Chapter 6
The Parks as They Ought to Be
Nothing turns upon whether visitors are hiking or
riding, young or old, staying in a hotel or sleeping in a tent. The
hotly contested question of vehicle use in the parks, for example, is
not an issue of transportation, but of pace. Intensity of concentration
on the natural scene and attentiveness to detail are simply less likely
to occur at forty miles an hour. For this reason it is
appropriate to discourage motorized travel. Such a policy would not
militate against all road building in reserved parklands. We need
reasonable access to the various areas of very large parks. And because
reserved lands should affirmatively be made enticing to as wide a
spectrum of the public as possible, including newcomers who need a taste
of the opportunities the land offers, in makes sense to haveas we
do in many parksa highway designed to provide an introduction for
those who are deciding whether they want to come back for more.
The purpose of reserving natural areas, however, is
not to keep people in their cars, but to lure them out; to encourage a
close look at the infinite detail and variety that the natural scene
provides; to expose, rather than to insulate, so that the peculiar
character of the desert, or the alpine forest, can be distinctively
felt; to rid the visitor of his car, as the fisherman rids himself of
tools.
The novice, the elderly, and the infirm, as well as
the experienced backcountry user, can all be embraced within the same
policy. Those who have little vigor or impaired capacity may be limited
to a smaller area or to less grueling terrain, but there is an abundance
of experience to be had within easy reach in any complex natural
ecosystem for those who are willing to trade intensiveness for
extensiveness of experience. Indeed, the more immediately nature is met,
the less total land that is required.
The concern that has been expressed for the elderly
and the infirm in debate over parkland developments must be taken with a
measure of skepticism. People who were active when they were young
ordinarily continue to be as active as they can when they get older, and
those who are reluctant to leave their cars range widely across age
groups. Neither the elderly nor the infirm, if they were active an other
times, are in the forefront of those advocating intense development of
parklands. Rather, those who urge development have put the elderly and
the handicapped on their front line. I have myself climbed in Montana
with a fifty-seven-year-old totally blind man, who was
continuingto the best of his abilityto pursue the kind of
activity he enjoyed before his injury. And I have walked down and back
up the Grand Canyon with a husband and wife in their late sixties, who
at a slower pace were repeating adventures they had previously
savored.
Management committed to contemplative recreation
should be just that, whether for the young and hardy or the old and
infirm. One does not provide such an opportunity for older people or
inexperienced visitors by building a highway to the top of a mountain.
Rather we can assure that places that are accessible to them are
not so deprived of their natural qualities as to put such an experience
beyond their reach. If it were necessary to go into the rugged
backcountry before finding a relatively undisturbed ecosystem, the
lesson would be that we had too ruthlessly developed the more accessible
places, not that still more places should be deprived of their
complexity.
Converting such ideas into specific management
practices is often a subtle task where tone and suggestion are the
critical factors. Fixed boardwalks in very fragile and accessible areas,
such as the Everglades's Anhinga Trail, may be the only option
practically available. Even where some guidance is needed, it can be
provided with imagination and subtlety, rather than being reduced to
drearily fixed tours, with visitors taken in lockstep from place to
place at a predetermined pace. The National Audubon Society's Corkscrew
Swamp Sanctuary in Florida shows what can be done. Though the physical
nature of the swamp requires the presence of established walkways,
visitors guide themselves through the sanctuary. Interpreters are
stationed at various significant places within, available to help the
unsophisticated visitor see things he might otherwise miss, but they are
never intrusive and they do not determine the pace or the quality of the
experience. Everglades National Park has a similar arrangement.
A motorized nature-road loop in a park like Great
Smoky Mountains, on the other hand, is a dubious facility. The Roaring
Fork Motor Nature Trail in the Smokies, set an the edge of the park
nearest the tourist town of Gatlinburg, serves as a magnet for precisely
those casual visitors who could be invited to penetrate the park on
foot. Yet it serves just the opposite function, offering a vista with a
fixed beginning and end and implicitly encouraging the visitor to remain
in his car, rather than inviting him to see the Smokies at a reduced
pace and at close range.
Perhaps the Park Service sees such places as
desirable diversions, isolating the casual visitor who simply wants to
say he has been in the Smokies without intruding on others or
threatening the park's natural resources. If so, it is a step in the
wrong direction, for the inexperienced, urbanized visitor is precisely
the one who needs the most attention and on whom the most imagination
needs no be expended. Magnet facilities are required for them, but a
better attraction would be a short access road leading to a variety of
trails which should, where possible, be of indefinite length, with
opportunities to cut back an various points, in response to the
visitor's own inclinations, but without suggesting that the walk has
come to a decisive end. Even the least active visitor could be
accommodated by such a system. If even this incentive does not work,
then, and only thenbut at that point decisivelythe Park
Service should tell the guest that he has come to the wrong place.
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is an
important resting ground because it is one of the most visited
facilities in the system, is close to populous eastern and midwestern
population centers, and is subjected to strong pressures for
urbanization. In general, it has been admirably managed. The vast bulk
of the park has been retained without development and the Park Service
has spent considerable effort in closing old roads and resisting demands
for new ones.
The Smokies also provide an instructive example for
the problem of lodging. There is no hotel in the park accessible by
automobile, yet there is a facility for those who are not prepared to
camp in tents. The Mount LeConte Lodge, deep in the center of the park,
is a simple group of cabins with a dining facility and lounge
room/office nearby. No roads reach the lodge; provisions are packed in
by horse, and visitors walk in by several different trails, each about
seven miles from the nearest parking lot. The walk has moderate rises in
elevation, but is easily accessible in less than a day by even the most
casual hiker. The lodge is frequented by many families with small
children and by a good many people well beyond youthful exuberance. Its
accommodations are limited to about forty visitors, and in provides no
amusements. There is nothing to do when one gets to Mount LeConte except
what the visitor finds for himself. The Lodge is an invitation to find
out what the park offers, accommodating the relatively inexperienced
visitor without lapsing into the familiarity of the conventional resort.
While the Park Service has had its problems with the concessioner at
Mount LeConteand has wanted to close the lodgethat facility
embodies a concept of affirmative service to the less experienced
visitor that the parks should not reject.
Happily, the lodge has not expanded to accommodate
all the visitors it could draw, and in that respect in illustrates an
important point: Crowds diminish the opportunity for visitors to set
their own pace. In may be said that millions of people want to visit
these places, and that no one should be denied the opportunity. True
enough. Yet it is impossible to provide unlimited visitation and the
essential qualities of an unconventional, non-urban experience
simultaneously. Here too a compromise is called for: a willingness to
trade quantity for quality of experience. There is nothing undemocratic
or even unusual in such a trade. The notion that commitment to
democratic principles compels the assumption of unlimited abundance and
a rejection of the possibility of scarcity is one of the familiar
misconceptions of our time. We need a willingness to value a certain
kind of experience highly enough that we are prepared to have fewer
opportunities for access in exchange for a different sort of experience
when we do get access. We already ration backcountry permits in the
national parks in order to avoid crowds in the wilderness, and we even
ration overnight access to such unremote places as the Point Reyes
National Seashore near San Francisco, or the Año Nuevo California
State Park where the elephant seals visit to breed during their annual
migration. The private Huntington Library near Pasadena, California, now
limits by reservation the number of visitors who can enter its splendid
and tranquil gardens on Sundays, thus maintaining the quality of the
visit at the expense of numbers. Some states ration big game hunting
permits, for which individuals may wait a number of years in order to
enjoy one remarkable hunting experience. Indeed, the experience may be
more highly valued because of this. The visitor's sense of anticipation
is heightened, and entry to the place made more dramatic by "rationing."
In all these devices there is equality in the right of access, but a
reduction in the total quantum of access in order to exalt quality over
quantity of experience.
The challenge of providing an unconventional
experience is greatest in those areas where the growth of the national
park system has itself been greatest in recent yearsat the island
and shoreline parks established as national seashores and lakeshores and
at the urban parks created within major cities. These places present a
number of special problems. They are not, like the early western parks,
vast regions of undisturbed wilderness. New York's Fire Island, for
example, encompasses existing vacation communities with homes and stores
and a building boom in ins midst. Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore is
literally in the shadow of the belching Gary steel industry and has to
cope with a nuclear power plant being built at its border. The Gateway
parks in New York and San Francisco are within bustling cities. The
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Michigan consists of a series
of unjoined pieces held together by a long-standing vacation home
community. In general these places have had to be carved out around
private developments, preventing the isolation that has traditionally
allowed parks to create their own ambience.
The risk is that these places will simply become
appendages to the communities where they have been created; that
homeowners will see the parks as enlarged backyards, or as extensions of
city parks, distinguished only by the fact that the federal government
finances their management. The newer park areas are already viewed by
many area residents as unwelcome intruders, suppressing a hoped-for
bonanza in real estate values.
New urban area parks cannot feed on the traditional
symbolism of wilderness, but they have a rightful contemporary place in
the national parks system, for even with the advantages of modern
transportation and affluence a great many people will never likely visit
remote jewels like Glacier National Park or the Gates of the Arctic in
Alaska, or even Yellowstone and the Everglades. The growth of the
national park system is justified by a recognition that the symbolism of
parks needs to be brought closer to the public, not that the symbol
should be urbanized.
The urban-region park provides an ideal opportunity
to show city dwellers that the psychology of the spoiled child is not
the only choice open to us; that we can draw satisfaction by
accommodating to natural forces as well as by harnessing them. By
refraining from driving roads into every corner of every park, as the
Congress recently did at Assateague Island National Seashore, [1] even a small acreage can be made capacious.
Places become much bigger when we are on foot, and a slower pace
enlarges the material on which to expend our leisure.
By having some places where structures are not built
along fragile ocean shorelines, we provide ourselves with an object
lesson in the economies of accommodating to the forces of
natureand we can see, by contrast, the cost when we close our eyes
to these matters. Early planning for Gateway National Recreation Area in
New York's Jamaica Bay was built upon a recognition that park visitors
live in an irrevocably man-made environment most of the time. Thus it
set as an objective to
forge an effective link between the urban values
systems that characterize communities in New York and New Jersey and the
natural systems of Gateway. . . [to] dramatize for the public the gains
which can accrue if swimming and shellfishing are enlarged . . . and use
Jamaica Bay as proof that modern man can work with nature and reclaim
what has been impaired. [2]
The Gateway plan also called for energy supplies and
new techniques of resource recovery in the management of the
parkthe latest solar, wind, and waste systemsthat would
provide "a working exhibit and testing ground of efforts of man to live
in harmony with nature." [3] By illustrating
the energy efficiency of natural systems, and employing energy efficient
innovations in its own management and transportation regimes, the urban
parks can show that a national park is neither a place to which one
escapes from the reality of the world, nor a place to which one brings
its conventions, but a unique facility with important ideas and
experiences germane to our everyday lives. [4]
Most important of all, the new, closer-to-home parks
provide an opportunity to show the urbanite what it means to be without
what Olmsted called distractions. Though Olmsted's Central Park of the
185Os was not a natural wilderness (indeed it was extensively and
cunningly landscaped), it was to be a place without amusements and
hawkers to amuse the masses. Olmsted's goal at Central Park lamentably
later betrayed in many instanceswas to put the New Yorker into a
setting designed to stimulate his imagination, and then leave him alone
so that his own inclinations and thoughts could take over. With the new
facilities of the national park system in New York and San Francisco,
Cleveland and Los Angeles, and a number of other places accessible to
the great majority of the public, rich and poor, we have a second chance
to realize Olmsted's vision.
Setting one's own agenda is one of the most
difficult ideas to convert into a set of administrative directions. Yet
many of the values articulated earlier, such as freedom from
conventional expectations, developing a distinctive personal style,
coming to terms with inclinations toward domination and submissiveness,
and reaching for the possibilities of boundless involvement, ultimately
depend upon setting one's own agenda.
At the simplest level, this means avoiding
conditioned responses that get in the way of freshness of experience.
Again, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park provides a useful
example. At one time areas along the roadways were carefully cut and
trimmed, creating a lawnlike appearance. When a new superintendent was
appointed, he ordered this practice stopped, which engendered a good
deal of complaint from visitors. The roadsides had been so attractive,
they said, so neat, and now they had a rough and ungainly appearance. On
this small but significant point the superintendent was adamant,
however, and for exactly the right reason. Visitors to the park were
reacting to a conventional, familiar, and deeply ingrained image of
beautythe trimmed and landscaped lawn. The goal should not be to
stimulate that familiar response, but to confront the visitor with the
less familiar setting of an unmanaged natural landscape. [5] The mild shock of a scene to which there is
no patterned response, and the engendering of an untutored personal
response, is precisely what national park management should seek, even
in such seemingly small details.
Exactly the same point might be made about wildlife.
Those who came to certain parks loved the housepet quality of the bears
who came down nightly to feed at garbage pits that were provided for
them in full view of park visitors. This was the familiar Hollywood
version of the wild animal, a picture which virtually all of us carry
around in our heads. We like it and we respond conventionally to
itthe cuteness, the docility, the anthropomorphism of the
housepet. [6] But the parks can put the
visitor in contact with quite another version: the animal in his own
habitat, behaving quite without regard to any predetermined notion of
how we would like him to behave, sometimes threatening, almost always
elusive, at times quite annoying. When we have to react to park animals
in this setting, we are on the way to making our own agenda.
These are simple and obvious examples. The agenda
issue has its subtle side as well. In one respect it is certainly true
that no one requires the visitor to spend his time in any particular
way. There is no social director, as at a resort or on a cruise ship,
pulling guests by the arm to do this or that. Nor is there an obtrusive
program imprinted on the landscape as at a Disneyland, a completely
self-enclosed world where the management affirmatively sets the
agendamoving us along cleverly designed paths from ride to ride
and restaurant to gift shop, stimulated by upbeat music and bright
colors; the clean and happy world of Wild-West saloons and smiling
plastic alligators.
For the park visitor who is able, and who knows what
he is looking for, there are no such constraints. He can go off and find
what he wants in the outer reaches of the place. But for a great many
visitorsfor a considerable majority, I have concluded from
frequent observationthe agenda question is very much less settled.
They come to the famous national parks because it is widely believed
that these are among the very special places in the world, in the sense
that the major cities or the great European cathedrals are places well
worth a voyage. There is a sense that something special is to be found
here beyond the routine of daily amusement, something with the power to
enlarge, to stimulate, to capture the imagination.
So we come. And the experience is initially stunning.
Like walking for the first time into Notre Dame or the Sainte Chapelle
of Paris, there is a sensory shock in seeing the redwoods, the Grand
Tetons, or Mount Rainier that dazzles all but the deadest souls. Yet the
initial experience is not long sustained when it is nothing more than
amazement at a stupendous visual prospect. I recall a young man working
as a waiter at the El Tovar Hotel in Grand Canyon National Park. After
six weeks he was getting ready to leave. "How long can you keep looking
into that hole?" he asked. "There isn't anything to do here."
It is at this point that subtle, but vital, questions
in administration arise. There is every reason for a park to have hotel
facilities for those who do not wish to camp in tents, though Mount
LeConte Lodge is a better model than Yosemite's Ahwanee, with its
conventions, stuffy elegance, and souvenir shop selling pinecones in
cellophane bags. Nor is there any reason to abolish campgrounds suitable
for those who do not wish to pay, or cannot afford, nightly hotel
prices. Neither need we root out high country camps or trail shelters,
where these serve an interpretive function or give protection from
particularly heavy weather (though such facilities have a tendency to
become garbage dumps and gathering spots for spirituous as well as
spirited socializing). Supportive servicessupply stores,
unpretentious restaurants associated with hotels, and gas stations in
more remote parksare also perfectly appropriate. What do not
belong in such places are facilities that are attractions in themselves,
lures that have nothing to do with facilitating an experience of the
natural resources around which the area has been established.
For example, the Jackson Lake Lodge in Grand Teton
National Park is a lovely resort hotel, but it disserves the sort of
opportunities the park ought to be stimulating. It is an attraction in
itself, with its fancy shops, swimming pool, and elegant restaurant.
Obviously one need not stay around the hotel using it as the centerpiece
of a visit, but to the extent it attracts visitors, it discourages
setting one's own agenda within the park's natural resources. Such
overdeveloped facilities are unnecessary. We can go to resort hotels
elsewhere. If we come to experience the Tetons we should be willing to
recognize we are in a distinctive place offering an unfamiliar
experience we must search out for ourselves. This is not to suggest that
such places do not have their virtues. The new, highly developed balcon
resorts in the French Alps, for example, are in many ways highly
attractive places at which to be instructed in mountain skiing. As one
observer noted, "things are superbly organized. The lifts are close by,
the slopes well groomed, ski classes are held on schedule. The balcon
resorts are great, efficiently organized machines." [7] No doubt that could be taken as a compliment
but it is hardly the ideal metaphor for a national park.
This, of course, is a matter of setting a tone for a
place, but creating the appropriate tone is very much at the heart of
the matter. The problem is not hypothetical, as even the most casual
observer will notice. In the midst of a recent summer season, Jackson
Lake Lodge was largely given over to a business convention. Hundreds of
people, dressed in resort style, were continually flitting in and around
the hotel lobby, going from meetings to shops to restaurants and bars.
Doubtless a number of them carried away from their visit a heightened
interest in the park's magnificent resources, but certainly they would
have done so no less if other amusements and attractions were removed.
Undoubtedly some would never have come to the park except for the
convention, and the convention might not have gone to the Tetons in the
absence of a package of resortlike facilities. But this is just another
version of the bundling problem. If a place like the Tetons cannot
attract someone based on its own resources, then that visitor may not be
ready for an encounter with nature. Like the museum or the university,
the park can wait for patronage until the aspirational urge is in the
ascendancy. No doubt some people will miss an opportunity to which they
would have responded if only they could be lured inside by other means,
but to achieve this purpose requires a blurring of mission thatfor
the reasons set out earlieris best served by keeping different
management goals as distinct as is practically possible.
The other major problem of this kind has to do with
the concessioner who offers boat and horse and bus rides, and the like.
In theory, there is certainly nothing wrong with such activities. One
ought, for example, to be able to rent a horse or a boat in a park. Yet
frequently the commercial imperatives of a concessioner reshape these
services in a way inconsistent with the demands of management for
self-defined recreation. One must rely upon impressionistic evidence,
and my strong impression is that a great deal of the activities of
concessions on the public lands are designed precisely to fill a void
for the visitor who has come expecting to be entertained. For that
reason they cut against a policy calculated to force the agenda question
back upon the visitor.
Certainly there is a banality and predictability
about many of these functions that has little to commend it. The
drearily routine mule rides at the South Rim of Grand Canyon for which
people line up morning after morning; the one-hour, two-hour, four-hour,
horseback loops, with a daily breakfast ride or "chuck wagon dinner"
thrown in, that are so common a sight; the round-the-lake commercial
boat ride that is a standard feature at a number of parks. All these are
nothing but amusements, however beautiful the setting, and they seem
indistinguishable from the local pony ride. Their capacity to get
visitors deep into the park experience seems minimal, they have a mass
production quality about them, and they have a considerable capacity to
detract attention from the fashioning of a personal agenda. They can be
dispensed with.
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