Chapter 11:
The Best of Times, the Worst of Times
THE RECORD NUMBERS OF VISITORS PREDICTED FOR THE
1970s began to arrive as the decade opened. And during 1976, the
bicentennial year of the United States of America, an all-time high of
676,935 people visited the park, where two hundred years did not even
begin to reach back to the point at which the Anasazi era ended. That
surge was followed by a slide, which would not be reversed until 1980. A
previous decline in 19731974 and the one in the late 1970s were
both caused when a threatened gasoline shortage created by the
international oil crisis produced unprecedented higher prices at the
pump. The alarmed public stayed nearer home. Rocky Mountain National
Park suffered the same fate, although it still far outdistanced Mesa
Verde in popularity, topping three million visitors in 1978.
Despite the boom-and-bust aspects of the 1970s,
Colorado benefited mightily from the magnetic attraction that both of
these parks held for the traveling American. As Colorado benefited, so
did other states. Commenting on the impact of the national park system
to local economies, Director George Hartzog noted that $7.8 billion had
been spent by visitors on their way to and in the vicinity of all parks
in 1970. He recommended to his superintendents that they keep that
salient fact in mind, warning them at the same time not to sacrifice
basic park values for short-term tourist gains. Such tactics would
surely "kill the goose that lays the golden eggs." [1] The planning and work that went on at Mesa
Verde in the 1960s had been designed to resolve that dilemma before the
park was forced to pay a fatal price for its growing popularity.
A survey in the 1970s showed that the typical
visitor's experience consisted of a self-guided tour of a cliff
dwelling, "supplemented by a walk through the museum," and an hour and a
half drive along the ruins loop. Self-guided tours had returned to favor
because of the excessive amount of time and the number of rangers
required to run continuous guided tours in all the ruins. The typical
tourists came, saw, and hurried on to another spot. The typical family
spent about six rushed hours in the park from entry to exit.
One innovation to keep crowds and traffic under
control was tried: the distribution of tickets for specified times to
tour Cliff Palace and Balcony House. Spruce Tree House stayed on a
self-guided basis, with rangers always patrolling the ruin to supervise
and to answer questions. Ticketed times alleviated some of the standing
in line and the tiresome waiting and allowed a maximum number of
visitors to explore the sites.
More relief came in 1973, when most of Wetherill Mesa
was finally opened for visitation. Money shortages and an unfavorable
political climate, brought on by the Vietnam War, had kept the project
in limbo for years. Proposals had been "hashed over and over" about what
to do and how to do it with the least possible damage to the fragile
ruins. Uncontrolled visits seemed to be out of the question, and the
government did not have the funds to carry out the ambitious original
plans. When some money finally became available, the road to the mesa
was built. Then came the energy crisis of 1971 and, with it, popular
enthusiasm for conserving gasoline. The Mesa Verde Company capitalized
on those circumstances to purchase a mini-train to transport visitors
around the Wetherill Mesa sites, after a bus had brought the passengers
there from the new Far View complex. [2]
Reviewing those years, Ron Switzer, superintendent in the 1970s,
emphasized that they required "real pioneering." He pointed out that the
mini-trains were the first alternative transportation system in the
National Park Service, "outside of the Mall in Washington." He and his
staff planned stabilization projects, shaded waiting areas, guided
tours, and built shelters over the fragile surfaces of ruins sites and
trails. "I can tell you that hanging paved trails on the edges of the
mesas is quite a difficult engineering feat, but we did it, mostly with
day labor and materials and a couple of very good trail foremen."
Switzer complimented his staff for their efforts: "We had some marvelous
dedicated people on the staff with some rather unique and amazing
skills." [3] Insufficient funds meant it
would be 1987 before all the projects and plans begun during his
administration would come to fruition.
The first visitors toured Long House; later in that
summer of 1973, other sites were opened. Wetherill Mesa and the Far View
Visitor Center were able to take some of the pressure off of Chapin
Mesa. For the first time in the park's history, there was an easily
reachable alternative to the popular attractions of Chapin.
Year after year, the park headquarters were flooded
with "literally hundreds of requests" for information. And they came not
just from Americansforeign visitors showed ever-increasing
interest in the park, too. Those who arrived were given handouts in
German, French, Japanese, and Spanish. These helped the education
program, but by the end of the decade, serious consideration was being
given to hiring seasonal interpreters who spoke one or more of those
languages. Over the years, Mesa Verde had gained a worldwide reputation
that rivaled Yellowstone's among the national parks in the United
States. [4]
The steady upsurge in numbers forced the National
Park Service into planning once more for the future and, to a lesser
degree, into reevaluating the purpose of Mesa Verde. The nonrenewable
Anasazi sites imposed strict limitations on the potential for park
utilization. The use, management, and protection of the park had to be
continuously evaluated as its popularity threatened its existence. A
1979 management plan specified the numbers of visitors that could be
handled without seriously endangering the "unique experience for which
Mesa Verde has been famous."
It was decided that no more than nine hundred
visitors per hour should be allowed through the park entrance in order
to avoid degrading the visitors' experience. To achieve that goal would
require putting a limit on visitors at the peak of the summer season, a
possibility that received some consideration before it was discarded.
The limit on visitors per hour was eventually rescinded.
On crowded summer nights, the new Morefield Campground became
the second largest community in Montezuma County. (Courtesy: William
Winkler)
As alternatives to limiting numbers, the 1979 report
recommended extending the visitor day, scheduling additional guided
tours, and opening more cliff dwellings to the public. All these
modifications would require more staff and more funding, neither of
which the National Park Service could supply. In a reiteration of some
of the ideas that had been discussed but never implemented during
Mission 66, it was recommended that park headquarters be relocated to
the entrance and that some of the permanent staff be moved off the mesa.
To meet the changing interests of the public, it was proposed that the
foot and bike trail system on Chapin Mesa be expanded and that an effort
be made to acquaint visitors with the "numerous recreational and
educational opportunities" available within the park and the surrounding
region. [5]
Those kinds of possibilities within the park were
limited. Unlike Rocky Mountain or Yellowstone, where a variety of
scenery and experiences lay in wait for the adventuresome, most of Mesa
Verde remained off limits to the visitor. As a September 1973 article in
the Los Angeles Times reminded its readers, this was the only
national park in the nation where visitors found themselves not "free to
hike at will through the back country."
Despite the obvious need to expand tours and park
facilities, the bold and intense Ronald Switzer, one of the youngest and
more controversial of the park's superintendents, was restrained by
economic considerations and forced to cut back. "The park was
underfunded," in his opinion, but Switzer pushed ahead with fine-tuning
the park's management system, which included reorganization. "Sometimes
you don't make friends when you do that kind of thing, but it took some
of the unmet needs and responsibilities and put them where they
belonged," the aggressive superintendent admitted. "All in all it was
great adventure and a very serious management challenge." When
evaluating Switzer's administration, several park contemporaries
concluded that "he did a good job." [6]
The rising cost of gasoline and other forms of energy
forced the National Park Service to economize to stay within budgeted
allotments. The first real impact of the crisis came in 19731974,
for the park as well as for the visitor. The cost of gasoline, which
soared to over a dollar a gallon, sliced alarmingly into both the park's
and the travelers' budgets. A casualty of the cutbacks came in the
winter of 19751976all the campgrounds were closed, thereby
ending the era of winter camping in the Chapin Mesa picnic area
(Morefield Campground had never been open in the off-season). A press
release explained that "increasing reductions" of budget and of
personnel ceilings had left the park unable to expend the money on
personnel to maintain winter camping. [7]
The National Park Service adjusted to the changing
times, and so did the Mesa Verde Company. The company rolled strongly
and profitably into the 1970s, featuring its new Far View complex, but
changes were coming in the concessions business throughout the park
system. Bill Winkler, Ansel Hall's son-in-law and now president of the
company, explained why:
The big companies started to come in. There was great thrust for
control among concessionaires. The rules and regulations became almost
worse, and they worked in a way I don't think the National Park Service
even suspected. These big companies, with political powerthey
worked with senators throughout the countrythey could handle the
government. But a private concessionaire individual could not always
deal with the government successfully.
To complicate matters, the new generation of Hall
children "had greener fields to go plow, they didn't want to be park
concessionaires." As Bill expressed it, "there were no replacements
coming up. . . . I felt compelled to get dividends out to the family,
and the National Park Service still needed a couple of million dollars'
worth of development." Some other members of the family, weary of the
expenses and the struggles, favored selling out. Pressure built on the
Winklers to end the Hall generation at Mesa Verde. Bill himself was
reaching the stage of burnout. "I'm convinced you make contributions
until you've given all you can and beyond that there is a flattening of
the growth curve. I guess we had reached that flattening."
After analyzing the possibilities, Bill decided to
sell and started to negotiate with ARA, a Philadelphia-based company.
ARA had purchased the Virginia Skyline Company from a friend of his, and
Winkler liked their established record in Shenandoah National Park.
Following a lengthy process that went all the way to Washington, the
National Park Service approved the sale to ARA, at the same time
expressing some reservations about the demise of the family operation
and the arrival of corporate control. Implications for the future could
not be allowed to deter the required action, and the sale was completed
in 1976, ending nearly forty years of Hall management. [8]
The Mesa Verde Company actually had little choice but
to sell out; the times, government policy, and family and business
considerations weighed heavily against its continuing. Although the
average visitor who came to the park in the spring of 1977 would not
have noticed the change in management, the withdrawal of the Mesa Verde
Company signified the end of an era that went back to the very first
days of the Mesa Verde concessions. The trend toward consolidation and
corporation control, which had been going on in American business for
years, had finally caught up with the park. Without question this change
took the personal factor, the individual touch, out of Mesa Verde, as it
had done at Yellowstone and Rocky Mountain national parks. At Rocky
Mountain, the government purchased private land holdings within the park
in order to remove the buildings and restore the sites to their natural
state.
One change the repeat visitor might have noticed by
mid-decade was that two long-time favorite activities had disappeared.
Since the days of the Wetherills and C. B. Kelly, horseback riding had
been available for those tourists who wanted to examine some of the
outlying ruins. It was no more. First, the horses were removed from the
museum area to the Morefield Campground, where they could be ridden
around a couple of trails, hardly a memorable adventure. When that
contract ran out, the government ended the concession, saying quite
truthfully that it was "more recreational than interpretive." The way
the cancellation was handled shocked some people, including the
Winklers, who had no financial interest in the horseback-riding
concession. Ansel Hall had long ago sold it, realizing it took special
people to run it. "It was a terrible thing. The government just zeroed
in on him [Emmett Koppenhafer] and got him out. I had always heard this
could happen if the government wanted to get rid of you." [9]
The ever-popular Navajo dances ended, too. The
Navajos were not of the Pueblo culture, it was argued, and therefore
their dancing "was not authentic" within the Anasazi tradition. So that
favorite of the evening campfire, which dated back to the 1920s, also
vanished. The campfire talks themselves migrated to the Morefield
Campground, where a new and larger amphitheater awaited them. Finally,
after more than fifty years, the annual planting of a cornfield was
discontinued.
Most of these changes went unnoticed, except by
old-timers. But new visitors were not reluctant to complain about
procedures that irritated them. One family objected to being told that
the narrow roads meant they had to leave their trailer outside the park
and remove their wide-vision mirrors from the side of their car.
Unwilling to tolerate such inconvenience, they left, grumbling all the
while about the silly rules. Safety rules on narrow roads were made to
be ignored by many, who saw them as deterrents to their fun. A father
complained that the ARA Company would not redeem aluminum cans for five
cents, destroying his children's impression that "ecology pays off."
Some of the old familiar complaints resurfaced, as
they always seemed to do seasonally. High pricesseventy cents for
a can of sodaappeared exorbitant to a Massachusetts couple. An
Arizona man became irate when he found several cliff dwellings closed
because of bad weather during April 1977. He complained that he had
received no notice of this and had therefore paid the two-dollar entry
fee without being "able to utilize the park adequately." A charge of
false advertising came to park headquarters from a California man who
had read a sign at the Durango train depot saying that reservations were
needed to stay overnight in the park. He promptly called, only to find
out that they were not; his complaint was that he was out $1.50 in phone
charges. [10] American tourists are
fascinating creatures; some seem never to be satisfied.
Content or complaining, tourists made an economic
impact on nearby communities. Cortez, for the first full decade, basked
in the glory of being a gateway to Mesa Verde; paved highways now
stretched from it in all directions. Its income from tourists had grown,
and jobs had expanded as more tourist-related businesses sprouted. Like
neighboring Durango, however, Cortez found that tourism provided mixed
seasonal blessings.
During the off-season, employment suffered and income
slumped. The tourist-based economy was subject to yearly highs and
lows.
Meanwhile, a subtle change was evolving in Durango's
love affair with Mesa Verde. Where once the park had been the major
attraction, along with the mountain scenery, now the community had a
famous narrow-gauge railroad in its front yard, an expanding ski area in
its back yard, and Lemon and Vallecito reservoirs nearby. Mesa Verde sat
fifty miles from town and had to be shared with a rival. [11] Ever so quietly, promotion shifted toward
the attractions nearer to home, which required no sharing of profits or
publicity. Mesa Verde was never ignoredit just received lower
billing, where once it had been the feature attraction. The shift went
largely unnoticed and followed no preconceived plan by any individual or
group. Good business practice dictated that the newer home-based
attractions be promoted more vigorously. The park would always be there
to draw tourists and contribute its share to the economy without much
advertising on Durango's part.
Amid the changes, Mesa Verde evolved, looking both
toward the past and to the future for guideposts. Over the years, the
number of people employed in the park had steadily increased. In the
bicentennial year there were 39 permanent positions and 122 seasonals,
most of which involved maintenance and interpretation. In honor of the
national celebration, the park installed bicentennial symbols on all the
buildings, flew the official flag, and sponsored programs and films, as
did other parks. Of special interest were the exhibits constructed by
the museum staff to inform visitors of the relationship between the
prehistoric inhabitants and the nation's birth. One of them depicted the
Dominguez-Escalante expedition, which had passed near the area during
some unusually cool and damp August days two hundred years before.
Events so recent as that in relation to Mesa Verde hardly deserved more
than passing mention in what Alfred, Lord Tennyson, called "the eternal
landscape of the past."
Something that emerged in the 1970s and signified a
reawakening of national interest in the country's history was a growing
awareness of the park's history and of its historic structures, as
opposed to the prehistoric culture that had always attracted the lion's
share of attention. Spruce Tree Point came in for special mention, and
Jesse Nusbaum's plans and building efforts earned praise for being
"sensitively and knowledgeably designed" to fit into the "setting and
history without jarring visitors from their communion with the past."
The people who dominated the park story, not just the buildings, merited
scholars' attention. The Wetherills' contributions, especially
Richard's, underwent a historical metamorphosis. Where once the family
had been castigated as "pothunters," now the role of the family in
drawing attention to the ancient culture and its ruins, and their
pioneering efforts to preserve the relics, became subjects of
approbation. The long-overdue recognition was accorded none too soon, in
the opinion of family descendants.
An older park tradition was also revitalized about
this time. Indian weavers, and occasionally potters, who had once
displayed their skills for visitors, now put on "living history"
demonstrations. And, finally, an oral history program to interview
old-timers who had played roles in the Mesa Verde story was planned in
1979 and started the next year. [12]
The Mesa Verde Museum Association, founded in 1930,
took on more projects throughout the 1970s than it ever had before. It
published pamphlets and books, both in the historical and prehistorical
fields, and donated money to the park to purchase interpretive items not
available through regular government channels. The library continued to
expand its book holdings within the limits that its budget allowed, thus
enhancing the research opportunities for scholars.
Every improvement held the potential for enriching
the visitors' experience, an ever so important criterion. A 1979 study
emphasized that Mesa Verde relied on effective interpretation, "perhaps
more than any other national park." The best way for people of today to
acquire empathy for the Anasazi was to spend time at the ruins and in
the park, the report concluded. The park, created to preserve
antiquities, now offered a broader opportunity to savor the land, the
environment, and the remains. Through matured interpretation, a deeper
appreciation of Anasazi life could be acquired. To Mesa Verde's
detriment, heavy tourist pressure, travelers' time limitations, the
fragile nature of the dwellings, and their restricted capacity precluded
most opportunities for in-depth personal exploration. The inevitable
shallow exposure called for "effective interpretation" to fill the gap.
As the popular and perceptive ranger Don Watson had written, the ruins
were the "least important part. Cliff Palace is really built of the
hopes and desires, the joys and sorrows of an industrious people. It is
not a cold empty city, for it is still warm with the emotion of its
builders." [13] To make these Anasazi and
their culture come alive had always been a challenge to and a goal of
the National Park Service. Each decade, with its new interpretive
resources, and each archaeological dig, with its new discoveries, helped
bring this goal a little nearer to realization.
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Kelly's cabin was a memory for only a
few old-timers by the 1970s. Compared to the cabin, this Denver-area
family's campsite in Morefield Campground could be described as
luxurious. (Courtesy: Mesa Verde National Park)
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One of the most popular methods of achieving
educational enlightenment continued to be that long-time favorite, the
campfire program, which was held nightly from late May into September.
Popularity and tradition did not mean stagnation, and new ideas
constantly enhanced the presentations. For instance, the twenty-two
thousand people, give or take a few, who witnessed the programs in 1976
were surrounded by taped music and sounds that accompanied the slide
shows.
Interpretation never came easily, explained Gil
Wenger, who worked with the interpretive services throughout the decade.
First, personnel had to be selected who were knowledgeable interpreters
and enthusiastic speakers; fortunately, he said, "we had more real good
ones than we had bad." Developing "good interpretive literature" took
special skills and a feel for the nature of the park and the public.
During the complex daily routine, rangers moved from one site to another
to spell each other and to goal sometimes difficult to achieve with the
"poorly operating GSA cars from the Farmington motor pool." Another
unexpected problem surfaced: "Some of these [vehicles] were so old they
still had clutches in them and we had to train young adults how to drive
with clutches."
Gil Wenger enjoyed everything about the park, even
the tribulations that went along with the job. "I believed in my job of
serving the public," he reminisced, and in the long-established
tradition of Mesa Verde, he put in many hours of unpaid overtime.
Working with youngsters especially delighted Wenger; like others before
him, he went to schools, "both near and far," to relate the story of the
park and its people. [14] Jesse Nusbaum
would have empathized when Wenger commented that he often "caught heck
for being out with them [the public] instead of pushing paper."
The discerning public took pleasure in the
improvements that were being made, though they were largely unaware of
the arduous efforts that went into them. Pageantry in the grand
tradition of Virginia McClurg and Aileen Nusbaum had commanded instant
attention and appreciation. Wenger and his interpretive staff put about
three hundred luminarias (candles in paper sacks) in Cliff Palace
to illuminate the ruin one evening in August 1979 while some of the
Navajo staff chanted tribal songs. This lovely innovation gained instant
popularity and was repeated for several years, into the 1980s.
The staff also worked with the Ute Mountain Utes to
train them in ruins stabilization and to help them to develop an
interpretive program for their tribal park directly south of Mesa Verde.
Not all the significant ruins fell within the park's boundaries, and the
Utes moved determinedly to preserve theirs, as well as to tap the
potential tourist trade. Their isolated reservation stood in need of an
economic boost. Although the Ute education program was the most
extensive, the Zunis, Crows, and Apaches also came to observe and to
receive training. The heritage of Mesa Verde was being passed on to
future generations.
While that positive tradition was being furthered,
the past was also willing its never-ending road problems to the present.
Superintendent Switzer reported during a June 1973 staff meeting that
slides plagued the roads and trails. Continual road patching made it
seem that as soon as "one section is repaired, another breaks up." The
expense and frustration of the one-sided struggle seldom abated, always
appearing on the superintendent's agenda. To make matters worse that
same year, the new Wetherill Mesa road began to "cause some problems."
[15] There appeared to be no end and no
solution to road difficulties.
All these nagging nuisances proved to be mere
preliminaries to the main event. After an excessively wet fall in 1978,
two slides, on April 27 and 29, 1979, buried the road on the east side
of Point Lookout and closed the park for a month. The second slide,
termed "massive," deposited an estimated 150,000 cubic yards of rock and
mud. The disaster ignited an equally massive effort to remove the debris
and, if possible, to stabilize the road permanently. The staff promptly
fired up its public relations machine by several degrees and attempted
to blunt the adverse publicity. Daily reports about road conditions were
issued to press, television, and radio, and all three major television
networks taped feature stories at the site. Park rangers met visitors
below the slide and "satisfied many frustrated persons who could not
enter the park with pleasant discussions and sympathetic responses." An
apprehensive local tourist industry fretted and stewed, predicting
losses up to a million dollars. The last days of Switzer's
superintendency were troubled by controversy generated by the slide.
Any delight in the Mesa Verde disaster came from the
school children of park families, who were convinced that they would not
be able to connect with the Mancos school bus. The park school had
finally closed over a decade before, with all grades now being bused.
The children's joy proved short-lived, as foot trails were constructed
around the slide to allow them to meet their transportation to and from
school. After an expenditure of $736,500 for repairs, the road and the
park were finally reopened to the public on May 30, 1979. [16] The cost over the years to stabilize the
shifting Mancos shale and the continuing expense of maintaining that
stretch of road far exceeded the money spent on the entire Wetherill
Mesa Project, far and away the park's most elaborate archaeological
endeavor.
Fires, too, continued to harass Mesa Verde, as they
had for years. The average number from 1926 through 1979 had been ten a
year; the thirty fires in 1972 set a record. Included in that number
were a 2,680-acre burn on Moccasin Mesa and a 700-acre blaze on
Wetherill Mesa. The "unique flammability of Mesa Verde pinyon-juniper
forests" always posed a threat to the park and its visitors. When the
mesa became dangerously dry, campfires and smoking were prohibited. [17] Fire fighting equipment, including a
helicopter, and trained staff stood ready for the call they hoped would
not come.
As if slipping roads and rampaging fires were not
discouraging enough, air borne pollution also threatened Mesa Verde.
This plague posed two threats: a smoky haze that despoiled the once
pristine vistas, always one of the park's greatest charms, and the
potential erosion of the ancient structures by the acids in the
pollution. By 1979, the park was involved in several programs to monitor
air quality and visibility. [18] The great
threat came not from within the park, but from the coal-fired Four
Corners and San Juan power plants.
Smoke from these plants created a haze over the once
strikingly clear view to the south toward Shiprock. To a lesser degree,
pollution came from coal-, wood, and oil-burning stoves and fireplaces;
use of cars also contributed to the problem.
Once it had seemed less threatening to build giant
power plants in lightly populated areas, where industrial smoke,
settling over fewer voters, would not become so politically volatile an
issue. Likewise, as Americans tried to save on heating bills, they
reverted to some of the more primitive heating methods of their
pioneering forebears. Unintentionally, in both cases, they polluted the
Four Corners atmosphere, threatening their environmental heritage there
and elsewhere throughout the country. Such was the cost of modern life
on Mesa Verde.
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