mesa
Verde was the Crinkley Edge Trail, with its narrow ledge precariously
carved between cliffs above and cliffs below and angled toward the
valley floor. [17]
Visitors kept coming, more each year. They delighted
in the adventures they found at Mesa Verde. Walter Jakway went there in
1899 or 1900 as a small boy, and over eighty years later, he still
remembered the experience vividly.
We took many artifacts like corn grinders out with us. I recall
climbing a long steep ladder to the main veranda. The boys would put a
stick of dynamite with a cap and fuse and throw it in to rout out the
rattle snakes which were thick. Then we went in to explore the old
buildings. A large stone slab was removed from one small room and four
skeletons were standing there. [18]
Alice Palmer Henderson complained that bathing turned
out to be a luxury. Just as well, she decided, because of the dreadful
alkali water, which "takes off what little skin the pinons leave." The
ride over fearsome trails was one she never forgot.
Meanwhile, a group of Mancos young people had found
something unexpected on an excursion to Cliff Palace. They heard
"strange, uncanny sounds. So weird and unearthly were these noises that
they did not tarry long, but hied them quickly home." Richard Wetherill
uncovered the sourcea nest of young "buzzards"! His brother Al
encountered one of the first bored tourists, who was unimpressed by
either the scenery or the cliff dwellings: "Oh, it's all right. But say,
did you ever see the great cornfields of Iowa and Kansas?" [19]
Visitors to the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893 walked
through this replica of McElmo Canyon's Battle Rock to see the Mesa
Verde exhibit. (Courtesy: Chicago Public Library Special
Collections Division)
People were enticed to come west to Mesa Verde by the
1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago, despite its separation in
distance and its disparity in epic from the Mancos Valley. At the
Expositionsurrounded by the Palace of Fine Arts, the world's
tallest Ferris wheel, the exotic "Streets of Cairo" that featured belly
dancers, and the new taste treat called cotton candythe twelve
million visitors could see on the midway a reconstructed canyon of the
cliff dwellers' country. Those who could tear themselves away from the
fair's hedonist attractions saw Square Tower House, Balcony House, and
Cliff Palace, recreated a tenth of their size. At the end of the canyon
sat a museum that included mummies, placed "so as not to offend those
who did not care to look at such things." Several pamphlets tempted
further study. A much smaller collection of relics had also been
included in Colorado's 1893 exhibit.
All "offensive" concerns aside, the exhibit proved to
be a crowd pleaser, as did Richard Wetherill, who left Mancos in
mid-September to act "as a ruin sharp." In Chicago he first saw the
photographs that William Henry Jackson had recently taken, which the
Mancos Times believed would be good advertising for the Mancos
Valley. After a trip to Niagara Falls, Saratoga, and Brooklyn, Richard
returned home in early November. [20]
The Mesa Verde exhibit in Chicago had been sponsored
by the H. Jay Smith Exploring Company, which had built a similar one the
year before at the Sixth Annual Minneapolis Industrial Exposition. A
Smith Company exploring party had spent six months at Mesa Verde in 1892
to collect relics and take photographs. They also brought an artist into
the field to make sketches for the canvas backgrounds. Their efforts
paid off. As one enthusiastic visitor to the Minneapolis exhibit
proclaimed, "I've about decided to take my next outing in the region of
their ruins. . . . I'd like nothing better than to do a little exploring
on my own hook." [21] Others agreed with him,
and on some days Mesa Verde tourists (the Mancos Times, June 25,
1897, called them "knights of the grip") nearly overcrowded the board
sidewalks of Durango and Mancos.
Tourism's impact on nearby communities thus emerged,
long before there was a park, as one of the recurring themes that would
dominate the story of Mesa Verde. The economic and publicity potential
was not lost on local people. Dominance would bring a tremendous boost
over other urban rivals, an opportunity to overcome the region's
isolation, and perhaps population and business growth. These unexpected
windfalls could not be allowed to slip away without a fight, and each
town's merchants and boosters hastened to see that they would not.
Mancos and Durango stood ready for the onslaught and
boldly vied for the larger share of the business. Durango started out
with several advantages. It was larger (an 1890 census count of 2,726
versus Mancos's 635), offered better hotels and railroad connections,
and had more newspapers. Its greatest asset lay in the fact that almost
all visitors to Mancos had to travel through Durango to get there.
Durango had been promoting tourism almost from the moment of its birth.
The Southwest, back on April 14, 1883, crowed that "Durango is a
great resort for pleasure and recreation generally." Durangoans
considered their Animas Valley ruins to be the best available, as
Frederick Chapin had discovered when he arrived in town in 1889:
It seemed difficult to obtain much information in regard to the now
not far distant Mancos country. In fact, if we had not been well
informed in regard to the literature of the cliff dwellings and ruined
pueblos, we should have been led to turn aside and visit ruins of minor
importance which exist in the lower valley of the Animas [present Aztec
ruins].
Chapin doggedly persisted in his quest and finally
attained the Wetherills' ranch.
Needless to say, Mancos residents resented the nature
of the competition from their larger neighbor, but in the cutthroat,
no-holds-barred, urban world of that era such deviousness was not
without precedent. Durangoans also championed a railroad to the west,
giving as one of the more progressive reasons the tapping of the Mesa
Verde trade ("bound years to come to attract the curious"). The answer
to their prayers was the Rio Grande Southern, constructed in
18901891; the rails started in Durango and reached Mancos in the
spring of 1891, then turned northwest toward Dolores.
Durango promptly proclaimed itself as the
headquarters for visitors going on to tributary Mancos and the cliff
dwellings. Durangoans once again, though, missed the opportunity to buy
a Mesa Verde collection, when the Durango Archaeological and Historical
Society failed in 1893 to raise the needed funds. [22] The crash of 1893, which had already gripped
the community and the state, would last for five years of bitter
depression.
Mancos boomers gave as good as they got and began by
disputing Durango's claim to being the "livest of live towns" in
southwestern Colorado. When the Mancos Times was opened in 1893,
it gave the town a long-needed voice and instantly joined the battle.
Mancos, the editor emphatically insisted on May 12, would attract a
population of 3,000 before "60 days roll around." Durango would awake to
that fact by finding its streets deserted and many business houses
closed. "Mancos will never rival her. She will outstrip her."
Durango's press returned the barbs in kind, the ink
and press paladins giving no quarter and taking no prisoners. The
Mancos Times railed on August 18, "not one single citizen has a
good or kind word to say of their neighbor denizens of the 'Smelter
City' as they are pleased to term their five-cent-beer burg." Mancos
gave more than lip service to the campaign for supremacy. The Hotel
Lemmon offered free bus rides to and from all trains, as well as guides,
animals, bedding, food, and camp equipage to tourists to the Mancos
Cliff Dwellings and the gold mines. Confidence was spurred by more than
just Mesa VerdeMancos was going through a gold excitement that it
hoped would equal that of Cripple Creek, the current mining wonder on
the Colorado and the national scene. There would be no such luck: the
nearby La Plata Mountains promised much, delivered little.
But Mancos did not need to hang its community head in
shame; it held aces in the Mesa Verde game. It was nearer to the cliff
dwellings, and the best trails left from its front door. The renowned
Wetherill clan lived and worked nearby, bringing publicity and fame to
the Mancos Valley. Even so, when Louise Switzgable desired to visit the
ruins, she found no literature or pamphlets available to explain how to
reach the area. She finally wrote the Mancos station master to receive
information; he put her in touch with a guide. Louise ultimately reached
Mancos safely. Departing for Mesa Verde, she found that "quite a crowd
from this little village surrounded our going to see us off." [23]
As the 1890s drew to a close, the Times
prolonged the battle, attacking both Durango and a new threat from the
westCortez. Much more than just visitors to Mesa Verde raised the
ante. Some tourists, the editor believed, would also invest in land,
stock, and businesses, bringing a needed bonus for the Mancos Valley.
Neighboring Cortez attempted to join the fray in 1899, but that town
suffered from a major handicapno railroad connections. Its only
slim hopes for transportation rested with a stage line to link the
village with the railroad at Dolores. Even so, Sterl Thomas promoted his
guide service, good water, and "everything comfortable" for the
fifteen-mile trip to the ruins, "the nearest and most picturesque
route." [24] The youngest, smallest (population
332), and most isolated of the three competitors, Cortez gave no serious
challenge for monopoly of the Mesa Verde business.
In the more bitter Durango-Mancos rivalry, Mancos had
more at stake, since it had only Mesa Verde to distinguish it from a
score of similar southwestern Colorado villages. Al Wetherill remembered
it as a "cow town." With the Wetherills and its nearer location, Mancos
could hold its own for the moment against a larger, more aggressive
rival, but it never came near to reaching the Times's overly
optimistic forecasts.
As these two fought on, the Rio Grande Southern and
its parent company, the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad (D&RG),
promoted. Railroads furnished the fastest, most comfortable means to
reach the ruins, and they provided the only continuing regional and
national promotion. Advertisements and pamphlets boasted of the
"wonderful homes of the cliff dweller," the magnificent scenery, and the
wonders of this great agricultural region and added glowing praises for
Mancos and Durango. All the bombast, of course, profited the railroad
coffers. The D&RG also tied itself to the Wetherills, stressing to
readers that not only the railroad but also the pioneer family would
gladly furnish information and promptly make necessary arrangements. [25] To make the cliff dwellings a popular
attraction, railroad support was essential, and it came readily.
The end result of all this promotion produced more
"knights of the grip"and more vandalism of ruins throughout the
whole area. Americans craved souvenirs to take home; damage, intentional
or not, followed in their wake at the ruins. The accelerating rate of
visitation created fears that soon a priceless heritage would disappear.
Did anyone care about Mesa Verde, or was this to be considered solely as
a matter of business and profit? Was this only a short-term means to the
ultimate end of helping to settle southwestern Colorado?
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